TREES AS 


■ OOD CITIZENS 


CHARLES LATHROP PACK 







9 

* 






/ 








































■ 









































V 




































































0 








s 





’ 

. 


mm c 















. 


Safe 




MAGNOLIA IN SPRING 






TREES AS GOOD 
CITIZENS 


« 


BY 


CHARLES LATHROP PACK 

PRESIDENT OP THE AMERICAN TREE ASSOCIATION 

AUTHOR OF 

THE SCHOOL BOOK OF FORESTRY,” “THE WAR GARDEN VICTORIOUS,” 
“ MEMORIAL TREES,” “THE FOREST POETIC,” ETC. ETC. 



) 

i '■ 

> > 


PRICE, $2.00 


PUBLISHED BY 

THE AMERICAN TREE ASSOCIATION 

1214 SIXTEENTH STREET, WASHINGTON, D. C. 

PRINTED BY J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY 
PHILADELPHIA, PA. 



COPYRIGHT 1922, BY CHARLES LATHROP PACK 


First Printing, November, 1922 
Second Printing, December, 1922 



PRINTED BY J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY 
AT THE WASHINGTON SQUARE PRESS 
PHILADELPHIA, U. S. A. 





JAN -5 '23 

* 


C1A692749 

fpU> % t 


DEDICATED TO EVERY MAN, WOMAN 
AND CHILD WHO PLANTS A TREE 



The author acknowledges with gratitude the assistance derived from the writings 
or from consultations with the following:— 

F. L. Mulford, Horticulturist, U. S. Dept, of Agriculture; 

H. R. Francis, Professor of Forest Recreation, Syracuse University; 

Samuel N. Baxter, Arboriculturist, Fairmount Park Commission, Phila., Pa.; 
Alfred Gaskill, Former State Forester of New Jersey; 

J. Franklin Collins, Forest Pathologist, U. S. Dept, of Agriculture; 

W. W. Colton, Former City Tree Expert of Newton, Mass.; 

C. A. Reed, Nut Culturist, U. S. Dept, of Agriculture; 

Nelson M. Wells, of the F. L. Olmstead Co., Landscape Architects, Brookline, 
Mass.; 

E. P. Felt, State Entomologist, Albany, N. Y.; 

Carl Bannwart, Newark, N. J. Shade Tree Commission; 

Bernard E. Fernow, Former Dean of Forestry, University of Toronto; 

Lt. Col. C. O. Sherrill, U. S. Public Buildings and Grounds, Washington, D. C.; 
Norman C. McLoud, of the National War Garden Commission; 

Joseph S. Illick, Penna. State Department of Forestry; 

Charles C. Deam, State Forester of Indiana; 

Charles Sprague Sargent, Author of “Manual of the Trees of North America.;” 
Arthur Newton Pack, Author of “Our Vanishing Forests”; 

Filibert Roth, Dean of Forestry, University of Michigan, Ann Arbor, Mich.; 

J. J. Levinson, Former Forester Prospect Park, Brooklyn, N. Y.; 

Mrs. N. Brenizer, Artist of the U. S. Forest Service; 

Prof. Nelson C. Brown, Professor of Forest Utilization, Syracuse University; 
Col. W. B. Greeley, U. S. Forester; 

Col. Henry S. Graves, Former U. S. Forester; 

Francis D. Gallatin, Park Commission, New York City; 

C. P. Close, Horticulturist, U. S. Dept, of Agriculture; 

Luther Burbank, and others. 

The author also secured valuable information and illustrations from the following 
publications: 

“Insects Affecting Park and Woodland Trees, New York State Museum Memoir 
No. 8 ”; 

“U. S. Farmers Bulletin No. 1209 Planting and Care of Shade Trees”; 

“U. S. Farmers Bulletin No. 1208 Trees for Town and City Streets”; 

“Bulletin No. 170 Massachusetts Agricultural Experiment Station on Shade 
Trees.” 

















* 
















CONTENTS 


CHAPTER PAGE 

I. Trees as Good Citizens. 17 

II. Trees Crown the Home. 23 

III. Howto Identify Shade Trees. 27 

IV. Selection of Trees for Planting. 41 

V. The Placing of Shade Trees. 68 

VI. Shade Tree Planting. 76 

VII. Roadside Planting of Trees. 90 

VIII. Nut Trees for Roadside Planting. 96 

IX. Memorial Trees. 108 

X. Roads of Remembrance. 115 

XI. The Hall of Fame for Trees. 120 

XII. Labelling Shade Trees. 127 

XIII. Caring for Shade Trees. 131 

XIV. Pruning Shade Trees. 138 

XV. Injuries to Shade Trees. 149 

XVI. Repair of Shade Trees. 156 

XVII. Damage to Trees by Gases. 166 

XVIII. Tree Diseases and their Treatment. 172 

XIX. Tree Insects and their Control. 183 

XX. Municipal Control of Shade Trees. 223 

XXI. Legal Value of Shade Trees. 231 

XXII. Shade Trees and the Law. 240 

Arbor Days. 248 

Index. 249 




























ILLUSTRATIONS 


PAGE 

Magnolia in Spring. Frontispiece 

White Oak leaves and acorn. 29 

Red Oak leaves and acorn. 29 

Pin Oak leaves and acorn. 29 

Bur Oak leaves and acorn. 29 

Scarlet Oak leaves and acorn. 29 

Willow Oak leaves and acorn. 31 

Laurel Oak leaves and acorn. 31 

Live Oak leaves and acorn. 31 

Valley Oak leaves and acorn. 31 

California Live Oak leaves and acorn. 31 

Carolina Poplar leaves. 33 

Lombardy Poplar leaves. 33 

White Ash leaves. 33 

Green Ash leaves. 33 

Sugar Maple leaves. 35 

Red Maple leaves.:. 35 

Norway Maple leaves. 35 

Silver Maple leaves. 35 

Big-Leaf Maple leaves’. 35 

Ash-Leaved Maple leaves. 35 

Oriental Plane leaves. 37 

London Plane leaves. 37 

California Sycamore leaves. 37 

Sycamore leaves. 37 

American Elm leaves. 39 

English Elm leaves. 39 

Huntington Elm leaves. 39 

Ginkgo leaves. 39 

Basswood leaves. 39 

European Linden leaves. 39 

Red Oak Tree. 45 

Pin Oak Tree. 4^ 

Scarlet Oak Tree. 47 

White Oak Tree. 47 





































ILLUSTRATIONS 

PAGE 

Live Oak Tree. 47 

Willow Oak Tree. 48 

Laurel Oak Tree. 48 

Valley Oak Tree. 49 

California Live Oak Tree. 49 

Bur Oak Tree. 49 

American Elm Tree. 50 

English Elm Tree. 51 

Huntington Elm Tree. 51 

Ginkgo Tree. 51 

Basswood Tree. 52 

European Linden Tree. 53 

Sycamore Tree. 54 

London Plane Tree. 54 

Oriental Plane Tree. 55 

California Sycamore Tree. 55 

Tulip Poplar Tree. 56 

Sweet Gum Tree. 56 

White Ash Tree. 57 

Green Ash Tree. 57 

Magnolia Tree. 58 

Norway Maple Tree. 59 

Red Maple Tree. 59 

Sugar Maple Tree. 60 

Big-Leaf Maple Tree.„. 61 

Silver Maple Tree. 61 

Ash-Leaved Maple Tree. 62 

Lombardy Poplar Tree. 62 

Carolina Poplar Tree. 63 

Mountain Ash Tree. 64 

Horse Chestnut Tree. 65 

Hackberry Tree. 66 

Ailanthus Tree. 66 

Honey Locust Tree. 67 

Diacram of tree planting. 69 

Growing trees on busy thoroughfares. 69 

Instructions in tree planting. 80 

Map of tree-planting areas. 85 

Trees for planting in classified areas. 87 









































ILLUSTRATIONS 

PAGE 

HOW TO PLANT ROADSIDE TREES . 94 

Hickory leaves and nut. 98 

Pecan leaves and nut. 98 

Walnut leaves and nut. 98 

Chestnut leaves and flowers. 98 

Beech leaves and nut. 98 

Pecan Tree. 102 

Walnut Tree. 103 

Butternut Tree. 105 

Hickory Tree. 105 

Beech Tree. 106 

Chestnut Tree. 106 

Tree marker used in Washington, D. C . 129 

Types of tree guards. 135 

Proper method of pruning trees. 143 

Improper method of pruning trees. 144 

Proper healing of wound in a tree. 153 

Proper and improper tree surgery. 157 

How TO ATTACH EYEBOLT AND STRANDED WIRE. 158 

Method of attaching eyebolt and stranded wire. 159 

Improper method of chaining a tree. 160 

How A CAVITY IS CAUSED AND HOW TO TREAT IT. 162 

























COLOR PLATES 


Magnolia in Spring. Frontispiece 

FOLLOWING 

PAGE 

Elms and Maples in Summer. 18 

White Oak in Autumn. 20 

Beech in Winter. 24 


Leaves of White Elm, Red Spruce, Beech, White Ash, Red Maple, Tamar¬ 


ack, White Pine. 40 

Leaves of Tulip Poplar, Sweet Gum, Scarlet Oak, Basswood, White Cedar, 

Flowering Dogwood, Shagbark Hickory. 40 

Leaves of Aspen, Yellow Birch, White Willow, White Oak, Balsam Fir ... 40 

Leaves of Hard Maple, White Maple. 40 

Leaves of Red Oak, Chestnut. 40 

Aphids or Plant Lice. 172 

Maple and Other Scale Insects. 174 

Maple Borers and Cottony Maple Scale. 176 

White Marked Tussock Moth and Forest Tent Caterpillar. 184 

Elm Leaf Beetle and Bag or Basket Worm. 186 

Oak Insects . 188 

Fall Web Worm and Spiny Elm Caterpillar . 190 

















/ 
















l 















J 












BLACK PLATES 


OPPOSITE 

Maple and Elm. 44 

Ginkgo. 68 

Basswood or American Linden. 70 

Red Oak. 72 

Horse Chestnut. 74 

European Linden. 76 

Sweet Gum. 78 

Willow. 80 

Catalpa. 82 

Sycamore. 84 

A Roadside Lined with Lombardy Poplars. 90 

Sugar Maple (Forest Form). 92 

Shag Bark Hickory. 96 

Chestnut. 100 

Pecan. 102 

Mrs. Harding Planting an Elm. 108 

Planting at Grant's Tomb . no 

Tree Planted in Memory of John Muir. 112 

Marshall Joffre Plants Memorial Tree. 114 

Theodore Roosevelt Post Planting a Tree. 116 

Tree Planting on Lincoln Highway. 118 

The New Garden Oak. 120 

Kentucky Coffee Tree. 122 


























TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


CHAPTER I. 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 

The groves were God's first temples. Ere man learned 
To hew the shaft, and lay the architrave, 

And spread the roof above them—ere he framed 

The lofty vault to gather and roll back 

The sound of anthems; in the darkling wood, 

Amidst the cool and silence, he knelt down, 

And offered to the Mightiest solemn thanks 
And supplication. 

—William Cullen Bryant. 


M AN owes it to himself to see that the street and road¬ 
side shade tree is given its well-earned place in the sun. 
This place has been won through a service of centuries. 
Since time began, the shade tree has been the changeless 
and unfailing friend of the human race. It has graced 
earth with its beauty, and to every generation has given 
freely of its protective shelter. Beneath its friendly boughs 
man has found refuge from the blazing sun and the angry 
storm. To every human being the shade tree is a bene¬ 
factor; to every community a blessing and a benediction. 

Shade-giving is the one thing in which the tree’s 
relations with man have stood unchanged. All other 
relationships of tree and man have varied with the ages, for 
the uses of wood have gone through a steady development 
with the progress of the race. Shade trees alone, among the 
children of the forest, have been ever constant. 

There has, it is true, been no change in the influence of 
trees on literature. To-day, as for countless centuries, 
man seeks the shade of a friendly tree to write or to enjoy 
what others have written. The poets of by-gone ages 
2 * 17 


i8 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


found ease and inspiration in shaded nooks, and the writer 
of to-day turns likewise to the shelter of his favorite tree. 

One of the beauty spots of the world is the site of the 
tomb of Virgil, overlooking the Gulf of Naples. This 
tomb marks the great poet’s favorite retreat during his 
last years of life, and it was there, according to tradition, 
that he wrote his undying epics. The visitor to Posilippo 
finds it easy to understand why these wooded slopes, over¬ 
looking the blue Mediterranean, held such charm for the 
poet and made him choose this spot for his final resting 
place. In the same way, a visit to Cambridge shows 
why our own Longfellow sought the soothing shade of his 
beloved Elms for the writing of poems no less enduring 
than those of Virgil. For each of them, as for all man¬ 
kind, the shade trees held irresistible charm. 

Trees have had their part in history no less than 
in literature. In modern warfare the great generals 
pitched their tents and held their councils under 
the trees, as did the captains of Carthage, Greece and 
Rome. The Cedars of Lebanon and the trees of Gethsem- 
ane have deathless place in man’s memory. It was under 
an Oak that Abraham received the angel, and it was in 
the shade of a tree that Socrates and Plato held discus¬ 
sion. Turn where one may, in the pages of history or in 
the life of to-day, the shade tree makes constant appeal to 
the imagination and to the sense of romance because of its 
unchanging role as man’s faithful friend. Through all 
the ages the sheltering tree has had no rivals. “The 
Groves were God’s first temples,” and man’s apprecia¬ 
tion of their use and beauty gives them everlasting place 
in his affections. 

This permanent kinship entitles the shade tree to a 
foremost place on the bookshelf. Shade trees merit the 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


19 


best attention that can be given them. The more we know 
of their proper treatment, the greater will be our opportuni¬ 
ties for enjoying them. The more we study methods for 
their growth and nurture, the more of them we will have; 
and the more we have, the greater will be the beauty of our 
communities and our roads. 

The purpose of this book is to simplify to some extent 
the problems of those who would grow shade trees. These 
problems can be made easy by study and the application 
of simple rules of safety and caution. The problems 
cover such subjects as the choice of the tree best suited for 
planting in a particular soil and location, its planting, its 
growth, its care and its protection. To disregard the 
information presented is to invite disappointment. To 
observe it is to bring true shade tree satisfaction which 
will repay the effort a thousand fold. 

It must be borne in mind that for its friendly offices the 
shade tree is entitled to man’s best care and protection. 
In its demands it asks nothing in selfishness. Its one aim 
is to thrive for man’s benefit. Its sole purpose is to bless 
the world with its kindly gifts. In giving the shade tree 
its well-earned place in the sun, man is but creating, 
for himself and his heirs, a place in the welcome shade. 

The city with fine shade trees is the City Beautiful. 
Travel where one may, in this country or abroad, it is soon 
learned that the final test of a city’s beauty is its shade 
trees. Fine buildings and broad avenues are not enough. 
The best works of artist and architect must have trees to 
set off and enhance their splendor. A city without an 
abundance of shade trees on streets, on lawns and in parks 
is incomplete. 

When the traveler gives thought to the world’s most 
beautiful cities, he thinks instinctively of Washington and 
Paris; and in thinking of them he delights in the memory 


20 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


of their wealth of trees. To the fame of these two capitals 
shade trees have given generously of their charm. In each 
of these cities great architects and gifted artists have 
created buildings of rare splendor and stately grace, such 
as the White House, the Capitol, the Pan-American 
Building and the perfect facade of the Treasury Buildingj 
in our own National Capital; and the Louvre, the Elysee 
Palace and the marvellous creations of Versailles, in Paris 
and its environs. One lingers in admiration and reverence 
on these wonders, but the chief charm of both cities is 
found in the magnificent shade trees which line their 
streets and beautify their lawns, parks and public grounds. 

Who can picture Sixteenth Street, or Massachusetts 
Avenue, or any of the streets of Washington deprived of 
shade tree beauty? How much pride could Americans 
take in the beautiful park around their Capitol if the 
grounds lacked the trees which now cover its sweeping 
slopes? How would Paris look without its Champs 
Elysees, its Bois de Boulogne or its Champ de Mars? 
Think of New York covered with brick and stone through¬ 
out the area now occupied by Central Park, a Chicago 
without Lincoln Park, a Boston without its splendid 
Common, or a San Francisco lacking its Golden Gate 
Park. Visualize without their trees, the city streets, parks 
or lawns with which you are familiar, and see what be¬ 
comes of the City Beautiful. 

Throughout America there are cities famous for their 
shade trees. The magnificent Elms of New Haven and 
Oberlin, the tree-lined thoroughfares of Brooklyn, East 
Orange, Springfield, Mass., Detroit, Indianapolis and 
Los Angeles—compare them with city streets which lack 
the glory of the trees. The contrast should give each of us 
increased spirit to see that our own streets and our own 
lawns shall not suffer by any similar comparison. 


WHITE OAK IN AUTUMN 


























































































21 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 

The worth of trees to a city is by no means confined to 
beauty. The city of fine shade trees is the City Healthful 
as well as the City Beautiful. In comfort, in health and in 
sanitation the shade tree is an important factor in civic 
welfare. Only a part of the benefit gained by man from 
shade trees is reckoned as by pleasure to the eye, and relief 
from the direct rays of the sun. Added to the welcome 
shelter is the cooling influence produced by the trees 
through their leaves; for trees transpire through their 
leaves in a way that has a pronounced influence on tem¬ 
perature. By absorbing moisture from the earth through 
their roots and releasing much of it into the air through 
their leaf-pores, the trees cool the air and freshen it. Enter 
the woods on a hot summer day, note that the temperature 
among the trees is several degrees lower than in the open. 
Wherever a shade tree spreads its leafy branches, this 
influence is constantly at work. 

By this process of evaporating and exhaling moisture, 
the trees not only reduce the temperature, but serve a 
further useful purpose in giving off oxygen required 
by man in the air he breathes; and, by drinking in the 
carbonic acid gas, perform a double function in purifying 
the air. 

Medical authorities recognize the value of trees in 
their influence on the health of a community. In the study 
of human illness, and particularly of the ailments of children 
in the crowded cities, doctors have found that trees do 
much toward reducing the death rate. Research has shown 
that one of the chief causes of sickness and death among 
the children of the congested districts is the stifling heat 
of midsummer days, intensified by reflection from heated 
pavements and sunbaked walls. On streets where shade 
trees are lacking, this reflected heat is given off night and 
day, to the severe discomfort and serious harm of people 


22 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


so unfortunate as to be denied the grateful shade of tree- 
lined thoroughfares. 

In addition there is a different stimulus produced on 
the nervous system by the various colors. The effect of 
green is soothing, so that foliage masses tend to counteract 
the irritating effect of many of the colors common in city 
streets, especially that of red brick buildings. 

What has been said for trees in the city holds equally 
well for the open country, although, to those familiar 
with country conditions in the eastern United States 
a country lacking in trees can hardly be realized. In nat¬ 
urally treeless regions, tree masses are also valuable in 
protecting small areas from the sweep of the drying 
winds and making possible the growing of plants, not 
otherwise practicable, as well as making living conditions 
more comfortable. 

From every point of view, shade trees are of vast im¬ 
portance to the dweller in city, town or country. In 
beauty, in comfort and in public health the shade tree is 
the indispensable and never failing friend of man. 


CHAPTER II. 


TREES CROWN THE HOME 


What does he plant who plants a tree? 
He plants, in sap and leaf and wood, 
In love of home and loyalty, 

And far-cast thought of civic good 
His blessing on the neighborhood. 


A LL of the arguments in favor of trees for the com¬ 
munity at large, and for the town or city street or the 
country road, bear with concentrated force on trees for the 
individual home. However small the lot, if there is a place 
for a tree there should be a tree in that place. If there is no 
room for a tree, shrubs, at least, should be planted. Trees 
and shrubs give the final touch that marks the difference 
between the home and the mere house. Shaded lawns 
complete the picture of shaded thoroughfares. They pro¬ 
vide the poetry of the home setting; they give expression to 
the bit of sentiment with which every true home-lover is 
blessed; they color the home with the tinge of romance 
that meets universal human need. 

No other feature does as much to give the home a well- 
dressed appearance as the presence of trees. Whether it be 
the stately mansion, with its broad sweep of spacious lawn, 
or the modest residence on the forty-foot lot, the graceful 
foliage of trees or shrubs is necessary to produce the home¬ 
like charm. If there is room for many trees, this room 
should be used; but the space for the single tree must not 
be neglected. 

It is only necessary to note the appearance of homes in 
general to realize the emphasis of beauty produced by trees 
and shrubs. The best kept lawn, whether the impressive 
slope of the pretentious establishment or the tiny strip of 

23 


24 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


grass on the small city lot, is robbed of its best chance for 
attractiveness by a lack of shade and foliage. The transfor¬ 
mation brought about by the planting of trees and shrub¬ 
bery is sometimes beyond belief until the demonstration 
has been actually made. By careful planting, the compar¬ 
atively small place can be given the dignity of acres; the 
modest home may assume the appearance of the small-scale 
estate. The house glimpsed through foliage has a charm 
not possible to the more costly house in treeless setting. 

In lawn plantings, as in street plantings, the relation of 
cost to results is an important consideration. The 
increased value, accruing to all of the property on a tree- 
lined thoroughfare, is again made greater in the case of the 
individual home which adds trees of its own to those of the 
street. Any one of us, in buying a home or a site on which 
to build, would be influenced in favor of the lot with shade 
and foliage. Trees and shrubs give the contact with 
Nature which man instinctively craves, and for which he 
is willing to pay. 

Let it be remembered, then, that in beautifying the 
home with trees the outlay is to be regarded as an invest¬ 
ment, pure and simple; an investment in beauty, in health, 
in comfort, and, finally, in cash value. Any one of these 
would make the investment worth while. 

The tree, therefore, should be recognized as blending 
beauty, poetry, sentiment and romance with the practical 
and important elements of profit and health. 

The planting of shade trees, too, must be looked upon as 
an investment, not as an expense. Trees increase the dollar 
and cent value of property. Those familiar with the 
values of residence real estate recognize the greater worth 
of homes on streets lined with shade trees. Of two houses 
alike in design and structure, the place on the shaded 
street will always command the higher price. 







BEECH IN WINTER 





























































TREES CROWN THE HOME 


25 


This principle applies to communities as well as to 
individual homes. The visitor to town or city gains his 
first and most lasting impression from the presence or 
absence of shade trees. The community with streets bare 
and bleak and shadeless is dismissed as an undesirable 
place in which to live. Shaded streets and tree-clad lawns 
have a charm which often proves the deciding factor in 
influencing the home seeker in his choice of a place of 
residence. 

Definite evidence of this is found in the efforts of real 
estate men to give new property added beauty and attrac¬ 
tiveness by the planting of trees. That their choice of 
species is ofttimes ill-advised, because of demand for 
quick growth, does not change the major truth that they 
recognize the value of the shade tree. Experience has 
shown them that in the sale of homes in a new residence 
district, trees are as essential as sidewalks and paving, and 
second only to sewer, water, gas and electric connections. 

Whether along the street or on the individual lawn, 
the cost of planting trees is insignificant, and no man who 
can afford to own a home can afford to deny himself and 
his family the added beauty, health and comfort to be 
derived from trees. It is not a question of one’s ability 
to afford the outlay. It is a simple truth that none of us 
can afford not to do it; tree planting is good business as 
well as good taste. 

Unlike paving and other improvements, including the 
house itself, the tree, properly cared for, is not subject to 
depreciation in value. On the contrary, its worth becomes 
greater with the passing years. In the towns of New 
England to-day there are massive Elms which are known 
to have spread their overhanging beauty before the eyes of 
the Pilgrim, and which now give to the old homes a 
value that can be measured in dollars just as surely as in 


26 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


beauty, in the same way that the massive Oaks of the South 
Atlantic and Gulf States have added beauty and value to 
plantation and town. What could be a more grievous 
mental picture than that of Northampton, Greenfield, or 
historic Williamstown, in Massachusetts; picturesque old 
Charlestown, in New Hampshire, or Savannah, Georgia, 
or Mobile, or Tuscaloosa, Ala., or Pass Christian, Miss., 
or any one of scores of other communities, shorn of 
the crowning beauty of these stately veterans of shade? 

The community in which any one of us may live is 
entitled to this asset. That our forefathers failed to 
provide shade for the coming generations is no excuse for 
similar failure on our part. The longer we delay the plant¬ 
ing the more remote will be the time of gaining the bene¬ 
fits of the trees we plant. We can never start any younger. 
This applies to communities and individuals alike. The 
time, therefore, for a beginning is the immediate present. 


CHAPTER III. 


HOW TO IDENTIFY SHADE TREES 


H OW many trees do you know well enough to call by 
name at sight? Can you tell an Oak from a Beech, 
a Red Oak from a White Oak or a Norway Maple from a 
Sugar Maple? Do you know the difference between the 
Buckeye and the Horse Chestnut? 

The man who loves trees should be able to identify 
them at a glance. This does not mean that he should 
turn botanist and spend his life in the pursuit of such 
terms as “staminal differentiation” or “pinnately com¬ 
pound,” or that he must study the trees of Borneo or 
Madagascar. It does not call for scholarly research into 
the many-syllabled Latin names employed by the scien¬ 
tists. Plat anus Occidentalis is all right for the expert, but 
for the plain citizen the simple name of Sycamore meets 
every demand. The one thing that is suggested is that he 
should make himself familiar with the trees most commonly 
found in his own section of the country and that he 
learn to know them by the names in everyday use. 

A little study along this line may save one from em¬ 
barrassing moments when somebody asks the name of a 
particular tree in city park or by country roadside. 

Take the Oaks, for instance. The average man is not 
concerned with the distinction between Quercus palustris 
and Quercus velutina . What he wants to know is how to 
tell the Pin Oak from the Black Oak. He would like 
to be able to distinguish an Oak from the other trees and 
the different species of Oaks from one another. 

As a group the Oaks carry general marks of distinction 

from other trees. One of these marks is the bearing of 

27 


28 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


acorns, in which the Oak has no competition. Within 
the group itself, however, there is more or less kinship 
of appearance which is confusing to the person who has 
given no thought to identifying trees. 

All of the Oaks may be grouped as either white or 
black. To the former group belong the White Oak 
proper and the Bur Oak, Swamp White Oak, Chestnut 
Oak, Overcup Oak, the Post Oak and Live Oak, which 
may be recognized by the rounded lobes of their leaves, 
with the exception of the Post Oak and Live Oak, which 
have no lobes; and by their light grey or light buffish- 
brown bark, which breaks off into loose, flaky scales. 
The Bur Oak is distinguished from its close kinsmen by 
its cork-like branches. The trees of this group mature their 
acorns in a single year, and for this reason acorns of old and 
new crops are never found on a tree at the same time. 

To the Black Oak group belong the Black, Red, Pin 
and Scarlet Oaks, Spanish, Water, Willow and Laurel 
Oaks. Instead of the rounded lobes of the leaves of the 
other group, all of these have leaves with lobes that are 
sharply pointed, or the leaves are tipped with bristles. 
The Pin Oak may be recognized by its horizontal and 
drooping zigzag lower branches, the deeply cut leaves, the 
tiny branchlets set into its limbs suggesting wooden pins, 
and the small acorns and cups. The Black Oak has rough, 
dark bark, growing in ridges; its leaves are a deep lustrous 
green above and dull light olive green beneath; its buds 
are pointed and have a dense, hairy covering. The inner 
bark is yellow and has a very bitter taste, in sharp dis¬ 
tinction to that of the closely related trees such as 
Scarlet Oak. The Scarlet and Red Oak have nearly 
smooth bark. The Red Oak when young has bark that is 
almost smooth, greyish or greenish cast brown, becoming 
darker later. Its new twigs are terra-cotta colored and the 


WHITE 

OAK 



SCARLET 

OAK 













30 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


older ones sepia-brown or grey. Its buds are pointed and 
practically free from hairs; the leaves are not as deeply 
lobed as the Black and Scarlet Oak and are of a dull, dark 
green or yellowish green on the upper side, somewhat paler 
underneath and with lighter veins. In the autumn the 
leaves turn a deep maroon red. It has a large acorn set 
in a broad shallow cup. The Scarlet Oak has thick dark 
brown bark, with irregular, shallow furrows. Its leaves 
are thin, a shiny olive green above, somewhat paler 
beneath. The autumn coloring of the leaves is deep, car¬ 
dinal red. The buds are blunt and smooth with a slight 
hairy covering at the base. The oaks of the Black Oak group 
require two years to mature their acorns, and for this reason 
the same tree will, at the same time, show young acorns of 
the new crop and fully grown acorns of the previous year. 
The kernel of the acorn in the White Oak group is mostly 
lacking in the bitter principle, some of them being quite 
edible, while those of the Black Oak group are bitter. 

Ash leaves are composed of several leaflets along a 
single leaf stalk. These leaflets are in pairs, opposite to 
each other on the stem, together with a terminal leaflet. 
The number of leaflets on each ranges from five to nine, 
most frequently seven. The leaves are also arranged 
opposite one another on the twigs and branches. There 
is a wide difference between the characteristics of the 
Green Ash and those of the White Ash. The leaves of 
the White Ash are whitish beneath and smooth, often 
with a few suggestions of coarse teeth; those of the Green 
Ash are green on both surfaces and have teeth like saws. 

While the Horse Chestnut belongs to the same genus as 
the Buckeye, the two are quite different. The leaves of 
the Horse Chestnut are seven-fingered, while those of the 
Ohio, Sweet and Red Buckeyes are usually five-fingered; 
the flowers of the former are five-petaled, of the Buckeyes 


WILLOW 



VALLEY OAK 


LIVE OAK 


CALIFORNIA LIVE OAK 









32 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


four-petaled. The fruit of the Horse Chestnut is a glob¬ 
ular husk containing a single nut; that of the Buckeye 
usually contains two. The Horse Chestnut has the ad¬ 
vantage of the Buckeye in profusion and beauty of blooms. 
The buds of the former are sticky, shiny and resinous, 
which is not true of the Buckeye. 

The Maples have opposite leaves, with deeply recessed 
edges and always bear keys, or seeds with a long wing¬ 
like appendage, in pairs. These are as characteristic as 
acorns are of the Oaks. The leaves are borne in pairs, one 
opposite the other, along the stems. On the Norway 
Maple, the leaves are broader than long, five-lobed and 
easily identified for the reason that the leaf stalks and 
veins give forth a milky juice when cut or broken. Its 
bark is dark grey, fairly smooth and compact, with 
shallow, close and narrow furrows. Its twigs are compara¬ 
tively stout. The Sugar Maple has leaves very much 
like those of the Norway Maple, but are longer than 
broad and the exuded sap is clear. Its bark is a light 
brownish-grey, deeply furrowed perpendicularly into coarse 
flakes. Its twigs are about half as thick as in the Norway 
Maple. The bark of the Red Maple is smooth in youth, 
furrowed and shaggy and with long ridges on older trees, 
and changing in color from light to dark greyish-brown 
as the tree matures. The leaves are quite variable but are 
three-lobed, sharp pointed and, quite unlike the Norway 
and Sugar Maple, have definite saw-tooth edges. Leaf 
and flower buds as well as twigs and fruits are red, the 
summer foliage a light green on red stems and the autumn 
leaves a brilliant scarlet. There is a variety with yellow¬ 
ish instead of red twigs, flowers and fruits. 

The Box Elder, or Ash-leaved Maple, is to be distin¬ 
guished by its ash-like leaves of three to five leaflets on 
a single stalk, coarsely toothed and usually deep green. 

















34 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


The bark on the trunk resembles that of the Ash, and is 
light brownish-grey, with narrow, shallow furrows. The 
young twigs are a light olive green. 

The Sycamore is a large, handsome American tree. 
Its European relatives are called plane trees. The name 
Sycamore is used in Europe for the Sycamore Maple or 
False Plane Tree, while in the Orient and among the 
ancients it was a kind of Fig. The Sycamore is also called 
Buttonwood, Buttonball or Button Ball tree, Plane tree 
and American Plane. It has large maple-shaped leaves 
but has balls instead of keys as the seed vessel; the leaves 
of the Sycamore are not borne opposite one another, being 
thus in contrast to the habit of the Maple. Furthermore 
its bark peels off in thin, brittle layers, a characteristic 
lacking in the Maples except to a very small extent in the 
Sycamore Maple. The peeling process leaves almost white 
patches on the dull, ruddy brown bark, giving a character¬ 
istic mottled effect which can be recognized at a long 
distance. This appearance is not even suggested in the 
Sycamore Maple. Another characteristic peculiar to this 
tree is that the base of the leafstalk makes a cap-like cover¬ 
ing over the young buds and the bud is not seen in the axil 
of the leaf as in nearly all other trees. The leaves are light 
green, five-lobed, and with a few coarse teeth. The fruit is 
in the form of a single ball, rarely two, known as the but¬ 
tonball, which changes from green to light brown in the au¬ 
tumn and hangs throughout the winter. The London 
Plane, often cultivated as the Oriental Plane—a sister tree 
to the Sycamore—sheds its bark as does the Sycamore but 
leaves pale greenish patches beneath, instead of almost 
white ones. Instead of the single ball the fruit of this 
tree is generally borne in clusters of from two to four. 

In the American Elm, the trunk divides gradually a 
short distance from the ground into two or more stout 






TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


36 

branches, which curve gracefully upward and outward to 
form a symmetrical, rounded, wide-spreading or vase¬ 
like top. This tree’s brownish grey bark is furrowed into 
perpendicular flat-topped ridges, very rough and solid, 
with whitish inner layers. The tree is marked by droop¬ 
ing twigs, and by pointed leaves which are usually quite 
rough above, sharply double-toothed, with straight, pale 
veins clearly marked and extending to the teeth on the 
margins. The English Elm has an oblong top, often 
divided into two sections, one above the other and the 
lower smaller than the upper. The trunk does not sep¬ 
arate into branches as in the American Elm, but is more 
or less continuous well into the top of the tree. Its 
branches are crooked and heavy, and its twigs do not 
droop as do those of the American Elm. The leaves are 
similar to those of the American Elm, but are apt to be 
smaller. The two trees are similar as to bark, except that 
the bark of the English Elm is the harder and coarser. 

The Hackberry resembles the Elm in some respects, 
but its trunk does not divide so gradually. Its light 
bark is irregularly ridged and after a few years is covered 
with prominent wart-like projections of the outer bark, 
which are a distinguishing characteristic. The leaves, 
like those of the Elm, are unevenly developed and lopsided 
to a much greater extent than in the Elm. They are a 
light olive green, sharp pointed and coarsely toothed, 
and each leaf has its two lowest side veins prominent 
and extending well up from the base. The berry resem¬ 
bles a yellow cherry, turning to purple-black and is sweet 
and edible. 

While the various Poplars have numerous points in 
common, they are marked by distinctive characteristics. 
The Lombardy Poplar is tall and slender, shaped like the 
spire of a church, and its erect branches normally start at 







38 TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 

a point not far above the ground; its bark is brown and 
rough, the leaves a dull olive green, blunt toothed and 
triangular, often broader than long, and tapering to a 
sharp point. The Carolina Poplar, or Cottonwood, has 
a wider crown and more open branching than the Lom¬ 
bardy Poplar, and is marked by its large twigs at the 
ends of branches; its bark is dark grey, almost smooth, and 
its leaves are larger than those of the Lombardy and have 
coarse teeth. The Quaking or American Aspen, another 
member of the Poplar group, is easily recognized by its 
finely toothed, small, trembling leaves, its reddish 
brown twigs and its sharply pointed narrow buds; its 
trunk, gradually tapering to the top and its slender 
branches. In the Large-toothed Aspen the buds are 
thicker and broader and the leaves have much coarser and 
more remote teeth. The unfolding leaves are white and 
woolly. 

The Ginkgo is a tree of unusual appearance, with 
slender branches, extending upward and outward from 
the trunk at an angle of approximately 45 degrees. The 
trunk and branches are straight and tapering, the bark 
dark brown or greyish, smooth in youth and becoming 
rough and seamed. The leaves are a bright green, fan¬ 
shaped, and have several short clefts in the edge, and 
grow from alternating short button-like branches in 
clusters of from three to six. Because the leaves resemble 
those of the maidenhair fern in shape, though much 
larger, this tree is frequently called the Maidenhair Tree. 

The American Beech is marked by its smooth, close 
grey bark, hugging the trunk and branches even in old 
trees, which permanently show every cut or bruise. In 
its close bark it resembles the Red Maple, but in the 
Beech the branches and twigs are alternate, while in the 
Red Maple they grow opposite^ each other. The leaves 









40 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


of the Beech are thin, finely and straightly veined, sharp 
pointed and sharply toothed. The nuts grpw two in a 
bur and form a sharply three-sided pyramid of a shiny 
brown color. The European Beech has similar though 
often darker bark, and its leaves are proportionately 
broader, though smaller, with less pronounced teeth and 
with 5 to 9 pairs of side veins, instead of 9 to 14 pairs, 
as in the American Beech. 

The trunk of the Grey Birch, when young, has a shiny 
bark of reddish brown, and as the tree matures, the bark 
becomes a dull chalky white with triangular dark patches 
underneath the bases of the branches. The bark is close- 
fitting, does not peel rapidly, and has thick short hori¬ 
zontal lines. The branches are slender and the lowest 
droop, while those near the top are ascending or erect. 
The leaves are triangular, sharply long pointed, and have 
fine teeth. The White, or Canoe Birch, has buff-white 
bark which peels off in paper-like layers. It lacks the 
triangular patches seen on the Grey Birch. The leaves 
are egg-shaped instead of triangular and double-toothed. 
The Paper Birch resembles the Grey Birch in that it has 
the same chalky-white bark, but it is different in that the 
bark of the Paper Birch peels off readily in thin layers, and 
that the dark, triangular patches are missing. 

The Basswood, or American Linden, has brownish 
grey bark with long, vertical fissures. The leaves are 
broadly heart-shaped and one-sided at base. The leaves 
of the European Linden are more evenly heart-shaped 
and are smaller than those of the Basswood. The flowers 
of the Basswood have five creamy white petals opposite 
petal-like scales; in the flowers of the European tree these 
scales are lacking. 




WHITE ELM RED SPRUCE 


BEECH 


WHITE ASH 


RED MAPLE 


TAMARACK 


WHITE PINE 

















































. 








' 





























































TULIP POPLAR 


SWEET-GUM 


SCARLET OAK 



BASSWOOD 


WHITE CEDAR 


FLOWERING DOGWOOD 


SHAGBARK HICKORY 














































































































































































r 


c 






































- 























4 









* 




> 











- 


* 





% 

























9 

• • 




4 








HARD MAPLE 



tS Sik i,,. 


WHITE MAPLE 




/ 


/ 
















































* 









4 

















. 




















0 


r 
















' 



























































© 




< 


RED OAK 




CH ESTN UT 


/ 






























































- 













' * 



















































CHAPTER IV. 

SELECTION OF TREES FOR PLANTING 

I T is of basic importance in the planning of shade tree 
planting that due care and attention be given to 
the selection of the species best suited for the particular 
location. Choosing the right variety is the starting point 
of shade tree success. A tree unsuited to the climate, soil, 
or other local conditions of growth can not be expected to 
produce the desired results. All other rules may be care¬ 
fully observed and the most painstaking and intelligent 
attention may be given to planting, pruning and general 
care, but if an unsuitable variety is selected, the results 
will be disappointing. 

Choice of proper varieties is not difficult. The factors 
that determine the selection are adaptability to the 
climate and to the soil of the locality, suitability of the 
size, form and denseness of shade to the streets upon 
which they are to be planted, and ability to withstand 
gases, smoke and other untoward city conditions. 

To secure hardiness, trees should be used that are known 
to thrive locally or under similar conditions. They should 
also be selected with regard to the soil where they are to 
be grown. The soil of streets is often far from ideal and 
as it is impossible to modify more than a small part of 
the future feeding ground, trees must be selected to suit 
the soil. Another requirement is hardiness, ability to 
overcome handicaps, combined with adaptability to 
particular environment. In cold climates this factor 
includes strength to withstand snow, ice and freezing, 
and in all climates it involves power of resistance to wind, 
mechanical injuries, insects and diseases. Rapidity of 

41 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


42 

growth is another point for consideration and in this it 
is as necessary to know what to avoid as what to seek. 
The lure of rapid growth has been responsible for the 
planting of numbers of Silver Maples, Carolina Poplars, 
Water Oaks and other species undesirable for the region 
where they were planted. It must be remembered that 
these trees grow rapidly but that they are short lived. 
A Carolina Poplar or Silver Maple will have to be replaced 
at about the time a Red Oak, a Sycamore or a Norway 
Maple has reached its best development. It must be 
remembered also that careful cultivation is a factor in 
tree growth, and that some of the slower growing varieties 
will show more rapid increase, under proper care, than 
the desirable ones would if left to shift for themselves. 

Shade-giving qualities are also an important factor, 
particularly for street trees. Too much shade may be 
as undesirable as too little, and selection should be 
based on the character and width of the street. For 
narrow streets it is best to have trees of slender growth 
or small size, with light foliage, or those in which develop¬ 
ment can be controlled by pruning, in order that the sun¬ 
light may not be entirely shut off from the houses and 
the grass. On thoroughfares of unusual width, the utmost 
in dignity and effectiveness may be obtained by using the 
largest trees and allowing full development of the crown. 

A point to be borne in mind is that beauty is not the 
sole result desired in successful shade tree development. 
If it were, it would be hard to resist the temptation to use 
exclusively trees of the broad spreading type, for the sake 
of the overhanging arch of foliage which would result 
from the meeting of the branches from the two sides of the 
street. Experience has shown that, despite the beauty of 
an archway shade, the dense foliage of the arch may 
prevent the free circulation of air, shut off sunlight from 


PIN OAK 










































































•* 










. 











SELECTION OF TREES FOR PLANTING 


43 


the grass, and produce undesirable dampness by inter¬ 
fering with speedy drying-out after rainfall. It may often 
be much better to have trees of more upright growth. 
If the upright trees lack the over-arching beauty of the 
others, they offer compensation in their individual state¬ 
liness, and by serving as a beautiful frame for setting off 
their environment. A thoroughfare lined with trees of 
this type offers a vista not possible with the trees which 
arch the roadway from curb to curb. A variation is the 
use of trees of a type to be kept closely pruned into small 
size and formal shape. For exclusive business streets and 
those where narrow sidewalks and poor growing conditions 
are a handicap, this is particularly desirable. It is much 
used in European cities, where careful attention has been 
given to tree planting. With proper attention and care, 
trees of small size will thrive in small patches of soil 
where larger trees, with their spreading root systems, 
might languish. The effect of these formally pruned trees 
is dignified and decorative, and gives a fine touch of green 
to a street lined with high-class shops or handsome houses 
in solid rows. An important advantage of this type of 
planting is that, in the event of the death of one of the 
trees, replacement is easy when nursery stock is kept for 
the purpose. European cities provide for replacements by 
keeping a supply of fair-sized trees in municipal nurseries 
for emergency use. Since all the trees are kept pruned to 
small size, little time is required before a transplanted tree 
has developed a crown uniform with that of the older tree. 

Clean habits are as important in trees as in human 
beings. Some trees are entirely lacking in observance of 
the proprieties as to causing litter through blooms or 
fruit or through the breaking and falling of fragile twigs 
and branches. These trees are to be avoided for the sake 
of neighborhood pride in good housekeeping. The Caro- 


44 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


lina Poplar is one of the worst offenders. Its brittle 
quality causes limbs to break, while its bulging roots and 
trunk mar the evenness of curb and sidewalk and cause 
cracking of concrete or flagstones; and the dropping of 
spring blossoms is so extensive as to become a nuisance. 

Silver Maples break sidewalks through the action of 
their roots, and have disadvantages similar to those of the 
Carolina Poplar. The staminate (male) Ailanthus is 
objectionable to many because of the unpleasant odor of 
its flowers, and care should be taken to use only pistillate 
(female) trees, the flowers of which lack this odor. Only 
the staminate or non-fruit-bearing form of the Ginkgo 
should be used as the falling fleshy fruits not only make 
the pavement slippery, but are somewhat poisonous 
to the skin of some people. The Cottonwood spreads 
its seeds in the form of a fine cotton or down which 
is quite objectionable because it is often irritating to the 
respiratory organs and is most untidy. It can be avoided 
by using staminate trees only. As Poplars are grown 
from cuttings, trees of the desired sex may be obtained by 
making cuttings from trees of that sex. Root cuttings 
from an ungrafted tree of the proper sex could be used for 
propagating the Ailanthus, but the Ginkgoes would have 
to be grafted. 

A final consideration, but by no means the least 
important, is the element of beauty. This involves form, 
vigor and suitability to location and environment. 
Factors of beauty also include the coloring of the leaves 
and the nature and appearance of flowers or fruit. Fine 
examples of coloring are to be found in the brilliant 
autumn foliage of the Red Oak, following its summer 
dress of heavy dark-green leaves. The gorgeousness of the 
Maples in autumn coloring makes these trees general 
favorites for street planting. Of the Horse Chestnut, the 



MAPLE AND ELM 



































































































♦ 
























































SELECTION OF TREES FOR PLANTING 45 

chief charm is its beautiful flowers in spring, but this is 
counteracted by its bareness when it sheds its leaves in 
early autumn. 

For the country as a whole, no trees can be named as 
entirely good and none as entirely bad. Even for any par¬ 
ticular city or county the same holds, as width of street, 
character of soil or other consideration may render a tree 
that in general is excellent for the locality, of little value 
for the particular purpose. Further, trees that are most 
undesirable over a large range of country are, many of 
them, of much value under more severe conditions, such 
as the Poplars and the Hackberry, which are valuable 
trees in many parts of the West. 

Here is presented a list of good trees for many sections 
of the United States and also a list of those that are often 
mistakenly used. 

Red Oak. —The Red 
Oak comes nearest of any to 
being the best shade tree 
for the eastern half of the 
United States. It is a strong 
competitor of the Elm in 
the regions of the latter’s 
best development, as well as 
of the Sugar Maple where it 
thrives best, and of the 
Willow Oak and Live Oak in their special region, but has a 
much wider range of prime development than any of these. 
It grows more rapidly than other Oaks and adapts itself to a 
wide diversity of soil conditions. This species is at home in 
almost any soil, including locations close to the ocean. Its 
trunk is straight and strong, its top symmetrically oval or 
round, and foliage luxurious and turning a bright red with 
the approach of cold weather, remaining on the tree till late 






46 TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 

in the fall. It largely escaped injury in New England 
in the severe sleet storm of November 1921 that was 
so destructive to the Elms, Maples and other orna¬ 
mental trees. The city of Washington has used the Red 
Oak on stretches of street, with results that are not 
excelled on any thoroughfare in the city, as has also 
Atlanta, Georgia. 

Pin Oak.—-Among the Oaks, first choice for street 
planting is usually, though undeservedly, given the Pin 

Oak, so named in allusion to 
the dead twigs, which re¬ 
semble pins driven into the 
trunk. With fair soil this 
tree grows well in small area, 
and it yields to pruning in a 
way that makes it possible 
for the tree to be kept of 
relatively small size or be al¬ 
lowed to attain considerable 
development. Where the 
root area is restricted, pruning will check expansion 
of the top and hold crown and root system in the 
harmonious relationship needed for best results. The 
Broadway roof of the New York subway, far uptown, 
shows these trees, growing in shallow soil and pruned 
into formal shape with excellent effect. The Pin 
Oak has upright trunk and its crown is a natural 
pyramid, with young slender horizontal branches, nor¬ 
mally of formal outline and fine foliage. Either pruned, 
or permitted to follow its full development, the tree is 
highly desirable for street purposes. It has few enemies 
and these are easily controlled. The autumn foliage is 
a deep scarlet and extremely attractive, but the dead 
leaves hang on most of the winter. 


‘Sfe PIN OAK 





SELECTION OF TREES FOR PLANTING 47 


Scarlet Oak. —This tree 
is even less exacting as to 
soil than the Red Oak. It 
will grow almost anywhere 
and the brilliant coloring 
of its autumn foliage fully 
justifies its name. A row 
of these Oaks brightens the 
landscape with the striking 
beauty of a forest of flame. 
It is to gravelly soil what 
the Pin Oak is to wet clay. 


VHITE OAK 



hastened by proper location 
and good soil, while its long 
life—comparable with that 
of the Live Oak and the 
Valley Oak—gives it lasting 
beauty and value. 

Live Oak. —For planting 
in the Southern states, where 
mild climate and general 
conditions are favorable, the 



White O a k. —W h i 1 e 
better suited for lawn plant¬ 
ing than for street purposes 
the White Oak holds high 
place. Short and sturdy, 
but capable of being pruned 
to a high head, with spread¬ 
ing top, the tree is pleasing 
to the eye and productive 
of excellent shade. Its slow 
growth may be materially 










TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


48 

Live Oak is an ideal street tree Its broad, spreading 
top and evergreen leaves make it excellent as a shade tree, 
and it is much used in the towns and cities of the South. 
The tree is comparatively slow in growth and thrives 
in well drained soil. Most used in cities near the coast. 

Willow Oak. —This tree, sometimes erroneously called 
the Water Oak, is one of the best of the quick-growing 

oaks for use in the Southern 
states. It is frequently used 
with the Water Oak for 
street planting and is usu¬ 
ally confused with it. It is, 
however, a distinct tree, 
which can be distinguished 
readily from the Water Oak. 
It is longer lived and is its 
equal in every other respect. 
Trees of this variety, which 
apparently have been planted about 80 years, are found in 
excellent condition, while Water Oaks planted at the same 
time, have either entirely disappeared or are showing 
** 'irked evidences of decline. In the South the Willow Oak 
^adily transplanted, as trees 12 feet high are dug from 
the woods and planted on 
the street with success. In 
the extreme South this tree 
is nearly half evergreen. Its 
foliage does not assume the 
bright colors of the Red, Pin 
and Scarlet Oaks. 

Laurel Oak. —The Lau¬ 
rel Oak is a large oval headed 
tree that is not as rugged 
and irregular as the Live 






SELECTION OF TREES FOR PLANTING 


49 


Oak, but is suitable for street 
planting in the Southern 
states. It has large, thick, 
glossy leaves, and in the 
warmer regions it is almost 
evergreen. It is readily 
transplanted, but as it is not 
so common in the woods as 
the Willow Oak and the 
Water Oak it has not been 
so much used as a street tree. 



able for use in California 
near the ocean. It is also 
useful in region 3 and in the 
western part of region 5. 
It is easily transplanted 
when young, especially 
when planted from pots. 

Bur Oak. —The Bur Oak 
or Mossy Cup Oak is one 
of the large native Oaks and 
in many sections of the 
4 



Near the Gulf of Mexico it 
is called the Water Oak. 

Valley Oak. —The Valley 
Oak is a beautiful tree for 
regions like California. 
When transplanted young, 
especially if taken from a 
pot, it is easily established 
where there is opportunity to 
water it for a few years. 

California Live Oak.*.<>? 
This is an evergreen su» 









TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


5 ° 

country is much used as a shade tree. It is especially 
useful on the black soil just east of the dry farming sections 
of the country, where the rainfall is too meager for the 
Red Oak and Pin Oak to be at their best. In the autumn, 
the leaves turn a dull red or maroon. The tree thrives in 
deep, rich soil. 

American (or White) Elm. —This tree stands forth 
as the dean of shade bearers and city beautifiers for 
New England, New York and the Great Lakes region. 

To have seen the stately 
dignity and towering grace 
of the Elms of New Haven, 
Cambridge, Oberlinor Evan¬ 
ston is to have seen Ameri¬ 
can shade trees at their best. 
For wide streets and broad 
avenues it has no superior. 
With its high-arching crown, 
its gracefully drooping foli¬ 
age of brilliant green, the 
American Elm affords a summer picture not offered by 
any other variety of tree; while the leafless crown is sil¬ 
houetted against the background of winter sky with an 
artistry by which poet and painter are at once inspired 
and baffled. Whether alone or in company, the Elm is 
of commanding beauty. The solitary tree of this species 
carries the perfect message of the reigning monarch, while 
the broad avenue, enclosed in a double row of the trees 
offers an arching vista finely expressive of the thought 
that “The groves were God’s first temples.” Where its 
serious enemies can be controlled, it can be used to advan¬ 
tage. It is particularly susceptible to the elm leaf beetle 
and the tussock moth. If it can be watered when young, 
it does well in many parts of the dry Western country. 







SELECTION OF TREES FOR PLANTING 51 


English Elm. —The 

English Elm is a tall, oval¬ 
headed, compact, handsome 
tree with leaves which are 
smaller than those of the 
American Elm, and which 
stay on much later inthefall. 
It is at its best in the Puget 
Sound region, equalling the 
American Elm there and on 
the coast of California ex¬ 



pact than the American 
Elm. It succeeds well in the 
Pacific Coast states. 

Ginkgo. —The Ginkgo or 
Maidenhair Tree, which 
was imported from China 
and Japan, has taken fore¬ 
most rank among the desira¬ 
ble trees for shade purposes 
in the cities of eastern Amer¬ 
ica. Because of its hardiness 


ENGLISH £LM 



celling it. It also thrives in 
the Sacramento and San 
Joaquin Valleys and in the 
Atlantic States from Wash¬ 
ington to Georgia. 

Huntington Elm. —The 
Huntington Elm is a com¬ 
paratively round-headed 
European variety. It is a 
large, handsome tree with 
good foliage and is more com- 









52 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


and its freedom from insects and diseases, its use has been 
given special attention by the United States Department 
of Agriculture. One of the most effective bits of group 
planting in the city of Washington is the collection of 
Ginkgoes in the grounds of this department. The tree 
thrives on poor soil, and is not injured by the reflected heat 
from pavements, which causes serious harm to many trees. 
If unpruned, its shape is conical, with occasional stray 
branches at almost any angle, but becomes a broad, flat- 
topped tree with age, having obliquely-spreading straight 
branches. By trimming, it may be developed into rounded 
form at an early age. There is a pyramidal form that is 
comparable in its outline to a Lombardy Poplar that 
maintains its typical outline. Its vigorous persistence of 
growth against obstacles and its response to control of 
form by pruning make it a valuable tree for narrow city 
streets. The name Maidenhair Tree comes from the 
leaves being shaped like the leaflets of the Maidenhair 
fern. These are dark green and turn a brilliant yellow. 
The pistillate trees bear yellowish soft-fleshed fruits in 
abundance. These are objectionable because, in dropping^ 
they make the sidewalks slimy and slippery; they have a 
very disagreeable odor, and the flesh is poisonous to some 

skins. By using only the 
staminate form, grafted from 
mature trees, there need be 
no trouble from the fruits. 
Its use is growing in favor 
and should be encouraged. 

Basswood or American 
Linden. —Advocates of the 
Basswood for street purposes 
will find a living and force¬ 
ful argument for this species 






SELECTION OF TREES FOR PLANTING 


53 


in the beauty of Massachusetts Avenue in the city of Wash¬ 
ington. On a stretch of several miles along this famed resi¬ 
dential thoroughfare, the entire planting, consisting of two 
rows on each side of the street, is in Basswoods. The well 
rounded crowns and generous leafage of these trees give 
the street an attractiveness which is emphatic even in a 
city so well shaded as Washington, and with the coming 
of the fragrant June blossoms the effect is all the more 
pleasing. The tree is subject to insect enemies and sensi¬ 
tive to their attacks, but its beauty repays the effort re¬ 
quired for overcoming these handicaps. It demands a 
deep, rich soil. 

European Linden. —Of 
attractiveness akin to that 
of the Basswood is the 
European member of this 
family. The European Lin¬ 
den is erect and symmetrical, 
with attractive foliage which 
renders it an ideal street tree. 

In European cities it is one 
of the trees generally used. 

Its hardiness, adaptability, 
relatively rapid growth, response to pruning and ability 
to overcome obstacles, make it suitable for most conditions 
of soil and environmont. It is well adapted to narrow 
streets. In selecting specimens for planting, care should 
be taken to obtain the tree in its true type, Tilia vulgaris. 
The large-leaved European Linden, Tilia platyphylla , is 
less desirable and invites serious damage from the red 
spider. Tilia Argentea is also good. 

Sycamore. —One of the best of native trees is the 
Sycamore or Buttonball. This tree is tall and stately, 
with broad, open top, growing to large size and adapted 






54 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


to wide streets. Although frequently severely pruned, 
its appearance is not permanently injured thereby. The soil 

for the Sycamore should be 
rich and moist. Properly 
placed it grows very rapidly 
and is well adapted to the 
conditions imposed by city 
environment. It suffers 
much from a disfiguring leaf 
and twig blight, especially 
in early spring, and in New 
York and New England it is 
especially subject to sun¬ 
burn, frost crack and winter killing. 

London Plane. —A relative of the American Syc¬ 
amore is the London Plane—usually listed by nursery¬ 
men as Oriental Plane. It is supposed to be a natural 
hybrid between our Sycamore and the true Oriental Plane. 
This is more symmetrical and compact than the Sycamore, 
and in many cities it is more used than any other tree, 
because of its beauty and the readiness with which it 
adapts itself to the condi¬ 
tions of city environment. 

The tree has the stateliness 
characteristic of the Ameri¬ 
can Sycamore and a finely 
formed top of much grace 
and dignity, with perfect 
symmetry as one of its most 
striking and pleasing points 
of attractiveness. In com¬ 
mon with the Sycamore, it 
may be pruned vigorously with a minimum of damage, 
and this is a factor in its selection for narrow thorough- 










SELECTION OF TREES FOR PLANTING 55 

fares. It is one of the most rapid growers among the 
desirable trees, and, unlike other trees which develop 
rapidly, it has the advantage of long life. Freedom from 
serious disease and insect attacks are strong points in its 
favor. It is more regular in form than the Sycamore, but 
it is also subject to blight and in New York and New 
England to sun-scald, frost crack and winter killing. 

Oriental Plane. —This is 
also a large, handsome tree 
much used abroad. Paris 
holds the Plane as one of 
its favorites and not less than 
thirty per cent, of the trees 
of the French capital are of 
this variety. It is scarce in 
this country, although it is 
listed by nurserymen. The 
tree almost universally 
planted under this name in this country is the London 
Plane. It would add variety to our planting if available. 

California Sycamore.— 
The California Sycamore is a 
native of the Pacific Coast 
and is well adapted to culture 
under those conditions. It 
is better than the American 
Sycamore for the West. 

Tulip Tree. —-The great 
size of the Tulip tree, some¬ 
times called the Tulip Pop¬ 
lar and the Yellow Poplar, 
makes it especially suited for planting on wide thorough¬ 
fares where the space calls for trees of generous propor¬ 
tions. The splendor of its tulip-like blossoms gives it wide 











56 TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 

popularity. These flowers are a blend of green and 
yellow, touched with orange, and their brilliance is ample 
reward for the painstaking care required in successful 

transplanting. The tree is 
of symmetrical form with 
comparatively narrow top, 
and though its wood is rather 
brittle, its foliage is grace¬ 
ful and extremely pleasing 
to the eye. It requires 
deep, rich soil and plenty 
of moisture. It should 
be transplanted only in 
early spring. 

Sweet Gum. —The Sweet Gum has many points to 
recommend it for street planting where it is hardy, and it 
may well be regarded as one of the most desirable trees 
for this purpose east of the Appalachian Mountains from 
New Jersey southward. Its narrow and well-shaped top, 
symmetrical growth and graceful, star-shaped leaves, 
give it an especial beauty during the season of green 
foliage. With autumn the 
green changes with kaleido¬ 
scopic effect into red and 
yellow, with touches of 
brown and purple, lending 
unusual splendor to the 
street lined with these trees. 

In its winter dress of spiked 
balls, the Sweet Gum lacks 
the bareness of other trees 
and thus carries its orna¬ 
mental effect throughout the changing seasons of the 
year. The soil for this tree should be rich and moist, 











SELECTION OF TREES FOR PLANTING 57 

although its vigor enables it to adapt itself to less favor¬ 
able conditions. It is difficult to transplant near the 
limits of its successful cultivation. In regions where the 
ground freezes in the winter it would best be moved only 
in very early spring. Its roots are particularly tender 
and susceptible to drying out, like Magnolias and the 
Tulip tree. Where practicable, it may be moved with a 
ball of earth; but as it does especially well on light soils 
near the coast, this is fre¬ 
quently impracticable and 
unnecessary. 

White Ash. —Though not 
so much used as some other 
trees, the White Ash has fine 
possibilities as a street shade 
tree. Its comparatively light 
foliage makes it especially 
desirable for streets, as the 
open crown permits the pas¬ 
sage of sunlight and free circulation of air. The tree de¬ 
velops a round, graceful top and it grows fairly rapidly. 
Rich soil and moisture are required, but under favorable 
conditions it is thrifty and hardy. It is rather subject to 

attacks of oyster shell scale 
and leopard moth. The chief 
drawback is its short sea¬ 
son of foliage, being similar 
to the American Elm in 
this respect. 

Green Ash. —Though of 
smaller growth than the 
White Ash, the Green Ash is 
much used in western cities 
and has a distinct place in 













TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


58 

the tree planting program of any community. It is even 
more hardy than the White Ash and makes a good species 
for narrow streets where dense shade is not wanted. 

Magnolia. —A favorite tree in the South is the Great 
Flowered or Evergreen Magnolia. Its broad, elliptical 
leaves are evergreen, and to the deep green lustrous 

beauty of these is added the 
splendor of the creamy white 
blossoms, which grow in 
tropical profusion. The tree 
is one of the most superb 
growths to be found in Amer¬ 
ica and is adapted for street 
planting where an evergreen 
is suitable. It is hardy from 
Washington to Saint Louis 
southward and in California 
and the western parts of Oregon and Washington. The 
soil should be rich. 

Palmetto. —The Palmetto is one of the palms native 
from South Carolina southward, where it can be used 
as a street tree, as also in southern Texas and southern 
California. Its massive, spreading leaves give it a richness 
comparable only with Palms. 

Camphor Tree. —The Camphor tree thrives through 
most of Florida and southern California, succeeding where 
the orange will grow. It is much used for its shade in 
these regions. The tree is an evergreen with shiny leaves 
and does not demand rich soil. 

Norway Maple. —Although it has many good qual¬ 
ities to commend it, the Norway Maple is too dense 
in foliage to be desirable for street planting. Also it is 
naturally a low-headed tree and when the attempt is made 
to get the branches high, much of the beauty of the tree 




SELECTION OF TREES FOR PLANTING 59 

is destroyed. It is one of the handsomest for open lawns, 
and especially when grown with the lower limbs resting 
on the ground. It is hardy and bears transplanting ad¬ 
mirably. It has a long sea¬ 
son of foliage, extending 
from early spring to late 
autumn, giving beauty to a 
street when other Maples 
are bare. It is round-headed 
and symmetrical and readily 
controlled by pruning, so 
that if thoroughly and con¬ 
sistently thinned it can be 
maintained as an attractive 
tree for street purposes. Its natural outline is usually good. 
Its growth is fairly rapid and it adapts itself to almost any 
soil and environment, is not subject to serious diseases and 
suffers less than most species from insect attack. Its worst 
enemies are the tussock moth and the leopard moth, but 
these usually do not cause great damage. Plant lice attack 

it at times but it is seldom 
that the tree requires spray¬ 
ing for these. It is more re¬ 
sistant than the other 
Maples to illuminating gas 
in the soil. 

Red Maple. —One of the 
recommendations for the 
Red Maple is its all-the- 
year-round beauty. Even 
winter does not rob it of its 
attractiveness, for when bare of leaves, its red twigs and 
branches weave a delicate tracery against sky and building, 
which contributes a grace and charm much to be desired. 








6o 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


The tree starts to blossom at the first hint of early spring 
and its small red flowers, followed soon by red fruits, are 
a delight to the eye after the winter’s cold. Throughout 
the summer there is pleasing contrast of bright green leaves 
with the red stems on which they grow, while autumn 
brings a brilliant scarlet tinge which may well be considered 
the crowning glory of the year. It is sturdy and is proof 
against storms. Its oval head and medium size make it an 
excellent tree for narrow streets. It is of slow growth in 
its early stages, but when it is firmly rooted, its develop¬ 
ment becomes much more rapid. It thrives best in moist 
soil. Like the Norway Maple it is subject to few diseases 
and insects. It drops its foliage very early in the autumn 
and does not thrive under city conditions; but is excellent 
in the suburbs and near the ocean. 

Sugar Maple. —In gen¬ 
eral appearance this tree is 
much like the Norway 
Maple, though oval-headed 
instead of round-headed and 
less dense. In streets of con¬ 
siderable width, with ample 
parking, the tree is well 
worth planting, but in spite 
of a certain hardiness it lacks 
the power of the Norway 
Maple to overcome the handicap of paved streets and con¬ 
gested surroundings. This tree lacks adaptability to soil 
conditions and requires much moisture, therefore is best 
used only under suburban conditions. Where the proper 
conditions exist, however, it is extremely attractive, be¬ 
cause of its erect growth and symmetrical form. The 
autumn coloring of the foliage is particularly fine, with its 
riot of red, yellow and orange, though it drops its leaves 




SELECTION OF TREES FOR PLANTING 61 


early in the autumn. During the winter the tree has a 
beauty and grace similar to that of the Red Maple. It may 
be pruned into a low, spreading crown. It is more sus¬ 
ceptible to insect attacks than the Norway and Red Maples 
and suffers from borers, scale and leopard moths. 

Big Leaf Maple. —The Big Leaf Maple is a strikingly 
handsome native of Oregon, Washington and California, 
with normal height ranging 
from thirty to sixty feet, 
and under the best condi¬ 
tions reaching ninety feet. It 
is much used as a shade tree 
in the Pacific Coast states. 

This species requires deep, 
rich soil, but thrives from 
the Sierra Nevada Moun¬ 
tains to the Coast, and is one 
of the best for that country. 

Silver Maple. —As in the case of the Carolina Pop¬ 
lar, the Silver Maple has been much planted because 

of its rapid growth. This 
tree is also proof against 
many of the hardships of 
city life, but it is undesir¬ 
able in most of the country 
because of its early loss of 
strength and resultant de¬ 
cay and the damage to pave¬ 
ments caused by its bulging 
surface roots. The tree lit¬ 
ters the street through the 
breaking and dropping of its brittle branches, and heavy 
storms often break off large limbs. When sleet storms 
occur, this tree is usually the first to be damaged. Damage 








62 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


from insects is another fruitful source of dissatisfaction 
with this species. Its use should not be recommended 
in regions more favorable for tree growth, but from the 
Missouri River westward there are many places where its 
use is warranted. 

Ash-Leaved Maple (Box Elder). —Of rapid growth 
and thriving even against adverse conditions, this tree 

is used where other trees 
will fail. While short-lived, 
with a tendency to heave 
and crack sidewalks and 
pavements, and scragglyon 
top, it is most desirable for 
planting under conditions 
unfavorable to other trees, 
and it has its distinct place 
in city shade tree develop¬ 
ment in the Western states. 
It should not be planted where other trees will thrive. 

Lombardy Poplar. —-The stateliness of tall growth 
is the distinguishing characteristic of the Lombardy 
Poplar, the only member of 
the Poplar family which is 
eligible for street planting 
except west of the iooth 
meridian. Its erect trunk 
and narrow form, suggest¬ 
ing the spire of a lofty cathe¬ 
dral, lend themselves well to 
the dignified beautification 
of a narrow street, although 
little shade is produced. It 
is frequently disfigured by Poplar canker disease. The tree 
grows rapidly and its life is comparatively short. 

















SELECTION OF TREES FOR PLANTING 63 

Carolina Poplar. —Choice of the Carolina Poplar in 
the eastern states is chiefly influenced by its rapid 
growth, and this very rapidity of development carries with 
it one of the factors which make the choice unwise. Its 
rank growth involves short life, and it is necessary to 
remove this tree at about 
the time more slowly grow¬ 
ing species would be coming 
into their full usefulness and 
beauty. The Carolina Pop¬ 
lar, like certain other trees, 
litters the street with falling 
flowers, seeds and leaves. 

After a few years of growth 
under humid conditions, its 
wood becomes brittle to 
such an extent as to cause the breaking of limbs and 
branches, adding another source of litter. The persistent 
and widespreading roots of the trees penetrate sewers 
and drain pipes and are a frequent nuisance in this 
respect; while the main roots are so near the surface as to 
cause cracking of sidewalks and derangement of curbing. 
The only excusable location for the Carolina Poplar is 
the congested business street, where it is to be kept severely 
pruned into formal shape and small size, or the western 
half of the country. In congested streets the Ginkgo is 
better. Real estate operators have been liberal users of 
the Carolina Poplar in suburban residential allotments 
because of their cheapness and ease of culture, but the 
planting of the tree for this purpose is shortsighted and 
adds no permanent value to property. In the drier 
regions of the west, where but few trees thrive, it can be 
used to advantage, and under these conditions its most 
serious defects in regions more favorable to plant growth 
are overcome by the adverse conditions. 











6 4 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


Beech. —In spite of its beauty and vigor, the Beech is 
not a good tree for street planting because of the difficulty 
of transplanting, its failure to thrive under the trying 
conditions to which street trees are subject both below 
and above ground, and the density of its foliage, which 
produces too heavy shade for street planting. It is, 
however, quite desirable for lawn and park planting. 
(See Chapter vm.) 

Pecan. —A tree adapted for use in the South is the 
Pecan, which adds shade value to its production of nuts. 
The tree is tall and slender, with narrow leaves of grace¬ 
ful type. It requires considerable room and rich soil, and 
is better adapted to suburban streets and country roads 
than to city streets. (See Chapter vm.) 

Mountain Ash. —The Mountain Ash is a beautiful 
and ornamental small tree, with an extreme height 

of thirty feet and with spread 
of top ranging from eight to 
fifteen feet. It has slender 
branches which grow up¬ 
ward, and thin foliage which 
produces moderate shade. 
In May or June it is covered 
with white flowers, followed 
by large clusters of orange 
red berries in autumn. This 
tree thrives best in cool loca¬ 
tions and so is adapted only to the most northern states. 
It is not adapted to general use. 

Horse Chestnut. —The Horse Chestnut is a tree 
with arguments for and against its use in street planting. 
Its springtime beauty is one of the finest things any shade 
tree has to offer, by virtue of the magnificent display of 
white flowers surmounting the large dark compound 





SELECTION OF TREES FOR PLANTING 65 


leaves over the whole of the 
oval top. This floral rich¬ 
ness has caused the tree to 
be widely used in the streets 
of Paris, where the Horse 
Chestnut eloquently ex¬ 
presses the French love of 
beauty. The tree does not 
require very rich soil and is 
of fairly rapid growth. On 
the other hand its leaves 
drop off during the summer, due largely to a fungus 
trouble, leaving the tree bare during the autumn months, 
while the dropping of buds, flowers and nuts in the vary¬ 
ing seasons results in much street litter. The disease that 
causes this dropping of the leaves can be largely con¬ 
trolled by spraying. The tree suffers much from insect 
and fungus attacks, as well as from boys trying to secure 
the non-edible nuts; and while its attractiveness is be¬ 
yond question, this charm is fleeting, and the tree does 
not commend itself to general use in street planting. It is 
more at home on lawns and in parks or other open spaces. 

Black Locust. —The Black Locust has many fine 
qualities for narrow streets, but it is so subject to attacks 
and serious injury from boring insects that its use is not to 
be advised in the east. It is one of the best in the western 
half of the country. 

The Conifers. —While highly ornamental for lawns 
and parks, or other open places, the Pines and kindred 
trees, classified as Conifers, have no place in street plant¬ 
ing. The mere fact that they are evergreens is enough 
to bar them from this usage. Their winter shade is unde¬ 
sirable and in addition to this, they do not yield readily to 
pruning. Besides which, the normal shape of many of 
5 




66 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


them is with branches resting on the ground, and the 
removal of these destroys the beauty of the tree. More¬ 
over, they will not withstand the soot and dust and sul¬ 
phur fumes prevalent in a city. 

Hackberry. —Because of its ability to thrive in 
poor soil and in varying cli¬ 
mates, the Hackberry has 
staunch friends among the 
planters of street shade 
trees, especially in the south. 
It is valuable in the western 
half of the country, but in 
the east it is rather ragged. 
In appearance, it is much 
like the Elm, although smal¬ 
ler and more erect. The tree 
is affected in someplaces bya disease called Witches’Broom. 

Ailanthus or Tree of Heaven. —The chief recommen¬ 
dation for this tree for street planting is that it will 
thrive where others would die. The poorest soil and 
the most forbidding environment seem to offer no dis¬ 
couragement to it. Its growth is very rapid and, in its 
younger years, it has attractive form, which it maintains 
with advancing age if not 
mutilated by accident or 
severe pruning. It is useful 
where other trees would not 
grow, especially in the heart 
of cities, and for this reason 
should have its place among 
trees to be considered for 
congested areas. The foliage 
is rich and heavy and prod¬ 
uces good shade. Because 











SELECTION OF TREES FOR PLANTING 67 

of a heavy and disagreeable odor emitted by the staminate 
trees, only the pistillate form should be used. These may 
be readily secured by grafting from proper trees or by 
growing them from cuttings. The city of Paris uses the 
Ailanthus freely in street planting. 

Honey Locust —The soft, delicate foliage of the 
Honey Locust gives this tree an attractiveness which en¬ 
titles it to a claim on the 
interest of tree planters. The 
foliage is light and open and 
produces the moderate 
shade desirable for narrow 
streets. Its flowers are fra¬ 
grant and rich in honey, and 
the thorns on the branches 
add to its picturesque effect. 

The tree is of hardy and 
fairly rapid growth, and not 
exacting as to conditions of soil and environment, standing 
pruning well. It is particularly useful because it thrives 
in the dry regions of the west. In some sections the 
thorns are considered an objection, and a thornless form 
is sometimes obtainable. 

Pepper Tree.—The California Pepper tree is much 
used in southern California. It is a moderate-sized, 
broad-headed tree with fine foliage, which gives it a light, 
airy appearance. During the fall and winter it is covered 
with scarlet berries which in contrast with the persistent 
foliage produce a pleasing effect. 






CHAPTER V. 

THE PLACING OF SHADE TREES 

S TREET planting of shade trees must adapt itself to con¬ 
ditions. Appearance and the opportunity for proper 
growth are the determining factors in successful planting, 
and the community which pays closest attention to these 
points will find itself the town or city beautiful in the 
full meaning of the phrase. To ignore them will cause 
coming generations to wonder why so little heed was paid 
to the simplest rules of tree planting. Proper location 
with regard to the general appearance of the street or 
road is as important as good conditions for growth. 
On formal roads and city streets uniformity in species, size 
and shape and regularity of arrangement are essential. 
On country roads naturalistic planting is usually best. 
Haphazard selection and placing should be avoided, for 
with it comes a mixture that is usually undesirable and 
sometimes fantastic—a hodgepodge of trees which defeats 
the efforts at beauty and attractiveness. 

Tree location covers a wide range of possibilities. 
The most restricted and least frequent way is growing 
them in large tubs or boxes. Between this and the 
informality of country roads or the formal planting of wide 
parkways or boulevards are many possibilities, and careful 
study of these will do much to aid in making an appro¬ 
priate selection for any location. 

Plans for the arrangement of trees along a street or 
roadway may be divided into six general classes, suited to 
various conditions. 

(i) The Two-row Type of Sidewalk Planting. —A 

row of trees along each side of the street is so natural and 
68 



GINKGO 


m*: 











THE PLACING OF SHADE TREES 



Diagram f or tree planting on narrow Avenue. 

planted alternately. 


Trees 45 feet apart and 


69 

so prevalent that it may be described as the normal type 
of street planting. It gives the ideal effect for which 
street shade trees have been utilized—a thoroughfare 
lined with welcome shade and graceful foliage. In most 
streets this arrangement affords the acme of decorative 
effect and 
comfort. The 
usual place 
for these is 
between curb 
and side¬ 
walk, al¬ 
though on 

narrow streets the sidewalk is sometimes next to the curb and 
the trees are back of it. A parking strip, separating walk 
from curb with a ribbon of grass, adds materially to the 
beauty of the street, serves to help protect pedestrians from 
the dust and mud of street traffic, and affords the neces¬ 
sary area for trees and their root development. It is a nar¬ 
row street that cannot spare at least 4 feet on each side for 

a parking strip of this char¬ 
acter, with its tree-planting 
possibilities. The best prac¬ 
tice adopts 4 feet as a mini¬ 
mum width for the strip; 
under no circumstances 
should a tree be planted 
nearer the curb than 2 feet 
and, where space permits, 
this should be increased. A 
residence street width of 50 
feet between the building 

Growing trees on busy thoroughfares. Types HneS SUggeStS a TOadwaV of 
which tolerate severe pruning are planted be- 00 J 

tweenjidewaik and curb or in rich earth 3 to no t over 24 feet, sidewalks 



















70 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


of 4 feet each, strips of 5 feet between sidewalk and curb, 
and an inner strip of 4 feet between sidewalk and building 
line. On a 60 foot street with 26 foot roadway, there is room 
for 5 foot sidewalks, 6 foot outer strips and 6 foot inner 
strips. The 30 foot roadway of an 80 foot street may 
be flanked on either side by a parking strip of 10 feet, 
sidewalk of 7 feet width and inner strip of 8 feet; while a 
width of 100 feet affords room for a row of trees along 
either curb, with generous inner and outer parking strips, 
and a central parkway of 20 feet. 

Where through traffic has developed on narrow streets 
or there are car tracks, then a larger proportion must be 
devoted to the traffic way than indicated above, a street 
50 feet wide having a roadway possibly 30 feet wide, 
parking strips of 4 feet, sidewalks of 6 feet; or if the traffic 
would warrant, then a sidewalk of 4 feet and an inner 
parking strip of 2 feet. On a 60 foot street with 30 
foot roadway, there is room for 5 foot sidewalks, 6 
foot outer strips and 4 foot inner strips. The 40 
foot roadway of an 80 foot main traffic street may be 
flanked on either side by parking strip of 8 feet, sidewalk 
of similar width and inner strip of 4 feet; while a width 
of 100 feet affords room for two 20 foot roadways, a 
row of trees along either curb, with 8 foot inner and 
6 foot outer parking strips, a sidewalk 6 feet and a central 
parkway of 20 feet. 

(2) Two rows on each side of the street. —This is an 
extension of Plan 1, for use on streets in which additional 
space is available. By placing a line of trees along the 
curb, and a second line between the sidewalk and the 
property line, the volume of shade and the decorative 
effect are increased; but the plan has its disadvantages in 
that overcrowding is apt to be the result unless the street 
is wide, the buildings are set well back and the trees are 


BASSWOOD OR AMERICAN LINDEN 























































































































































































































































THE PLACING OF SHADE TREES 


7i 


planted at liberal distances apart. Because of better soil 
and light conditions, one row usually develops more rapidly 
and more vigorously than the other, producing a ragged 
and uneven effect. The plan is not recommended unless 
there is the ideal condition of abundant space. By alter¬ 
nating the trees, that is, putting them first on the outside of 
the sidewalk and then ontheinside,theeffectof adoublerow 
may be produced in a narrower space than where all 4 trees 
are placed in a straight row across the street. See diagram. 


Turf 

* Tree 


Tree 

* 



Sidewalk 





* Tree 


Tree * Turf 




Roadway 

Turf 

* Tree 


Tree 

* 


Sidewalk 

* Tree Turf 


* Tree 





(3) With Center and Side Planting— This also is 
an extension of Plan 1. It calls for one or two rows of trees 
down the center of the street, in addition to a row on each 
side. This type of planting is used on streets of consider¬ 
able width which have no interfering car tracks. The 
plan involves a grass-grown or gravel covered parking 
strip in the center of the street, and the effect is extremely 
attractive. The trees in this parking strip may be in single 
or double line. On Pennsylvania Avenue southeast, and 
New York Avenue northwest, of the United States 
Capital, as well as streets in Jacksonville, Florida, New 
Orleans, Louisiana, Augusta, Georgia, and many other 
cities, the trees are in double line, separated by double 
street car tracks. This particular arrangement naturally 
calls for a great deal of space. Because of their width of 
150 feet or more, these streets can accommodate the double 












72 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


center row most satisfactorily. Including tree strips the 
sidewalks on Pennsylvania Avenue are 20 feet wide, 
and each of the two roadways 38 feet, leaving 44 feet 
for the parking strip. 

With streets less than 150 feet wide, it is desirable to 
use small trees, shrubs or evergreen bushes, instead of 
trees, for the center planting. Fine park effects may be 
obtained with these. 

(4) The Center Strip.—For narrow streets without 
car tracks, where the buildings restrict the admission of 
light, and traffic needs suggest a double roadway, a single 
row of trees in the center of the driveway may be advis¬ 
able. An abundant supply of light and sunshine is 
essential to the best development of trees. To place trees 
along the curb of a street where sunshine is in scant sup¬ 
ply robs the trees of their chance for proper growth. In 
general terms, trees cannot be at their best unless their 
distance from the building line is at least equal to half 
the height of the buildings. In some streets this cannot be 
achieved with trees along the side of the roadway, and the 
center strip offers the solution. 

It may sound contradictory, but the single strip of 
trees in the center is used for broad thoroughfares as 
well as for those which are too narrow for sidewalk 
plantings. A street may be 100 feet in width and yet 
have sidewalks too narrow for trees; so narrow that to 
place trees along the curb would result in shutting off 
light and air from the buildings. By placing the trees 
in a central row, the decorative and shade-giving qualities 
are obtained, and the trees have the chance for vigorous 
growth which would be lacking if they were placed on the 
narrow sidewalks. Two central rows, of course, are better 
than one and should be planted where space and traffic 
conditions permit. 


RED OAK 




























































. 










































































‘ 





THE PLACING OF SHADE TREES 


73 


(5) The Potted Type. —This is for streets where brick 
or stone paving monopolizes the space and makes natural 
tree growth and development impossible. It is extremely 
formal, and can be used for narrow streets lined with 
handsome buildings, or for a paved plaza or thoroughfare 
largely devoted to vehicular traffic, as in the case of the 
Park Avenue approach to the Grand Central Terminal in 
New York; sidewalks and street pavements cover all 
surface, leaving no place in which the usual street trees 
would have a chance to live. By planting small trees in 
tubs or boxes and placing these containers on the sidewalk 
or in the center of the driveway, these man-made obstacles 
may be overcome. They are similarly used in some of the 
streets of Paris, notably the Rue de Rivoli. The effect 
may be strikingly pleasing and highly desirable when 
ordinary tree planting is not possible, due to neglect to 
provide proper conditions in the original development, or 
to the necessity of meeting exceptional features in design. 
It is possible by this means to use different trees for 
succeeding seasons; but, on the other hand, much greater 
care is required to maintain them than to maintain trees 
planted in openings in the paving, and thus the expense 
is very greatly increased. 

(6) The Informal Type. —On country roads, especially 
in a rolling or a hilly country, or on secondary highways, the 
formality of trees in straight lines, at regular distances 
apart, and of uniform size and appearance is inappropriate, 
as well as being tiresome to those who may find it neces¬ 
sary to travel along such roads. In contrast to such 
arrangement, trees of many species may be scattered at 
irregular intervals along the roadside, but selected and 
arranged in such manner as to accentuate the natural 
beauties of the country through which the road passes. 
Such informal planting needs equally as much thought 


74 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


and planning as to species and location as does the more 
formal planting of city streets. 

The placing of the rows of trees on a street is depen¬ 
dent on the width of street and the character of its use. 
The spacing of the trees in the rows, however, is dependent 
primarily on the species to be used, as well as on the dis¬ 
tance between rows and the closeness with which buildings 
have approached or are likely to approach the trees. 
Large growing trees should be placed from 60 to 80 feet 
apart, although the practice in many places is to plant 
them as close together as 30 to 35 feet. Smaller trees 
should be planted more closely. When the distance 
between the rows of trees is greater than three-fourths of 
the proper distance between specimens, then the trees may 
properly be planted opposite one another; but when rows 
are closer together than that, then the trees had better 
be staggered, that is, the trees on one side of the street 
should be planted opposite the middle of the space be¬ 
tween the trees on the other side. On narrow residence 
streets, with liberal lawns in front of the houses, large 
trees may sometimes be used by increasing the distance 
between the trees in the row, so that the distance to the 
nearest tree on the other side of the street is as great as 
that to the nearest tree on the same side of the street 
would be, if the trees were planted a normal distance apart. 

To be successful, tree spacing must ignore lot lines 
and lot ownership, the trees being placed at the proper 
distances apart for the effect of the street as a whole, 
irrespective of whether or not a tree comes in front of 
every lot. This sometimes causes dissatisfaction, but it 
is essential to success. If the idea that, tree planting is a 
community function for community benefit, in the same 
way as street paving or sewers, can be impressed on the 
owners in contrast to the idea of individual ownership 


HORSE CHESTNUT. 


































































' 






























































' 

. 























































































THE PLACING OF SHADE TREES 


75 


in the nearby trees, dissatisfaction is less likely to appear. 

The distance between trees often has to be slightly 
modified, in order that they may be properly placed with 
respect to intersecting streets. It is desirable to avoid 
placing trees directly on a corner though they may often 
come within ten feet of a corner without being objection¬ 
able. By slightly crowding or stretching the distance be¬ 
tween the trees in the middle of the block, adjustments 
may often be made that will produce more pleasing 
results at the corners, without materially modifying the 
effect between. 


CHAPTER VI. 

SHADE TREE PLANTING 

P REPARATIONS for planting shade trees begin with 
choosing the actual specimen from nursery stock and 
continue until the digging of the hole into which the tree 
is to be set. Each part of this program calls for the 
exercise of care, but there is no mystery about any 
feature of it. The one thing to be borne in mind is that 
each step is important. Nothing should be neglected and 
nothing left to chance or even to guesswork. Correct 
planting is half the battle. 

In the sense of establishing shade trees in city streets, 
planting necessarily means transplanting. To undertake 
to raise a tree from its beginning is a needless expenditure 
of time and effort. Trees of suitable size may be had of 
nurserymen at slight cost and with a saving of several 
years in the time required for development. It is possible, 
when technical knowledge is at hand, to satisfactorily 
transplant trees taken from the woods, but these are 
less likely to withstand the shock of moving than those 
which have been raised in nurseries, as the nursery trees, 
if well grown, have been replanted or root pruned every 
year or two, and have by this means been forced to form 
a compact root system that is not too large for the limited 
area of street environment. Forest trees, with their 
longer roots and fewer fibrous roots near the trunk, are 
more difficult to transplant and have less certainty of 
living than well selected nursery stock. The pruning of 
the top, undergone by the nursery tree, is also an impor¬ 
tant factor, as this frees the tree from branches for a height 
of several feet and likewise helps to bring about the devel- 

76 





EUROPEAN LINDEN 








SHADE TREE PLANTING 77 

opment of the crown in the way best suited for shade and 
ornament. 

In choosing nursery stock, when the city does not have 
its own nursery, the first consideration is the selection of 
the nursery itself. Strict care must be given to confining 
purchases to one of known reliability and responsibility. 
Trees from other sources are apt to be defective and 
improperly developed and trained. The cost of the 
specimen is of such small significance, that an attempt to 
economize by seeking trees commended by nothing but 
lowness of price, is mistaken thrift, and almost certain to 
prove expensive in the long run. 

The importance of dealing with a nurseryman of high 
repute is obvious. This dealer regards every tree with 
jealous eye because of its value in contributing to his 
prestige as a nurseryman. He is no more willing than the 
customer to have his trees prove defective and unsatis¬ 
factory. In addition, he will give valuable advice in the 
selection of individual specimens and in their planting and 
care. It is to his interest to do all this, and to aid the tree 
planter in every possible way, for every tree successfully 
planted does its share toward stimulating the industry of 
which his nursery is a part. 

Choose a tree that is in healthy condition and as 
nearly as possible perfect in shape. The nurseryman who 
tries to sell a deformed or misshapen tree is a good man 
to avoid in making purchases, for his effort in this direc¬ 
tion may be taken as fairly good evidence that other 
things are wrong with his stock. Be sure to insist on a 
properly trained root system. The trees best suited for 
transplanting into street environment are those in which 
the roots have been pruned into compact form, to fit 
them for life in a ground area restricted by paving, side¬ 
walks, curbs and underground pipe and conduit construe- 


78 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


tion. This requires root systems that are compact and 
vigorous, and as large as can be accommodated by the 
particular site. The greater and more vigorous the 
root system, within small area, the more rapid will be the 
growth and development of the tree in its new home. 

A well developed top is also desirable in the tree to be 
transplanted, but it should not be too large for the roots, 
as this inequality will result in weak growth, and may 
even cause the tree to die soon after removal. 

The stem should be straight and the branches should 
be from 7 to 9 feet from the ground. In size the stem 
should be from 2 to 3 inches in diameter. Trees of 
this size bear transplanting better than those which are 
larger. Successful removal may be given trees even 
12 inches in diameter, but the expense increases very 
materially with the greater size. This increased cost is 
primarily due to the long period of nursery care required 
in bringing it to the larger development, and even more to 
the expense of removal and subsequent care. For general 
street purposes a maximum of 3 inches has been found by 
far the most satisfactory. 

Whenever possible, tree purchases should be made at 
a nursery near the place at which the tree is to be planted, 
as this involves no change of climate, and further, a short 
shipping distance is desirable. The more brief the time in 
transit, the less danger there is of injury to the tree by 
exposure of the roots. It is important to replant a tree 
as promptly as possible after it has been removed from its 
original location. If necessary, however, to make long 
shipment the tree may be fully protected against damage 
by careful handling at the source. This is another 
argument in support of dealing with nurserymen of the 
highest standing, for this type of dealer will be unwilling 
to risk his reputation by careless and inefficient packing 
and shipping. 





SWEET GUM 
















SHADE TREE PLANTING 


79 


In digging a tree for transplanting the entire root 
system should be taken up, with particular attention to 
the small roots, for it is through these fine rootlets that the 
tree secures its nourishment from the soil. The one 
thing most essential is to keep the roots moist during 
the journey. A root that is allowed to dry out loses its 
vitality and becomes worthless. 

Sometimes it is necessary to transplant trees of larger 
diameter than three inches, as in the case of replacing a 
tree where its companions are of considerable size. This 
can be done by digging the specimen with a large ball of 
earth about the roots. This earth serves to hold the 
moisture and also protects the roots from injury in 
handling, but of even more importance it keeps the roots 
in close contact with the soil so that growth can be con¬ 
tinued without the tree having to reestablish its growing 
connection by sending out new rootlets. In many cities 
municipal nurseries are maintained and trees of various 
size are available for replacing those which die. This is 
one of the important functions of a nursery maintained 
by the city, as it is desirable, of course, that the new tree 
should be, as nearly as possible, of uniform size with the 
other trees on the street. A municipal nursery prepares 
these trees for transplanting by a process of checking the 
spread of roots as the trees grow. To accomplish this the 
trees are root pruned at least every two years. In the case 
of the larger trees, a trench is dug around, which results in 
forcing the roots to develop compactly, so that the speci¬ 
men may be planted in the restricted area of street 
surroundings without trimming the roots at the time of 
moving. 

The tree planter’s responsibility begins with the 
arrival of the tree from the nursery, and he should use 
care to see that the precautions taken by the shipper are 


8o 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


WELL DEVELOPED HEAD, 
STRONG LEADER,B 
ES SET AT WIDE, NOT 
CLOSE. AN6LES. 


BEfORE SETTING, TREE 
SHOULD BE PRUNED AT 
POINTS INDICATED BY 
BLACK (JNES; NOT BVCUP- 
ENOS Of BRANCHES 



not nullified by careless methods of handling in the 
process of planting. His chief duty is to see that the 
roots continue well protected against injury and against 
loss of moisture through exposure to sun or wind, that 
the soil is properly prepared and that the simple rules of 

correct planting are 
followed. The first of 
these rules is to have 
the hole ready for the 
tree upon arrival. 
Sometimes this can 
not be done, and in 
such case the tree 
should be “heeled in” 
as soon as it is re¬ 
ceived. The “heeling 
in” process consists 
of merely placing a 
tree or trees in a tem¬ 
porary hole or ditch 
from I Yz to 2 feet in 
depth and with suf¬ 
ficient width to ac¬ 
commodate the roots 
without doubling 
them up. Trees thus 
placed and with the 

OBSERVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS IN PLANTING TOOtS thoroughly and 

closely covered with soil, will retain their vigor for a month 
or more, and be ready for planting when needed. 

The planting hole should be a trifle larger than the root 
area of the tree. This makes it possible to give the roots 
full space without bending them. The hole should be 
about a foot deeper than the roots themselves, and since 


STAKE IN.* 10 FT. 
DRIVEN 2FT. IH GROUND 
AND SECURED WITH 
RUBBER COVERED WIRE, 
OR WITH CANVASS 


OPENING IN SIDEWALK 
*T LEAST 6 S4.FT. t 
KEEP TOP SOIL 
■PLLVEElZiP- 



BA$E OF TEMPORARY 
CROWN 7 FEET 
ABOVE PAVEMENT. 


PRESERVE FIBROUS 
ROOTSi CUT OFF 
SMOOTHLY EVERY 
BR'OKEN BOOT. 


DIG HOLE 18 IN. Of* MORE 

DEEP; THEN FILL TO 
LOWER ROOT LEVEL WITH 
MIXTURE Of A4 0000 SOIL 
AND^4 ROTTED MANURE. 


QICH EAPTH 
FIRMLY ABOUT ROOTS] 

















































WILLOW, 












































- 































































































SHADE TREE PLANTING 


81 


the depth of planting should be as nearly as possible the 
same as the depth to which the tree grew in the nursery, 
a layer of soil, rich in plant food, should be placed at the 
bottom of the hole. This regulates the depth of planting 
and gives a fine, mellow soil condition which is important 
to growth. The depth of planting may be easily deter¬ 
mined by noting the mark of the soil around the trunk or 
stem, indicating the surface line before moving. 

In planting along city streets it is often necessary to 
provide richer soil than that which is at hand. Earth 
with good growing qualities may be procured in the 
vicinity of any city or town and the slight additional 
trouble involved in this step will be more than repaid by 
the results. City soil is seldom of a character that en¬ 
courages vegetation. The ideal soil is a light sandy loam, 
smooth in texture and so porous as to encourage the 
passage of air and moisture for feeding the roots. Clay 
soil packs tightly and prevents this free circulation, while 
too much sand is undesirable in that it does not hold 
moisture. The most satisfactory soil carries about 
seven-tenths sand, two-tenths clay and one-tenth decayed 
vegetable matter or thoroughly rotted manure. Fresh 
manure should never be used. A compost heap furnishes 
good material in the form of decayed manure mixed with 
fine soil. This heap should be prepared a year in advance, 
and the alternate layers of earth and manure spaded and 
turned occasionally to effect thorough mixing. In provid¬ 
ing new soil the amount required will be from 2 to 3 
cubic yards, to give the roots ample nourishment. 

Careful attention should be given to pruning before 
planting. This applies to roots which may have suffered 
injury in the process of digging or in moving, and it also 
applies, in a very important measure, to the removal of 
a considerable portion of the tree’s top. (See Chap, xv) 
6 


82 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


Cloudy days are best for planting. Strong sunlight 
or wind is harmful in that it causes rapid drying out of the 
roots. The tree should be placed without delay in the 
waiting hole prepared with its own earth or with the 
earth and compost brought from elsewhere. 

The tree should be set into the hole with roots spread¬ 
ing naturally, and not crossed nor folded. If any roots 
are broken or seriously damaged, they should be cut off 
with a clean cut to provide a good surface from which new 
roots may start. In filling the hole, finely pulverized 
earth should be worked in by hand or a small ramming 
stick, so that it completely occupies all the space around 
the roots and under them. Enough pressure should be 
applied in this process to cause the earth to surround the 
roots firmly and compactly. To this end it is essential to 
use only moderately moist earth. Wet earth is injurious, 
as it will pack and become brick-like on drying and so 
impenetrable to the young rootlets, unless it is extremely 
sandy. Firmly embedded roots are necessary to enable 
the tree to hold its position and not work loose. The 
filling and compacting should be continued to a point 
2 or 3 inches below the level of the ground. If water¬ 
ing is done, it should be at this point, and it should 
be done so thoroughly that the moisture will reach the 
entire root system. In humid regions it is not usual to 
water at transplanting, if deciduous trees not over 4 or 5 
inches in diameter are transplanted while dormant. 
In time of drouth in dry countries, for large or evergreen 
trees, or for trees that have started to push their foliage, 
watering is frequently necessary. Tamping or compact¬ 
ing of the soil after wetting will be injurious. As a final 
step in planting, a layer of pulverized earth should 
be placed over the compacted or wet soil and left 
loose, to facilitate air and water circulation. When trees 



CATALPA 




























































I V 











* 














































SHADE TREE PLANTING 


83 


are received in bad condition or for other special reason, 
they are sometimes planted by puddling, that is, the tree 
is placed in the hole, some loose earth is thrown in about 
the roots, the hole is partially filled with water and more 
earth is thrown in the water. The tree is planted by moving 
it up and down in this mud until there is no question but 
the roots are all surrounded by it, and then more soil is 
shoveled in, until the mud is crowded over the rim of the 
hole. In this method there must be absolutely no com¬ 
pacting of the soil by tamping of any sort or the result 
will be a brick in which the tree cannot grow. This does 
not apply to real sandy soil. It is important, of course, 
that the tree should be in an upright position. It is desir¬ 
able that a stake be driven into the earth alongside the 
tree, and tied to it to hold the tree from swaying, until 
its roots have taken firm hold. 

It must be borne in mind that the mere digging of a 
hole is not all that is involved in preparing the tree’s new 
home. The location of this hole is as important as the 
selection of the tree itself. If the planting is in a grass 
strip, the problem of location is simplified, as it then be¬ 
comes merely a matter of dividing the space between 
sidewalk and curb in such way &s to best accommodate 
roots. If traffic conditions and limitations of space 
require that the sidewalk extend all the way to the curb, 
it becomes necessary to provide a free area for the tree. 
Twelve square feet should be taken as a minimum for the 
unpaved area. In some cities the smallest area permissi¬ 
ble is prescribed by ordinance or regulation. The city 
of Washington recognizes the importance of this free space 
by providing that the openings shall be 3 by 8 feet in size, 
thus establishing 24 square feet as the official requirement. 
Without adequate opening, the tree will be choked to 
death by the solid sidewalk, which permits the entry of 
neither air nor moisture. 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


In scjme streets the entire sidewalk surface is needed 
for traffic, and this makes it impossible to sacrifice the 
space that is required. In a case of this kind, a sidewalk 
grating may be employed, permitting pedestrians to use 
the sidewalk up to the very base of the tree and still 
providing breathing room for the tree itself. This grating 
is level with the surface of the sidewalk, and the ground 
underneath slopes away from the tree, forming a pit or 
basin, which collects water, and is therefore useful in 
supplying moisture to the roots. The grating is so set 
as to be easily removed for cleaning the space underneath. 
In dense traffic the grating is essential, but where it is 
possible to provide a space free from paving, without the 
use of the grating, this should be done in the interest of 
the tree’s best development. 

Irrigation and drainage are essential to the life of the 
tree. The ideal means of providing water is by having the 
tree so placed that the soil surrounding the hoots may be 
loosened from time to time, in order that surface watering 
may penetrate the earth and reach the roots in abundant 
supply. This is possible where trees are planted in space 
free from paving, such as a strip of gravel or grass be¬ 
tween sidewalk and curb. If a grating is used, it should 
be taken up occasionally and the soil underneath made 
loose by cultivating. One of the most important features 
of the grating is that it allows this cultivation, in addition 
to preventing the traffic from packing the surface, as would 
occur if foot-traffic were allowed to use the space immedi¬ 
ately surrounding a tree without the protection afforded 
by the grating. 

If the natural drainage fails to prevent water from 
collecting at the roots, artificial drainage may be supplied 
by using tile drains, 3 or 4 feet below the surface, 
to carry surplus water to the nearest sewer. This is 



SYCAMORE 

















































































% 





SHADE TREE PLANTING 


85 


necessary only in the case of solid soil, which holds water 
and keeps the roots in constant state of excess moisture. 
Roots kept too moist are deprived of air, and this is a 
serious handicap which is apt to result in the death of the 
tree. 

Deciduous trees may be planted at any time after the 
leaves begin to drop in the fall, and before growth has 



developed very far in the spring, even when the ground 
is frozen, if the bottom and sides of the hole are not 
frozen and there is available an abundance of unfrozen, 
sufficiently dry earth to place about the roots and nearly 
fill the hole. For best results, however, many experi¬ 
enced planters prefer the spring season, as being the time 
when all vegetation starts growing, although in the eastern 
third of the United States, except the coldest parts, a fall 
planted tree will be a half year ahead of a tree planted at 
a corresponding time in the spring planting season. Careful 
observation has shown that trees planted in the autumn, 











86 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


under trying conditions, make slower progress than trees 
of the same character planted early the following spring. 
In mild climates, this is not a factor, and fall planting is 
followed by good results. Except in climates where the 
ground does not freeze in winter, a few kinds of trees like 
Magnolias, Tulip and Sweet Gum should be transplanted 
only in spring. Evergreens should be planted when the 
ground is warm. It is usually done in late spring or early 
autumn. 

THE FOLLOWING MAP AND TABLES SHOW TREES SUITABLE FOR 
PLANTING IN DIFFERENT AREAS 
The map and tables should be consulted in selecting trees, and determining 
their suitability for different regions. The numbers on the map show regions indi¬ 
cated by similar numbers in the tables. 

KEY TO CHARACTERS IN TABLES 
Numbers I to 32 in tables indicate the regions marked by number on the map. 
S—Trees most desirable for street and roadside planting in regions numbered, 
s—Trees less desirable but will grow. 

R—Trees suited for country roads but not for city streets, 
a—Trees suited only for southern parts of regions numbered, 
b—Trees which require watering for a few years, 
c—Trees worth trying although their adaptability is uncertain, 
d—Trees suited only to northern part of region numbered, 
n—Trees that are undesirable. 













TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


88 


CN 




CO 












CO 







co 

COCO 

s 

s 


CO 

CO 







CO 



o 

to 


CO 

co 

cU 

coco 

co co 


CO 

to CO 







CO 



Ov 

CN 


CO 

CO 


coco 

coco CO 


CO 

to CO 


CO 



coco 

CO 

CO 

a 

CO 

00 

CN 


CO 

CO 



coco 


co 

(A 


CO 



coco 

CO 

CO 

G 

CO 

CN 


CO 

CO 



coco 


CO 

C/J 


CO 

CO 

C/3 

coco 

CO 


G 

CO 

vO 

CN 


CO 

CO 



40 











G 

CO 

CN 


CO 

CO 



coco 


CO 

C/3 


CO 

CO 

C/3 

CO 

CO 


G 

CO 

CN 


CO 

CO 



coco 


co 

CO 


CO 

CO 

C/3 

coco 

CO 


G 

CO 

ro 

CN 


CO 

CO 



co 


CO 

CO 


CO 



coco 

CO 


G 

CO 

CN 

CN 


CO 

CO 



CO 


CO 

CO 


CO 


C/3 

coco 

CO 


G 

CO 

CN 


CO 

CO 



CO 


CO 

CO 


CO 



coco 

CO 


G 

CO 

O 

CN 


CO 

CO 


COCO 

CO 


co 

coco 

p4 

CO 



coco 

CO 


G 

CO 

On 

vH 


CO 

CO 



co 


CO 

co 


CO 



coco 

CO 


G 

CO 

00 


CO 

CO 



CO 


CO 

CO 


CO 



coco 

co 


G 

CO 

H 


co 

CO 


coco 

43 



CO 






CO 


CO 


NO 


CO 

CO 



43 



CO 


CO 



CO 

CO 


CO 


lO 


CO 

CO 



43 



CO 


CO 



o 

CO 


CO 


♦H 

1 

CO 

CO 



CO 



CO 


CO 



o 

CO 


CO 


CO 

H 


CO 

CO 



CO 



CO 


CO 



o 

CO 


CO 


CN 

^■4 


CO 

co 



CO 



CO 


CO 



o 

co 


CO 


iH 



CO 


coco 




CO 


CO 




CO 


CO 


o 

r-1 



CO 

CO 

coco 






o 




o 


CO 


On 


co 

CO 



43 



CO 


CO 




CO 


CO 


00 


CO 

co 



43 



CO 






CO 


CO 




CO 

CO 



CO 



CO 





CO 

CO 


CO 


>0 


CO 

coco 



co 



CO 





CO 

co 

CO 

G CO 

CO 

iO 

wtocoto 

CO 

co 

CO 

coco 

43 CO 





CO 






CO 




CO 

co co 



co co 








coco 



Geo CO 

CO 

coco cow 

CO 

s 

s 

co 

coco 

wcoco 

P4C*5p4p4 




CO 

CO 

C/3 

coco 


CO 

GCO CO CO 

CN 


CO 

CO CO 



CO CO CO 



CO 


CO 

CO 

C/3 

coco 

CO 

CO 

GCO CO CO 

^"4 

cS c3 c3 c3 

CO 

CO CO 


coco 

CO CO CO 

rt rt rt 

CO 

CO 


CO 

CO 

C/3 

coco 

CO 

CO 

GCO CO CO 


P T> ’ 
u -tj 
rt 5 
* & 

3 a) 


>C0 


• t-. g 
.OW 


43 

a 

■°K 

cH 

£ 

O 


g* 

.-So 

V-4 rC £ Q 

<D X 

. rH 4J U 

§ bo C *5 
< G 3 
J«WP 



c 

o 

6 

6 

o' 3 * 

>TS 5 

u> 
t to 
<0 to 

Sis 

rt 

« 


+-> 

to 

3 

u 

o 


c 

o 

w 



44 

o 

r 3 

3 


o 

a 

crl 

1*5 













































































































































































SHADE TREE PLANTING 


89 


CO 


CO CO CO CO 


CO CO CO 


CO 


CO 



COCOCO CO 

cocococo CO 


to to CO 

CO 

CO 

CO 




CO w 

COCOCO CO 

COCOCOCOCO CO 


s 

s 

s 



co 

coco 



CO tn 

COCO eft oCOCO CO p-CO 



1/1 1/1 tfr 



CO 

coco 

CO 

Pi 

CO toco “ 

CO aS OCOCOCOCO J- ^ 



to toco 



CO 

coco 

CO 

R 

R 

CO toco 10 

CO oCOCOCO 



to toco 




• coco 

CO 

Pi 

CO toco 

CO OCOCO 



to toco 







CO to CO to 

CO as OCOCOCOCO 



to 10CO 




coco 

CO 

R 

R 

CO toco w 

CO 0 CO CO CO 



to to CO 




coco 


Pi 

CO toco 

CO oCOCOCO 



to to CP 




0 


Pi 

CO to CO 

CO oCOCOCO 



s 

s 

s 




coco 


Pi 

CO toco 

CO oCOCOCO 



to toco 




CO 


Pi 

coco 

CO CO CO 

aj 


to toCO 




coco 



COCO O 

CO CO CO 



c /3 C /3 (/} 




coco 



coco 

co cococo 



to to CO 




CO 




0 

OCOCO CO 


CO CO CO 




0 0 



coco 

0 0 



CO CO CO 




0 0 



coco 

0 0 



CO CO CO 




0 



in 

c 

c 

c 



CO CO CO 




0 



10 

c 

c 

c 



CO CO CO 




o 



1/1 

c 

c 

c 



CO CO CO 




0 



CO 




CO CO CO 




0 0 





OCOCO COCO *0 


CO CO CO 


co 


0 CJ 



CO 

0 



CO CO CO 




0 0 



CO 

0 



CO CO CO 




0 



to 

CO 



CO CO CO 




CO 



CO 

co 



CO CO CO 




CO 

co 



s 

s 

CO CO CO CO CO CO CO CO to CO 

CO 

co co co 

CO 

CO 

0 

co co co 


Pipi 

to CO 

coco 



c/3 c/2 (72 




CO CO CO 


Pi 

to-dco 

s 

s 

s 

s 

COCOCOCO COCO to 

co 

CO CO co 

CO 

CO 


CO CO CO 


Pi Pi 

to CO CO 

CO CO CO 



co CO CO 



co 

CO CO CO 

CO 

Pi Pi 

to coco 

aj COCOCO 

aS aS 

Gj 

in in CO 



CO 

CO CO CO 

CO 

Pi Pi 


o 

6 

- > bo o 
Pi CO CO CO 


e 

o 

c ^ 

- C' 


c/3 

cti 

o< 

CO 

a> d JTJ 


2 &s| 


w'^3 w. o • • Tj c ^ »-< 

&S&53&&&SAE 


.2 
n 

V) o 
a 4 -> 

x 
a>. 

h> 


n 
U 
q g.s 


0) • 1 

coc 

H 4 J 4 ^ 

^26 

*f-H r“* 

co a as 

S** 

"aS 

Ph 


Trti^ U 

“ r5 -u 

9&£ 

ft)2 c 3 

§*. 3 m - 


O 1/) 

e a 

Eb5 2 -S*-*-b H.Hrt 

c S-2 2 ? o* ft 

' 3 ^ o b^ 3 W TJ 

8 3 g -3 3 2 2 8 £ 
k“£ 3 aS oS.S 000 
^OOOfcOOPi 


+> cS H 

oSk 
M S 

Oi 

o 

p< 


<u 
& 
1 CO 


.2 
’2 
o 

aS 

(jfl ft 

.23 

ft) So 

(h { h'0 

2 g « 

§< 3,3 

u 

>. 

CO 


0.2 _ 

-2 

w S.2 

■5 "rt 3 
COW 
rt 
£ 












































































































































CHAPTER VII. 


ROADSIDE PLANTING OF TREES 


D WELLERS in towns and cities have no monopoly 
of the duty to plant shade trees. Rural communities 
also have a responsibility in this respect—a responsibility 
no less urgent than that of people living in centers of pop¬ 
ulation. Shade is necessary on country roads as well as 
on city streets. Man’s gifts from the trees in beauty and 
in health are as valuable to the owner of farming prop¬ 
erty as to him whose residence is on a city thoroughfare. 

Trees are at home in the country. In regions uncrowd¬ 
ed by the habitations of man they have room to attain 
their fullest growth and development, thereby lending 
picturesqueness and charm to the countryside. The rural 
district which is lacking in trees is as desolate as the town 
or city likewise unblessed. It should be a matter of pride 
for the dweller in rural regions to do all he can to prove that 
the city man has none the better of him in appreciation of 
shade trees and in growing them successfully. 

The success of the American farmer in raising the 
crops that feed the nation and a large part of the outer 
world shows where he stands in ability to produce; and, 
as for appreciation of beauty, we have every reason to 
know that this is confined to no class nor environment. 

If the rural dwellers of America have failed to make 
the most of their opportunities in the planting of shade 
trees, it must be granted that the reason is the same that 
exists as to the people in our towns and cities—a lack of 
stimulus. The interest now current in roadside tree 
planting is giving the stimulus that was needed, and there 
is good ground for confidence that the result will be a 

90 


A ROADSIDE LINED WITH LOMBARDY POPLARS. 







jf-H 



































































































. 












































ROADSIDE PLANTING OF TREES 91 

countryside revealing itself in a new glory of shade tree 
riches. 

Roadside planting is one of the most important 
phases of shade tree development. The highways of 
America are the great arteries of the nation. With 
the universal use of the automobile, this is true in a sense 
previously undreamed. The value of the tree-lined 
country thoroughfare to the adjacent property is as 
direct as that of the shaded street in town or city. The 
charm of the trees will attract where the barren roadside 
would repel. There are roads in New Jersey, New York, 
Connecticut and elsewhere, for the enjoyment of which 
tourists will go many miles out of their way, to the in¬ 
creased prosperity of the surrounding neighborhoods. 
Thousands of permanent residents have been attracted 
to Pasadena, San Mateo, and other places in California, 
to some of the famous resorts of Florida and the Carolinas, 
and to summer places in New England, Michigan and 
Wisconsin, by the lure of shade tree splendor. Costly 
homes and extensive improvements have been established 
along the inviting highways in and near these communi¬ 
ties, with the inevitable result that all property values 
have been increased to an amazing extent; and largely 
because the charm of the trees proved irresistible to 
visitors from other places. 

Every community may not be suited for a resort, but 
none can afford to overlook the value of shade trees. The 
highway without trees is merely a means to an end. It 
is used simply because it leads somewhere. The road 
which has its lines of stately trees carries a charm pecul¬ 
iarly its own, and is sought because of its beauty and 
attractiveness. Many communities have already awak¬ 
ened to this truth, and have shown a determination to let 
no other community outdo them in offering the shade 


92 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


tree invitation to the world-at-large to come and enjoy 
the beauties and the restfulness of their highways. Such 
development cannot fail to be attended by an increase 
in property values, and it has an additional value through 
the greater comfort and enjoyment afforded the residents 
of a neighborhood by the conversion of plain and unlovely 
country roads into driveways of impressive charm and 
loveliness. 

The range of varieties for country roads is greater than 
for city streets, as many trees that do not flourish under 
city conditions will attain magnificent growth in the 
better conditions of the country. Points to be considered 
in selecting trees for the country thoroughfare are beauty, 
shade and hardiness. Lack of facilities for artificial 
watering makes it desirable to select trees which thrive 
under the local conditions. 

The Oaks and the Red Maple are good examples of 
desirable roadside trees, combining abundant shade 
with graceful dignity and beauty. They have the quali¬ 
ties of strength and hardiness which are sought for in trees 
for this purpose. The Sycamore is another species which 
meets the requirements. In the Oak family fine repre¬ 
sentatives for the country roadside are the Red, Pin, 
Scarlet and White Oaks for the North—Live, Willow 
and Laurel Oaks for the South, the Mossy Cup Oak for 
the prairies, the Valley Oak for California and the Red, 
Pin and English Oaks for the western parts of Oregon 
and Washington. In more than half the United States 
the stately American Elm lends a picturesque magnificence 
to the landscape and transforms a road into a splendid 
avenue which cannot fail to command the admiration of 
the traveler. In the northeast the Lindens and White 
Ash are well suited for roadside shade trees, and the 
Ginkgo, Tulip, Aspen, Yellow Birch and Beech will 


SUGAR MAPLE (FOREST FORM 



































ROADSIDE PLANTING OF TREES 


93 


likewise be found extremely satisfactory. For the 
South, additional desirable trees are the Sweet Gum, Um¬ 
brella or Cucumber tree, Tulip, Ginkgo and Evergreen 
Magnolia, and in California the Eucalyptus, the Cali¬ 
fornia Walnuts and large leaved Maple on all the Pacific 
Slope, and the Camphor, Silk Oak and Pepper trees for 
southern California. 

On stretches of road where trees are meant to provide 
shelter from wind and storm as well as to furnish shade, 
it is well to use types of trees which adapt themselves to 
what is known as a windbreak. This purpose is effectively 
served in the East by such evergreens as the Spruce, 
Balsam, Cedar and Arbor Vitae, and in less degree by 
deciduous trees, while in the West only deciduous trees 
are available except in California, where the Eucalyptus 
is the most important for this purpose. 

In roadside planting, trees should be in rows, follow¬ 
ing the alignment of the boundary fences or property 
lines on some straight roads, but irregularly placed on 
winding roads. When in straight lines, uniform spacing 
is important, and there should also be uniformity as to 
species, size and shape in order to secure the most satis¬ 
factory landscape effect. As to spacing, a distance of at 
least 80 feet between trees should be allowed, to give 
room for proper development and to prevent such density 
of shade as will hamper the growth of crops near at hand, 
and interfere with the view from the roadway. In 
providing windbreaks, it is desirable, of course, to have 
the trees much closer, and often more than one row on 
each side is desirable. 

Shrubs, too, have their place in roadside ornamenta¬ 
tion, and their use should be encouraged. Whether in 
groups of their own or used with trees, they greatly enrich 
the landscape. In some spots, where trees cannot be 


94 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 



How to plant roadside trees where there are telephone and telegraph poles. 


placed to advantage, shrubs will produce highly ornamen¬ 
tal effects. Species native to the neighborhood are 
desirable, because of demonstrated suitability to climatic 
and soil conditions. A dwarf-growing tree of shrub-like 
characteristics which is much used for ornamental drive¬ 
ways is the Hawthorn or Thornapple. The boulevard in 
Genesee Valley Park, at Rochester, has been planted with 
this variety for a stretch of two and one-half miles. 
When in bloom the Hawthorn is a plant of rare beauty 
and later in the season, it has the charm of a profusion of 
large, red fruit and dense dark green foliage. 

The location of the rows of trees along a roadway 
must necessarily be determined by local conditions. 
Regard must be had for telephone or telegraph lines and 
the trees should be located in a way that will result in 
the smallest possible interference from wires and poles. 
A 60 foot roadway may be advantageously subdivided 
into a 30 foot drive, with 15 feet on either side for the 



















ROADSIDE PLANTING OF TREES 


95 


accommodation of trees and pole construction. This 
makes it possible to place the poles near the roadway 
and the trees along the property line, a plan which has 
been found effective in Kansas and other states which 
have given close attention to roadside planting. 


CHAPTER VIII. 

NUT TREES FOR ROADSIDE PLANTING 

F OR roadside planting many of the best authorities urge 
the use of nut trees, as combining the elements of shade 
tree beauty with those of crop-producing utility. They 
argue that for size, attractiveness and purely ornamental 
effect some members of the nut group are among the most 
desirable of American trees, and that they excel most 
other trees of hardwood timber value in rapid growth, 
length of life and resistance to insects and diseases. 

With this blend of the artistic and the practical, the 
advocates of this type of planting are constantly gaining 
new followers, and the growing of nut trees along the 
highways is steadily becoming more frequent. 

Perhaps the first objection offered when this type is 
suggested is the likelihood of raids on the nut crop by 
people passing along the highway. The simplest reply is, 
even in the event of complete loss of the crop, the property 
owner is as well off as he would have been with non¬ 
producing species. His highway has had the benefit of 
the shade, the landscape has had the added beauty and 
picturesqueness provided by magnificent trees, and his 
farm has the increased value that comes from these 
advantages. To carry the reply still farther, it may be 
pointed out that complete loss is neither necessary nor 
probable. In support of this the experience of nut and 
fruit growers in various parts of the country may be cited. 

In California, the Pacific Northwest, Michigan, and 
many other sections we find orange groves, or almond and 
walnut groves, apple or peach orchards, and extensive 
vineyards coming close to the highways, and more than 

96 





■ 

, 



*V - 


y?,. 






V^.' 1 



n| *7/ 

Jp> ; >; :, ^|jj.v .as 




L1t-f» j j i 

i£?j» f ti 

i 

'■“ -SAkfS 

- j *' 



; .4 JB 






1 ^PBr? 

. ' V.. 


/j-*r 

^n, 




SHAG BARK HICKORY 




































































• 







































































































* 

















NUT TREES FOR ROADSIDE PLANTING 9 7 

half the time with no fence or other protection against 
raiders from the outside. For all practical purposes, this 
amounts to roadside planting. It is true that in some 
parts of California the stealing from groves and orchards 
near the highway has become so serious that stringent 
protective laws have had to be enacted. It is equally 
true, however, that with or without the protection of 
fences, wherever this sort of thieving occurs it is fairly 
certain to extend into the orchards as well as along the 
immediate borders of the highways. It must be conceded, 
of course, that fruit or nuts grown outside a fence are more 
tempting than those inside, and that a certain amount of 
stealing from highway trees in excess of that which occurs 
on private land must be expected and taken into consider¬ 
ation. Experience in New York has shown that roadside 
fruit trees have invited pilfering that extended well into 
the orchards and upon the removal of the roadside trees 
there was no further trouble, even though there was no 
change in the fence. Fruit and nut trees are also liable 
to mutilation by the would-be gatherers especially as the 
tendency is to attempt to get the crop before it is mature. 
On the other hand, it must be remembered that ex¬ 
perience shows that the harvest of nuts from roadside 
trees is clear gain, as compared with the non-producers, 
and that the yield makes it worth while to undertake the 
growing and protection of trees of the nut group if the 
owner can be indifferent to the mutilation of the trees. 

In some European countries nut and fruit trees along 
the roads are sources of material profit. These trees are 
owned by the public, and the sentiment of the community 
has been sufficient to protect the crops against marauders. 
Even though we may assume the lack of any well devel¬ 
oped protective sentiment in this country, the civil 
authorities can easily provide regulations which will 
































NUT TREES FOR ROADSIDE PLANTING 99 

inflict penalties for raids on the product of roadside nut 
trees. If the trees are planted and owned by the tax¬ 
payers, such regulations will be the more readily enforced; 
but, even in the case of private ownership, it should not be 
difficult to afford protection which will assure the property 
owner at least a reasonable proportion of the harvest. 

The planting of nut trees is of itself comparatively 
new in this country. Until within the last ten years, 
except in the regions where commercial nut raising had 
become established, the individual’s proposal to plant trees 
for the raising of nuts was usually met by scornful com¬ 
ment. One nut tree planter, in planting an orchard of nut 
trees on his farm near Washington some years ago, found 
himself the object of critical remarks and good-natured jests 
from friends and acquaintances. The most frequent critic¬ 
ism had to do with the length of time involved in waiting for 
the young trees to reach the age of production. To one critic 
who had thus questioned the wisdom of the undertaking, 
the planter replied: “I don’t know just how long it 
will be before these trees bear, but I do know that they will 
be bearing nuts a long time before the trees you are not 
planting.” That this planter had the right idea is borne 
out by the experience of more than one man who has 
found that his roadside nut trees have proved themselves 
equal to the important task of caring for taxes and insur¬ 
ance on an entire farm—an experience not yet reported 
by those who confined their activities to criticism. 

As illustrating the not isolated experience of those 
who have planted nut trees along roadways, instead of the 
usual shade trees, an illuminating incident has recently 
come into notice from a Southern plantation. In this case 
a tenant farmer in Georgia was having difficulty in raising 
the funds for the annual payment of $600 in rent money 
and supporting a family of considerable size at the same 


IOO 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


time. Prices for cotton, corn and other staples were low 
and the demand light. During this period of depression, 
the tenant-farmer found financial salvation in the harvest 
from 73 Pecan trees clustered about the residential build¬ 
ings of the farm and extending in lines on both sides of his 
private entrance and along the public highway in front of 
the plantation. These trees had just come into bearing, 
and from their crop the tenant netted nearly eight hundred 
dollars, practically a third more than the amount of 
his rent. 

In Portland, Oregon, in 1907, a resident planted eight 
seedling Persian (English) Walnut trees along the street in 
front of his residence. From these trees each year, in ad¬ 
dition to having all the nuts needed for home consumption 
and dividing with the boys of the neighborhood on their 
own terms, he now obtains from nuts which he sells 
enough revenue to go a long way toward covering his taxes. 

A pioneer Pecan planter and one of the best known 
growers in Florida, had an experience which is typical of 
that of many who are brave enough to weather the jests of 
the neighborhood. In the fall of 1893, he ordered 100 Pecan 
trees from nurseries in Georgia and Louisiana. His place was 
then largely planted to Orange trees but he planned to set 
the Pecan trees along the driveway and about the buildings. 
The trees arrived at the railroad station, and were still 
in the freight house when the famous freeze of 1894 
arrived with its temperature of IS°F., killing the citrus 
trees and financially ruining many hundreds of people. 
Most of his neighbors left the community, but the planter 
removed the dead Orange trees and put the Pecans in their 
places. In later years he ordered more trees and put them 
out, too. 

The few straggling neighbors who hung on turned to 
cotton, corn, cattle, etc., the “etc.” referring largely to 


CHESTNUT. 












NUT TREES FOR ROADSIDE PLANTING ioi 


caustic witticisms aimed at the planter. They enter¬ 
tained themselves by commenting on what “that d- 

Yankee” (from Maine) was doing. Their jokes were 
varied, as usual in such cases, but the general opinion of 
the planter would have been expressed in the terms of 
Blackstone by “non compos mentis .” Years went by, 
and in time these very neighbors came to ask employment 
from the planter in his nut orchards. They then frankly 
admitted that “It always did seem like the man had more 
sense than most people.” 

The importance of the nut-raising industry along 
commercial lines is evidenced by a total investment of 
more than $110,000,000 in the growing of Persian (Eng¬ 
lish) walnuts in California, with an annual crop value of 
from $10,000,000 to $12,000,000; and the growing of 
almonds in the same state, with a yearly yield of 
$2,000,000. 

Pecans are grown, wild or cultivated, in every Atlantic 
seaboard and Gulf coast state from Maryland to Texas, 
and up the Mississippi to southern Indiana and eastern 
Iowa and in parts of Oklahoma and Kansas. Pecan pro¬ 
duction is bound to increase for the one sufficient reason 
that this crop thrives best mainly where no other culti¬ 
vated tree product of importance is being raised. The 
range of the Pecan is for the most part north of the citrus 
fruit section, and either south of, or below the altitude 
level of, the successful raising of apples and other decidu¬ 
ous fruits. 

The Pecan is, perhaps, the finest of all American nut 
trees for roadside planting wherever conditions of soil and 
climate will warrant. It is strictly native to this conti¬ 
nent and is found wild nowhere but in the United States. 
Beautiful specimens 3 or 4 feet through at the base and 
from 100 to 150 feet in height are found in the alluvial soils 


102 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


of the Mississippi and its tributaries. For both shade 
and ornament it is a splendid tree, which thrives in rich 
and moist soil. 

According to the census of 1920, the total production 
of pecans in 1919 was 31,898,548 pounds. Estimating 
on a value of twenty cents a pound for the “run of the 

drop,” this indicates an 
addition of more than 
$6,000,000 to the wealth of 
the pecan-growing states. 
Texas produced more than 
half of the total yield. 

When well chosen and 
properly cared for, the east¬ 
ern Black Walnut is one of 
the handsomest of all our 
native trees. Many nature 
lovers class it next to the American Elm in stateliness and 
decorative effect. In congenial soils it is one of the 
most rapid growers among the hardwoods, and it is by 
no means unusual for a seedling to develop a height of 
20 inches or more during the first year. The size of 
the matured tree is nothing short of magnificent. Dur¬ 
ing a recent contest for the discovery of the handsomest 
tree in the state of New York, a Black Walnut was one 
of the four largest trees found. In point of permanence 
it is also conspicuous, while one of its greatest advan¬ 
tages is the readiness with which it adapts itself to 
changed environment. Since its introduction into north¬ 
western Oregon, for instance, it has been found to make 
as satisfactory an ornamental tree in that climate as in 
the eastern states to which it is native. The city of 
Salem, Oregon takes great pride in possessing one of the 
finest specimens in America for size and beauty in relation 





• ' i r 4<#f f* >. 

■ *v ; ; tw 


* % *» * y'w . •> T ; n&r 4 

. -f - ; • ■ . 

•**•». : -' • •’ * * ; ::^p3, :.-• .* &■'% 't,X'4f<-. % M 

K ; ; . - 


i U , > . -w» * . 

s^4»4® 7 ' :S mlS 

* f ' ' T . iVO 


...» a £ 

• *S ^ ^ ~ 


'*.,r ' *>4 * 

^V: ; .V; 4 , ,., 7 . 

* *" -.•$*;• 

£*., •' :■ ft •- . * v - * 


■fe . 

■• A* V*/,' * •'•• ••- -•-**» 


PECAN 


















































































NUT TREES FOR ROADSIDE PLANTING 


103 


to age. At the age of 51 years, it had a breast-high 
circumference of 10 feet 11 inches. As showing the 
utility value of the species, it may be mentioned that this 
tree not infrequently produces several bushels of nuts in 
one season. 

The length of time required to bring a Black Walnut 
into production is variable. In a Pennsylvania nursery a 
tree has been photographed 
which was grafted when 
three years of age and which, 
in its fourth year, produced 
7 nuts. This early fruitful¬ 
ness is not wholly desirable, 
as it is better for a tree to 
grow for 6 or 7 years before 
it is allowed to bear. Never¬ 
theless, this instance is im¬ 
portant in showing that the 
time of production is largely in the hands of the grower. 
Some specimens run for 15 or 20 years before producing, but 
this time may be reduced by grafting. Different varieties 
may vary also in the matter of leafing-out in the spring and 
shedding leaves in the autumn, and in resistance or suscep¬ 
tibility to the attacks of insect pests and fungus diseases. To 
realize best results, these differences must be taken into 
consideration when seed or young trees are being se¬ 
lected for planting. A good rule to follow is to be sure 
that the seed came from a tree which had as nearly as 
possible the qualities wanted, and latitude and soil condi¬ 
tions as nearly similar as possible to those of the new 
planting. 

In California, the highway authorities are planting 
many miles of roadway with Black Walnut trees. Stretches 
of roads lined with magnificent trees of this species may 






104 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


be found in many places in this state. One of the finest 
of these borders the Lincoln Highway fifteen miles west 
of Sacramento. 

In Livingston County, Michigan, there are numerous 
splendid rows of Black Walnut trees from 50 to 60 
years of age which are among the beauty spots of the 
state’s highway system. One of Michigan’s planters in 
the fall of 1920, procured thirty bushels of selected 
walnuts from Mt. Vernon, the George Washington 
homestead in Virginia, to be planted by school children 
on school grounds and at their homes and along the state 
highways. Something like 2000 were planted by him in 
a nursery, for subsequent use in the city parks of Saginaw. 
An early example of this planter’s high valuation of the 
Black Walnut is afforded by a handsome and thrifty 
specimen now standing in front of the Saginaw postoffice, 
where it was planted by him 15 years ago. 

The Black Walnut develops a well-rounded crown of 
symmetrical growth, and in its native state it is found in 
rich woodlands over a wide range of country. Its natural 
territory extends from Massachusetts south to Florida, 
and west and southwest to Minnesota, Nebraska, Kansas 
and Texas. Adaptability to strange regions broadens 
this range to include almost the entire country for pur¬ 
poses of transplanting or introduction. 

The Butternut, a close kinsman of the Black Walnut, 
has distinct claims to consideration as a roadside tree, 
especially for cold climates. Although less durable for 
timber purposes than the Black Walnut, smaller in growth, 
and not so attractive in appearance, it has the advantage 
of growing in climates too severe for either the Walnut or 
the Hickories. In fact, the Butternut thrives further north 
than any other tree of the nut-producing group. Its 
resistance to frost makes it well worth while as an addi- 


NUT TREES FOR ROADSIDE PLANTING 105 



tion to the varieties availa¬ 
ble for northern regions. The 
range of this tree is from 
Nova Scotia south into 
Pennsylvania and Mary¬ 
land, and southwest to Ar¬ 
kansas. Its most common 
native regions are the moun¬ 
tains, from Maryland north 
to and including New Eng¬ 
land. The nut of this tree 
has a very rich flavor. Crop production is irregular, but 
sometimes exceedingly generous. 

Among the Hickories the Shagbark has a beauty and 
individuality all its own, while the best specimens rival 
the Maple for sturdy strength and attractiveness. The use 
of this species as a roadside tree has many advocates, and 

the fine specimens to be 
found along the highways of 
Michigan and other states 
forcefully confirm the argu¬ 
ments in its favor. The tree 
grows in practically the 
same territory as does the 
Black Walnut, but it is of 
slower growth and less able 
to adapt itself to the con¬ 
ditions of changed environ- 
ment. Many other Hickories have much the same quali¬ 
ties of beauty that characterize the Shagbark, and to¬ 
gether they cover a wide range of soil and climate. 

In comparatively mild climates the Japanese Walnut 
makes a satisfactory roadside tree. It is dwarfish in habit, 
and somewhat less hardy than the Black Walnut. Success- 





io6 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


ful planting has been practiced over a considerable part 
of the country. 

The Beech has many qualities which commend it for 
highway planting. It is a tree of rugged growth, with 

dense foliage of surpassing 
beauty, and lends genuine 
charm to the roadside land¬ 
scape. Its one drawback, a 
minor one, is that its smooth 
white bark is a perennial in¬ 
vitation to the carving of 
initials. The beech is wide- 
spreading as to limbs, round- 
topped and symmetrical. Its 
native field is for the most 
part in the north, but it also grows to large size alongside 
the Magnolias of southwest Georgia and other South¬ 
ern states. 

The same graceful dignity which makes this tree so 
highly prized in parks and on private estates makes it a 
favorite for roadside purposes as well. It stands a good 
deal of shade, but requires rich, cool and fairly moist soil; 
it should never be planted in soil which is dry or gravelly. 
It will thrive in soil some¬ 
what too wet for the Black 
Walnut, Shagbark Hickory, 
or Pecan, but must not be 
planted in soil where the 
moisture is excessive, as in 
swamp lands. 

The Chestnut has many 
points of value, but the rav¬ 
ages of the deadlyblight ren¬ 
der its use hazardous in 












NUT TREES FOR ROADSIDE PLANTING 107 

many parts of the country. This tree can not be recom¬ 
mended for general planting. There are certain sections, 
however, outside of its native range, where the Chestnut 
does well and where its planting is being encouraged. This 
condition is to be found in western Washington and Oregon, 
northern California, and in eastern California in the 
foothills of the Sierras. 


CHAPTER IX. 


MEMORIAL TREES 


REE planting to honor the heroic dead of the Great 



1 War, or others, has given the world a new form of 
monument—the memorial that lives. 

The memorial tree is clothed in the finest of human 
sentiment. In its ever renewing growth it stands forth 
as a thing alive, a simple symbol to keep forever green 
the memory of those in whose honor it is planted. For 
to-day and for generations yet unborn, the message of the 
memorial tree is the message of life. 

That the memorial tree should altogether supplant 
other forms of monument is neither to be expected nor 
desired. Memorials of stone or bronze will always have 
their place. The massive beauty of the Washington Mon¬ 
ument, the impressive dignity of the Grant Tomb and the 
graceful outline of the Arc de Triomphe are enough to 
prove the enduring worth of memorials of this character. 
Even with such memorials, however, the memorial tree 
plays an important part. For bringing out the artistic 
symmetry of such structures in their full value, an environ¬ 
ment of trees is indispensable. By enhancing the beauty 
of the surroundings they give an added worth and 
meaning to the stateliest edifice reared by human hands. 

One of the most appealing features of the tree as a 
memorial is that this form of expression is possible to 
everyone. The memorial tree is suited to the require¬ 
ments of the city as a whole or to the needs of the one 
person. It may express the reverence of a community, of 
a group or an individual. In either form it is ideal. 

It has been gratifying to see the world’s response to the 
claims of the tree as the most fitting memorial to those who 


108 



MRS. HARDING PLANTING AN EI.M ON INTERNATIONAL AVE. FACING THE 
LINCOLN MEMORIAL. WASHINGTON. D. C. 









































































MEMORIAL TREES 


109 


went to the defence of civilization. Throughout America 
and in foreign countries the response has spread on a 
growing wave of human approval. Among the Allied 
Nations, as in the United States, the people have been 
quick to recognize the appropriateness of the living 
monument, and to join with America in the planting of 
memorial trees. 

The movement had its birth with the signing of the 
Armistice, when the people of the United States adopted 
the tree as their token of tribute. The idea was taken up 
promptly by officials, by organizations, by the nation’s 
editors and by the people. Memorial tree planting had 
become an established custom before our troops were 
withdrawn from the camps of France. When General 
Pershing reached this country after his brilliant leadership 
of the American Expeditionary Forces, among his first 
acts was the planting of memorial trees in Central Park, 
New York, and in Independence Square, Philadelphia. 
Dedicated to the soldier dead by their commander, these 
trees will stand forth to future generations as noble 
sentinels of a noble chapter in American history. Two 
years later he carried the message of the memorial tree 
overseas, and on French soil planted an Oak in theTroca- 
dero gardens, to symbolize America’s homage to the soldier 
dead of France. 

The American Legion responded with the same spirit 
which moved the great general. The organization is tak¬ 
ing a leading part in cooperating with the American Tree 
Association in spreading the claims of the memorial tree 
and in active planting of these living monuments. In 
orders to posts throughout the world the Legion early 
threw its influence to the movement, and from everywhere 
come reports of tree planting by the Legionnaires in 
tribute to their comrades-at-arms. A pioneer in this 


no 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


work was Colonel F. W. Galbraith, Jr., one of the first 
commanders of the American Legion. Colonel Galbraith 
entered into the undertaking with the vigor and enthu¬ 
siasm which marked his entire life, and his last official 
act, a few days before his tragic death, was to plant 
memorial trees at the intersection of the National and 
Dixie Highways in Vandalia, Ohio. The Legion will 
extend the tree planting along both of these important 
roadways, in tribute to Colonel Galbraith as well as to 
the men who died in France. 

The President and Mrs. Harding have planted a 
number of these living memorials. Perhaps the most 
notable instance of tree planting by occupants of the 
White House was at the formal opening of Armistice 
Week, on November 7, 1921. That week will always hold 
conspicuous place in American history, as a period made 
memorable by the burial of America’s Unknown Soldier 
and by the opening of the epoch-making Conference on 
the Limitation of Armament. The first event on the 
week’s program was the planting by Mrs. Harding, on the 
grounds of the Lincoln Memorial, of two trees to the mem¬ 
ory of the Allied Armies and the Allied Navies. These 
trees stand at the head of International Avenue. 

It was with a fine sense of fitness that the first mem¬ 
orial tree to be planted in the National Capital was 
dedicated to the memory of the men of the United States 
Forest Service who had given their lives in the war. 

The soldier dead from the Congressional Library were 
given the tribute of the memorial tree. 

Another tree planted in the National Capital was in 
memory of Quentin Roosevelt and was set out by the 
pupils of the Force School. 

There was pretty symbolism in the plan adopted by 
the Daughters of the American Revolution at Arkadelphia, 



PLANTING AT GRANT’S TOMB, NEW YORK, IN MEMORY OF GEN. U. S. GRANT 
. ON THE CENTENNIAL OF HIS BIRTH. 




























































. 




















































































MEMORIAL TREES 


hi 


Arkansas, in planting a Maple as the organization’s 
memorial to the soldiers and sailors of that city. About 
the roots of the tree the planters placed soil from each 
state in the Union and from each of the Allied countries. 
The linking of all sections of the Union is also achieved 
in the memorial grove established in Exposition Park by 
the Los Angeles Chamber of Commerce. To be known as 
the Grove of States, this planting will contain a tree from 
each state. The city of Fort Wayne, Indiana, provided 
a memorial park, one corner of which is devoted to a five 
acre grove of memorial oaks. In this grove each tree is 
a tribute to a fallen soldier. In Philadelphia extensive 
planting has been done, including 500 trees in Logan 
Square. 

Baltimore has its Grove of Remembrance in the world 
famous Druid Hill Park. The trees in this group were 
dedicated to the fallen heroes by the War Mothers of 
America, now a part of the Service Star Legion. 

Gold Star Mothers planted 150 trees in the forest 
preserve of Cook County, Ill. In Chattanooga, Tennessee, 
more than 188 trees have been planted to the memory of 
the soldiers of Hamilton County. New Jersey has been 
active in memorial tree planting, with an example set by 
Governor Edwards in planting an Arbor Day tree, at 
Trenton, to perpetuate the memory of the soldiers of the 
state who gave their lives at the call of their country. 

The town of Charlotte, Michigan, has given splendid 
illustration of the meaning which may be given the plant¬ 
ing of memorial trees—a meaning which embraces com¬ 
munity improvement as well as honor for soldier dead. 
Charlotte’s memorial took the form of converting an 
unsightly piece of ground into a handsome park in which 
coming generations could take enduring pride. In this 
park the community has planted 7000 White Pines, 


11 2 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


1000 Maples and Elms, ioo Black Walnuts, ioo Butter¬ 
nuts and a grove of Red Oaks. In the center of the park 
stands a boulder, with the hero list setting forth that the 
grove is a memorial to the men of Eaton County who gave 
their lives in the war. 

An ambitious project in army circles was the planting 
of 6000 trees at the balloon school of the United States 
Army, at Fort Omaha, Colorado. Nearly 1000 of the 
trees were in memory of individuals who died in the 
service after having passed through the camps at Fort 
Omaha and Fort Crook. 

That the tongues in trees may preach their sermons 
to man was emphasized in the call for the planting of 
memorial trees which went forth to the Christian 
Endeavor Societies of the world. In this call, Rev. Francis 
E. Clark, founder and life-long leader of the Christian 
Endeavor organization, urged upon the members that 
through the planting of memorial trees they will come 
“closer to the Great Tree Maker.” In this phrase Dr. 
Clark summed up the appeal of the tree to human hearts, 
and gave mighty impetus to a movement in which he 
sensed impressive possibilities for the tribute of homage 
which would make the world a better place in which 
to live. 

From the village school to the great universities the 
educational institutions of the land have utilized the 
memorial tree for voicing their reverence for the memory 
of students and to classes. On the drill field of the 
University of Illinois, 173 trees were planted in honor of 
1 73 graduates who gave their lives. Georgetown Univer¬ 
sity, at Washington, dedicated 54 trees for the same pur¬ 
pose at its 120th commencement, and on the grounds of 
many institutions throughout the United States trees 
and groves of remembrance have been planted as tributes 



TREE PLANTED IN MEMORY OF JOHN MUIR AT THE MUSEUM OF NATURAL 

HISTORY', NEW YORK CITY. 



























' - 


















MEMORIAL TREES 


113 

of honor. The University of Washington, at Seattle, 
worked out plans for an arboretum to take the form of a 
memorial park, traversed by memorial avenues. In this 
elaborate undertaking the authorities are planning for a 
century ahead, and there is vivid appeal to the imagination 
in the future beauty of this living memorial in the great 
Northwest. 

On the grounds of the State Masonic Home at Eliza¬ 
bethtown, the Masons of Pennsylvania have established 
a memorial grove containing 264 trees. Each tree is 
registered in the name of a Mason who died in the service 
of the flag, and the roster is an impressive showing of the 
patriotism of the splendid organization. 

When the Children of the American Revolution met 
in Washington, they planted a memorial tree in front of the 
D. A. R. building to mark the date. In the shape of a 
five pointed star of trees, the State Normal School at 
Bloomsburg, Pa., honored its graduates. To mark the 
centennial of the birth of Clara Barton and of Gen. U. S. 
Grant memorial trees were planted. In the latter case the 
tree was placed at Grant’s Tomb in New York City, having 
been sent from the Grant Farm near St. Louis, Mo. 

The fiftieth anniversary of the first Arbor Day in 
Nebraska, in 1872, called out thousands of new tree 
planters. Many of these trees were placed in honor of 
J. Sterling Morton, the father of Arbor Day. In front of the 
American Tree Association’s headquarters are three trees 
planted for Morton by the Nebraska Society. Another 
was placed by the District of Columbia Federation of 
Women’s Clubs on the Lincoln Memorial Grounds. 

To mark the conference of the Pan-American Women 
an International tree was planted on the grounds of the 
Pan-American Building, Washington, D. C. 

8 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


114 

Another interesting group of trees on the Lincoln 
Memorial grounds at Washington are the trees planted by 
the John Burroughs Clubs of the public schools. This 
group for Burroughs, Thoreau, Whitman, Emerson and 
Muir is called the Hall of Fame. In Pasadena there is 
another Hall of Fame for famous men. At Atlanta there 
is an Authors’ Grove that is nationally famous. At St. 
Louis, Mo., there is a Gold Star Tree Court of Honor, 
and there is another at Trenton, Mo. This is part of a 
plan for state wide Gold Star Highways. Memorial tree 
planting has directed the thought to bigger things. At 
Herkimer, N. Y., the American Legion has a memorial 
forest well under way in which more than thirty thousand 
trees have been put in place. 

Everywhere memorial tree planting can be made a 
community affair, for the people can be brought together 
by tree planting. Whether it be one tree or a memory 
mile, there are community possibilities in the day’s program. 

The people of the whole country are turning to tree 
planting. Prominent visitors from other countries officiate 
at plantings. In the list we find Joffre, Foch, the Prince 
of Wales, the King and Queen of the Belgians and many 
other nationally known people. The tree lends itself to 
all times and all occasions. 


MARSHALL JOFFRE OF FRANCE PLANTING A MEMORIAL TREE AT MT. VERNON, N. Y. 









































































































V 































































CHAPTER X. 


ROADS OF REMEMBRANCE. 


A NATURAL extension of Memorial Tree planting has 
been the development of Roads of Remembrance. 
From coast to coast these highways have been planted 
with shade trees in grateful tribute to a nation’s soldiers. 

The Road of Remembrance has no limitations. 
Whether on the modest and secluded lane, on the great 
transcontinental highway, or on the city boulevard, the 
roadside tree is the enduring token of reverence and 
appreciation; and in its far-flung gift of shade and beauty 
it will bear to coming generations the truth that in these 
highways the planters wrought blessings for the future 
no less than tribute to the past. 

The immediate favor with which the Road of Remem¬ 
brance idea was greeted resulted in definite and active 
response to the appealing sentiment of the highway of 
tribute. The entire country is now dotted with sections 
of highway planting. The spirit of the movement goes 
forward in a way that leads to the belief that in coming 
years the roadside without shade tree beauty will be 
the conspicuous exception to a general rule. 

Roadside planting has two-fold appeal. It is a definite 
contribution to highway betterment as well as the finest 
form of memorial tribute. To clothe the roads of the 
land with trees is an important example of community 
improvement, and one which will carry its blessings into 
the distant future. Just now the movement has especial 
timeliness. The country is face to face with opportunity. 
In cooperation with the Federal government, the states 
are now planning the most extensive program of road 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


116 

building yet undertaken in the United States. The work 
of construction will embrace every state in the Union. 
Aroused by the unusual blend of practical benefit and 
sentimental appeal, organizations throughout the country 
have become active participants in the creation of Roads 
of Remembrance. Women’s clubs, automobile clubs, 
and highway associations have entered into the spirit of 
the movement, with a determination that the newly built 
roadways shall be Roads of Tribute in the ideal form. 
In the schools, also, the project has gained momentum, 
and throughout the land Tree Planting Associations have 
been organized to plant particular sections. 

The White House has given encouragement and stim¬ 
ulus to the movement through the spoken word, the 
written message and active participation. In a letter 
the President said: 

“I find myself altogether responsive to your request for an appeal 
to the people to plant memorial trees along the important public high¬ 
ways as memorials to the men who were sacrificed in the World War, 
and, indeed also to those who gave their service without the ultimate 
sacrifice. I can hardly think of a more fitting testimonial of our 
gratitude and affection than this. It would be not only the testi¬ 
mony of our sentiments, but a means to beautify the country which 
these heroes have so well served. 

“A general adoption of this plan would, in coming years, be noted 
as one of the useful and beautiful ideas which our soldiers brought 
back from France. The splendid avenues of France have been among 
the great delights and attractions to travellers there, and a similar 
development would equally add to the beauty and attraction of our 
country. I am pleased to know that the idea has already been taken 
up quite extensively and that considerable progress has been made. 
If the cooperation of state, municipal and county administrations 
may be secured, as well as of the forestry services of the nation and the 
states, it ought to be possible to make a rapid advance in a compara¬ 
tively short time. I hope that you and your coadjutors may be 
successful in securing a most substantial beginning in this direction 
during the present season. 


(Signed) Warren G. Harding.” 



THEODORE ROOSEVELT POST, AMERICAN LEGION PLANTING THE FIRST OF 
200 MEMORY TREES TO COL. ROOSEVELT. 



















- 





























































































































































































ROADS OF REMEMBRANCE 


n 7 

Mrs. Harding’s approval and support were expressed 
in a letter to the Women’s Club at York, Pa. Mrs. 
Harding wrote: 

“Please allow me to congratulate you on the wonderful work you 
have brought to conclusion in the dedication on Memorial Day of 
the road of remembrance along the Lincoln Highway. In the plant¬ 
ing of twenty-five miles of that famous highway, you have erected a 
memorial that the entire country can enjoy in the years to come. 
May long life attend the trees you have placed in the care of the 
Lincoln Highway Memorial and Tribute Tree Association.” 

The spirit which prompted these letters is the spirit 
which has resulted in roadside planting in all parts of the 
country. The planting takes many forms. In Bibb 
County, Georgia there is a Cross of Trees with Macon as 
the point of crossing. Along the Lincoln Highway there 
have been many plantings. At York, Pa., the Women’s 
Clubs have planted twenty-five miles along both sides of 
that highway. The dedication was made a wonderful 
event for Memorial Day. The trees have been turned 
over to the Lincoln Highway Memorial and Tribute 
Tree Association. At Canton, Ohio, where the same 
highway passes, the Lincoln Highway Memorial Associa¬ 
tion of Stark County is planting memorial trees. Along 
the road leading from the highway to the tomb of William 
McKinley there has been planted an Avenue of the 
Presidents to lead into the major road. The St. Joseph 
County Memorial Tree Forestry Association, at South 
Bend, Ind., has completed its share of the tree planting 
along the Lincoln Highway in that state. Under the 
direction of the Ottawa Permanent Memorial Association 
and Ottawa Tree Club, trees have been planted along the 
Lincoln Highway in Iowa. Out of Clinton has been made 
a “Memory Mile” and planted with trees by the Kiwanis 
Club. Thus the work goes on. At Seattle, the Garden 
Club has planted 1200 memorial trees and the work has 
been but started to the Pierce County line. 


118 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


One of the first Roads of Remembrance to be com¬ 
pleted was fifteen miles of the West Coast road out of 
Tampa, Fla., where the Rotary Club has charge of the 
work. In Kentucky, there is a twelve mile Road of 
Remembrance between Lexington and Georgetown. 

The main highway from New York City to Buffalo is 
to be a Road of Remembrance and the first trees have 
been planted. Victory Oaks have been planted in Louisi¬ 
ana along the Jefferson Highway that leads from New 
Orleans to Winnipeg, Canada, and towns all along the 
route are making plans for memorial tree planting. 
Beautification of the great highways goes hand in hand 
with the memorial tree planting. Particular attention 
is being paid to this by the Woman’s Commission of the 
Bankhead National Highway Association. Trees, shrubs 
and flowers will be planted along this highway and plans 
for a great bird preserve are being pushed. In many 
places in California the Road of Remembrance idea has 
made great progress. In many of the states the tree 
planters are working in close cooperation with the 
state highway officials and reports show that hundreds of 
towns are providing parks and beauty spots as a result 
of the campaign. 

On Armistice Day, 1921, the day of the burial of the 
Unknown Soldier at Arlington, the American Legion 
planted many miles of Roads of Remembrance in Chicago 
and on other thoroughfares in various sections of the 
country. At Santa Rosa, California, the Legion has co¬ 
operated with the Chamber of Commerce in planting four 
and one-half miles of shade trees along a section of the 
state highway. 

Under the leadership of their Chambers of Commerce, 
Joliet, Aurora and Ottawa municipalities have planted 
Memorial Trees to the number of 10,000 on the Lincoln 
Highway in Illinois. 


DEDICATION OF ROADSIDE TREE PLANTING ON THE LINCOLN HIGHWAY NEAR YORK. PA, 



stir 

























































ROADS OF REMEMBRANCE 119 

In Indiana the Women’s Clubs plan to set out Mem¬ 
orial Trees along every mile of the Lincoln Highway in its 
course across the state. Richard Bennett of Wisconsin 
has planted 70 trees along the 70 rods of highway which 
touch his property. This is the unique individual effort 
thus far recorded with the Association. 

Brooklyn, New York, has undertaken a memorial 
highway as an important part of a great civic improve¬ 
ment, which means making over a large part of the muni¬ 
cipality. One thousand trees have been planted at 
Middletown, Ohio. Chattanooga is lining the road with 
trees as it approaches the city from each direction. 
Ware County, Georgia, has given the highway an eight 
mile planting. The Jefferson and Dixie highways will 
become Roads of Remembrance to an extent in keeping 
with the development of the Lincoln Highway. 

At Paducah, Kentucky, 2000 memorial trees, lining a 
Victory Road, have been set out by the McCracken 
County Historical Society, which undertook to provide 
a tree for each man and woman of the county who 
answered the call of the flag. Mobile has a memorial 
highway five miles long. In Lake County, Florida, the 
Park Commission’s planting of Roads of Remembrance 
covers the entire county. Minneapolis has connected 
two parks by a memorial boulevard lined with trees for 
its full length of seven miles. 

In Great Britain the Road of Remembrance Associa¬ 
tion is urging that all memorials be given the proper 
setting on Roads of Remembrance or on memorial avenues 
leading to such highways. 

Beautification of the great highways goes hand in 
hand with the memorial tree planting. 


CHAPTER XI. 

THE HALL OF FAME FOR TREES 

I T is fitting that trees should have their own Hall of 
Fame to give permanent record to their participation 
in history. 

Through all the ages the trees have had important 
share in human progress. Under all conditions and in 
all climes they have proved themselves the best of good 
citizens. Their story is closely interwoven with the 
fabric of time. They have been a part of statecraft, war, 
art and literature, and they have stood as silent witnesses 
to man’s achievements and solemn participants in his 
councils of destiny. To carry their message of the past 
to the generations of the future is an enterprise of vivid 
appeal to the imagination. 

Since the creation of the idea of a Hall of Fame for Trees 
the spirit of recognition has spread to all parts of the United 
States. The study of the trees presented as candidates for 
admission to the Hall of Fame has been a study of American 
development. Trees now living and offered as nominees 
have been sentries of history written and unwritten. Re¬ 
search into the individual records of the candidates has 
been an intimate education in the progress of the New 
World of Columbus, Washington and Lincoln. 

To cover the life span of the nominees the imagination 
must go back 4000 years and more. In the Redwood 
forests of California stands a tree whose claims rest 
on the simple statement of age. The General Sherman 
Sequoia is declared to be the oldest thing now liv¬ 
ing. It was of giant growth at the time of the birth of 
Christ, almost 2000 years ago. To-day, at an age of 

120 



THE NEW GARDEN OAK NEAR THE SCENE OF BATTLE OF GUILFORD COURT 
HOUSE, N. C., NOMINATED FOR THE HALL OF FAME BY THE DAUGHTERS 
OF THE AMERICAN REVOLUTION. BENEATH THIS TREE THE QUAKERS 
CARED FOR THE INTURED IN THE BATTLE THAT ENDED THE REVOLU- 
TIONARY WAR. FROM HERE CORNWALLIS RETREATED TO YORKTOWN. 






















































































































































THE HALL OF FAME FOR TREES 


121 


more than 4000 years, it has a diameter of 36^2 feet 
and a height of 280 feet. This tree is located in 
Sequoia National Park, where it stands as a memorial 
to General William Tecumseh Sherman, as well as the 
undisputed monarch of the ages. 

In sharp contrast to this woodland patriarch is the 
Naturalization Tree in Kentucky, a symbol of the 
American Spirit of to-day. For this tree no certificate 
of age is necessary. Both name and fame rest on its 
service in connection with Americanizing recruits at 
Camp Zachary Taylor during the recent war. Under its 
branches thousands of aliens took the oath of allegiance 
upon being mustered into the ranks of the United States 
Army. On a single day this tree witnessed the naturali¬ 
zation of 925 of these new Americans and saw their salute 
to the flag of their new citizenship. 

In the grounds of the White House, at Washington, 
stands a tree which links the past and present in an 
unusual manner. This tree is the outgrowth of an acorn 
brought from Russia, and because of this and its unique 
lineage it is known as the Russo-American Oak. The 
tree from which the acorn was obtained stands in Petro- 
grad. It grew from an acorn produced by a tree at the 
tomb of Washington, at Mt. Vernon. The Mt. Vernon 
acorn was sent to the Czar of Russia by Senator Charles 
Sumner, of Massachusetts, and planted in the grounds 
of the Imperial Palace by the Czar as a symbol of Russo- 
American friendship. In 1898, the tree which had grown 
from Senator Sumner’s acorn was located by Ethan 
Allen Hitchcock, then American Ambassador to St. 
Petersburg. Gathering and planting some of the acorns 
from this tree, the Ambassador sent a sapling of the new 
generation to President Roosevelt for planting in the 
White House grounds. The planting took place on April 


122 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


6, 1904, exactly thirteen years before the day on which 
the United States joined hands with Russia and other 
European countries in the greatest conflict the world has 
ever known—a conflict which led to the destruction of 
the old Russia and the assassination of the royal family. 
The young tree was planted by President Roosevelt him¬ 
self, with the cooperation of Secretary Wilson of the 
Department of Agriculture, and Mr. Hitchcock, at that 
time Secretary of the Interior. With its registration in 
the Hall of Fame, this tree takes conspicuous place in the 
list of trees with a history. 

In various spots in the District of Columbia may be 
found trees of individual celebrity. In the shadow of the 
Capitol, within the splendid park surrounding the seat 
of government, is a tree planted by George Washington 
and now treasured as a priceless memento of the first 
President’s interest in the beautifying of the city named 
in his honor. On Connecticut Avenue hill stands a 
stately tree of majestic spread, known as the Treaty Oak, 
for the reason that under its branches an important 
treaty with the Indians was signed 150 years ago. 

George Washington’s interest in trees was of far- 
reaching influence. In many places trees are now growing 
which owe their existence to the Father of the Country. 
One of these is reported from the vicinity of Bath, 
Pennsylvania. It came from Mt. Vernon as a gift from 
President Washington to General Brown, a notable 
figure of the Revolution. General Brown planted this 
tree in front of his old home, and it is known today as the 
Washington Horse Chestnut. In the nomination of this 
tree for the Hall of Fame its present base circumfer¬ 
ence is given as 27 feet, 7 inches, with a girth of 17 
feet at a point 6 feet from the ground. In the Friends’ 
Graveyard at Salem, New Jersey, is an Oak under 



KENTUCKY COFFEE TREE— FISHKILL-ON-HUDSON, N. Y. 

PLANTED IN 1804 IN FRONT OF THE HISTORICAL VERPLANCK MANSION, THE 
SCENE OF THE FIRST MEETING OF THE SOCIETY OF THE CINCINNATI. IT IS 
75 FEET HIGH—10 FEET IN DIAMETER. SPREAD OF BRANCHES, 181 FEET. 












THE HALL OF FAME FOR TREES 


123 


which soldiers of Washington’s army drilled in the 
days of the Revolution. This tree is known to be more 
than 300 years old. Its branches cover almost a quarter 
of an acre. Of even greater spread than this is the Sir 
Joseph Hooker Oak, nominated from Chico, California, 
which has a single limb 102 feet in length, and of which 
General W. T. Sherman declared that at noon it would 
shade an army of 7000 men. Six feet from the ground this 
Oak has a circumference of 28 feet, 4 inches. 

In various parts of America are trees famous through 
association with the Marquis de Lafayette. One Lafay¬ 
ette tree on the battlefield of Brandywine derives its 
prestige from the circumstance that when the celebrated 
French general was wounded at Brandywine his injuries 
were given first aid under this tree. At Annapolis is a 
tree under which a reception to Lafayette was held, with 
a distinguished company in attendance. In the form of 
trees planted by his own hand, General Lafayette left 
many mementoes of his travels in America. One of these 
is now standing at Concord, New Hampshire. Another 
is at Yorktown, near a house in which are still to be seen 
cannon balls imbedded in the timbers during the notable 
battle of Yorktown. 

There are many Lincoln trees which were planted in 
memory of the martyred president. These are reported 
from various sections of the United States. One of these 
is a l lackbcrry, planted by John Finn on April 27, 1865, at 
Decorah, Iowa. This tree now holds place as one of the 
finest growths in the state and it has won more than local 
reputation for its symmetrical beauty. Another tree of 
similar significance stands before the home of Mrs. Allen 
Partridge, in Augusta, Maine. With other Lincoln Trees 
these specimens have found their merited place in the 
Flail of Fame for trees with a history. 


124 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


General Ulysses S. Grant had a keen appreciation of 
the worth of trees, and showed his interest by planting 
them on many occasions. During the famous journey 
around the world which followed his term in the White 
House, this celebrated American planted a tree in each 
large city in the Orient visited in his travels. Throughout 
his tour he was received with ceremony befitting his 
widespread renown, and in every city the crowning event 
of the day’s program was the planting of a tree. As a 
result there are many “General Grant” trees in various 
parts of the world. Chicago takes deep pride in one of 
these, an Elm planted by the soldier-statesman in 
Washington Park in 1879, during his first visit to the city 
after his tour of the world. 

Indiana treasures with reverence the Constitutional 
Elm, with its spread of 124 feet. Under this tree, in 1816, 
was held the Constitutional Convention of Corydon, and 
as a result of this association with the making of the 
state, the tree holds firm place in the affections of the 
people of Indiana. In North Carolina stands the Battle¬ 
ground Oak, also known as the Cornwallis Oak and the 
Liberty Oak, because of its association with momentous 
events in the war of the Revolution. This tree witnessed 
the celebrated battle of Guilford Court House, in 1781. 
In the opinion of its sponsors it is entitled to a place in the 
Hall of Fame for its shade tree beauty as well as for its 
historical interest. The spread of its branches is more 
than 100 feet and its base circumference 21 feet. 

The Wesley Oak has been nominated from St. Simon’s 
Island, off the coast of Georgia. This tree brings its 
message of the early days of Georgia’s settlement, when 
British troops were quartered on the Island. One notable 
chapter in its history is linked with the American visit of 
John and Charles Wesley, whose memory is sacred to the 


THE HALL OF FAME FOR TREES 


125 


followers of Methodism throughout the world. Both 
Wesleys are known to have preached under the Wesley 
Oak, with British soldiers as their congregations. 

In addition to the General Sherman Sequoia, with its 
life span of forty centuries, California offers many other 
trees of historical and romantic interest. One of these 
is a tree of to-day, which tells a story of modern develop¬ 
ment in the Golden West—a story of the uncovering of 
agricultural riches surpassing the gold mines in their 
permanent value to the state. This tree, the Hilgard 
Chestnut, stands in front of Agricultural Hall, on the cam¬ 
pus of the University of California, where it rears its 
stately crown as a living memorial to Professor Hilgard, 
first dean of the College of Agriculture. Professor 
Hilgard’s work for the development of California’s 
amazing agricultural resources had much to do with the 
creation of the State’s almost fabulous wealth in farming; 
this tree is a grateful tribute to this distinguished man. The 
Chestnut was planted in 1885, and in the fall of 1922 
its branches covered an area more than 5° f ee t ' m diameter. 

America has many trees prized for their association 
with literature, as the Cambridge Elms, immortalized in 
story and poem, the Elms of New Haven and Princeton, 
made famous by intimate relationship with many of the 
nation’s most gifted men of letters, and the trees of 
Boston Common which have sheltered generations of 
literary celebrities. A worthy addition to the list, serving 
to link the genius of the old world with the spirit of the 
new, is the Shakespeare Memorial Oak, occupying a place 
of honor on the campus of the University of Rochester in 
the state of New York. This Oak was brought from 
Shakespeare’s home in Stratford-on-Avon, and was planted 
at Rochester April 23, 1864, in connection with the 
celebration of the tercentennial of Shakespeare’s birth. 


126 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


Visiting royalty has made its contribution to the 
famous trees of America. In Central Park, New York, is 
an American Elm which was planted by the late King 
Edward VII, of Great Britain, during his visit to this 
country as the Prince of Wales. Not more than ioo 
feet away is an English Elm, planted in 1919, by the 
present Prince of Wales, the widely beloved grandson of 
the earlier visitor. The present prince also planted trees 
at Annapolis and at Mt. Vernon, and took part in the 
ceremonies at which Bishop Harding planted a tree, at 
St. Albans Cathedral in Washington. When the King 
and Queen of the Belgians visited this country, in 1919, 
the Queen planted a European Green Beech in Central 
Park, as a token of Belgium’s enduring affection for the 
people of America. These trees serve as fitting reminders 
of the royal visits, and in the years to come they will stand 
forth as living symbols of the bonds by which the civili¬ 
zation of the Old World is linked with the New Democracy 
of America. 

Trees of history abound in all parts of the United 
States. Their Hall of Fame was conceived as an open 
book of memory for their life stories. In its pages will be 
found a record of events generously epitomizing the 
development of American civilization. Because of the 
existence of this permanent record, generations yet 
unborn will have all the more intimate glimpse into the 
past and all the clearer conception of the events of history. 
In its own particular field of service, the Hall of Fame 
for Trees is as necessary and important as the Hall of 
Fame in which is perpetuated the memory of the achieve¬ 
ments of man. 


CHAPTER XII. 
LABELLING SHADE TREES 


HE close observer often wonders why so little atten- 



l tion has been paid to labelling the shade trees of our 
towns and cities. 

Somebody has said that the effect of reading a label 
on a tree previously unidentified is like an introduction to 
a stranger, in that it creates an interest otherwise lacking. 

Where the trees are labelled, the observer will find 
visitors stopping to study the markings and showing gen¬ 
uine interest in the information. Where there are no 
labels he will note people vainly trying to establish the 
identity of the trees. 

The newly developed interest in shade trees, through¬ 
out the country, carries with it an aroused demand for 
definite information as to species. For a community 
to make liberal expenditures for tree planting and then 
stop short of labels is a mistake in policy. The cost of 
planting is expressed in dollars; the added expense for 
labels is a matter of cents. Since the success of the move¬ 
ment for shade tree development is largely a question of 
education, it is obvious that the more we do to make trees 
popular the greater will be the public interest in their 
planting and protection. Labels will play an important 
and necessary part in this educational work, and may 
therefore be counted as having a vital influence for the 
beautification of the community. 

Until quite recently practically none of the cities of 
America have undertaken to label the trees in adequate 
fashion. In some communities one finds an occasional 
label, but too often even this has become illegible and 


127 


128 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


useless through the action of the elements. In other 
instances, one will find labels which confine themselves 
to scientific names, quite out of reach of the everyday- 
citizen. It is hard to picture the school child or the casual 
park visitor growing enthusiastic upon reading a label 
which solemnly proclaims a tree to be u Ulmus Americana” 
On the other hand, there is something definite and satis¬ 
fying in a label showing the tree to be a good, old-fash¬ 
ioned American Elm, of the type made immortal by the 
poets and holding deathless place in the pages of American 
history through association with men and events of 
distinguished memory. Liquidambar styraciflua hamameli- 
daceoe would leave the average person unmoved and 
unimpressed, but Sweet Gum is a name known to all of 
us and well calculated to cause a feeling as of a handshake 
with an old friend. 

To give labels their true educational worth their use 
should be systematic and uniform. They should include 
all the trees of the community, whether in parks, on 
squares or on the streets. They should be in simple form, 
easily read and durable. The information given on each 
label should be suited to both student and layman. To 
cover these various points involves: 

1. Centralized action by municipal authorities or by joint 

undertaking on the part of individual property owners. 

2. Labels of such material and design as will insure perma¬ 

nent legibility. 

3. Information covering the common name of each tree, 

its scientific name, and the part of the world to which 
it is native, as for example: “Norway Maple, {Acer 
platanoides ), Europe.” 

The National Capital has undertaken to set an exam¬ 
ple of effective shade tree labelling. In line with sugges¬ 
tions that the park trees of the District of Columbia 


LABELLING SHADE TREES 


129 


should be marked for the benefit of park visitors, a plan 
to achieve this end has been made operative by the 
Division of Public Buildings and Grounds. The details 
of the Washington system will be of suggestive help to the 
authorities of other cities. Lieutenant Colonel C. O. Sher¬ 
rill, U. S. A., 
describes the 
plan as fol¬ 
lows: 

“The label 
consists of a 
base so de¬ 
signed as to be 
bent approxi¬ 
mately to fit 
the particular 
tree on which 
it is used. On 
the face of this 
base is riveted 
a plate upon 

which will have been previously stamped the botanical and 
the common names of the tree. The plate is then fastened 
with screws to the trunk of the tree, sufficiently high up 
to prevent it from being damaged by children, and yet 
not too high to be clearly seen by persons interested in 
tree nomenclature. 

“A number of different methods have been tried in the 
District for labelling trees, but none have ever proven 
entirely successful, for the reason that some became 
detached and carried away by souvenir seekers. It is 
believed that the size and weight of this label, and the 
printing on its face, which clearly indicates the fact that 
it belongs to the Government, will deter souvenir hunters 
9 



Tree marker used in Washington, D. C. 





130 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


from carrying these labels away. If the plate containing 
the name alone should be pried loose it can be readily 
replaced at very small expense. The screws used to 
attach the label to the tree are placed one above the other 
so that the growth of the tree will not pull them out, and 
it is believed that they will not do any damage to the 
tree.” 

Let us hope that tne example of the District of Colum¬ 
bia will have its helpful influence on other cities through¬ 
out the United States. 

If the trees could speak it is a safe guess that they 
would hail their labels as good advertising. The sight of 
a fine specimen of shade tree is apt to inspire people 
with the desire to possess trees of similar beauty. This is 
where the advertising value of the label becomes mani¬ 
fest. Its definite information as to species and variety 
brings within public reach the added possibility of gracing 
the community with trees of the type most wanted. Tree 
labels are desirable from every point of view. 


CHAPTER XIII. 

CARING FOR SHADE TREES 

HE tree planter’s responsibility continues from the 



1 time of planting until the tree dies. The young tree 
must be cared for and protected with willing hand and 
guided to full development. The neglected tree has little 
chance. The one way in which planting may be made 
successful is by meeting the tree’s needs as they arise or 
anticipating them. No other method can be depended upon 
to produce satisfactory results. 

Some of the fundamental requirements of successful 
shade tree growth are moisture, nourishment, cultivation 
and protection. These involve the tree’s very existence. 
It is a waste of time and money to undertake planting 
without a determination to give close attention to these 
essentials. 

Watering begins at the time of planting. After this 
first supply of moisture is given, the young tree should be 
watered with unfailing regularity in dry climates and 
occasionally in humid climates, if drouth occurs soon 
after planting. This is especially important during the 
first season’s growth, when the tree is adjusting itself 
to its new environment and is fighting to gain permanent 
foothold in its strange surroundings. Water not only 
supplies moisture, but also conveys into the tree, through 
root absorption, the mineral elements and plant food 
necessary to growth. In watering, it must be borne in 
mind that the roots of a tree are more extensive, and 
deeper in the ground, than those of other plants. For 
this reason, more water is required to reach the entire 
root system. The quantity of water needed varies with 


132 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


species. Trees which have roots near the surface require 
more water than those with roots which penetrate more 
deeply, and the trees of rapid growth demand more than 
those which grow slowly. As a general rule, watering 
should be done every week or ten days when copious 
rains are lacking. Too frequent application of water is 
as bad as not watering enough, since excessive supply 
causes the earth at the roots to become soggy and sour. 
During the first year from ten to fifteen gallons of water 
should be applied each time. 

The water should be applied gradually and so 
thoroughly that it will soak into the ground for at least 
one and one-half feet. A gradual application is best for 
the reason that it resembles Nature’s methods. Heavier 
application will wash the soil away from the roots near 
the surface and cause the formation of a hard top crust 
of earth. The water should be encouraged to filter 
through the soil. This may be done by using moderately 
light soil and keeping the top soil pulverized. A simple 
method of applying water to a small number of trees is 
to allow it to run slowly through a small opening near 
the bottom of a barrel placed near the base of each tree. 
Another method, which will be found simpler in watering 
a large number of trees, is to make a basin of earth, 
surrounding the base of each tree, and fill this with water. 
In following either plan, it is desirable to smooth the 
surface after the water has penetrated to prevent the 
formation of a crust; and to cover the wet soil with dry, 
fine soil or a mulch of leaves and straw, to conserve the 
moisture by preventing evaporation. 

In some cities underground irrigation is provided by 
means of tile drains, supplied with water from the city 
mains. This is effectual and especially useful in streets 
where the paving takes up the entire surface area. 


CARING FOR SHADE TREES 


i33 


Akin to watering, and closely related to it in impor¬ 
tance, is cultivation of the soil at the base of the tree. 
The ground must be kept free from weeds and sufficiently 
loose to permit air to reach the roots. Loose soil holds 
moisture much better than soil which is allowed to pack 
and form a solid surface. Closely packed soil causes the 
moisture to rise to the surface and evaporate, while loose 
soil gives the roots the full benefit of it. Lack of cultiva¬ 
tion of the soil may be set down as one of the most frequent 
causes of failure in the growing of trees. On the other 
hand, careful and oft-repeated cultivation will often insure 
success where the handicaps of environment are most 
serious. Constant cultivation is needed during the first 
summer of the young tree in its new location. To accom¬ 
plish this, the soil should be kept well crumbled to a depth 
of three or four inches, in an area extending from the base 
of the tree as far as the roots reach. 

The nourishment taken from the soil by root absorp¬ 
tion may be augmented to good advantage by covering 
the surface around the base of the tree in the autumn 
with mulch containing well-rotted manure. In the spring 
this should be turned into the soil, where it serves the 
double purpose of furnishing added nourishment and 
of rendering the soil more porous. Instead of the manure, 
chemical fertilizer may be used, but it lacks the organic 
matter contained in manure. A good mixture for most 
trees in light soil is made up of equal proportions of 
nitrate of soda, acid phosphate, muriate of potash and 
ground bone. This should be applied in the spring 
with the exception of nitrate of soda which should be 
applied only when roots are active. The amount required 
for the individual tree will be from 1^ to 2 ounces of 
the mixture for a tree occupying a space of 8 square 
feet. If the nitrate of soda is applied separately %. to % 


134 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


ounce per tree may be used. Nitrate of soda is a strong 
plant stimulant so needs to be used in small quantities at 
any one time but can be used more frequently. A year’s 
supply of the other ingredients may be applied at one time, 
using 4 to 12 ounces of the mixture per tree. For heavier 
soil the same ingredients are used but in different propor¬ 
tions, the formula calling for two parts of nitrate of soda, 
three parts of acid phosphate, one part muriate of potash 
and two parts of bone meal. The quantity to be used for 
each tree is the same as in the case of the lighter soil. 
This fertilizer should be evenly distributed and mixed 
into the soil in a thorough manner. Too liberal use of 
the chemical mixture will injure the roots. 

Protection from injury is essential to the young tree 
on the city thoroughfare. All of us have seen boys swing¬ 
ing on the slender stems as if the trees had been planted 
as a part of a public gymnasium. We have seen trees 
bent down till their tops touched the ground, by those 
who find pleasure in watching the flexible stem fly back 
to an upright position. We have seen trees die as a result 
of these and similar abuses, because of the loosening of the 
roots just at the time when it is most important that they 
should be allowed to gain firm foothold. We have seen 
men tie horses to the slender trees and have found the 
horses nibbling at the bark, to the serious injury of the tree. 
The horses are not to blame, of course, but this is no 
comfort to the man whose tree is ruined in the process. 

It was to prevent injuries from these and similar 
causes that the tree guard was invented. The loss of 
bark caused by horse bites frequently causes a wound 
which affects the tree’s whole future. With the growth of 
the trunk the old wound accumulates thick edges, invites 
decay and permits the entry of borers and the growth 
of fungus diseases. The death of the tree is apt to follow, 


CARING FOR SHADE TREES 


i35 

and all because one horse was hitched to the unprotected 
stem. A tree guard would have made the damage 
impossible. 

Guards are of various styles. . Each type has its 
advocates, but any guard which prevents injury from 
outside sources serves its purpose. One of the most 
familiar varieties is a four cornered box made of upright 



Types of tree guards 


strips of board, anchored to four stakes driven firmly into 
the earth. This is a combined guard and support. For 
the purpose of keeping the young tree in an upright posi¬ 
tion, the stem is fastened to the top of the guard at each 
corner. Galvanized wire netting is much used for guards, 
and in some cities this is reinforced with sheet iron for 
a couple of feet at the base, to provide protection from 
dogs. Guards of iron or other metal are made in many 
styles and designs. The type is relatively unimportant, 
as long as it furnishes complete protection and is not 
distinctly unsightly. 

Contradictory though it may sound, the tree must also 
be protected against the guard itself. If the flexible 
young stem is permitted to sway in the wind and rub 
against the edges of the guard, abrasions of the bark will 























































136 TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 

occur, which may prove as serious as the injury which 
might have been suffered if the tree had been left unpro¬ 
tected. This swaying must be prevented by fastening 
the stem to the guard itself, or to an upright stake firmly 
implanted in the ground alongside the tree. If the guard 
is sufficiently strong and is well anchored in the soil, 
attachment to the guard is best. If not, then attachment 
to a strong stake is the best anchor. This stake should be 
about nine feet in length and sunk into the ground to a 
depth of at least three feet, to give it the solid footing 
necessary for stout support. For fastening the tree to this 
stake or to the guard, nothing better can be found than 
loops of old rubber hose, which are excellently suited for 
the purpose by reason of softness and flexibility. Soft 
leather or rope may be used but care must be taken to 
keep from binding the tree too tightly. A length of rope 
or wire slipped through a rubber hose also serves the pur¬ 
pose well, but wire should not be used unless so protected. 
The stake may be either inside or outside the tree guard. 
This will depend on the size of the guard, as the stake is 
to be placed about ten inches from the tree. To prevent 
decay the stake should be tarred or creosoted at the lower 
end, with the coating covering the part which is to be 
underground and extending for a few inches above the sur¬ 
face as well. Creosote is probably better than tar because 
it penetrates the wood while tar merely covers the surface. 
The stems of young saplings make the best stakes as they 
are likely to be stronger than sawed lumber but they are 
difficult to obtain. In attaching a tree to a single stake, 
the hose or other attachment should be put on in the form 
of a figure 8, so that two bands of the tying material 
intervene between the stake and tree and thus help to 
prevent chafing. When a guard is used permitting two 
attachments, each one should be put on in the form of a 


CARING FOR SHADE TREES 


137 


letter U so as to hold the tree from possible contact with 
the opposite side of the guard. The guard should be 
kept around the tree for several years, until the trunk 
has reached a diameter of six inches at the very least, and 
in some locations it should be permanent. With the 
growth of the trunk careful watch must be kept to see 
that the tree does not become cramped or choked by the 
guard. Neglecting to remove a guard when it has been 
outgrown is certain to cause injury. In many cases, 
the expansion of a trunk within an unyielding guard has 
resulted in girdling the tree with a wound causing death. 

It is important to keep a guard painted and repaired. 
The need of repairs to this protective device is so fre¬ 
quent as to emphasize the danger to which the tree itself 
would have been exposed if there had been no such 
buffer to parry the blows. 


CHAPTER XIV. 

PRUNING SHADE TREES 

P ROPER pruning is essential to success in shade tree 
development. A tree may be well planted, duly cared 
for and abundantly nourished, but the result may be most 
unsatisfactory without judicious pruning. For insuring 
development of root and branch, for producing attractive¬ 
ness of appearance, for adapting size to environment, and 
at times even for enabling the tree to live at all, pruning 
is necessary. There is sometimes a distinction made 
between pruning and trimming. When this is done, 
pruning refers to that minimum of cutting that may be 
necessary to encourage the thrifty growth of the tree and 
encourage its development along natural lines while 
trimming has reference to changing or restraining the 
form to conform to architectural features or conditions. 

The underlying principle of pruning is the establishing 
of a correct relation, as to size, between top and root 
system. In nature a definite balance of this relationship 
is maintained. In the growing of the shade tree the 
planter must assist nature in order that both upper 
growth and root system shall be adapted to the area 
available. The pruning of branches and leaf-buds 
throws all the vigor of the tree into the remaining parts 
and results in more vigorous growth for both top and 
roots. In addition to this it is necessary that the tree 
should be trimmed for the purpose of creating a symmet¬ 
rical crown, graceful outline and a height of branch which 
will not interfere, in street trees, with sidewalk traffic or 
with wires. 

The first pruning is at the time of planting. Before 
the young tree is set out, both top and roots should be 
138 


PRUNING SHADE TREES 


i39 


given attention. If the roots have been broken or other¬ 
wise injured in digging or handling, the injured portions 
should be removed by clean cutting with a sharp knife. 
Healing and the natural growth of the root will progress 
from a surface which has been cleanly cut, while decay 
and death are likely to follow the ragged break or abrasion. 
For the top pruning there should be removal of all 
branches that can be spared. The amount to be pruned 
varies with species. Oaks, for instance, require much 
more cutting than do Norway Maples and Elms, but in 
many cases it may be said that three-fourths of the leaf- 
buds should be removed. This may seem drastic, but it 
is necessary for satisfactory growth. The purpose of the 
seemingly severe pruning is to reduce the amount of leaf 
surface the tree must support the first year. This 
decreases the amount of moisture that must be supplied 
to the top by the roots, and the lessened drain enables 
the root system to use this strength in becoming firmly 
established in the soil. In this pruning it is not always 
necessary to interfere with the shape of the crown, but 
even when it does involve such sacrifice the pruning 
should be done. Form can be regained after the tree has 
become established, but proper growth cannot be achieved 
without the preliminary pruning. New growth, to replace 
the branches which have been cut off will start close to 
the stem, and this serves a useful purpose through estab¬ 
lishing a compact top. Without this pruning the tree 
may not live, and even if it does survive, its crown will 
be ragged and its foliage lacking in density. 

In pruning at planting time, where only the end of a 
branch is to be removed, the cutting should be done 
immediately above a strong bud, and care should be taken 
to see that the bud which remains is one which points 
in the direction toward which growth of the limb is 


140 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


wanted. For the removal of an entire branch, the cut 
should be right at the remaining limb—so close that not 
even a slight stub remains. The cut should be cleanly 
made and should leave no ragged edge to delay healing. 
Any sharp knife may be used but a pruning knife is 
desirable and may be obtained at a hardware store. 
Pruning shears are clumsy for this delicate work and are 
apt to cause bruises on the young and tender tree. The 
pruning is more easily done before the tree is placed in its 
planting hole. 

Sometimes it will be found that with very warm 
weather immediately after planting the leaves which 
develop will wither and droop. This usually indicates 
that the growth of the top has been more rapid than can 
be supported by the transplanted roots, and additional 
pruning is needed to prevent the death of the tree. In 
this secondary pruning up to three fourths of the top 
may be removed, even though this reduces the tree to the 
semblance of a bean-pole. It is better to take this step 
than to have the tree die. After the roots have become 
established, the formation of the top will take care of 
itself. 

After planting, the tree should have annual pruning. 
Symmetrical formation of the top cannot be otherwise 
secured. As the tree grows it will be found that for 
graceful appearance certain branches must be held 
in check, while others must be coaxed into full develop¬ 
ment. The amount of light reaching a tree is an important 
factor in developing the crown. The strongest growth of 
branches is in the direction of the strongest light, and 
this must have consideration in pruning for development. 
It is well to remember, in planting as well as in pruning, 
that such part of a tree as may be shut off from the light 
can not have vigorous growth. 


PRUNING SHADE TREES 


141 

The yearly pruning calls for the removal of all crossing 
branches and all branches not so located as to aid in the 
formation of a well-shaped crown. If the tree has a 
tendency to form too dense a top, some of the inner 
branches should be removed. As a guide to this removal 
it must be borne in mind that too much shade is as bad 
as not enough. The top should not be allowed to grow 
to a density that will shut off light from nearby houses, 
nor prevent some sunshine from reaching the ground 
underneath the tree, nor should it interfere with the free 
circulation of air. It is important that this pruning be 
done early in the life of the tree, so that it may be accom¬ 
plished with a knife. To wait until later, when a saw 
must be used, involves larger wounds and slower process 
of healing. 

The total of such pruning on a normal healthy tree 
will be very slight, not averaging more than a cut or two 
per tree per year, most trees going for several years 
without needing a cut, but nevertheless they should have 
an annual inspection with sharp pruning tools in hand. 
Where two branches form a sharp fork, that is, if they 
almost parallel each other, one of them should be removed. 
If both are allowed to grow there will be danger of split¬ 
ting. No two branches or twigs should touch each 
other. Where there is such contact one should be cut off. 
If there is a tendency toward the formation of more than 
one main stem, or trunk, the pruning should remove or 
shorten all but the central stem in order to concentrate 
the growth in this main leader. If the upper part of the 
stem tends to bend downward, a short length of bamboo 
or small pole of other light, strong material, tied to the 
stem, will hold it in upright position. All shoots which 
develop along the trunk and the lower portions of the 
branches should be removed. 


142 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


Since the object of pruning is to promote vigorous 
and symmetrical growth, it is well to be guided by the 
principle that the aim is to produce a primary frame 
toward the center, with a surrounding framework. The 
primary frame will consist of one or more main branches 
from the stem, while about this will be several smaller 
branches grouped in a way to form a symmetrical outer 
framework. The primary frame should be in harmony 
with the habits of growth belonging to the particular 
species. Branches which do not conform to the character¬ 
istic shape of the species, and cannot be made to conform, 
should be removed. Branches which develop too rapidly 
to harmonize with the general framework may be held in 
check by removal of their ends. These steps develop 
the tree along lines in keeping with the natural growth of 
the species. This is always desirable, since pruning is not 
intended to alter the normal form of the tree. The 
best pruning is that which leaves the tree most natural in 
appearance, and in the long run makes it look as if it had 
not been pruned at all. An exception to this general rule 
is to be made, of course, in trees trimmed into formal 
shape and small size for narrow, crowded streets. Trim¬ 
ming for this type of trees should always be done by an 
expert. 

It is important that the trees should have a proper 
height of branching above ground and that the trees 
should be uniform in this respect. To achieve this it is 
necessary to pursue a policy of gradual removal of the 
lower branches. The removal of the lower branches 
should proceed with the growth of the tree from year to 
year, so that within a few years there will be 10 or 
12 feet of the trunk free from branches. This height is 
necessary in street trees for the freedom of traffic, and 
it is also important in the matter of appearance. Trees 


PRUNING SHADE TREES 


i43 


with low-hanging branches are far less effective than those 
which show clean trunks to the proper height. The real 
beauty of a tree-lined thoroughfare is lost if the branches 
are so low as to shut off the vista of stately trunks and 
graceful foliage. 

All wood which is either dead or dying should be 
removed promptly. A tree that carries a heavy burden 



of dead limbs loses vigor of growth, and has a ragged and 
irregular development. Imperfect limbs, also, should be 
removed. 

If a tree has not had the early advantages of pruning 
during its years of development, even belated pruning 
may be made to play an important part in giving it new 
vigor and added beauty. Such trees are apt to have 
branches which cross or interfere with one another. In 
cases of this kind, removal of the branches that can best be 
spared will strengthen and improve the others. On a 



i 4 4 TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 

mature tree the cutting should be done at a crotch, and 
the wound should be parallel with the stem from which 
the limb has grown. The cut should be as close as possible 
to the remaining branch to promote rapid healing and a 
good appearance afterward. A perceptible collar or shoul- 



Improper method of pruning tree. 

a. —Tree before pruning. 

b. —Limb cut too close resulting in bark peeling. 

c. —Unsightly wound caused by this kind of pruning. 

der will usually be found around the base of a limb, and the 
wound will heal most readily if the cut is made through 
this collar. The fact that the close cut involves a larger 
wound is less important than the lessened danger of 
decay and the better appearance which come with the 
absence of an unsightly stub. All cuts should be left 
with smooth regular edges and surfaces, as jagged, rough 
outlines or surfaces retard healing. When there has 
been a clean cut, properly made, a small wound requires 
no treatment other than waterproofing by painting the 








PRUNING SHADE TREES 


i45 


surface with a coat of shellac. This should be applied 
with a brush to the edges of the wound, covering the bark 
and at least half an inch of the wood. This should be done 
as soon as the cut is dry enough to hold the shellac, and 
within three or four minutes at the most after the 
cutting. The shellac serves to prevent loss of moisture, 
and since the cambium, or inner bark, will die if it is 
allowed to dry out, the coating is an essential step. 
Wounds more than half an inch in diameter require 
artificial protection during the process of healing. This 
protection is given by painting with shellac and following 
this by coating the center of the wound with coal tar, 
creosote or lead paint. The shellac forms one of the best 
protecting covers for the sensitive tissue between the 
bark and the wood where growth takes place, and which 
is called cambium layer or cambium. It is the least 
injurious to this vital but sensitive part of the tree of all 
of the substances now known. As it is not permanent 
when exposed to weather, especially moisture, it needs 
to be coated with one of the other substances mentioned. 
The shellac need not be applied to the whole wound if the 
cambium is thoroughly covered, including an inch of the 
adjacent wood. 

If the wound is large, it'should be sterilized by applying 
antiseptic after the application of the shellac. There are 
several preparations of this nature, and among these one 
of the best is creosote, which has a particular value in 
destroying the germs of decay and preventing destruction. 
The creosote is applied with a brush and should cover all 
of the exposed wood not covered by the shellac. On top 
of the shellac and creosote the surface should then be 
covered with a thick coating of coal tar to keep out 
water. This waterproof coating should be renewed from 
year to year, whenever there is a tendency to crack or 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


146 

peel. Even when no crack is apparent, recoating will do 
no harm, and it may prevent trouble from causes not 
visible. If shellac is not used the protective coatings 
must not reach the outer edges of the wound, where they 
will come into contact with the cambium as the latter is 
so sensitive to the chemical action of the material used 
for protection it may be killed by contact with it. It is 
a good rule not to allow the weatherproof applications to 
come within half an inch of the outer edges of the wound, 
except to cover shellac. The protective coating is applied 
with a brush, and if coal tar is used it is usually necessary 
to thin it by heating. Two coats should be applied, and 
these should be repeated from year to year until the 
wound is healed. 

In pruning it is well to start at the top of the tree and 
work downward, as this not only simplifies the shaping of 
the crown but also makes it easy to remove any limbs 
or branches that may lodge in falling. In addition to 
cutting close to the trunk or remaining limb, it is impor¬ 
tant to make a clean wound, free from projections or 
raggedness, as a rough surface will impede healing. Care 
must be taken also to prevent injury to the surrounding 
bark. Pruning saws are made especially for this work, 
but a rather fine-toothed handsaw may be used. One 
with seven teeth to the inch is good for most purposes. 
Pruning saws come with teeth on one or both edges. 
The two-edged ones should be avoided, as the back is 
liable to do damage in close work. Pruning saws sup¬ 
ported on a frame like a meat saw but with the blade on a 
swivel are especially desirable. 

Great care must be exercised to keep a limb or branch 
from splitting and breaking the surrounding bark. In 
removing limbs of moderate size this is best accomplished 
by sawing underneath first and finishing from above. In 


PRUNING SHADE TREES 


i47 


cutting off larger limbs, the first sawing should be from 
the under side, at a distance of 10 or 12 inches from 
the base of the limb. This cut should extend about half¬ 
way through or until the saw pinches too badly. This 
should be followed by a cut from the upper side, a few 
inches farther out. The under cut prevents the split, 
which is bound to occur when the limb falls, from running 
back to the base of the limb and tearing the bark at the 
juncture with the parent stem. After the limb has been 
removed in this way, the stub may be sawed off at the 
trunk or parent stem without danger of splitting. In 
the case of a very large limb, the part to be removed should 
be supported from above by the use of ropes to prevent 
it from falling and doing damage to branches beneath. 

Pruning may be done at almost any season, except 
when the sap is running in the spring. To prune in the 
spring will result in “bleeding,” or loss of sap. This is 
never fatal and it is questionable if it is often seriously 
injurious, except to the nerves of sympathetic observers. 
The most rapid healing will probably take place following 
late spring or early summer pruning, when the tree is in 
full growth. The slowest healing probably takes place 
following August cuts. Fall or winter are. favorable 
seasons because of the absence of foliage, which gives a 
perfect view of the inner branches of the tree’s framework, 
and because, being a relatively leisure time, the work might 
be more thoroughly and carefully done. 

The tools required for pruning increase in number with 
the growth of the tree. For the first pruning a sharp 
knife is the one tool necessary, and is best whenever it can 
be used. In subsequent work a pair of pruning shears will 
be found useful. Many of these shears have a single blade 
which works against a shoulder applied to the branch. 
The pressure of the shoulder to the branch should always 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


148 

be upon that part of the branch which is to be removed; if 
applied to the part which is to remain, bruising and injury- 
will result. Some shears cut with a sliding motion of the 
blade, resembling the motion of a knife, instead of with 
the crushing movement of ordinary shears. The purpose 
of this arrangement is to prevent injury to bark or 
surface. 

A pole pruner is useful as the tree gains height. This is 
mounted at the end of a pole 10 or 12 feet in length, 
or longer as needed. The cutting is done by operating 
the knife by means of a rope, while the workman stands 
on the ground. A spring serves to bring the blade back 
into position after a cut has been made, so that the blade 
is ready for another cut. This implement is useful for 
removing small branches and shoots. Of a similar nature 
is the useful pruning hook, mounted near the end of a pole. 
The curved cutting edge is on the under side of the hook, 
and the implement is used by pulling this blade downward 
over the branch or twig to be severed. At the end of the 
pole is a chisel, to be used with upward stroke and pres¬ 
sure. This chisel is convex, to prevent slipping. A 
pruning saw on the edge of a pole is also useful. Great 
care must be exercised in the use of the pole instruments 
to avoid letting them strike limbs or trunk, as serious 
wounds may result from such blows. 

For the removal of large limbs a pruning saw must be 
used. Saws for this purpose have spreading teeth, to make 
a wide cut. The ordinary saw makes a narrow groove, 
and lets the green wood bind the blade to an extent which 
makes sawing difficult. An ax should not be used for 
pruning. 


CHAPTER XV. 


INJURIES TO SHADE TREES 

T HOUGH a shade tree may have a thousand enemies 
and but one friend, its chance of life is good if that 
friend holds a determination to give proper care to injuries 
which the tree may sustain. 

The sources of injury to the street tree are many and 
persistent. City traffic aims countless blows at the trunk; 
overhead wires, snow, hail, sleet and windstorms are a 
constant menace to the branches and foliage; underground 
construction of pipes and conduits constantly threatens 
the roots; and, as if these were not enough, carelessness 
endangers growth in many ways that can not be enumer¬ 
ated. Wounds and injuries come from these various 
sources. These may be overcome only by careful attention. 

Even a slight injury may develop into serious results 
unless properly treated. For this reason, no wound should 
be neglected. Every injury which extends beyond the 
outer bark makes a place where insects, parasitic diseases, 
or wood decay or all may enter. Every broken limb or 
branch offers opportunity for attack. To prevent trouble 
prompt action is demanded. Here, if anywhere, is the 
need to apply the remedy before the trouble spreads, as 
it is not only the cheapest but also the only safe way. The 
neglected wound invites decay, which may easily prove 
to be fatal. 

Traffic injuries take many forms. When a street 
tree has outgrown the guard of its youth and this pro¬ 
tection has been removed, damage is possible. Horse 
bites are frequent sources of trouble, while other traffic 
dangers come from runaway horses or unruly automobiles 

H9 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


150 

colliding with unprotected trees, from draymen backing 
their trucks against them sharply, while porters or labor¬ 
ers scrape branches or trunk with merchandise in loading 
or unloading. Such carelessness will largely be curbed if 
it is known that an alert official is watching the trees, and 
that punishment will be meted out for damage done. 

The top of a tree may sustain either direct or indirect 
injury from overhead wires. Linemen should not be 
allowed to cut limbs for the stringing of wires, nor should 
they be permitted to attach wires to any part of a tree. 
In most cases it will be found that the apparent necessity 
for either of these things can be averted by careful con¬ 
sideration of other ways and means for the placing of 
the wires. Even when this is done, it is sometimes neces¬ 
sary that wires pass through a tree-top, and in such cases, 
close watchfulness is required, and if trimming is essential, 
it should be done by the city employees, not by the 
linemen. A swaying wire may cause serious abrasion, 
with possible death for the part affected, especially after 
insulation is worn from electric light or power wires. 
Linemen should never be permitted to wear spurs in 
climbing trees, as the sharp points make serious wounds 
in bark and wood through which disease and decay could 
enter. Broken limbs and split or torn bark are sequels 
to severe storms or heavy snowfall, and many trees have 
been lost as a result of neglect to care for the wounds. In 
most cases the loss was needless. Even when badly mu¬ 
tilated, trees may be saved for long careers of usefulness 
and beauty if given prompt and intelligent attention. 

Injury to the roots occurs in the installation of sewers 
and conduits, the laying of gas and water pipes, the plac¬ 
ing of paving in street or on sidewalk, the changing of 
grade, and similar types of construction. Work on these 
improvements is almost certain to cause the cutting or 


INJURIES TO SHADE TREES 151 

mutilation of roots. Such injuries require immediate 
attention. The injured parts must be removed or freed 
from ragged edges to facilitate the process of healing, and 
in extreme cases by a corresponding trimming of the top, 
to reduce the foliage demands to correspond with the 
lessened power of the root system. In planning construc¬ 
tion work which threatens damage to the roots of trees, 
the harm may frequently be averted by suiting the plan 
of work to the existence of trees. Contractors should not 
be allowed to excavate near a tree, for any purpose, with¬ 
out the approval of the civic authorities. If the commun¬ 
ity has a shade tree department, the entire work should 
be under the supervision and control of that branch of 
the local government. Through consultation and cooper¬ 
ation—and through compulsion, if need be—much damage 
can be prevented. In underground construction, and even 
in widening a street or changing a grade, it is often possible 
to modify plans in a way to save trees which would have 
been sacrificed if there had been no municipal control. 

Underground damage does not always start below the 
surface, but it may come from above, as in the case of 
salt water from ice-cream freezers emptied near the base 
of the tree or calcium chloride or sodium chloride (common 
salt) applied to the surface of roads and walks to keep 
down dust. These substances are very injurious to the 
roots of trees and other plants, as is also water in which 
much of either is dissolved. Road oils also have to be 
handled carefully in the neighborhood of trees to prevent 
injury to the roots. Salt should never be used for melting 
ice or snow on a sidewalk near trees, as the brine thus 
formed will injure any roots that it reaches. Precaution is 
necessary in connection with drainage from mortar beds 
placed near trees. Water saturated with lime must not be 
permitted to reach nearby root systems, as the lime will 
cause serious injury. 


152 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


Gas leaks are a frequent source of underground damage. 
Prevention of trouble from this source and treatment 
for the overcoming of injuries are detailed in Chapter xvn. 

Much of the damage to shade trees is purely man¬ 
made, ranging from the wounds caused by careless use of 
the pruning-hook to those incidental to building construc¬ 
tion. In the erection of a new building a tree is liable to 
various forms of mistreatment—all of them injurious and 
preventable, as using a tree as part of a scaffold or allow¬ 
ing guy wires or ropes to be fastened to its trunk, piling 
of stone, bricks or other building material against it or 
striking with the hubs, double-trees or fenders of delivery 
vehicles. If, under the stress of extreme and unusual con¬ 
ditions, it should be necessary to permit the use of a tree 
as a substitute for the support of a guy wire, ample protec¬ 
tion should be provided in the form of substantial strips 
of wood, placed vertically and in such way as to keep the 
cutting force from reaching the bark. To use a padding 
of burlap or other textile fabric, as is sometimes done, 
fails to furnish adequate protection, as the strain pene¬ 
trates this soft material and often causes serious damage. 
If the piling of stone, bricks, sand, lumber or other build¬ 
ing material is a necessity due to limited space or other 
unavoidable causes, the tree must be protected by strong 
wooden guards to prevent cutting or bruising the trunk. 

All of these injuries can be avoided. When the damage 
has been done the important step is at once to repair the 
injury and apply the means of healing. Prompt action 
simplifies the healing process and improves the tree’s 
chance for complete recovery. When bark is torn or 
broken, all ragged or loose bark should be trimmed with a 
sharp knife or a gouge, and the wound should be given 
protective treatment at once by painting the exposed wood 


153 


INJURIES TO SHADE TREES 

with coal tar, creosote or lead paint as directed under 
pruning. (See page 145) Ragged edges of the bark should 
be pared cleanly with a sharp knife, before treatment, as 
smooth edges heal much better than those which are 
uneven. If the wood has been injured, the damaged part 
should be cleaned out with a knife or gouge before the 
treatment is applied. Bark which 
is merely bruised, but not torn or 
broken, requires no treatment. 

In paring the bark around the 
edges of a wound, special care must 
be taken with the lower edge, as it 
is particularly important that this 
part should be smooth in outline 
and should have no tongues pro¬ 
jecting upwards. The bottom of 
the opening should be rounded 
downward, or better, pointed, and 
its center should be its lowest part. 

This is necessary in order that it 
may more easily receive nourish¬ 
ment from the down-flowing sap. The flow of sap is in two 
directions. Moisture taken from the soil by the roots 
carries its contribution of mineral salts upward, mainly 
through the sapwood to the leaves, and returns towards 
the earth, mainly through the inner bark, after having 
been changed in the leaves by the addition of carbon 
products, taken from the air under the influence of sun¬ 
light. On its downward journey, this altered sap con¬ 
veys and distributes materials essential to growth that 
were prepared in the leaves. The sap travels most 
readily in straight lines, and because of this tendency the 
sides and upper edge of a wound fare best in the matter 



Proper healing of wound in a tree. 



154 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


of receiving nourishment, while the lower edge is out of the 
direct channel and is less generously supplied. Thus it is 
obvious that a tongue of bark, projecting above the lower 
edge of a wound or bark below a broad wound, cannot 
receive its share of sap, and must therefore languish and 
die. Even on the upper edge a projection is undesirable, 
but it has better chance than a similar tongue on the 
lower edge. From this it is clear that the wound should 
have its edges so trimmed as to make as little top and 
bottom as possible. In other words, the wound which 
has its longest dimension parallel with the limb and the 
shortest dimension across it, is the one which will heal 
most rapidly. These factors should be borne in mind in 
trimming the edges. 

In connection with injuries to the bark it must be 
remembered that bark which has been seriously damaged, 
or which has been torn loose from the trunk, can never 
be made to resume its growth. Efforts are sometimes 
made to induce growth by fastening the bark to the tree 
with nails or otherwise. This not only does no good, but 
works still further damage by making an attractive rendez¬ 
vous for insects and decay. The only thing to do in a case 
of this kind is to cut away the loose and injured bark and 
apply protective coverings. 

Freezing sometimes does more or less serious harm to 
trees which have been transplanted from warm climates 
into regions of severe cold. Cracks or splits in the bark 
and wood, caused by alternate freezing and thawing, 
invite disease and decay. The wounds should be treated 
as soon as they become apparent, which is usually during 
the summer, when the bark splits away from the wood. 
Injured parts should be cut away and the surface given 
a protective coating. Wrapping the trunk of a tree with 
burlap or straw, before cold weather, will prevent frost 


155 


INJURIES TO SHADE TREES 

damage, not by keeping the tree warm as many suppose, 
but by protecting it from the sun’s rays during the day, thus 
preventing so much variation in temperature between day 
and night. This is especially helpful when the day tem¬ 
perature in the sun is well above freezing and the night 
temperature several degrees below. Shading the south 
side of a trunk is often sufficient to protect against frost 
cracks or sun scald. 

In old trees it frequently happens that the bark near 
the base comes loose from the trunk, preventing a proper 
flow of sap downward and forming a hiding place for 
insects which endanger the life of the tree. Loosened 
bark may be detected by tapping with a metal object. 
If the taps produce a hollow sound, easily recognizable 
when contrasted with the sound of taps on a healthy tree, 
the loosened bark must be removed and the wound treated 
with some protective material as already discussed. 

For the repair of all injuries, and even for the chance 
to live, the street shade tree needs and merits a friend. 
In a town or city where there is a shade tree department, 
the friendly offices of healing and repair are best exercised 
by the constituted authorities. Where there is no such 
department, the tree must look to its next of human kin— 
the property owner or nature lover who transplanted it 
into its strange environment and who profits most by its 
existence and development. For him to withhold the 
needed help is to nullify the effort of planting. Such 
neglect is short-sighted and inexcusable. 


CHAPTER XVI. 


REPAIR OF SHADE TREES 


REE repair is comparable with both surgery and 



1 dentistry. For the amputation of limbs the use of 
the surgical knife is required; for mending splits in trunks 
or frame, the treatment is akin to the application of the 
surgeon’s brace; and for the prevention of further damage, 
due to decay, the human parallel is found in the filling of 
a tooth. 

In minor operations no particular technical skill or 
experience is necessary, but in the more elaborate repairs 
the work should be done whenever possible by one who 
has high technical skill, knowledge and experience. 

Just here let emphasis be placed on the importance of 
selecting the right man for intricate operations. None of 
us would entrust our families to the care of the casual 
stranger, who might happen along and represent himself 
as combined surgeon, dentist and mender of clocks and 
shoes. For the curing of human ills and the repair of 
broken bones we seek the best skill obtainable. Similar 
care should be exercised in the matter of helping badly 
damaged trees. 

This warning is founded on the widespread disaster 
resulting from the work of irresponsible, unscrupulous, or 
unreliable persons calling themselves tree surgeons. These 
are so numerous and their methods so damaging, that every 
tree owner or custodian should be on the alert to prevent 
his trees from falling into the hands of such “tree 
butchers.” The employment of a man who cannot show 
proper credentials or references, or whose skill is not 
known is equivalent to paying out money for the destruc- 


REPAIR OF SHADE TREES 157 

tion of a tree. Felling the tree with an ax would be 
cheaper and no less certain. 

The menace of the incompetent tree surgeon has been 
recognized by Connecticut and other states in the passage 
of laws designed to 
protect the public 
against his destruc¬ 
tive methods. One 
such law requires 
that no person may 
practice tree surgery 
or repair without a 
license, and that this 
license shall not be 
granted until the 
applicant has proved 
himself qualified for 
the work. If trees 
are worth having, 
they are worth pro¬ 
tecting from the rav¬ 
ages of the quack, and 
experience shows 
that this requires 
strict legal regula¬ 
tion, with severe 
penalties for the vio¬ 
lator. This sort of legislation seems as necessary for safe¬ 
guarding the welfare of trees as for the protection of 
human life and limb. 

The simplest surgical operation is the removal of dead 
or dying branches or decaying stubs, followed by anti¬ 
septic treatment and the application of a water-proof 
covering as protection against moisture and decay. 



Proper and improper tree surgery. 


























































r S 8 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


In removing a decayed or diseased branch, all the 
affected portion should be taken. The cut should be 
through sound wood, at a point back of the trouble, unless 
the decay extends into the trunk, when it will be necessary 
to dig out all the decay and treat it as a cavity. Care 
must be taken to make the removal of a branch in such 

way as will cause no injury 
to the surrounding parts, as 
discussed under pruning, 
and then treat the wound as 
advised for the treatment 
of large wounds in the same 
chapter. The treatments of 
other mechanical injuries 
that may be helped by prun¬ 
ing are discussed in the 
chapter on injuries. 

The splitting of crotches 
must be braced to prevent 
additional splitting and to 
permit healing. If the split 
is an old one, the first step is to remove all decayed or 
diseased wood from the wound, apply an antiseptic wash 
and water-proof the surface by means of an application of 
coal tar. Where there is neither decay nor disease, the 
antiseptic washing will be all that is necessary in this 
preliminary treatment. The next step is to brace the 
split part. In the case of a divided trunk, a single bolt, 
just above the crotch, will suffice if the split is small; while 
for a larger one, it will be found necessary to use one bolt 
at the height of the crotch itself, and a second a foot or 
more higher, regulating the location of the upper bolt by 
the size of the two stems, and their position in relation to 
each other. 



How to attach eyebolt and stranded wire. 




REPAIR OF SHADE TREES 


i59 


For applying the bolt, bore a hole through the center 
of the trunk, using a bit a half inch or larger in size. The 
larger the tree the larger the bolt required. At each end 
of the hole affix an iron washer about three times the diam¬ 
eter of the hole. These washers are affixed by cutting 
away some of the outer bark and wood and sinking them 
into the depres¬ 
sions thus made 
at right angles 
to the bolt. 

Into the hole „. . 

. Method of attaching eyebolt and stranded wire. 

insert a bolt 

which fits snugly, and of a length which will cause it to 
project from a quarter to half an inch at each side. When 
the bolt is in place, a nut should be placed on each end 
and these should be screwed up until they are tightly 
against the washers. Before the bolt is inserted, tar or 
creosote, preceded by shellac on cambium layer, should 
be applied to all exposed places, including those cut for 
the accommodation of the washers. The hole itself should 
also be tarred or creosoted. To complete the work, the 
exposed parts of the bolt and nuts should be water-proofed. 

Two limbs sometimes split apart where they divide, as 
a result of the force of wind-pressure. To check a split of 
this nature as soon as possible is important. The process 
is called guying. In this work the split is bolted in a man¬ 
ner similar to that used for bracing split trunks. 

For guying close to a crotch—within 18 to 24 inches 
a single bolt extending through both limbs may be used. 
In applying a brace further from a crotch, flexibility for 
the swaying of the limbs in the wind may be obtained by 
using a chain or cable attached to bolts instead of a single 
bolt. In this method a bolt is put through each limb 
with a ring or hook on its inner end, and to these there 




i6o 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


is attached a wire chain or cable of proper length to 
connect the two bolts firmly and to hold the limbs tightly 
in their relation to each other. By screwing up the nuts 
the connection may be tightened slightly, either at the 
time of insertion or in case of future need. Instead of 
the wire chain or cable connection, a turnbuckle center 

may be used, as giving more 
freedom in tightening or 
loosening the strain on the 
bolts, but this is practicable 
only when the limbs are 
quite close together. 

In guying limbs, as in 
bracing trunks, it must be 
remembered that a coating 
of tar or creosote should be 
given the hole and edges of 
the bark where cut. 

If more than two limbs 
are involved in a split, they 
may be guyed in combina¬ 
tion. 

Improper method of chaining a tree. Dot- T • r i . . • 

ted Une shows more effective method, b. bolt. it IS OI tile UtmOSt impor¬ 

tance that guying should 
never be done by means of an encircling wire or other 
girdle about tree or limbs. With growth of the tree the 
girdle will cut into the bark, interfere with the proper flow 
of sap and in time shut it off entirely and thus cause the 
death of the part above the girdle. To wrap a wire around 
a tree for any purpose is almost certain to cause death. 

When the loss of bark almost or entirely encircles a 
tree, a process known as bridge grafting may reunite the 
upper and lower edges of the remaining bark, and thus 
sometimes reestablish the flow of sap. The grafting is 




REPAIR OF SHADE TREES 


161 


done in spring, by the use of dormant shoots or twigs of 
the previous year’s growth somewhat longer than the bare 
place, affixed perpendicularly under the freshly trimmed 
edges of the bark to bridge the wound. The ends of the 
twigs are trimmed wedge shape, and these sharp ends are 
inserted between bark and wood, beneath slits in the bark 
above and below the wound. When properly placed, they 
form a bridge through which the sap may flow. To hold 
the bridge in place, a cloth bandage should be tied around 
each edge of the bark. To prevent drying, the ends of the 
bridging twigs should be coated with melted grafting wax. 
This wax may be made of four parts of resin, two parts of 
beeswax and one part of tallow, melted together and 
worked with greased hands, in cold water, until it becomes 
grainy. Success with bridge grafting depends upon close 
contact of fresh cambium layers of scion and stock at both 
ends, with immediate protection from further evapora¬ 
tion by thorough and careful waxing. 

Cavities offer serious problems in the life of a tree and 
require careful treatment. Minor cavities may be cared 
for by the layman, without previous experience, if simple 
rules are closely followed, but in the case of a large one it is 
unwise for the work to be undertaken by any but the 
technically trained expert. 

One of the commonest causes of decayed cavities is 
the protruding stub left from careless pruning. Unless 
the limb has been cut without leaving a stub, rot will start 
which, sooner or later, will spread its decay into the trunk. 
Similar results come from neglected surface wounds. In 
the course of time troubles thus started imperil the life 
of the tree. 

In the treatment of cavities it is most important that 
no trace of dead or diseased wood be allowed to remain. 
The basic principle is to make sure that all decay is 

ii 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


162 

removed. To leave decayed or diseased tissue will spoil 
the whole job. 

Repair begins by digging out the diseased or decayed 
wood. For this purpose the operator should be equipped 
with a knife, gouge, chisels and mallet. He should not be 
alarmed at the growth of the cavity brought about by his 



abode f 


How a cavity is caused and how to treat it. 

a. —Stub left after pruning. 

b. —Decay starting in stub. 

c. —Decay well advanced. 

d. —Cavity formed in trunk. 

e. —Section of trunk showing cavity. 

f. —Cavity cleaned out and ready for closing. 

digging, for it is necessary to remove the affected tissue, 
no matter how large the resulting hole may become. To 
make sure that the last trace of decay or disease is taken 
out, the digging should extend into healthy wood. On 
the outside, the rolls of bark which have grown up at the 
edges of the cavity should be pared off to a point even with 
the natural shape of the trunk. 

When the cavity has been cleaned, exposing a smooth 
surface of sound wood at all points, the cambium and 
adjacent parts should be painted with shellac; then the 
walls should be sterilized with copper sulphate or creosote 
applied with a brush. This should be followed by at least 








REPAIR OF SHADE TREES 


163 

two coats of coal tar over the shellac and creosote. If the 
cavity is shallow and so shaped that it will drain water, 
this treatment is all that will be necessary. It must be 
borne in mind that water is the great enemy of wood, and 
if the cavity is such as to permit the accumulation of 
moisture, an opening should be made at the bottom to 
allow any water to run out freely. 

A small cavity may be filled with cement mixed with 
sand, in the proportion of two parts of sand to one part of 
cement, and with enough water to make it plastic, or with 
tar and sawdust. To hold this filling, the inner walls of the 
cavity should be shaped in a way that will serve to anchor 
the cement by giving it a foothold, just as a dentist cuts 
grooves and angles into the walls of a tooth to hold a fill¬ 
ing. If the opening is smaller than the interior of the 
cavity, no particular anchorage is necessary, as the shape 
of the cavity will hold the filling in place, but with a 
cavity in which the opening is the largest part, a means of 
holding the filling must be provided. One useful form of 
anchor is made by cutting a deep groove in the wood 
immediately inside the opening and encircling the edges. 
This groove grips the cement and serves to hold it firmly 
after the hardening process has taken place. If more 
anchorage is necessary, it may be provided by means of 
flat-headed wire nails or staples, half-way driven into the 
walls, the projecting heads furnishing a grip for the 
cement. 

In placing the cement use a trowel and a tamping 
stick. The stick should be an inch or two in thickness and 
two or three feet in length, or of such length as may be 
best used in the cavity. After a two or three inch layer of 
cement has been placed at the bottom of the cavity, the 
material should be spread with the trowel and then com¬ 
pacted by use of the tamping stick. This process should 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


164 

be repeated in two or three inch layers until the filling is 
complete, and the tamping should always be directed 
toward the back of the cavity rather than toward the 
bottom. The filling should stop at a point even with the 
surface of the wood. To allow the cement to project 
outside the wood, so that it is flush with the outer surface 
of the bark, will delay the purpose for which the operation 
was performed, as such projection will prevent new tissue 
from covering the opening without first lifting the edge of 
the old bark and growing up over the cement. If the filling 
is flush with the surface of the wood and the cambium has 
not been injured, a healing callous will promptly grow over 
the edges, and if the wound is small this new growth may 
eventually cover the entire surface. In overlapping the 
edges of the cement, this new tissue completely seals the 
cavity and usually keeps out moisture in small cavities. 

After the cement has dried, its surface should be coated 
with coal tar, to prevent unnecessary absorption of water. 

Often creosoted wood blocks, sawdust and tar are used 
instead of cement and have some advantages, especially 
less weight, without marked disadvantages. 

If the cavity is long and deep, leaving little more than 
a shell of a trunk, the tree should be removed unless there 
is some very special reason for trying to prolong its life. 
If it is determined to fill the cavity, the tree should be 
braced and guyed and then the cavity should be reinforced 
by means of one or more bolts. A cavity less than two 
feet long usually requires no such reinforcement, but in 
those of greater length a bolt every two feet is desirable. 
The bolting is done in fashion similar to the process of 
bolting split crotches. The bolt should be half an inch 
thick, or even larger for trunks of considerable size, and 
must fit snugly into the hole bored for its reception. 
It should be placed where the nature of the cavity indi- 


REPAIR OF SHADE TREES 165 

cates the greatest need. The bolting should be done, of 
course, before the cavity is filled. 

In considering cavities and their treatment, it is impor¬ 
tant to remember that large cavities offer serious problems 
and give chances for complications, and that for this 
reason it is generally best to leave them unfilled or open 
but if it seems best to have them filled, it will be wise to 
place the work in the hands of an expert rather than to try 
to repair them without the special knowledge and experi¬ 
ence which are so essential. 


CHAPTER XVII. 

DAMAGE TO TREES BY GASES. 

I LLUMINATING gas is a frequent menace to the 
street shade tree. Leaky gas-mains or service pipes are 
common in town and city streets. The leak may come 
from defective construction of the pipe-line or it may 
result from the jars and jolts of traffic. The one thing of 
real value is a policy of constant watchfulness to detect 
trouble at the start, followed by immediate steps to 
prevent its further progress and to overcome the damage 
already done. 

This watchfulness must be exercised wherever a tree is 
neighbor to a gas pipe. That it should be an immediate 
neighbor in order for trouble to arise is not necessary, for 
the damage may spread for a hundred feet or more from 
the source of the leak. Frequently it is found that all 
trees and other vegetation within this distance are affected 
by the poisonous gas. The greatest injury is usually in the 
section nearest the leak, of course, but serious harm may 
be done at any point within the area through which the 
escaping gas penetrates. 

The extent of the damage and the rapidity of the 
spread of the gas depends on the size of the leak and the 
character of the soil. When a pipe becomes broken and 
permits the sudden flow of a considerable volume of gas, a 
number of trees in the general neighborhood may be killed 
within forty-eight hours. If the leak is small, such as 
may be caused by the imperfect joining of pipes, or by the 
separation of a joint, the spread is much less extensive and 
the progress comparatively slow. Sandy soil permits the 
gas to travel more rapidly and to extend through a greater 
area than does clay. 

166 


DAMAGE TO TREES BY GASES 


167 


The presence of a sudden leak of large volume, result¬ 
ing from a break in a main, will usually show itself through 
changes in the appearance of all vegetation within a nearby 
circle. When the tree is in leaf, a flowing leak of this nature 
may generally be located by noting where the damage is 
greatest, for it will be found that the leak is near the center 
of the area affected, and nearest the particular tree which 
appears to suffer most seriously. The exact location may 
then be determined by the sense of smell. 

When the trees are in foliage, gas poisoning which 
results from a sudden flow of gas makes itself immediately 
visible by the action of the gas on the leaves. As a result 
of the poison the leaves turn yellow, wilt, and finally fall. 
Later, the bark is apt to drop off in small patches, while 
dark blue stains may be found in the inner bark and in the 
roots. In the case of a smaller and more gradual leak the 
leaves turn yellow and droop, foliage is gradually thinned 
by the falling of some of the leaves, and a general 
appearance of unhealthiness and loss of vigor shows itself 
in the entire tree. 

While the signs mentioned may result from other 
causes, and do not always indicate gas poisoning, their 
appearance makes it important that an immediate investi¬ 
gation should be made for the location of a possible leak. 
The surest proof of the presence of gas is its odor, which is 
so pervasive that it cannot be overlooked and is not likely 
to be confused with any other scent. When there is the 
slightest suggestion of this odor, steps should be taken at 
once to locate its origin. Even if the sense of smell does 
not detect gas when the symptoms of trouble appear, a 
careful search should quickly be made for the purpose of 
determining whether or not gas is to blame. In this search, 
one or more holes should be made in the ground with a 
crow-bar, to a depth of three feet or more. When the 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


168 

crow-bar is withdrawn, the gas, if present, may usually be 
detected by applying the nostrils close to the hole; or, even 
more effectively, by inserting a length of pipe into the 
hole and drawing up the gases from the subsoil by inhaling. 
A lighted match should never be used in seeking a leak , 
because of the danger of causing an explosion. 

When gas is discovered, the possibility of saving the 
tree depends entirely upon the extent of the damage 
already done and the degree of promptness with which the 
remedy is applied. If the injury has not progressed very 
far, and immediate action is taken to remove the poison, 
complete restoration is possible. 

One of the first steps, of course, is to see that the leak 
is repaired and further damage prevented. Prompt report 
to the gas company will usually result in immediate 
attention to the matter of repairs, for shade tree destruc¬ 
tion by illuminating gas is recognized by the courts as 
constituting cause of action against a gas company. 
Many decisions may be found holding companies respon¬ 
sible for the death of trees and enforcing the payment of 
cash damages to the owners. The penalties thus exacted 
are useful in influencing a gas company to take every care 
to prevent leaks, but penalties do not restore trees and 
money cannot compensate for their loss. Frequently it 
will be found that the company, mindful of court decisions 
in awarding damages in similar cases, will cause its men to 
render first aid to the soil as well, with a view to preventing 
the death of trees in the immediate vicinity. This first 
aid is doing everything possible to free the soil of the gas 
which has accumulated. 

The elimination of gas from the soil is not an easy 
matter and sometimes it is impossible to bring the soil 
back to a state of freedom from taint, but usually it will 
be found that a healthy condition may be restored. One 


DAMAGE TO TREES BY GASES 


169 


of the best means of accomplishing this is to dig a trench 
6 or 8 feet from the tree and as deep as the lowest 
part of the gas main from which the gas has escaped. If 
the gas has penetrated the soil on all sides, this trench 
should completely encircle the tree. Otherwise it will be 
necessary for it to be only on that side from which the 
flow of gas has come. This trench must be open suffi¬ 
ciently long to give the gas abundant time to escape. Ordi¬ 
narily 30 days should be allowed for this. 

When the gas has been given time to escape, the trench 
may be refilled with the soil if it has been thoroughly 
refreshed. It is safer, however, to provide entirely new 
earth, fortified by the addition of well-rotted compost in 
quantity equal to one-fifth of the bulk of the soil. 

If these steps do not restore health, the tree should be 
removed. It is wise, however, to wait until an entire 
summer has passed before removal. In case removal 
proves necessary care should be taken to make sure that 
the gas is entirely eliminated from the soil, or fresh soil 
should be provided before planting a new tree. 

Atmospheric influences are also a source of serious 
harm to shade trees. Gases and vapors in the air often 
seriously damage and sometimes cause the death of trees. 
This menace is especially prevalent in manufacturing 
communities, in which stacks and chimneys discharge 
their gas-laden fumes and smoke. 

A very common offender is the smoke from soft coal, 
because of the large percentage of sulphur. The sulphuric 
acid resulting from combustion attacks vegetation. 
Smoke also causes trouble from soot, which is deposited 
on the leaves, obstructing light and clogging the breathing 
pores to an extent which sometimes results in asphyxia¬ 
tion. Heavy discharge of smoke also deposits soot parti¬ 
cles on the ground, impregnating the soil with smoke acids 


170 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


and reducing fertility. Trees near factories and railroad 
roundhouses are particularly liable to damage from soft 
coal fumes. The evil effects of soft coal smoke are not 
severe in the neighborhood of small manufacturing con¬ 
cerns of the ordinary type, where the chimneys are carried 
well above the foliage. Also in humid regions the dust is 
washed from the foliage at rather frequent intervals. 
Nevertheless, coniferous evergreens and other especially 
susceptible trees do not thrive where soft coal is much 
used. The use of sulphur for bleaching purposes in an 
industrial plant releases gases harmful to vegetation. 
Injury is also sometimes caused by the fumes or other 
careless discharge of industrial wastes where naphtha, 
ammonia, carbolic acid, creosote oil and coal-tar or its 
products, or petroleum products are used. 

When damaged by atmospheric gases, young leaves 
first show discoloration and then slowly droop and die. 
The twigs show reduced rates of growth, and gradually 
this reduction becomes apparent throughout the entire 
tree. These symptoms are followed by the death of the 
twigs and sooner or later by the death of branches and 
trunk as well. 

Trees vary in their ability to resist injury from gases. 
It might be supposed that the slow-growing trees of sturdy 
nature would be less susceptible to this form of damage 
than those of rapid growth and short life. The reverse, 
however, has been found true. Among the trees which 
suffer most are the Oaks, the Elms, the hard Maples and 
the Lindens. At the other end of the scale, with the great¬ 
est powers of resistance, are such trees as the Poplars, the 
Box Elder, the Silver Maple and the Ailanthus, which will 
survive gas attacks where other trees would succumb. In 
England, the Elder has been found to be the tree which 
most successfully resists injury of this nature. It is obvi- 


DAMAGE TO TREES BY GASES 


171 

ous that where coal smoke and other harmful gases are 
present, tree planting should be confined to the varieties 
which are least damaged by the gases. 

Trees in the vicinity of cement plants suffer from the 
deposit of cement dust on the foliage. Dampness may 
cause the dust to “set” or harden, which results in damage, 
although rain is apt to wash it off. The gases from open- 
air furnaces, used for melting tar and asphalt, and from 
steam rollers sometimes do serious harm. 

There is no remedy for trees affected by atmospheric 
gases. Removal of the cause is the only way to put a stop 
to the trouble. The construction of tall smoke stacks 
helps to overcome the danger. 

Trees weakened from the effect of gases, as from other 
causes, are more subject to insect and disease attacks than 
are healthy trees. 


CHAPTER XVIII. 

TREE DISEASES AND THEIR TREATMENT 


I T is not possible that every tree planter should possess 
the technical knowledge required for the precise diag¬ 
nosis of every tree ailment, for this is to be gained only by 
special technical training and practice. The individual, 
however, may at least familiarize himself with some of 
the fundamentals. An effort is here made to furnish help 
along this line. 

Fungus growths on plants are of two kinds. One type 
—known as the parasite—lives upon wood bark, leaves or 
other live parts and takes its nourishment at the expense 
of the tree’s vitality. In thus feeding it robs the tree of 
its strength and vigor and brings about serious damage. 
The other type—known as the saprophyte—lives upon 
dead plant material. With this distinction in mind it will 
be clear that, with respect to fungous diseases, the par¬ 
asite is cause and the saprophyte effect. 

Fungi attack all parts of the tree, from roots to foliage, 
flowers and fruit. The results are of varying character and 
manifest themselves in various ways. Frequently, the 
location of the chief damage is altogether remote from the 
point of attack, since a disease of the roots will often 
manifest itself through dying leaves and branches at the 
top of the tree. The most common form of damage, how¬ 
ever, is localized and brings about the death of individual 
leaves or branches or causes decayed cavities which prove 
fatal if allowed to progress. 

A fungus starts from spores, or tiny organic dust-like 
particles, corresponding to seeds in purpose, which are 
172 


APHIDS OR PLANT LICE 


Painted maple aphid 

Drepanosiphum acerifolii Thos. 

1 Infested leaves of silver maple 

2 Adult winged specimen enlarged 

3 Nearly full grown nymph enlarged 

4 Younger nymph enlarged 

Chaitophorus ? aceris Linn. 

5 Infested leaves of Norway maple 

6 Wingless female enlarged 

Two-spotted lady beetle 

Adalia bipunctaia Linn. 

7 Larva 

8 Pupse 

9 Adult 

Woolly beech leaf aphid 

Phyllaphis fagi Linn. 

10 Infested beech leaf 

11 Nymph enlarged 

Elm leaf aphid 

Callipterus ulmifolii Mon. 

12 Infested elm leaf 

13 Nymph enlarged 

14 Winged female enlarged 

Transverse poplar stem gall 

Pemphigus populi-transversus Riley 

15 Galls 

16 Section of one showing plant lice within 

Periodical cicada 
Tibicen septendecim Linn. 

17 Side view of adult 

18 Twig showing oviposition scars 


SOU TFIAJfT ao aCUH^A 


olqr.ui betatu? 

,?odT Vito\VwMi 

oiqam lavlis k> eovxxot bojeolnl I 

1 . .rrr/ii nw g Mur xi' ;••>’/* t 

ba^isitto dqirr<n logm/oY ► 

MiUsX ahsoa S euioriqolbdC) 

x#nM Jo sovsol boJttlltl i 

oliood \bal baifoqs-owT 

.on IJ ottahk 


b.u.qfc la®{ fbotwl \IlooW 

,anU V, A i 

biriqa J.«oi mI3 

.quM VtVtymln untftqftlto i 

I/.g .!u-j .: rsui'/l LogalW 4 I 

* 

v*>li>' wttWiWMVi'wt^w^ 

alUO 2,1 

ttirfjiv/ iii ji f fiiq %ni*/od$ mo Jo ao - dt 
ab&ah Ifiriboha*! 

.nail ft'.: 7 v 6 V£ 

Jluba Jo woi f obi <Z \\ 

«t*ok aoLmoqtvo ) i'k ,rf» gir-. 81 


oqi» c l 8 

- .jb/ o 

bogiako riqrnxi-'t 11 

b;* 3 T«{u 9 i^qra^VI £i 



L. H. Joutel. 1905 


APHIDS OR PLANT LICE 







































































* \ 












TREE DISEASES AND TREATMENT 


i73 


widely scattered by the wind from a fungus already fully 
developed. These spores, lodging in wounds in bark, 
wood or twigs, or on leaves, send out rootlike threads and 
establish themselves in the tissue adjoining the wound, 
for their life work of feeding on the tissues and food manu¬ 
factured by the green leaves of the plant. The roots, or 
threadlike filaments force their way into the bark, stem 
or leaf in all directions and form a mass of meshed fibres 
known to science as the mycelium. It is to this fibrous 
mass that the damage is due, as it absorbs the life-giving 
food which is needed by the tree itself. When the mycel¬ 
ium has become firmly imbedded in the tissue adapted to 
it, it extends to the outer surface, through the original or 
another wound in the bark, and shows itself in the form of 
the familiar bracket, or perhaps in the form of a toadstool, 
a puffball (powdery-looking coating of almost any color). 
These are the fruiting bodies, which often produce millions 
of spores for creating new generations of fungus growth, 
and when mature, they release these dust-like spores to be 
scattered on the breezes and begin again their work of 
destruction in wounds on other plants. 

In the treatment of fungi it must be remembered that 
the fibrous mass within the plant is the cause, and the 
outside substance, or fruiting body, is the effect. Remedy 
calls for the removal or prevention of the cause. To 
remove the fruiting body does only temporary good, as 
another will quickly grow in its place. The only remedy 
is to cut out the entire mycelium. Where this is possible, 
and it is thoroughly done, the trouble will not come back. 
In applying this treatment, care must be taken to make 
the removal complete and to dress and protect the wound 
thoroughly, as outlined in the chapters on repairs and the 
treatment of injuries. 


174 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


The fungous growths which are most conspicuous are 
those seen in the form of shelves or brackets on the trunks 
and limbs of trees. These outward signs of attack do not 
show themselves until the growths have taken deep root 
in the interior, and their appearance is a sign that the 
damage has already made serious progress. 

Prevention of fungous growths is easier and more 
effective than subsequent treatment. In most cases the 
attacks have their starting points in wounds or scars. 
Without these wounds to furnish a place of lodgment, the 
spores could rarely gain foothold. Recognition of this 
emphasizes the importance of preventing injuries, as far 
as this may be possible, and the necessity for giving 
prompt healing and protective treatment to all wounds 
which may occur, in spite of precautionary measures 
which may have been taken. The development of injuries 
to bark or wood is akin to the progress of decay in a tooth. 
If immediate attention is given, decay is stopped. If 
treatment is neglected, a slight injury may develop into 
a serious and constantly growing cavity, with grave 
consequences. 

Fungous growths on trunk and limbs are of many 
varieties, but they have the same general characteristics 
as to origin, and call for the same action as to treatment. 

Some of the common fungous growths are known in a 
general way as heart-rots. These assume several forms 
and attack the heartwood of many trees such as the Beech, 
Aspen, Maple, Birch, Walnut, Oak, Hickory, Alder, Ash, 
Poplar and others. The Oak, Ash and Maple heart-rots 
so-called, are common on other kinds as well, so these 
names are not distinctive and are not generally recognized 
in connection with specific fungi. Likewise red heart-rot 
and white heart-rot are not used specifically for any fungus 
and are often misleading. 


SCALE INSECTS 


Maple phenacoccus 

Phenacoccus acericola King 

1 Clusters of male cocoons on sugar maple bark 

2 Females and young on underside of leaf 

Black-banded lecanium 

Eulecanium nigrofasciatum Perg. 

3 Badly infested soft maple twigs 

4 Young along sides of leaf veins 

10 Male, enlarged 

11 Full grown female scales showing characteristic markings, enlarged 

12 Young, enlarged 

Golden oak scale 

Asterolecanium variolosum Ratz. 

5 Infested oak twig 

Tulip tree scale 

Eulecanium tulipiferae Cook 

6 Badly infested tulip branch 

8 Recently hatched young, enlarged 

9 Young scales, enlarged 


7 Oviposition scars 


White flower cricket 

Oecanthus sp. 




MAPLE AND OTHER SCALE INSECTS 


L H. Joutel, 1905 



















































































































. 





















































































TREE DISEASES AND TREATMENT 


i75 


Slime-flux is an ailment frequently found on the Elm, 
Maple, Yellow Birch and some other trees. This is in the 
nature of an ulcer and is usually associated with a wound. 
It is sometimes found in connection with a defective 
cement-filled cavity. The ailment usually appears in the 
spring and is characterized by a flow of slimy, discolored 
sap from the opening. This slime forms a fermenting sub¬ 
stance which may be poisonous to vegetation, as shown by 
the killing of grass upon which it drops. It has destruc¬ 
tive effect on the bark and on the wood immediately 
beneath, and if it is allowed to progress, serious damage 
and even the death of the tree may be caused. The best 
method of treatment for slime-flux is to make upright 
incisions in the bark, close to the wound, for the purpose 
of draining the liquid as quickly as possible and perhaps 
introducing an antiseptic wash. After the flow has 
stopped, the diseased parts should be cut away and the 
surface sterilized and painted as with other cavities. 

Various trees are subject to trouble in the form of 
root-rot and other diseases of the root system. Root-rot 
is the result of a fungus, which usually enters through an 
underground wound. This fungus drains the vitality of 
the roots and eventually kills the tree or so weakens its 
base as to cause it to fall an easy victim to windstorms. 
Well-known symptoms of this disease are the hard, black, 
branching strands known as “shoestrings,” which are found 
interlaced in the roots, and particularly between bark and 
wood, and penetrating the surrounding soil. These 
“shoestrings” ultimately form the fruiting body on the 
surface of the ground, which takes the form of a mush¬ 
room appearing to grow from the soil. The mushrooms 
are easily recognized when fresh and complete, appearing 
in groups or clusters the color of honey. On each of them a 
distinct ring appears on the stem, just below the umbrella- 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


176 

shaped top, and the stems are swollen at the base. These 
two characters often are unreliable as the ring is frequently 
evanescent and the swollen base usually is not very pro¬ 
nounced. Trees which are badly afflicted with this form 
of rot should be cut down, and it is not safe to replant in 
the infected soil. 

Coral red spots about the size of a pin’s head on the 
bark of trees and shrubs are symptoms of a disease com¬ 
monly called Nectria Cinnabarina canker, a fungous 
growth closely related to the rusts of leaves, which finds 
entrance through small surface wounds. It produces bluish 
or blackish streaks in the wood. Once established, it has 
a tendency to spread to other trees or plants. This disease 
may be cured by cutting and burning all affected bark 
and wood and washing the wound with solution of copper 
sulphate, using 1 pound to 5 gallons of water. The exposed 
surface should then be coated with coal tar. As with 
other diseases, prevention is better than remedy, and if all 
wounds are promptly treated when created, the spores will 
find no means of entry. 

Black knots sometimes appear on twigs and leaves of 
Cherries, Plums and allied trees but rarely on shade trees. 
While they are not serious, they are unsightly. They may 
be controlled by cutting and burning in the early fall and 
spraying with either copper sulphate or lime sulphur before 
the buds open in the spring. 

“Witches’ Broom” is a conspicuous growth which is 
frequently seen and which impairs a tree’s appearance. It 
consists of masses of short twigs, so bunched as to cause 
them, in some instances, to be mistaken for mistletoe. This 
disease is caused by a fungus or an insect, often a mite. 
It may be controlled by cutting and burning the affected 
parts. Although mistletoe is a parasite plant it is not a 
fungus, but belongs to the group of flowering plants to 


Sugar maple borer 

Plagionotus specious Say 

1 Place where egg was laid 

i a Another more than normally discolored 

2 Borer or grub in September from egg laid the same season 

3 Nearly full grown borer 

4 Adult or beetle 

5 Hole through which the beetle escaped from the trunk 

6 Sawdust or borings packed in burrow 

Maple and oak twig pruner 

Elaphidion villosum Fabr. 

7 Grub or borer in its burrow, a portion of the twig being cut away to show its 

work. 

ya Small twig with only a thin shell of bark, the wood being nearly all eaten 

8 Pupa in burrow. The base of both twigs represented has been nearly eaten off 

by the larva 

9 Adult or beetle 

Cottony maple scale 

Pulvinaria innumerabilis Rathv. 

10 Active or recently hatched young 

11 Adult females, many eggs can be found in the woolly masses 

12 Leaf with many young scales on its underside 


taiocf »Iq/sm 
Xfi<2 ttttanbi&aFt 


bkf 8*v ;> j«i»dw soen i 

L 7<;i'. on nf-fir cnom torfJonA al 

nosjm i*mfia snit biti 5 >go moil “>i.7iMqo3 ni d q to toooH s 

)V i 

Jmm dill i :2 boq >;•>?.? of rood o : ; ibidv dqwotri:) Volf 3 
wot' i < I <v W> )«q aquhod to isubwtA d 

isxwrq .yw* also baa slqaM 

.TdJ./I mwwttV? 

ail worfa oj x*wu im gflidd qiwt 3>rto To ootn ; a , v rtud «i ni wod to d > x 

M T< .V 

flsrtco lift .Alton jjnbd boo* >d* ,3hstflw JMa nijrff a qlna njl ’ 7 ' qbr.t Ifc*t3 »x 

tlo ao.ij vfifion r >.d 9u{ bsJnoc-yiqot < 'wt dj- f »? d " r . / or < ! ai tqu^T 8 

:il vd 

ateaa alq&m x^otloD 

.vdjfiH is\\to*mm*w amwMw^ 

qnuox bodbjfiH xftn»Mn to #vir.\ oi 
«38:SBia XIIOOW 3<’; HI bjtl if! .r-jO Am ,8 .. 1)1 JllilA i • 
©b..’-t ..!.; ej] ;<> gni/ox vncnt djiv?U*xf :. j 


maple borers and cottony maple scale 




































































































TREE DISEASES AND TREATMENT 


177 


which its possible hosts, the trees and shrubs, also belong. 
Its part in romance and sentiment does not begin until 
the twigs reach the drawing room. On its host the mistle¬ 
toe is a parasite, sapping its strength and retarding its 
growth. The damage starts when the mistletoe dies, 
for in the process of decay it leaves a cavity which 
affords a means of entrance for other more harmful dis¬ 
eases. If allowed to flourish, mistletoe becomes a serious 
enemy. It may be controlled by cutting it away com¬ 
pletely and treating the cavity as recommended in previous 
chapters. 

Various fungous diseases attack the foliage of trees 
and these may be the cause of much damage, since it is 
through the agency of green leaves that a plant gets its real 
nourishment, and any reduction in the foliage decreases 
the tree’s food supply. In addition to this definite damage 
the loss of leaves mars the tree’s appearance. If the 
growth persists for a single season only, the damage is not 
important; but if it proceeds unchecked for several years, 
the tree becomes badly weakened and may die. 

Protection against these diseases is largely by means 
of spraying. The effectual materials are spoken of as 
fungicides, the most useful of which are Bordeaux mixture 
and ammoniacal copper carbonate. The former is the 
least injurious to foliage, while likely to discolor buildings. 
The latter is safer near buildings, but needs to be very 
carefully made and applied in order not to injure the 
foliage. 

Bordeaux Mixture. —Bordeaux mixture is composed 
of copper sulphate (bluestone) and quicklime, with a 
certain quantity of water. The amounts of copper sul¬ 
phate and of lime to be used with a given quantity of 
water vary somewhat, according to the kind of trees to be 
12 


i7« 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


sprayed and the disease to be treated. The following 
formula is quite satisfactory for general work: 


Copper sulphate (bluestone).pounds 3 

Quicklime.pounds 4 

Water to ma ke.gallons 5 o 


For severe diseases on trees with resistant foliage it is 
often advisable to use 4 pounds of bluestone and 6 pounds 
of lime to 50 gallons of water instead of the above formula. 

Directions for Making. —To make a single barrel 
of Bordeaux mixture, dissolve the bluestone in 25 gallons 
of water and in a separate vessel slake the lime and dilute 
it to 25 gallons. Then pour the two solutions simulta¬ 
neously through a strainer into the spray tank. 

If large quantities are to be used, stock solutions of 
the bluestone and lime should always be prepared, thus 
saving the time necessary to dissolve the materials. A 
stock solution of the copper sulphate may be made by 
dissolving it at the rate of 1 pound to each gallon of water. 
Fill a 50-gallon barrel two-thirds or three-fourths full of 
water and place a sack (or box with perforations in the 
bottom and sides) containing 50 pounds of copper sulphate 
in the upper part of the barrel, suspending it by a string or 
copper wire. In from 12 to 24 hours the sulphate will have 
entirely dissolved, and the sack or box should be removed 
and enough water added to fill the barrel. After slight 
stirring, the solution is ready for use. The stock lime may 
be prepared by slaking 50 pounds in a barrel or other 
vessel, and finally adding water to make 50 gallons. In 
slaking the lime sufficient water should be used to prevent 
burning, but not enough to “drown” it, and the mass 
should be continually stirred with a shovel or spading fork 
until a thin paste is formed. 

In making Bordeaux mixture, take the necessary quan¬ 
tities of the stock copper sulphate and the stock lime 





TREE DISEASES AND TREATMENT 


179 


solutions to give the formula in the total amount of water 
to be used and place each in separate elevated dilution 
tanks, which should hold half as much as the total capa¬ 
city of the spray tank. Thus, if the spray tank holds 200 
gallons, each dilution tank should hold 100 gallons; and, 
according to the above formula, 20 pounds of copper sul¬ 
phate (20 gallons of the stock solution) and 20 pounds of 
lime (20 gallons of stock solution) would be required. To 
each dilution tank add water (one-half the total amount 
of spray) and after stirring, allow the diluted ingredients 
to run, through separate hose or troughs attached to 
faucets near the bottom of the tank, into the strainer on 
the spray tank, where the two solutions come together, 
producing the Bordeaux mixture. Only the quantity 
which can be used during the day should be mixed, as the 
Bordeaux mixture deteriorates on standing. 

In case the dilution tanks are not elevated to admit 
of filling the spray tank by gravity, the diluted solutions 
must be dipped and poured into the latter by hand, a 
bucketful of each simultaneously. This method is advis¬ 
able in small operations, where a few barrels at most are 
needed. 

It is important that Bordeaux mixture should be 
thoroughly strained in order to keep out any coarse parti¬ 
cles that would clog the spray nozzles, and it is a good 
practice to strain the stock solution of lime while pouring 
it into the dilution tank. The best material for a strainer 
is brass wire netting of about 20 meshes to the inch. 

Ammoniacal Copper Carbonate. —The formula for 
ammoniacal copper carbonate is as follows: 


Copper carbonate.ounces 5 

Strong ammonia (26 Baume).pints 2 to 3 

Water to make.gallons 50 





i8o 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


Dilute the ammonia with about 2 gallons of water, as 
it has been found that ammonia diluted seven or eight 
times is a greater solvent for copper carbonate than the 
concentrated liquid. Add water to the carbonate to make 
a thin paste, pour on about half of the diluted ammonia, 
and stir vigorously for several minutes; allow it to settle 
and pour off the solution, leaving the undissolved salt 
behind. Repeat this operation, using small portions of 
the remaining ammonia water until all the carbonate is 
dissolved, being careful to use no more ammonia than is 
necessary to complete the solution. Then, after adding 
the remainder of the required quantity of water, the solu¬ 
tion is ready for application. 

Ammoniacal copper carbonate is a clear, light blue 
solution, which upon drying leaves little or no stain. As a 
fungicide it is inferior to Bordeaux mixture, and should be 
used only as a substitute for the latter, when Bordeaux 
mixture might discolor adjoining buildings or stain the 
foliage of ornamental plants or maturing fruits. 

Leaf spots or leaf blights are common forms of this 
type of disease. An ailment of this nature causes discol¬ 
ored spots on the leaves, often resulting in holes and some¬ 
times in the destruction and falling of the foliage. Trees 
especially susceptible are the Walnut, Elm, Maple, Horse 
Chestnut and Sycamore. On most trees the spots are 
reddish brown or darker. The remedy is to collect and 
burn fallen leaves, to destroy the spores and prevent the 
spread of the disease, and to spray with Bordeaux mixture 
to kill attacking spores as they start to grow. The spray 
should be applied during the dormant season, and repeated 
when the leaves expand, and perhaps again two or three 
weeks later. 

Another form of leaf spots results from anthracnoses, 
which affect the stems of young shoots as well as the 


TREE DISEASES AND TREATMENT 


181 


leaves themselves. On the leaves these attacks produce 
spots or holes, or cause the foliage to wither as from frost. 
This disease is especially prevalent on the Sycamore, 
where it follows the veins of the leaf and then spreads, 
causing the entire surface to turn brown. It often kills 
the shoots of young and tender growth, causing them to 
appear as if killed by frost, and may even kill trees. To 
control this disease, dead or diseased branches and twigs 
should be cut away and burned. Either Bordeaux mixture 
or lime-sulphur should be applied by spraying during the 
dormant season. Soon after the buds have opened, 
affected trees should be sprayed with Bordeaux mixture, 
and this spraying should be done a second and a third 
time at ten day intervals thereafter. 

Powdery mildew is not serious, except to very young 
trees and nursery stock. This disease spreads over the 
surface of the leaves, forming a delicate white web resemb¬ 
ling dust. It appears on the Oak, Birch, Maple, Poplar 
and other trees. It may be removed by application of a 
spray of one pound of potassium sulphide dissolved in 
fifty gallons of water. Either Bordeaux mixture or diluted 
copper sulphate also makes an effective spray, if applied 
two or three times in July and August. 

Leaf curl appears on Oaks, giving the leaves a blistered 
appearance. It should not be allowed to progress 
unchecked. Fallen leaves should be burned, and the trees 
should be sprayed during the winter with either copper 
sulphate or lime-sulphur. 

Rust is a fungus which in various forms attacks many 
kinds of trees, covering the leaves with brown and yellow 
spore-masses, sometimes causing the leaves to become 
ragged and unsightly. It attacks such trees as the Linden, 
Poplar, Ash, and other broad-leaved trees, and also many 
Conifers. On the Red Cedar it produces the reddish 


182 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


brown globular growths known as cedar apples. Treat¬ 
ment is not always necessary, but when it is needed, 
Bordeaux mixture should be applied before the leaves 
open in the spring, and several times during July and 
August, at two to four week intervals. Removal of the 
“apples” from Cedars in the early spring is advisable, 
especially if they are near apple trees, as the cedar apples 
can readily produce rust on apple trees. 

Leaf scorch is an ailment which causes young leaves 
and tender shoots to wither and die. It is apt to make its 
appearance during a dry, hot spell, following a damp 
spring. Many varieties of trees are affected, but Maples 
seem to suffer most. Helpful treatment may be given by 
keeping the soil well watered and freely cultivated when 
the dry season comes, so that moisture and air may reach 
the root system for the thorough nourishing of the tree. 

Poor soil conditions are the cause of many ailments of 
street shade trees. A common manifestation of trouble 
of this nature is known as stag-head or top-dry, which 
results in slow death of the top, producing an effect sug¬ 
gesting the bare horns of a stag. This is apt to indicate 
lack of water or suffocation of the roots. Enrichment of 
the soil, a plentiful supply of water and frequent loosening 
of the soil by cultivation, are necessary to bring about 
recovery of an affected tree. 


CHAPTER XIX. 

TREE INSECTS AND THEIR CONTROL 

T REES have several insect enemies. In a single season, 
if allowed to work unchecked, an able-bodied colony 
of these pests can undo the efforts of years on the part of 
man and nature. Fortunately for the welfare of the shade 
tree, most of the damage may be prevented or cured, and 
it is to the ways and means of achieving one or the other 
of these results that the tree lover will find he must give 
careful attention. 

Because trees in the forest generally thrive in spite of 
their insect enemies, it must not be figured that the 
shade tree may be trusted to care for itself. The two situ¬ 
ations are so different as to have little in common. In the 
forest the tree has nature’s equipment for defense, such 
as ideal conditions for growth and for the development of 
power of resistance to attacks, and birds and insects of 
many kinds to destroy the pests and thus help keep them 
under control. In the artificial environment of the town 
or city the tree is at a disadvantage. In many situations 
its life is a struggle for existence. It must overcome the 
handicaps of packed soil, uncertain water supply, crowded 
conditions, poisonous gases and the injuries of traffic and 
lack of bird and insect protectors. Thus hampered, it is 
not strange that the tree lacks the rugged vitality of its 
forest kinsmen, and it is not surprising that it should be 
less sturdy in its resistance to the attacks of insects. 

Damage by these natural enemies affects the tree in 
different ways, ranging from injuries so slight as to call 
for no attention, to the severe forms which prove fatal. 

To combat the ravages of the insects requires watchful- 

183 


184 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


ness. Proper care and attention on this point are essen¬ 
tial, and immunity from damage to highly prized trees is 
cheaply purchased by the application of adequate safe¬ 
guards and remedies. The real expense lies in neglect. 

Inspection of the trees from time to time is an impor¬ 
tant part of insect control. Careful examination some¬ 
times results in the discovery of insects which have not 
yet caused visible damage, and since early action is most 
effective, this discovery may save much trouble. In a 
community which has a tree warden or other shade tree 
officials inspections should be made as a part of the 
routine work. 

In a single volume it is not possible to discuss in detail 
every insect enemy encountered in all parts of a country 
as large as the United States. The most that may be 
attempted is to treat of those which are most common 
and general in their distribution, to show how these in¬ 
sects and their work may be identified, and to point out 
the remedies which have been found most effectual. 
Supplementary information may be obtained from state 
entomologists. Every state and territory maintains a staff 
of technical experts and research workers whose function 
it is to gather and distribute information as to the insects 
prevalent within that particular field. Similar work is 
carried on in even more elaborate fashion by the Bureau 
of Entomology of the United States Department of 
Agriculture at Washington. Specific inquiries through 
either of these channels will bring detailed information 
on local conditions which will often prove helpful. 

In communities where there is an efficient shade tree 
commission, tree warden, arboriculturist or other author¬ 
ity charged with responsibility for shade tree development, 
these questions will receive more immediate and more 
localized attention if placed before the proper official. 


White marked tussock moth 

Hemerocampa leucostigma Abb. & Sm. 

1 Side view of full grown caterpillar 

2 Male moth at rest 

3 Female moth laying eggs on her recently vacated cocoon 

4 Several cocoons 

5 Cast skins of caterpillars 

6 Work of young caterpillars on under surface of leaf 

7 Male pupa 

8 Branch girdled by caterpillar 

9 End of branch broken off at the point where it was girdled 

Forest tent caterpillar: maple worm 

Malacosoma disstria Hiibn 

10 Female moth with wings expanded 

11 Male moth with wings expanded 

12 Egg belt encircling twig 

13 Side view of full grown caterpillar 

14 Cocoon in a leaf 

15 Pupa 

16 Cast skins of caterpillar 


rftoflj itoosBui bsitiMm eiirfW 

.ra2 .ddA (x^moyromH. 

laffrqiotso nwoig fful lo woiy abt3 i 
Jeoi la Hiom olaM i 
r.vojo'j bouoev (IttWojt iorf ^jp qnivr,! riiom oh VI £ 

anooooo hnovo# $. 

U il lo rjshu* t obnu a o mfJiqiolr. j gnuox lo itoW d 

aquq oI&M X 

Ix^b-flq * * ii -J 1 7 m; { oiij t*i Bo >j*oid ibiwid to LnH q 

onow ilqBm : laliiqiotBO tnot j»no? 

bobnjoq, o egnifr rfji ,ijom ofamoT or 

■ 

1 J Smbifon* Jiod n 
lafiiqToJtD iiwcnji Iful lo woiv obi8 
kol a ni nooxO 

fiquT :i 

•udliqiolip to anuk isaD bi 































* 






















• . 

























































\ 












TREE INSECTS AND THEIR CONTROL 185 


Of still greater value is the active cooperation of the local 
authorities in detecting and fighting the insect enemies, 
and this value lies not only in the matter of technical 
knowledge but in the facilities for active combat, as well. 
The owner of a single tree rarely wants to go to the expense 
of buying equipment for spraying and other forms of 
treatment. For the municipal government to handle this 
work for all taxpayers reduces the problem to its simplest 
terms and produces the greatest degree of efficiency with 
the least cost to the individual. 

The importance of municipal treatment of insect pests 
is emphasized by the way many insects spread. It is not 
uncommon for all the trees of a given variety to be affected 
throughout an entire community. Treatment of an indi¬ 
vidual tree in the event of such an epidemic obviously 
accomplishes nothing. The elimination of the visitors 
from that particular tree may be complete, but renewal of 
the attack will be made by emigrants from infested neigh¬ 
boring trees which have not been treated. The only effec¬ 
tual measure is to treat all trees of the infested species, and 
this, of course, cannot be satisfactorily accomplished 
without centralized authority and action. This consti¬ 
tutes one of the unanswerable arguments in favor of mu¬ 
nicipal control for street shade trees, however small the 
community. 

In the absence of a branch of the local government 
prepared for such work, it is important for the individual 
property owners to act in close cooperation among them¬ 
selves, to achieve the best possible results and to minimize 
the cost to each of them. Community ownership of spray¬ 
ing apparatus and other equipment, and community 
action in undertaking to overcome insect attacks, will lead 
to a solution of many of the tree owners’ most serious 
problems. 


186 TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 

The spread of insects has not infrequently been due to 
their being carried on young trees from the nursery. For 
this reason it is important that all trees should be free from 
insects and diseases when they are sent from the nursery. 
Reliable nurserymen, in cooperation with state inspectors, 
endeavor to eliminate these troubles from nursery stock. 
As an added precaution many kinds can, without injury, 
be fumigated at the nursery before shipment. It should 
not be necessary to call attention to the worthlessness of 
panaceas by which all insect attacks may be prevented 
by injecting a fluid into the tree, or by driving special 
medicated nails into them. Fakers and rascals, passing as 
tree doctors, continue to extract much good money from 
a gullible public for worthless or even harmful ministra¬ 
tions. Imposition of this character has been so widespread 
as to cause more than one official warning to be issued 
against encouraging such methods. 

Insect enemies of the trees are of three types, which 
may be classified as leaf-chewers, sap-suckers and borers. 
The leaf chewers eat the foliage, the sap-suckers suck the 
plant juices from the leaves, stems, branches, trunk or 
roots, while the borers injure a tree by their tunnels making 
the openings opportunities for the entrance of moisture 
and decay, but what is more serious, often partially or en¬ 
tirely girdling the inner bark of the tree. In the three 
classes there are countless subdivisions, some of which 
require special discussion, but in general the methods of 
combating are essentially the same throughout any one 
class. 

The leaf-chewing insects may be destroyed by stom¬ 
ach poisons, applied to the leaves through spraying. The 
poison may be placed on the foliage before the insects have 
begun active operations in large numbers and be there ready 
for their first activities, contingent only on its not being 
washed off by rains. 


Elm Leaf Beetle 

Galerucella luteola Muller 

1 Cluster of eggs, enlarged 

i a Side view of single egg, more enlarged 

2 Recently hatched larva or grub, enlarged 

3 Full grown larva or grub, enlarged 

4 Pupa, enlarged 

5 Overwintered beetle, enlarged 

6 Fresh, brightly colored beetle, enlarged 

7 Leaf showing eating of larvae or grubs and a few holes eaten by beetles, eggs in 

clusters, cast larval skins and full grown larvae 

8 Leaf nearly skeletonized by grubs of larvae and on it three cast larval skins 

9 Leaf showing holes eaten by beetles 

Bag or Basket Worm 

Thyridopteryx ephemeraformis Haworth 

10 Bag or larval case as it passes the winter 

11 Same as preceding but cut open to show the pupal case and the eggs 

12 Several eggs, enlarged 

13 Recently hatched larva, enlarged 

14 Cases of young larvae on twig 
14 a Leaf eaten by young larvae 

15 Older larvae in their bags 

16 Full grown larva removed from its case 

17 Full grown larva walking with its case 

18 Male pupa, 

19 Female moth 

20 Male moth with wings spread 

21 Female pupa 

22 Bag of male hanging from a leaf and with the empty pupal case protruding 

from its lower extremity 


aIJ0®a[ iae J raia 

loIiuM t>\tavmtaO 



bosisiao , 83:30 \o tsJbuD i 
aiom ,330 af§aig lo n r obi 2 v. i 
bogie Ino t ding io e/i*l boifojeri (hnaaaJ*’ $ 
bog/iclm <drns jo eviel n hot% Ho i r 
t bog-ielno tftqwSE f 

bogielns ,oIj 33 cf bsioJai my/O ? 
bogielno t olrsod byioloo \foifgrid ,ii 3 D‘i I o 
ni .esbood \d nous 8olori> wsl r. bnc eding io snel lo gnbco gni-.voile IcoJ \ 
ssvTfil av/oig Uni bus &able levirJ Jae> ^ionuh ; 

■ -li :■ )d vd i '. m ; ,k»J gaiy/orf* IboJ Q 

nnoW IstfaaEI to g*3 

UjioweH xVww\smw0:;u\'\ 7 '.^A\^oVn^i\T 

i -miw odl eoatsq 3 x »e OgHD ic nrd io §x«.i or 
orli bne OiiiJ kquq orb worfa oi noqo 3 uo jud gaiboooiq tz 3ras2 li 

bagiclno ,2330 IciovoS si 
f/.’V'u.Ino ,,ovj.:[ barb: - l himofl £i 
S’ ai no SRvmf at; >-( \ 0 g >- r/J ^r 
aevifil gnxio^ -*d no 3 so leoJ »$.i 
egisd ibrfr ni *jevr*:I -rsblO ? i 
S3bo ?ji moil bovorM ' i fivix 1 : rrorg Qud[ di 
oeo ali rib// snub. . ! n 7/013 Hir'd \i 

#quq oifiM d'l 
ritoflfi sltfiial qi 
b£ 3 mq 8 agniw Hi hr :•■ >. oUM C£ 
fiquq trisma'l is 

r.'iibim j wco bquq vlqnu orit Ail.. bio: ‘ I r a .1 goign. • b> sm 

'{JirnoiJX3 iswol sii moil 


. Joutei. <900. ELM LEAF BEETLE AND BAG OR BASKET WORM 



1 IL 

^0 

£ 

■ 

N 



r 

x 










TREE INSECTS AND THEIR CONTROL 187 

The sap-sucking type, however, cannot be reached by 
poisons, so they must be killed by contact insecticides; 
therefore, they have to be destroyed by materials applied 
after they have begun operations, and every insect must 
be touched by the appropriate insecticide for it to be 
effectual. 

For the leaf-chewers and sap-suckers wholesale de¬ 
struction is possible, because their destructive work is in 
the open, on the outside of bark or foliage. 

For borers and others, which conduct their operations 
within the wood or underground, the measures of elimi¬ 
nation are aimed at the individual insect, by means of 
digging it out or by killing by the use of a wire probe 
or injection of carbon bisulphide. 

A point to be remembered in applying remedies by 
spraying is that the application must be thorough. 
Thoroughness means completely covering the leaves, in 
order to make certain that all the insects will be reached 
by the poison placed on their food, or killing the body of 
each insect by smothering with a contact insecticide. 

Effectual remedial measures require knowledge of the 
habits of the type of insect to be controlled. This knowl¬ 
edge should at least include the ability to distinguish 
between the leaf-chewers, the sap-suckers and the borers, 
in order to determine the steps that must be taken. In 
compiling the suggestions for treatment, which appear in 
subsequent pages of this chapter, an effort has been made 
to give data which will enable the layman to identify and 
classify the insects that may appear on his trees. 

Spraying materials may be bought at seed stores and 
other places. For small operations it is best, with most of 
them, to use the commercial preparations rather than to 
undertake to prepare them at home. In buying them, the 
highest quality should always be insisted upon. The 


i88 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


recognized standard preparations will give the best results. 
It is poor economy to use a preparation because it may be 
bought cheap, and it is unwise to experiment with one 
which is unknown. 

The Stomach Poisons. —The standard stomach poisons 
are arsenate of lead and arsenate of lime (calcium 
arsenate). Arsenate of lead is the one most used, because 
it adheres to the foliage longer than any other stomach 
poison, is highly effective, and does no damage to the 
leaves when used in proper dilution. Both arsenate of 
lead and arsenate of lime may be bought in paste or pow¬ 
der form. The powder is to be preferred for the reason that 
it is not injured by freezing or drying. These poisons are 
ready for use when purchased, requiring only the addition 
of water in proportions which will usually be found speci¬ 
fied on the label of the container. 

If there is preference for preparing a poison at home 
the formula for arsenate of lead is as follows: 

Acetate of lead.12 ounces 

Arsenate of soda. 4 ounces 

Water.15 to 20 gallons 

Pour the acetate of lead into a half gallon of water and 
the arsenate of soda into a similar quantity of water in a 
separate vessel. The contents of the two vessels should 
then be poured into a holder, containing from 15 to 20 
gallons of water, and well mixed. 

Because of their poisonous nature , arsenate of lead and 
arsenate of lime must he handled with care . Especial safe¬ 
guards must be used to keep them away from children and 
domestic animals . 

Contact Sprays. —For the killing of sap-sucking in¬ 
sects the contact sprays are required. These materials 
cause death to the insects by coating and clogging the 
breathing pores, by direct action on the nerves, or by caus- 





Yellow-striped oak caterpillar 

Anisota senatoria Abb. & Sm. 

1 Egg mass on underside of oak leaf 

2 Eggshells on partly eaten leaf 

3 Leaf stalk bearing shrunken larvse infested by parasite and showing the char¬ 

acteristic feeding of nearly full grown caterpillars 

4 Side view of nearly full grown larvae 

5 Recently hatched larvae feeding side by side and showing the skeletonizing in 

the earlier stages 

6 Male 

7 Female depositing eggs 

Buck or Maia moth 

Hemileuca maia Drury 

8 Side view of full grown larva 

9 Male, showing wings of one side only 

10 Egg mass 

Archips fervidana Clem. 

11 Adult 

12 Nest composed of partly eaten, curled leaves 

Serica trociformis Burm. 

13 Beetle on leaf 

14 Same 

Two-spotted tree hopper 

Enchenopa binotata Say 

15 Side view of adult 

Archasia Galeata Fabr. 

16 Side view of adult of a peculiar tree hopper 

Thelia acuminata Fabr. 

17 Side view of another tree hopper 

Dog day cicada or harvest fly 

Tibicen tibicen Linn. 

18 Side view of adult in resting position 

Acorn weevil 
Balaninus nasicus Say 

19 Adult on twig 

20 Same 




ifiUiqialsd jLbo baqhte-wolfoY 

.m3 36 .dciA tomtotm 

Usl Jfio k> obiaiobno ao ztam gg/I I 
lfi:>i rrjjK-3 •{[.n.'.q no *lbrf £ 

-*tr»ib r>ifj gntwoifc bn* 9lisu | x<f bsl^lal anal mrfnsn/b gnn.:, aIj la 1ao»I z 
mHiq-wJAD nwoig Uul b> gnibool zitzhsioa 

lit grtisii:: mil %aiw*> i hue -jii. -jL h vaib i asru.1 burbtwf •'(iuimSl jj 

Mg ala laihiw sHl 

MA d 

egg* ynilieoqob ^ 




xtiom ijiuM to tfouff 

vitnG b wvm fi»rAiroVSl 

. . 

(Im> *>bia ano }o &gmw gniworfa t *U f A <> 

8*1101 ggSl 01 


.moO isnabinnl KqirfaiA 


liubA 

mui b»hm .rmfit vtn*q \o b >a >q<ncy> JmK 


It 





.ftnyH ainnotinoxt tisiwZ 

Iasi no aboaH 1 1 
otncB 

loqqoil 99 it bsttoqa-owT 

X *3 aVatawW 

•tJlib V ■ W9 3>bi3 }1 



.idiiH fiJfidl&O mz&d'JiA 

i‘X . . 1 ■''isifirwj & 1 iiuba i w orr t>bi% 

.tdai AintiinwoB JsibxiT 




isqqorf 99il larflona In wii r $bi3 X 1 
X& fssvijul nv ab&oh x&b god 
.nniJ wnWii tmw&T 

noiiir -r gqrjcji ni ilnbr. lo v/aiv ?>bi3 Hi 
I1V99W xnooA 


'<~2 uiVm>:t tttmuuujd 




L. H. Joutel. 1902 


OAK INSECTS 
























































































TREE INSECTS AND THEIR CONTROL 189 

tic action on the tissues. The active elements in these 
sprays are lime and sulphur compounds, soaps, petroleum 
oils and tobacco extracts. Some of the sprays are: 


Lime-sulphur 

Kerosene 

Kerosene Emulsion 


Creosote Oil 
Miscible Oils 

40 per cent. Nicotine Sulphate 


Fish-oil Soap. 


Lime-Sulphur. —This is used against the armored 
scale insects, such as the oyster-shell scale or the San Jose 
scale. Its use is generally confined to the dormant season, 
between late fall and early spring. It may be used as a 
spray, or it may be spread , on with a paint brush. The 
chemicals discolor paint, and for this reason spraying 
should be avoided where the paint on buildings will be 
reached. The material, as purchased, must be diluted with 
water before use, and directions as to dilution will usually 
be found with each purchase. In general it may be said 
that the lime-sulphur should be used in proportion of 1 
pint to each gallon of water. 

Kerosene. —Kerosene oil is effective in killing some in¬ 
sects and in the destruction of eggs. It is applied by daub¬ 
ing on the affected surface by means of a mop fastened to a 
pole. Kerosene is also used to destroy tent or web caterpil¬ 
lars by burning. For this purpose the mop is used as a torch 
and held against the tent or web, with care to inflict the 
least possible damage to the tree by the flames. 

Kerosene Emulsion. —This is recognized as one of the 
most effective sprays for contact uses. With variation 
of the proportion of water, this spray may be used in 
summer or winter. It is used for the destruction of scales 
and soft-bodied insects. The emulsion is made of kero¬ 
sene, soap and water, the soap being required to bring 
about the mixing of the other ingredients. This mixture 
may be made at home. The formula: 


190 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


Kerosene. 2 gallons 

Fish-oil soap (or laundry soap). )/2 pound 

Water. 1 gallon 


(One quart of soft soap may be used instead of the soaps 
specified above.) 

Boil the water and soap together until the soap dis¬ 
solves. This mixture should then be removed from the 
fire, the kerosene added and the mixture stirred briskly 
for five minutes, or until it has the consistency of cream. 

This concentrated mixture must be diluted with water 
at the time of spraying. For use in summer, when the 
trees are in leaf, the dilution should be at the rate of 5^ 
gallons of water to each gallon of the mixture. For use 
in winter, when the trees are dormant, the rate should be 
l /4 to 3 gallons of water to each gallon of the mixture. 
The concentrated mixture will keep for some time in its 
original form, but the diluted mixture should be used as 
soon as prepared. 

Creosote Oil. —This is used for the destruction of tus¬ 
sock moth egg masses, especially when they cannot be 
removed successfully. It is applied by daubing with a 
mop. The oil thickens in cold weather, in which case it 
requires thinning with turpentine. 

Miscible Oils. —There are various miscible oils, which 
are mixtures to be bought ready-made. Their use is 
effective in controlling the scale insects. The mixtures are 
sold under various trade names, and since they vary in 
strength, careful attention must be paid to the directions 
for dilution as printed on the labels. These oils are apt 
to injure foliage if applied during the leaf season, and for 
this reason they are usually employed as winter sprays. 
In addition to this factor, winter spraying has the added 
advantages that the absence of foliage makes it possible 
to use stronger solution, and also makes it easier to reach 
the insects with the spray. 





Fall Web Worm 

Hyphantria cunea Drury 

1 Cluster of eggs 

2 Dorsal views of full and partly grown larvae and also a lateral view of a full 

grown caterpillar 

3 Pupa 

4 Pupa, enlarged 

5 White form of moth in resting position 

6 Spotted form of moth with wings expanded 

Figures 2, 5 and 6 are on a small web 

Spiny Elm Caterpillar 

Euvanessa antiopa Linn. 

7 Cluster of eggs on a leaf stem 

8 One egg, much enlarged, the dot beside it shows its natural size 

9 Caterpillar feeding 

10 Chrysalis hanging from a leaf stem 

11 Butterfly with wings spread 

The figures of the egg and caterpillar are on a twig of elm representing the 
characteristic work of the caterpillar. 


cnoW doW fla* 

XimCI uvuu* 


p.ggo \o lojsutO i 


iiultqiotfio t'ffirvg 

&quH l 

\ 

rioilieoq •i.!?') oi dtom -i- // 

bobneqxo ,'irw ifcii.v Htot 10 r,>;.■>! I, »}i<»qd <> 

do // Ub«i 8 . no oiii ci b/iB £ /. ao;ugrl 


uailiqioiBD mi 3 f {oiq 3 

.nrlij 


m;.' ol fa xr*. ^ loiaul- > 

osi* ItvmJnn aii avtoiU it of »ci b odf ,bo^i£lno Hod.’.: ,30 mO 8 


gjuibool icflliqisJBO 9 

moja 1ml r, mm\ gnignuH zilszyidO oi 
bfiotq-8 agnrv rifiw ^fholtuH 11 


j . 1 -jabfioaoiqoi mh b ;iv/t r do r. or.fflqiaOB, bn* jjp >.h lo aoirrgrt o/fT 

.•i/HUqvjtj • jdt '<0 J.vvm obartotOBiAfh 









. Joutei. 1905. fall web worm and spiny elm caterpillar 





























































































































































































































TREE INSECTS AND THEIR CONTROL 191 


Nicotine Sulphate. —This is a liquid extract of tobacco, 
which is effective against aphids, or plant lice, and other 
soft-bodied insects. It may be bought under numerous 
trade names. The strength varies with the different 
preparations, and directions for proper dilution with water 
are usually printed on the labels. The most used form 
is the 40 per cent, nicotine sulphate, although any strength 
may be used when properly diluted. The addition of 1 
ounce of soap to each gallon of spray is useful in causing 
the material to spread and stick. 

Fish-oil Soap. —This material, also known as whale-oil 
soap, is effective against aphids, scale insects and other 
sap-suckers. For use in summer spraying, dissolve 1 
pound of the soap in from 3 to 4 gallons of water. For use 
against scale insects in winter, dissolve 2 pounds of the 
soap in each gallon of water. The mixing should be done 
over a fire and the spray used before the solution is cold, 
as the mixture congeals upon cooling. Common laundry 
soap may be used instead of the fish-oil soap. 

Poisoned Contact Sprays. —For use against borers, 
while they are still feeding in the bark, sodium arsenite 
should be added to either kerosene emulsion or miscible 
oil sprays. The addition of this poison makes what is 
known as a poisoned contact spray, which penetrates 
where ordinary water solutions would be ineffectual. 
Sodium arsenite may be obtained at drug stores. When 
diluting the kerosene emulsion or miscible oil for use, add 
one ounce of sodium arsenite to each gallon of the water 
employed for dilution, allowing the poison to dissolve 
before making the final mixture. The poisoned contact 
sprays are injurious to foliage and should be applied 
with care. 

Carbon Disulphid. —Carbon disulphid partakes of the 
nature of contact remedies, but its use is along dif- 


192 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


ferent lines. This substance kills by suffocation and is 
used against borers, by injections into the openings of their 
tunnels. The vapor of carbon disulphid is heavier than 
air, and when it is injected the vapor sinks. The injection 
is made by using a squirt oil can or a dropper, such as is 
employed in filling fountain pens. After the injection has 
been made the hole must be promptly plugged with some 
such material as grafting wax, putty or soap, to prevent 
the escape of the vapor. Carbon disulphid must be handled 
with care. It is highly inflammable and , when inhaled freely , 
it is poisonous. 

Spraying Apparatus. —For use in spraying small trees 
a hand atomizer is adequate. In general appearance this 
resembles a tire-pump. It is made of copper, brass or 
heavy tin, and holds about a quart of liquid. 

A small compressed-air pump is convenient for spray¬ 
ing operations on a small scale. This pump resembles the 
fire extinguishers seen in factories and office buildings. It 
is made of brass or galvanized sheet steel, and holds from 
3 to 4 gallons. It is carried by means of a shoulder strap. 
In preparing it for use the liquid is poured into the tank, 
the opening closed and air pumped in to provide pressure 
for forcibly expelling the liquid. 

A barrel hand-pump outfit, holding approximately 50 
gallons, may be used for spraying a limited number of 
moderate sized trees like apple trees. The working parts 
of the pump must be of non-corrosive metal, such as 
bronze or brass. The pump may be mounted on either 
the head or side of the barrel, and the whole outfit placed 
on a wagon or on skids, for convenience in moving from 
tree to tree. 

Next in size and capacity above the barrel hand-pump 
outfit is the double action hand-pump, employed with 
150 or 200 gallon tank, the tank mounted on the running 


TREE INSECTS AND THEIR CONTROL 193 

gear of a wagon, and the pump fastened to a small plat¬ 
form at the top of the tank or at the rear end of the wagon. 
Instead of the tank, a barrel, or a 100 gallon hogs¬ 
head, may be used, placed at one end of the wagon 
bed to leave room for pump and operator. A suction hose 
extends into the container which holds the spray material. 
The pump is double action with double cylinder, and gives 
pressure for two lines of hose and for double nozzles. 

For results in spraying mature street trees, power 
sprayers, operated by gasoline engines, must be used, as the 
other outfits mentioned are not effective for this purpose. 
It is important that communities and neighborhoods should 
act together in their purchase and use where no municipal 
outfit is at hand. The ideal plan, of course, is to have all 
spraying operations conducted by the local government, 
since this plan makes it feasible to have even more com¬ 
plete and efficient outfits than are to be expected in com¬ 
munity or neighborhood cooperation. The power sprayer 
gives steadier spray than the hand-pump, insuring a more 
even and more thorough distribution of the application 
and makes it possible to reach the tops of the trees. 
Power sprayers as small as one horsepower may be pur¬ 
chased, while there are larger sprayers of as much as 
12 horsepower, with capacity of 50 gallons or more to the 
minute under pressure of from 150 to 300 pounds. Where 
a pressure of less than 100 pounds per square inch is used, 
the material is delivered in the form of a mist within a 
short distance from the nozzle, which necessitates the 
nozzle being carried near to the foliage to be sprayed. 
This practically limits the use of hand pumps to trees not 
over 30 to 40 feet high and then only after climbing into 
the trees. The compressed air pumps are not practicable 
for trees over 10 feet high. For tall trees, a solid stream 
delivered from a nozzle at a pressure of 150 to 200 pounds 
13 


194 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


will be thrown into spray as it reaches their tops and will 
then descend as a mist over the tree. 

For the most extensive spraying operations motor 
truck sprayers are sometimes used. 

Accessories for Spraying. —There are many types of 
spraying nozzles, but the one which has been found 
most generally efficient, for both medium and small 
outfits, is the whirlpool disc type, adjustable to fine, med¬ 
ium or coarse spray. This nozzle is compact and does 
not catch in branches or twigs. 

For reaching the upper and inner parts of a tree, where 
a mist spray is used, an extension rod is useful. This is a 
rod of aluminum, iron or brass, fitted into a bamboo pole, 
made in lengths of from 6 to 14 feet, and is used for hold¬ 
ing the nozzle above the head of the operator. 

A combination of nozzle and extension rod is the 
Worthley nozzle, several feet in length, which directs a 
solid stream and makes it possible to reach the top of an 
85 foot tree while the operator is standing on the ground. 
For foliage nearer the ground and for small trees the 
nozzle has a spreader which breaks the force of the solid 
stream and produces a fan-shaped spray. 

For the larger power outfits and heavier work a nozzle 
like that used on a fire hose, but of smaller size, is best. 

The hose used in spraying should be of the best grade, 
made for high pressure and from % to % inch inside 
diameter. 

In the absence of spraying equipment, a common 
paint or whitewash brush may be used to good advantage 
in applying treatment to the trunk and larger branches 
of a single tree, or even a small number of trees. This 
method is used against the scale insects, and the spray 
material is spread on the bark with the brush. Even the 
caustic lime-sulphur may be thus applied if proper pre- 


TREE INSECTS AND THEIR CONTROL 195 

cautions are taken to protect the operator’s face and 
hands. The use of the brush obviates the injury to paint 
on nearby buildings that might be caused by spraying. 

Tree Bands. —The use of tree bands as barriers 
or traps for insects has occasional value, but they are not as 
effectual as many people seem to believe. The usefulness 
of bands is confined to protection against those insects 
which crawl along the trunk. Against the winged insects 
they have no value whatever. To be useful at all the bands 
must be closely watched and kept from clogging, drying 
out or becoming bridged. They are likely to be injurious 
to the trees. 

A type of banding which proves effective is made of 
cotton batting, 6 to 8 inches wide, wrapped around the 
tree with the ends overlapping, and tied securely and 
snugly by means of a string around its lower edge, with the 
upper part turned down over the string to form a flange of 
loose cotton. This stops the insects as they crawl upward. 
The cotton must be kept in fluffy condition. 

The wingless moths, such as those of the cankerworm, 
and the tussock moth, may be trapped by 12 mesh fly- 
screen. A strip of the wire screen 12 inches wide should 
be cut with a top length slightly greater than needed to fit 
around the tree and a bottom length 6 inches greater. The 
top edge should be snugly fitted around the tree and 
fastened with carpet tacks, leaving the lower part standing 
out in a way suggesting an inverted funnel. The spread¬ 
ing lower edge admits crawling insects, and these should 
be gathered and crushed daily, to prevent the laying of 
any eggs. 

Sticky bands are useful against the ascent of cater¬ 
pillars and wingless moths. The sticky material may be 
bought ready for use. In preparing to apply it, the tree 
should first be encircled with a 2 inch strip of cotton, 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


196 

snugly wrapped around the trunk in a way to fill all the 
crevices of the bark. Over this there should be placed a 
5 inch strip of building tar-paper, tightly drawn and 
securely tacked at its overlapping ends. The sticky 
substance is then applied to this paper. It should be 
renewed when it becomes dry or covered with dust or 
insects, as its stickiness is its one point of efficacy. 
It should not come in contact with the tree, although 
occasionally it is recommended to apply such material 
directly to the trunk high enough to be above persons 
passing. There is danger from a girdling effect due to the 
hardening of the material (Hopkins, U. S. Dept, of Agr.) 
and due to the penetration of possible injurious substances 
in the material. A sticky fly-paper may be used, over 
bands of cotton and with the edges securely bound with 
string. 

Safeguards against insect attacks are as important in 
their way as the application of remedies after the attacks 
have taken hold. Much damage may be prevented by 
advance precautions. Among the most important steps 
of this character is the providing of good cultural condi¬ 
tions and careful attention to all pruning, or accidental 
injuries and cavities. 

Since trees which are strong and healthy are in best 
position to resist insect attacks, it is important that weak¬ 
ened trees should be stimulated by enrichment of the soil. 
This may be accomplished by applying nitrate of soda, 
stable manure, or other fertilizer containing nitrogen. 
This stimulus, combined with pruning and frequent culti¬ 
vation, will produce new vitality and prove helpful in 
enabling a tree to combat its insect enemies with its own 
forces. 


TREE INSECTS AND THEIR CONTROL 197 


ALL SHADE TREES 


Habits This borer probably destroys 
and the bases of more shade trees 
Damage, than any other insect enemy. 

It is especially prevalent in the 
eastern part of the United States. The 
adult is a large brown beetle, which lays 
its eggs in the heartwood near the ground 
wherever a wound affords an opening. 
Egg-laying takes place shortly after Chest¬ 
nut trees blossom. Upon hatching, the 
grubs feed on the wood and completely 
honeycomb the base of the tree. Their 
work continues for 3 or 4 years and 
frequently their presence is not known for 
the reason that the wound through which 
entrance was gained heals over. Besides 
their attacks at the base, the grubs also 
enter wounds in the larger limbs. Trees 
severely attacked have nothing but an 
outer shell and trunks and limbs are easily 
broken by the wind. 


Because of the difficulty of 
detecting the presence and 
ravages of this borer, it is important to 
take steps to prevent a tree from becom¬ 
ing infested. The most direct measure is 
to promptly treat all wounds and cavities. 
New injuries, scars and other wounds 
exposing the wood should be painted or so 
treated that they will quickly heal and no 
decay be started. Cavities should be 
thoroughly cleaned and filled, with every 
care taken to see that all infested parts of 
the wood are dug out. 


BORING INSECTS 
Parandra Borer 

Remedies. 


ASH 

Ash-bud Gall-mite 


Habits This mite attacks flower 
and buds and causes them to devel- 

Damage. op into abnormal, berry-like 
form, resembling the galls to be 
found on Oaks. Clusters of the galls are 
to be found hanging from the ends of 
branches. In their later stages of develop¬ 
ment the galls turn red, changing to 
brown. The abnormal growth comes, 
presumably, from injuries caused by the 
mites in feeding. No particular damage 
to the tree results. 


Remedy. Thorough spraying is usually 
successful in the elimination of 
the mites. The spraying should be done 
during the winter with some form of con¬ 
tact poison, such as kerosene emulsion or 
a miscible oil solution. 


SAP SUCKING INSECTS 


San Jose Scale 


Habits This sap-sucking scale de- 
and votes its attacks largely to 

Damage, fruit trees, but sometimes 
damages the Elm and other 
shade trees as well. Of the Elms the Eu- 


Remedies. This scale may be kept 
in check by thorough spray¬ 
ing with lime sulphur, miscible oils, fish- 
oil solution or kerosene emulsion. The 
spraying should be done during the dor- 


198 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


ropean variety is most subject to attack. 
The scale infests trunk, limb and bran¬ 
ches. After passing the winter, partly 
grown, on the bark it matures in early 
June and produces a new generation. 
Breeding is repeated several times during 
the summer. The young insects are vis¬ 
ible to the eye as they crawl along the 
bark before settling down and implanting 
their beaks in the bark. Because of the 
enormous multiplication by rapidly suc¬ 
ceeding generations, a slight infestation 
in the spring may become very serious 
during the season. 

The mature scale is the size of a pin¬ 
head, or smaller, and is scarcely percep¬ 
tible unless present in abundance. Severe 
infestation encrusts trunk and limbs with 
ashy-gray scales which produce a yellow, 
oily fluid when scraped with a knife; the 
foliage appears spotted and diseased. A 
slight attack merely checks growth of the 
part affected, while a heavy attack causes 
branches and twigs to die and sometimes 
kills young trees as well. 


mant season, between late fall and early 
spring, when the tree is bare of leaves. 
For heavy attacks one treatment should 
be given in the fall after the leaves drop 
and another in spring just before the buds 
swell. 


BEECH 


LEAF-CHEWING INSECTS 
Gipsy Moth 


Habits This leaf-eating insect is 
and prevalent in New England, 

Damage, where it has caused the death 
of thousands of trees. The 
male is dark brown with black wing mark¬ 
ings; the female is white with black wing 
markings. The grubs are hatched in the 
spring, from eggs laid the previous July 
on the trunks or underside of branches of 
trees, in cavities in the bark or on stones 
and rubbish. The egg mass is rounded or 
oval, coated with yellowish hairs and 
resembling a sponge in appearance. The 
young grubs eat holes in the opening 
leaves, and in case of severe attack, the 
end of June brings total destruction of the 
foliage. Trees weakened by severe infes¬ 
tation are subject to attack from boring 
insects. It may be safely said that the 
gipsy moth, where prevalent, is the most 
destructive of all insect enemies of the 
trees. 


Remedies. The conspicuous appear¬ 
ance of the egg masses makes 
them easily located during the fall or 
winter. Since it is impossible to gather 
these egg masses without scattering the 
eggs and thus spreading the infestation, 
other methods of control are necessary. 
In Massachusetts the attempt to gather 
egg masses is forbidden for this reason. 
Creosote with a small amount of lamp¬ 
black added, is effectual if applied with a 
brush to the egg clusters. In Massachu¬ 
setts a creosote mixture quite generally 
used is made up of five parts of creosote, 
two parts of carbolic acid, two parts of 
spirits of turpentine and one part of 
coal tar. 

Placing a sticky band around the trunk 
prevents caterpillars from climbing a tree, 
and is useful after the treatment of the 
egg clusters. The bark should be first 
scraped, to give a smooth surface, and the 


TREE INSECTS AND THEIR CONTROL 199 


It is a recently introduced insect so far 
confined to a limited range. In that area 
it is serious. 

Its seriousness is probably part due 
to its being in surroundings where its nat¬ 
ural insect and disease enemies have not 
been introduced. 

The seriousness of the attacks of this 
activity in suppression. 


sticky material applied with a paddle, 
evenly, in a thin layer. 

When young caterpillars are found on 
the leaves in spring the foliage should be 
thoroughly and evenly sprayed with 
arsenate of lead paste, in proportion of 
one pound to ten gallons of water, 
insect class it as one that requires State 


SAP-SUCKING INSECTS 
Aphids 


Habits Beech trees are subject to 
and attack from the Beech-tree 

Damage, blight aphis and the woolly 
Beech aphis. Both are bluish- 
white and woolly. The first named 
attacks the underside of the branches and 
the second the underside of the leaves. 
They are sap-suckers, and they mar a 
tree’s appearance by causing loss of 
leaves. They sometimes kill twigs and 
even young trees. 


Remedy. These insects may be de¬ 
stroyed by spraying in spring 
with kerosene emulsion or 40 per cent, 
nicotine sulphate, applied when the 
invasion is first noted. 


BIRCH 


LEAF CHEWING INSECTS 
Gipsy Moth 

(See description and remedies under Beech) 

BORING INSECTS 
Bronze Birch Borer 


Habits This borer’s attacks are often 
and fatal. The borer is a slender, 
Damage, flat, footless grub, creamy 
white in color, attaining a 
length of about ^ inch, developing into 
a winged beetle which is small and slender 
and olive-bronze in coloring. Egg-laying 
takes place in May or early June, in cre- 
vises on rough surfaces of the bark. 
When hatched, the grubs bore through 
the bark and make zigzag tunnels in bark 
and sapwood, spending the winter in 
chambers in the wood and emerging in 
April or May as adult beetles, leaving oval 
holes in the bark. Severe attack causes 
the top branches to die and the vitality of 
the tree to deteriorate until, at the end 
of a year or two, the tree dies. The pres¬ 
ence and work of the borer is shown by 


Prevention There is no remedy for the 
and attack of this borer. Prob- 

Control. ing, which is effectual 

against other borers, does 
no good because of the winding character 
of the channels; nor is it possible to 
remove the borer by cutting, because of 
the winding course of the channels and 
the large number of the grubs. Pruning 
of infested branches may prolong the life 
of a tree, but the only safe way is to cut 
and burn the tree as soon as dead or dying 
tops or other signs of infestation are 
manifest. 


200 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


reddish or rusty brown spots on the white 
bark of trunk and larger branches; and 
under the bark will be found winding 
channels. Ridges are often to be seen on 
the bark of branches, over the burrows. 

These signs show themselves before the 
top begins to die. 

The injury is due to the burrows in the bark cutting off the passage of the 
descending sap, death resulting from girdling that may be as thorough as though 
done with an ax. 

The elimination of this borer demands neighborhood action, as the cutting of a 
single tree will do no good if other trees are infested. 


THE BOX ELDER 


SAP-SUCKING INSECTS 


Box Elder Plant-bug 


Habits This sap-sucking, red insect 
and feeds on the leaves and tender 

Damage, growth of the Box Elder. The 
bug first appears about the 
time the Box Elder buds open in the 
spring, and lays its eggs in the crevices of 
the bark. On hatching, the young travel 
to the foliage, and great numbers of them 
may be seen crawling along the trunk. 
The late summer is spent in feeding. In 
the fall the bug becomes a troublesome 
household pest, because of its habit of 
crawling up walls and into houses and 
cellars in search of winter quarters. 


Remedies. Spraying is the best means 
of controlling this insect. 
The spray should be applied as soon as 
the bugs appear in the spring. Soap 
solution or kerosene emulsion will be 
found effective. 

When the bugs appear in the fall they 
should be killed by pouring hot water or 
kerosene over them. It will also be found 
comparatively easy to sweep them in 
quantities into a vessel containing 
kerosene. 


Box Elder Aphis 


Habits This is a sap-eating insect, 
and the eggs of which hatch in the 

Damage, spring when the tree’s buds 
begin to open. The hatching 
process takes place on the bark and the 
young insects migrate at once to the 
leaves and tender twigs, where they feed. 
A half-dozen or more generations may 
develop during a single season. The 
insects are pale green in color and they 
cover the leaves and twigs with a soot-like 
coating, while a sticky liquid will be found 
on the leaves and on the ground. The 
feeding stunts the leaves and the fun¬ 
gus deposit gives the tree an unsightly 
appearance. 


Remedy. It is not difficult to control 
this insect. Spraying is the 
most effectual method. The sprays should 
be 40 per cent, nicotine sulphate and 
should be applied in the spring when the 
tree starts its growth for the new season. 


TREE INSECTS AND THEIR CONTROL 201 


ELM 


LEAF CHEWING INSECTS 
Elm-leaf Beetle 


Habits Attacks all Elms, especially 
and the English Elm. Causes 

Damage, leaves to fall; if not checked, it 
brings about complete loss of 
leaves and if repeated sufficiently often 
will cause the death of tree. 

The first sign of damage is the appear¬ 
ance of irregular holes in leaves in early 
spring. These come from attacks by the 
full-grown beetle, which has just come 
from its winter quarters in barns, sheds 
and similar shelter. At this time eggs are 
laid on the under side of the leaves. In 
June these eggs hatch into larvae or grubs 
which grow to be one-half inch in length; 
the larvae feed on the leaves, giving the 
leaves the appearance of skeletons or 
lacework. Within 15 to 20 days after 
hatching the larvae develop into pupae, 
or young beetles, which are to be found 
at the foot of the tree. Just before this 
change the larvae may be seen crawling 
down the trunk. In another week the 
young beetles become fully grown. 

The eggs are orange-yellow in color, 
and occur in clusters of from five to 
twenty, in irregular rows on the under 
side of the leaves. The larvae are yellow¬ 
ish black to blackish. The pupae are 
orange-colored. 


Remedy. The best control is by the use 
of arsenate of lead, by spray¬ 
ing, whenever and as often as there are 
signs of attack. This poison should be 
applied to the foliage in the early spring, 
just after the buds have burst, and again 
two weeks later. If rains fall after the 
spraying it may be necessary to apply the 
poison a third or even a fourth time. The 
poison must reach the under side of the 
leaves to be effective against the eggs and 
the larvae. The first spraying is intended 
to kill the adults and prevent the laying of 
eggs; the later sprayings are additional 
safeguards against possible survivors. 

To destroy the pupae at the base of the 
tree scalding water, thick soapsuds or a 
solution of kerosene should be poured 
over them in liberal quantities; this 
should be used promptly and repeated 
whenever and as often as may be neces¬ 
sary until all the insects are destroyed. 
The surface of the soil should be turned 
by digging, to expose any insects which 
may have buried themselves. In the case 
of a large tree it is sometimes necessary 
to climb to the forks of limbs and gather 
stragglers. 


Combined action on the part of the entire neighborhood is essential in undertaking 
the destruction of the Elm-leaf beetle. Unless all trees are treated, the results will 
be without value, as the beetles will travel from infested trees to those which may 
have been treated. Another factor in the importance of cooperative action is that 
expensive spraying apparatus is required for trees as large as Elms and this appar¬ 
atus should be owned by the town or city government or by a number of individual 
property owners. 

Brown-tail Moth 


Habits This leaf-eating insect causes 
and great damage in New Eng- 

Damage. land and a severe attack 
destroys leaves as fast as 
developed. The eggs hatch early in 
August, after having been laid in July in 
oblong clusters covered with brown hair 
on the underside of the leaves. The 
young caterpillars make tents for them- 


Remedies. Cutting off the winter 
tents and burning them is an 
effectual method of destroying this pest. 
This must be done before the caterpillars 
emerge in the spring. It is also useful to 
spray with arsenate of lead when the 
leaves are full grown and again when the 
caterpillars hatch. 


202 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


selves by fastening leaves together with a 
web of silk. These tents are at the ends 
of twigs. Before going into winter quar¬ 
ters in the tents, the young caterpillars 
feed on the leaves, giving them a skele¬ 
ton-like appearance, but without serious 
damage. When the buds begin to form 
in the spring the grubs start to devour the 
bud scales and small leaves. This spring 
feeding sometimes strips a tree of leaves 
altogether. The growth of an infested 
tree is badly checked. 

In appearance the adult moth is pure 
white and the tip of the abdomen is cov¬ 
ered with dark brown hairs. The moths 
appear during the first week of June and 
for several weeks they may be seen clus¬ 
tered around electric arc lights. The 
caterpillars are covered with poisonous 
barbed hairs which cause severe irrita¬ 
tion when brought into contact with the 
human skin. 


San Jose Scale 

(See description and remedies under Ash) 


Bagworm 


Habits Less common than the Elm- 
and leaf beetle, but causes some 

Damage, damage. Appears in bags, 
woven by the insect itself from 
bits of foliage and a silk fibre. The eggs 
are laid within the bags in September and 
hatch into caterpillars the following 
spring. The caterpillars begin at once 
after hatching to feed on the leaves and 
to construct bags for themselves. The 
insect carries its bag with it in moving 
from limb to limb or even from tree to 
tree. In winter the bags are conspicuous 
on the leafless branches. 


Remedies. The bagworm has natural 
enemies which usually serve 
to keep it within bounds. The simplest 
remedy is to pick the bags from the tree, 
wherever this can be done, and burn them. 
Where the bags can not be thus picked 
by hand, or to destroy any which may 
have been overlooked, the tree should be 
sprayed with arsenate of lead soon after 
the time of hatching in the early spring. 


Concerted action on the part of an entire neighborhood is essential in the treat¬ 
ment of the bagworm. 


Spiny Elm Caterpillar 


Habits A black, spiny caterpillar, 
and marked with red, and about 2 

Damage, inches long; found in groups. 

Eats the leaves. Its presence 
is shown by partly eaten leaves or by 
entire branches or leaves becoming bare. 


Remedies. When the first signs of 
injury appear the affected 
parts of the tree should be thoroughly 
sprayed with arsenate of lead. Where the 
clusters are such as to make it possible 
to remove them bodily without much 


TREE INSECTS AND THEIR CONTROL 203 


When fully developed the caterpillar 
becomes a chrysalis resembling a sea-shell, 
which is fastened to a limb, and which 
develops into a butterfly, which in turn 
lays eggs. 


damage to the tree the twigs carrying the 
caterpillars should be cut off. When this 
is done the caterpillars may be easily 
destroyed by burning, by dipping in 
kerosene or by crushing. 


Fall Webworm 


Habits This pest may be recognized 
and by its tent-like web containing 

Damage, a quantity of hairy caterpil¬ 
lars together with skeletonized 
leaves, the latter usually brown. The 
young webworm, or pupa, spends the 
winter in silken cocoons, in cracks and 
crevices of fences or tree boxes, under 
doorsteps, on basement walls, or among 
sticks and rubbish. In May the pupa 
becomes a moth, which lays its eggs on 
the underside of leaves. The young 
worms when hatched feed in groups and 
construct their web to cover several 
leaves, sometimes an entire limb of con¬ 
siderable size. In July, when fully grown 
the worms crawl down the tree. A second 
crop develops in August in temperate 
climates, and in the South a third crop is 


Remedies. Like the bagworm, the fall 
webworm has natural ene¬ 
mies, which usually keep it in check. 
When artificial control is necessary, the 
best method is to destroy the cocoon in 
winter by hand picking and burning. The 
burning of the tents is also necessary. If 
foliage becomes affected it should be 
sprayed with lead arsenate. To apply 
the spray a barrel pump mounted on a 
horse-drawn cart may be used in a small 
community, with good results. This 
should have fifty feet or more of garden 
hose. A ten foot bamboo pole, carrying 
the spray nozzle at the end, is helpful in 
causing the spray to reach the upper 
limbs. For larger communities a power 
pump, horse-drawn or motor driven, is 
most efficient. 


known. 

To provide suitable apparatus, the spraying should be cooperative. All trees 
should be sprayed as those left untreated would communicate the web-worms to 
others near at hand. 


Forest Tent Caterpillar 


Habits This is the caterpillar which 
and sometimes is so abundant in 

Damage, forests as to strip completely 
the foliage of trees over hun¬ 
dreds of square miles. In appearance, it 
presents a blue head and it has silver 
spots, diamond shaped, down the back. 
The young caterpillars emerge from the 
eggs when the leaf growth begins in the 
early spring. They feed on the leaves and 
may destroy all the foliage. They are to 
be found in colonies on the trunk and 
larger limbs, and are frequently seen 
hanging by silken threads. Early in June 
they leave the tree and take shelter under 
stones, woodpiles, fences and other hiding 
places, emerging early in July as moths. 
The eggs are laid a little later, around 
slender twigs. 


Remedies. When not destroyed by 
their natural enemies, these 
caterpillars must be given careful atten¬ 
tion as soon as detected. The egg masses 
on twigs may be hand picked and destroy¬ 
ed or they may be daubed with creosote, 
or sprayed with kerosene emulsion or 
with one of the miscible oils of standard 
make. Early spring spraying with lead 
arsenate is effective, when done with 
thoroughness. 


204 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


Cankerworm 


Habits This is the worm commonly 
and known as the “measuring 

Damage, worm” or “looper,” because 
of its curious way of looping its 
body in crawling. An attack by this 
species may result in the destruction of 
the entire foliage of a tree. The species is 
divided into spring and fall types; the 
latter is the one which attacks shade trees. 
The eggs of the fall moth, shaped like 
flowerpots, are laid in regular rows, 
usually in rings around twigs near the 
end of a branch. The eggs hatch into 
caterpillars when the leaves start to 
expand in the spring. These cater¬ 
pillars feed on the leaves, and in June spin 
silken threads by which they descend to 
the ground to bury themselves beneath 
the surface. They emerge late in the fall. 
The egg-layers have no wings and must 
crawl up the trunk of a tree to deposit 
their eggs. 

White-marked 

Habits One of the worst insect ene- 
and mies to the Elm and other 

Damage, shade trees, sometimes destroy¬ 
ing the foliage of the trees in 
an entire community. City trees seem 
especially susceptible to its attacks. 
When a tree becomes infested the signs 
are at once visible, in the form of conspic¬ 
uous egg masses on the trunk or larger 
limbs; these masses are present from the 
time of the egg-laying in September, until 
the following spring. They are shiny 
white, frothy looking patches, with four or 
five hundred eggs in a single cluster. 
Hatching takes place in May, with a 
second brood in August, and each cluster 
may produce hundreds of caterpillars. 
The caterpillars immediately attack the 
leaves, first reducing them to transparent 
skeletons and finally devouring all but the 
principal veins. After five weeks the 
caterpillars weave cocoons in which they 
go through the stages of transformation, 
emerging as moths to repeat the egg- 
laying and hatching process for a second 
time and in warm climates for a third time 
during the same season. The full grown 


Remedies. If unchecked by their 
natural enemies the can- 
kerworms become a serious menace to 
trees. The first step is to prevent the 
wingless females from crawling up the 
trunks in order to lay eggs. This may be 
done by banding the trees with some 
sticky substance or cotton batting. 
(Page 192.) These bands should be placed 
late in September and kept in position 
until the end of May. Where banding 
has not been done, or where it has not 
proved effectual, a tree which shows 
signs of being heavily infested should be 
promptly sprayed with arsenate of lead. 
Necessity for spraying is shown by the 
appearance of perforations in the leaves 
when they are opening in early spring. 


Tussock Moth 

Remedies. Destruction of the egg 
masses in the fall or winter 
is the simplest and most effectual means 
of control. They may be easily picked 
off by hand, or scraped off and burned; or 
they may be destroyed by spraying or 
daubing with creosote oil, kept liquid by 
being mixed with turpentine. It will be 
found that because the masses are loosely 
attached the removal can be accomplished 
with little effort. If any of the eggs 
remain and are hatched the tree must be 
thoroughly sprayed with arsenate of lead, 
completely covering all infested foliage. 
The spraying should be done with equip¬ 
ment and method similar to those out¬ 
lined for the control of the fall web worm. 
(Page 203). 

The tussock moth does not appear 
every year, for the reason that it has a 
number of natural enemies which keep 
it in check. 


TREE INSECTS AND THEIR CONTROL 205 


caterpillar is more than an inch long, with 
red head, three black plumes, and four 
yellow, brush-like tufts on the back. 

Community action is essential to the destruction of the tussock moth. To treat 
one tree and neglect another will not protect even the tree which is given care, as the 
caterpillar travels from one tree to another. All trees should be treated at the same time. 

Large Elm Sawfly 


Habits This is an insect much like a 
and caterpillar, which eats leaves 

Damage, and girdles the bark of twigs, 
often causing a tree to have an 
appearance of having been damaged by 
fire. Another form of damage to the 
leaves is the appearance of blisters, caused 
by the habit of the female of making slits 
in the leaves and thrusting eggs into these 
pockets. The eggs hatch in early summer 
and produce yellowish-white worms, 
coiled and cylindrical, with white lines 
down the middle of their backs. These 
worms feed on the leaves for several weeks 
and then bury themselves in the ground at 
the base of the tree for the winter. Mat¬ 
ing and the deposit of eggs take place in 
the spring. 

BORING 


Remedies. If the presence of the saw- 
flies is detected during the fall 
or winter, they should be destroyed at 
once, by burning the debris or rubbish in 
which they may be hidden or by breaking 
up the ground at the base of the tree in 
which they may be buried, and crushing 
them. In the spring as many as possible 
should be picked from the foliage, or 
infested leaves taken off and destroyed. 
If spraying becomes necessary lead arsen¬ 
ate should be thoroughly applied. 


INSECTS 


Elm Borer 


Habits This boring insect does great 
and damage to the Elm, and is 

Damage, especially apt to attack a tree 
weakened by disease or from 
other cause. At times it becomes epi¬ 
demic and may destroy the trees of an 
entire community or neighborhood. The 
eggs are laid singly or in groups on the 
bark at any time between May and 
August, by a gray, long-horned beetle 
about one-half inch long and marked with 
red lines and black spots. The eggs 
hatch into very small grubs without feet, 
and these grubs immediately tunnel 
through the bark into the cambium layer. 
Here they continue their boring, excavat¬ 
ing wider cavities as they grow larger. 
When these cavities encircle a limb or 
trunk the effect is to girdle and kill. The 
grub is white and more than an inch long 
when grown. On reaching full growth it 
cuts out a cell under the bark and emer¬ 
ges in the spring as a beetle, making its 
exit through a round hole which it cuts 


Method There is no way to destroy 
of this borer except by total 

Combat, removal of such part of the tree 
as may be infested. If the 
attack of the beetles is discovered when 
the infested area is small and confined to 
the branches, it is possible to save the tree. 
On the other hand, if the trunk has been 
attacked there is nothing to do but cut the 
tree down. In removing branches or cut¬ 
ting down the tree it is essential that the 
wood be burned, as this is the only way 
to prevent the borers from migrating to 
other trees near at hand. 

Since the borer is most apt to attack a 
tree already weakened, one of the most 
efficient safeguards against attack is to 
provide each tree with proper nourish¬ 
ment and protect it from injuries of all 
kinds. 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


9.06 


in the bark. The damage to a tree shows 
itself first in leaves turning brown at the 
ends of infested branches, then by the 
death of branches and finally in the death 
of the tree. In dying trees, the bark on 
trunk and larger branches may be easily 
peeled off in patches, and underneath 
these the grubs are found. 

Leopard 

Habits This moth takes its name 
and from the leopard-like spots on 

Damage, its white wings. The adult 
moth lays eggs in crevices of 
the rough bark, a single specimen some¬ 
times depositing 700 or 800 eggs. The 
larvae, or grubs, hatch within 10 days and 
at once begin their destructive work of 
feeding on the wood, boring toward the 
heart of the tree as they feed. Twigs 
infested break off, the bark splits and 
forms ugly scars, and chips and matted 
discharges are found at the entrance to 
the burrow. The grubs’ period of activity 
continues for two years, serious damage 
is caused and frequently the death of the 
tree results from girdling of the trunk. In 
about two years the grub changes into a 
chrysalis and then into a moth, and egg- 
laying follows. Even when the attack is 
not so severe as to cause death, the 
growth of a tree is seriously hampered. 

Because of this borer’s tendency to 
cooperative work is always necessary. 

Twig 

Habits The pet habit of this insect 
and is to destroy twigs and bran- 

Damage. ches by girdling them until 
they fall off, or die and remain 
hanging. The girdler appears in late 
summer or early fall and is apt to feed 
on the thin bark of twigs before laying 
eggs. The female attacks twigs from % 
to 1^ inches in diameter, and cuts rings 
around them deep into the wood; the eggs 
are laid in openings cut through the bark. 

It is these wounds that cause the twig to 
die. After the eggs are hatched the grubs 
feed on the wood for a year or more. 
Examination of the burrow in a fallen 


Moth 

Treatment. The control of this insect 
is difficult. When a tree or 
limb has become badly infested before 
discovery of the attack, the only recourse 
is to cut and burn the infested part 
immediately, even if this involves cutting 
down the tree itself. This drastic action 
is necessary to prevent the spread of the 
pest to other trees. In cutting and burn¬ 
ing, care should be exercised, and prompt 
action employed, to keep the borers from 
escaping and migrating. 

If a tree shows a few burrows, it is some¬ 
times possible to arrest the damage by 
injecting carbon disulphid into the chan¬ 
nels. This kills the borers. In some cases 
the borers may be killed bodily by prob¬ 
ing with a flexible wire inserted into the 
channel. Action should always be immedi¬ 
ate when the borer’s presence is detected. 


migrate from tree to tree, community or 

Girdler 

Treatment. There is no remedy for 
this insect pest, but it con¬ 
tributes to its own destruction by remain¬ 
ing in the falling or broken twig. It is 
important to gather and burn the twigs 
as soon as they fall or break, for the pur¬ 
pose of destroying the girdlers. This is 
the only treatment to be given. Nature 
helps in destroying the pest by letting 
them overcrowd each other in the individ¬ 
ual twig. 


TREE INSECTS AND THEIR CONTROL 207 


twig will disclose the presence of the grub. 
Trees often become badly deformed as a 
result of this insect’s work. 


SAP-SUCKING INSECTS 
Oyster-shell Scale 


Habits This scale may be recog- 
and nized by its shape and appear- 

Damage. ance. In color it is brown or 
grayish, and in form it is long 
and curved, spreading at one end. It is 
easily moved by prying beneath it with 
a finger nail or knife-blade. The eggs are 
laid in the fall and remain all winter under 
the parent scale, encrusting the bark of a 
branch. Hatching takes place about the 
time apple-blossoms fall, and produces 
crawling insects which thrust their sharp 
beaks into the bark and feed on the sap for 
several weeks, until maturity and repeti¬ 
tion of egg-laying. Two broods a year are 
developed even as far north as New 
Jersey. 


Treatment. Nature provides for the 
destruction of a large per¬ 
centage of oyster-shell scales, through the 
agency of enemy insects. It is unsafe, 
however, to leave the work to these ene¬ 
mies, and spraying is necessary for com¬ 
plete elimination. The only time this 
spraying is effectual is immediately after 
hatching, shortly after the season at which 
apple-blossoms fall, when the lice-like 
insects are crawling, or have just inserted 
their beaks into the bark. Whenever 
these insects are visible they should be 
sprayed with miscible oils (lime sulphur 
hard on foliage), with kerosene emulsion, 
or with whale-oil soap in the proportion of 
one pound of soap to five gallons of water. 


Woolly Elm-bark Aphis 


Habits This insect causes more 
and damage to the looks of a tree 

Damage, than to its growth. Its 
attacks produce knotted and 
gnarled twigs and trunks on young trees. 
The American Elm is especially suscep¬ 
tible. An infested tree shows the rough 
knots, with clusters of white, woolly sub¬ 
stance and lice-like insects. These insects 
appear during the spring and summer, 
and spend their entire lives on a single 
tree. 


Remedies. The insect is easily con¬ 
trolled by spraying with 40 
per cent, nicotine sulphate, with kerosene 
emulsion or with a solution (5 to 7 per 
cent.) of one of the standard miscible oils. 
The spray should be applied thoroughly 
to the bark. If miscible oil is used the 
spray should be applied in the winter 
time; the other should be used as needed. 


European Elm Scale 


Habits While not often the direct 
and cause of a tree’s death, this 

Damage, sap-eating scale causes injur¬ 
ies which, by weakening the 
tree, lead to fatal attack by borers. The 
scale winters in crevices of the bark on 
the trunk and the larger limbs. At this 
period its color is brown, and it is embed¬ 
ded in a white substance resembling cot¬ 
ton. With the approach of warm weather 
eggs are deposited, and these hatch in 
early summer, producing insects resemb¬ 
ling lice. These insects have coloring of 


Remedies. Winter spraying is the 
most effectual means of 
destroying the scale. The spray should be 
kerosene emulsion, or a water solution of 
one of the standard miscible oils. Not so 
effectual, but useful when needed, is 
summer spraying with one of these pre¬ 
parations during the hatching season, in 
June or July. 


208 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


lemon-yellow. They settle on leaves and 
twigs, feeding there until late summer, 
when they return to the trunk or larger 
limbs. 


GALL INSECTS 
Gall Aphids 


Habits These sap-sucking insects 
and disfigure a tree by causing the 

Damage, growth of swellings known as 
galls. These galls sometimes 
become so numerous as to create alarm, 
but the damage is more to appearance 
than to growth or vitality. A tree is sel¬ 
dom harmed in health by them. 


Remedies. Spraying is seldom neces¬ 
sary but if desired a tree may 
be sprayed with kerosene emulsion or mis¬ 
cible oil solution. If the galls appear on 
more than one tree in a neighborhood all 
of those infested should be treated. 


GUM (SWEET) 
LEAF-CHEWING INSECTS 
Forest Tent Caterpillar 

(See description and remedies under Elm) 


HACKBERRY 
LEAF-CHEWING INSECTS 
Spiny Elm Caterpillar 

(See description and remedies under Elm) 


Hackberry Butterfly Caterpillar 


Habits This leaf-chewer causes ser- 
and ious damage to the foliage of 

Damage, the Hackberry. Two genera¬ 
tions develop yearly, from 
eggs deposited on the leaves. The cater¬ 
pillar is green in color, with pale spots and 
lines along the back and projections at 
each end. It is found on the under side 
of the leaf. At maturity the caterpillar 
develops into a russet gray butterfly, 
spotted with brown. The presence of the 
caterpillar is indicated by the damage 
resulting from its leaf-eating habits. 


Remedies. These caterpillars fall to 
the ground with the dropping 
leaves in the autumn and it then becomes 
a simple matter to destroy them by raking 
and burning the leaves. Spraying the 
tree with lead arsenate while the cater¬ 
pillars are feeding is also a means of 
control. 


GALL INSECTS 
Hackberry Gall Insects 


Habits The galls produced by this 
and insect mar the appearance of a 

Damage, tree by disfiguring the foliage, 
but otherwise they do no par¬ 
ticular harm. In the spring, when the 
buds begin to swell and open, the insect 


Remedies. It is not often necessary to 
apply treatment against this 
insect, as the damage is usually slight. 
When treatment is needed the tree should 
be sprayed with kerosene emulsion or 
water-soluble oil. The spray should be 


TREE INSECTS AND THEIR CONTROL 209 


feeds on the tender growth and lays eggs applied in the spring, at the time of the 
on the leaves. In three weeks these eggs first appearance of the young insects on 

hatch and galls result from swellings the leaves, before the galls close up. 

caused by the attacks of the young insects 
in feeding. The galls produce deformities 
on leaves, leaf-stems and twigs. 

HICKORY 


LEAF-CHEWING INSECTS 
Walnut Caterpillar 


Habits This leaf-chewing caterpillar 
and sometimes strips a tree of all 

Damage, its leaves. Its favorite is the 
Walnut, but it also attacks the 
Butternut and the Hickory. In extreme 
cases of repeated yearly attacks the death 
of the tree results. The caterpillars hatch 
from eggs laid by moths in July on the 
underside of leaves. Upon hatching the 
caterpillars attack the leaves and continue 
to feed until early fall. In full growth the 
caterpillar is nearly two inches long. It is 
black and covered with hairs of a dirty 
gray color. 


Remedies. The simplest remedy, 
where possible, is to collect 
the caterpillars while they are on the tree. 
Where this can not be done becau se of the 
size of the tree a spray of lead arsenate 
will be found effectual. 


Gipsy Moth 

(See description and remedies under Beech) 

BORING INSECTS 


Hickory Bark Beetle 


Habits This boring insect is a seri- 
and ous menace to the Hickory, 

Damage, frequently causing the death 
of trees. The beetles are 
hatched from eggs laid, about the time the 
pollen falls from Hickory tassels, in cells 
at the sides of a vertical channel exca¬ 
vated by the parent beetle between the 
inner bark and the wood. At first the 
grubs feed on the inner layer of bark and 
tunnel the surface of the wood on either 
side of the vertical channel, producing a 
design resembling a centipede. In case 
of severe infestation these tunnels may 
completely girdle a tree and cause its 
death. Later the grubs tunnel toward the 
surface of the bark, where they winter, 
emerging in the spring as beetles. The 
work of the insect is indicated by damage 
to leaves at the base of the leaf-stems, in 
the spring, and by clean round holes in 
the bark; the foliage fades and dies in 
early autumn. 

14 


Control. It takes a vigorous tree to 
combat this enemy, and for 
this reason it is important to keep Hick¬ 
ories in good condition. In case of slight 
attack, an efficient aid to control is to 
stimulate the vigor of the tree by use of 
fertilizer, thus enabling the tree to resist 
the damage. Keeping the trunk covered 
with strong whale-oil soap-suds will prove 
helpful. If a tree is seriously affected it 
should be cut down and burned, to pro¬ 
tect neighboring trees from infestation. 


210 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


Twig Girdler 

(See description and remedies under Elm) 


GALL INSECTS 
Gall Aphis 


Habits Swellings which resemble 
and tumors and cause deformity 

Damage, of the twigs and leaves are 
produced by this insect when 
spring growth starts. The actual damage 
is slight, but the appearance of a tree may 
be badly marred by the galls. 


Remedy. To destroy these insects a 
spring spraying of kerosene 
emulsion should be applied at the time the 
buds are opening. This kills the insects 
and prevents the creation of the deform¬ 
ing gall growths. 


HONEY LOCUST 

White-marked Tussock Moth. Twig Girdler. 

(See description^and remedies under Elm) 


HORSE CHESTNUT 

White-marked Tussock Moth. Leopard Moth. 

Oyster-shell Scale 

(See description and remedies under Elm) 


Habits This beetle confines its 
and attacks to the Linden, in 

Damage, which respect it is different 
from other insect enemies of 
this tree, listed above. The attacks often 
cause serious injury. The borer eats the 
green bark of growing shoots, the leaf 
stems and the larger veins on the under¬ 
side of the leaves. The attack becomes 
noticeable toward the close of summer. 
Damage by boring is done by the grub, 
which eats its way under the bark and 
deep into the wood of the trunk, near the 
ground, and into exposed roots and lower 
limbs. The insect appears in May and 
begins its attack. Eggs are laid soon 
afterwards in incisions in the bark. After 
passing through transformations from 
grub to beetle, the insect leaves the tree 
through holes in the bark. The time of 
departure is throughout the summer. In 
appearance the beetles are long-horned, 
with six black spots on the back. 


The surest method of 
destroying this borer is to 
dig it out bodily, whenever this is possible. 
This is especially desirable in the case of 
a valuable tree, to make sure of the elim¬ 
ination of the enemy. Another method 
employed with good results is to kill the 
borer bodily, by probing with a wire into 
the burrow. Injection of carbon disul- 
phid is effectual when thoroughly done. 
Spraying with poisoned miscible oil solu¬ 
tion in the late summer helps in the 
destruction of the borers. When a tree is 
heavily infested and badly damaged it is 
best to cut the tree down and burn it, as 
the damage can not be overcome and the 
tree is a menace to its neighbors if it is 
allowed to stand. 


BORING INSECTS 
Twig Girdler 

(See description and remedies under Elm) 

Linden Borer 

Remedies. 


TREE INSECTS AND THEIR CONTROL 211 


SAP-SUCKING SCALE INSECTS 
Oyster-shell Scale 

(See description and remedies under Elm) 

San Jose Scale 

(See description and remedies under Ash) 

MAGNOLIA 


Habits This scale encrusts the 
and branches of the Magnolia and 

Damage. Tulip tree so thickly at times 
as to cause the tree to sicken 
and die. After spending the winter on the 
bark the scales feed there during the 
spring and summer and produce a new 
generation toward fall. In September the 
young insects settle so densely on the 
twigs as completely to hide the bark. At 
this time the young may be seen crawling 
about, preparing to settle. The fully 
grown scale is a vivid gray or light brown, 
knotty and prominently raised. The 
young scale is black. In addition to the 
damage caused by the feeding, the scale 
secretes an offensive honey-dew which 
invites fungus growth and clogs the pores 
of the leaves. 


Spraying is the best means 
of controlling this scale. The 
spray should be applied late in September, 
at the time when the young have just 
made their appearance. Ten per cent, 
kerosene emulsion has been found effec¬ 
tive, as has miscible oil solution. Winter 
spraying with undiluted crude petroleum 
is advocated by some authorities as an 
efficient means of control. 


SAP-SUCKING SCALE INSECTS 
Magnolia Soft Scale 
Remedies. 


MAPLE 

LEAF-CHEWING INSECTS 


Forest Tent Caterpillar White-marked Tussock Moth 

Bagworm Brown-Tail Moth 

(See descriptions and remedies under Elm) 

Green-striped Maple Worm 


Habits While not prevalent every 
and year, this worm does serious 

Damage, damage to the Maples at 
times and has been known to 
strip trees of all their foliage. The moth 
appears in May or June, an insect with 
woolly body, pale yellow, and having a 
wingspread of two inches. Eggs laid on 
the underside of leaves hatch into cater¬ 
pillars within ten days. The caterpillar is 
smooth, a pale yellowish green, and grows 
to be two inches long; it is striped length¬ 
wise with dark green and has long horns 
back of the head. The worm feeds on 
leaves. 


Remedies. Natural enemies, including 
birds and insects, serve to 
keep this worm in check for the greater 
part of the time. When a tree becomes 
infested it should be sprayed with lead 
arsenate as soon as the caterpillars make 
their appearance. Prompt action is need¬ 
ed to prevent destruction of the foliage. 
To pick by hand such caterpillars as may 
be in reach is helpful in ridding young 
trees of this enemy. 


212 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


BORING INSECTS 
Sugar Maple Borer 


Habits This is the worst insect 
and enemy of the Sugar Maple. 
Damage. It differs from other borers in 
that its attack is made against 
trees which have not been weakened. As 
a result of its work large limbs and even 
entire trees may be killed. The parent 
insect appears between June and August, 
emerging from oval holes in the bark. At 
this stage it is a thick, black beetle, about 
one inch long, with short horns, and 
marked with brilliant yellow. Egg-laying 
occurs during July or August, causing 
discoloration of the bark upon the trunk 
and larger branches. The larvae begin 
boring soon after hatching, and their 
work causes a flow of sap and throws out 
a substance which often forms a small 
mass on the surface at the point of 
entrance. The first winter is spent on the 
sapwood and in the following spring the 
borer tunnels between bark and sapwood 
or into the outer 6apwood. The burrows 
during the second summer are half an inch 
or more in width and almost as deep, 
and they form serious wounds. If these 
tunnels girdle a tree or limb they cause 
death. 

The presence of the borer may be 
detected by various signs, including dead 
limbs, dead areas of bark, ridges or eleva¬ 
tions just under the bark, naked scars on 
limbs or trunk, especially near the base of 
a large limb, oval holes about half an inch 
wide and a substance resembling sawdust 
at the base of the tree or in bark crevices. 
Sometimes the leaves on a limb will sud¬ 
denly dry up and die, and a flow of sap 
and “sawdust” will be found somewhere 
on the limb. 


Remedies. Careful examination of 
trees for signs of the presence 
of borers should be made every spring and 
fall. If discoloration of the bark and 
exuding sap indicate that eggs have been 
laid, or if sawdust or excrement have 
exuded, prompt action for control should 
follow. The first step is to cut away the 
bark and follow the burrow till the grub is 
located and destroyed. The cutting must 
be done with great care, with clean sur¬ 
faces, and the wounds covered with creo¬ 
sote-tar mixture or two coats of good 
white lead paint. Sometimes the grub 
may be reached, and killed by probing 
with a flexible wire to the end of the 
burrow. Carbon disulphid injected into 
the holes will kill the borers if all openings 
are promptly plugged with wax, soap, 
clay or putty to shut out air, but when 
this method is used it is not possible to 
know that the borer has been killed. 

Spraying the tree in late summer with 
poisoned kerosene emulsion or miscible 
oil is effective in killing borers which have 
just penetrated the bark. The spray 
should be confined to the trunk and the 
larger branches and care must be taken 
that none of it reaches the foliage, as the 
leaves are seriously injured by these 
solutions. 

Trees which are badly infested, or dying 
trees or branches, should be cut down and 
burned. This should be done during the 
winter and spring, to prevent any of the 
adult beetles from emerging and causing 
damage to other trees. 


Leopard Moth 

(See description and remedies under Elm) 


Habits While seldom causing the 
and death of a tree, this worm is 

Damage, responsible for serious deform¬ 
ities which result in unsightly 
appearance. Its eggs are laid near 
wounds or scars and it is through such 


The most effectual treat¬ 
ment of this insect is to take 
steps to prevent a tree from 
becoming infested. Since 
wounds and scars invite the laying of eggs, 
it is important to see that no wounds 


Carpenter Worm 

Prevention 
and 

Remedies. 


TREE INSECTS AND THEIR CONTROL 213 


openings that the caterpillars, when 
hatched, enter the wood to begin their 
work. Wounds and scars are a constant 
invitation to this insect, and its preference 
for such injuries is a strong argument for 
protecting trees from injury and the care¬ 
ful dressing and treatment of wounds. 
The insect lives for about three years, and 
spends almost the entire time eating into 
and feeding on the heart-wood. The 
burrow may be half an inch in width, and 
will cause the wilting of twigs and unsat¬ 
isfactory growth. 

Egg-laying occurs early in the summer, 
and, soon after hatching, the caterpillar 
burrows into the heart-wood. When the 
insect emerges, after three years of dam¬ 
age, it is in the form of the adult moth. 


occur and that such injuries as may come 
are carefully and promptly cleaned and 
dressed with tar or paint. (Page 145). 

When a tree becomes infested, winter is 
the time for destroying the worm. Dur¬ 
ing that season all infested wood should be 
cut away and burned. Into the wounds 
caused by the cutting and the tunneling, 
carbon disulphid should be injected as 
an added measure of control, and the 
wounds should immediately be plugged 
and sealed with soap, grafting-wax, clay 
or putty. 


Maple and Oak Twig Pruner 


Habits This enemy specializes on 
and the Maple and the Oak, and 

Damage, while it does not kill the trees 
it impairs their looks by sever¬ 
ing twigs and causing them to fall to the 
ground or hang to branches. The grub 
passes the winter in the severed twig, 
emerging in June as a pupa or chrysalis. 
In July the parent beetle lays its eggs on 
small twigs and, upon hatching, the grubs 
begin at once to feed on the wood, making 
tunnels which sever the twigs. During 
the summer the ground is covered with 
twigs cleanly cut off, as with a saw. In 
the center of each twig is a burrow, filled 
with debris, and in this burrow will usu¬ 
ally be found a white grub with brown 
jaws. Many twigs almost severed will be 
seen hanging from the tree. Damage to 
the shape of the tree is the most serious 
result. 


Remedies. Since the insects remain 
in the severed ends, the best 
remedy is to gather and burn the fallen 
and hanging twigs. This should be done 
before June, the time for the adult beetles 
to leave the twigs in which the winter has 
been spent. Action at this time will pre¬ 
vent the laying of eggs for the production 
of a new brood. 


SAP-SUCKING INSECTS 
Oyster-shell Scale 


(See description and remedies under Elm) 


Cottony Maple Scale 


Habits Considerable damage some- 
and times results from the attack 

Damage, of this insect. The presence 
of the scale is first noticeable 
in June, when the body of the adult female 


Remedies. It is not always necessary 
to apply remedies, but if 
needed, a spraying with dilute kerosene 
emulsion, summer strength, is effectual if 
used during the hatching season. Brush- 


214 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


becomes conspicuous on a twig by the 
appearance of white egg masses resemb¬ 
ling cotton. The eggs hatch from early 
summer to August, and soon after hatch¬ 
ing the young settle on twigs and the 
underside of leaves and begin to feed, 
causing the leaves to turn a sickly yellow. 
Sometimes the leaves become covered 
with honeydew. Badly infested branches 
are apt to die. In winter the parent scale, 
brown in color, oval shaped, and about 
T V inch long, is found on the under side of 
twigs and branches. 


ing with a stiff broom over the surface 
covered by the white egg-masses will 
probably destroy the eggs and thus prevent 
the production of a new brood. In some 
communities the eggs are destroyed by 
jets of water at high pressure, applied by 
a power sprayer. Cutting and burning 
twigs carrying the egg-masses is simple 
and useful. 


Gloomy Scale 


Habits Although it prefers the soft 
and or silver Maple, this scale is 

Damage, apt to damage all Maples. Its 
attacks are especially common 
in the South. In appearance the scale te 
yellow and shaped like a pouch. The 
immature scale spends the winter attached 
to the bark, and devotes the spring to 
feeding. Its eggs are laid and hatched in 
the early summer, and the young crawl 
about for a day or two before settling 
down to feed and build new scales. Sev¬ 
eral generations follow the first, during the 
summer. The presence of the scale is 
indicated by a roughening of the smooth 
bark and the appearance of dark gray, 
scurfy patches with grain-like surface. 
Wherever the scales may have peeled off, 
white rings are found. 


Remedy. Miscible oil solution is the 
most efficient means of con¬ 
trol. This solution should be applied by 
spraying during the winter. It will usu¬ 
ally be found to serve the purpose. 


Terrapin Scale 


Habits This scale takes its name 
and from resemblance to a mini- 

Damage. ature terrapin. It is a raised, 
reddish scale, to | inch in 
length and half as wide, with ridges along 
its edges. The scale encrusts twigs and 
drains their vitality by sap-sucking, caus¬ 
ing the foliage to wilt and die. The hatch¬ 
ing season extends from June through the 
greater part of the summer, and the young 
insects, of licelike appearance, infest green 
shoots and the large veins of the leaves. 
On the infested twigs, and beneath them, 
a sootlike growth and honeydew are to be 
seen. It also infests Oriental Plane. 


Remedies. Early spring spraying 
applied before the buds have 
opened, is an efficient method of control¬ 
ling this insect. For this purpose kerosene 
emulsion and miscible-oil solution are 
most satisfactory. 


TREE INSECTS AND THEIR CONTROL 215 


SAP-SUCKING APHIDS 


Habits This insect is more injurious 
and than the cottony maple scale. 

Damage. It shows itself in the early 
spring as a fluffy mass resemb¬ 
ling cotton, on the under side of folded 
leaves, and it looks so formidable as to 
cause the tree owner much concern. The 
cottony mass contains aphids hatched 
from eggs which were laid the previous 
fall in cracks and under loose bark on the 
trunk of the tree. At maturity these 
insects leave the Maple and migrate to an 
Alder where they produce several genera¬ 
tions that feed on the bark of twigs and 
branches throughout the summer. In the 
fall the final generation returns to the 
Maple preparatory to the production of a 
brood which furnishes the eggs for the 
following season’s hatching. Very little 
injury is caused the Maple. 


Because of the relative 
harmlessness of this insect, 
treatment is not really necessary. Spray¬ 
ing with 40 per cent, nicotine sulphate or 
kerosene emulsion is effectual. 


Woolly Maple and Alder Aphis 
Remedies. 


Norway Maple Aphis 


Habits This insect is found on the 
and under side of Norway Maple 

Damage, leaves during the summer, 
causing them to show brown 
blotches. The leaves are also coated with 
the sticky substance known as honeydew, 
and so much of this substance is produced 
that the ground under the tree becomes 
more or less covered with it. The leaves 
sometimes fall, disfiguring the tree for the 
season and impairing growth. The aphis 
may be recognized by its yellowish green 
color, with markings of brown, its reddish 
eyes and long, hairy antennae. 


Remedy. Spraying is usually enough 
to destroy this insect. The 
spray should be 40 per cent, nicotine sul¬ 
phate, mixed with soap and diluted. It 
should be applied as soon as possible after 
the insects are discovered on the leaves, 
and the spraying should be aimed partic¬ 
ularly at the under side of the leaves. 
Where an insecticide is not available, a 
stream of water from a garden hose, 
applied frequently and with force, will 
keep this aphid under control. 


GALL INSECTS 


Gall Insects and Mites 


Habits Several forms of gall-mak- 
and ing insects and mites infest 

Damage. Maples, causing the growth of 
galls which disfigure the trees 
and sometimes cause the premature fall¬ 
ing of leaves. Serious damage is compara¬ 
tively rare. 


Remedy. When a tree is badly 
infested a thorough spraying 
with kerosene emulsion or miscible-oil 
solution will prove -effectual, if applied 
during the winter. 


2l6 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


OAK 

LEAF-CHEWING INSECTS 


Gipsy Moth 

(See description and remedies under Beech) 

Brown-Tail Moth—Oaks are very susceptible (See under Elm). 


Bagworm White-marked Tussock Moth 

Forest Tent Caterpillar 

(See descriptions and remedies under Elm) 

Fall Cankerworm 


Habits This leaf-chewer develops 
and from the spring cankerworm, 

Damage, the moth usually emerging 
from the chrysalis stage late 
in the fall. The parent moth is wingless, 
and crawls up nearby trees or bushes to 
lay eggs for the spring hatching. The 
characteristics of the worm and the dam¬ 
age it causes are the same as those given 
for the spring cankerworm. (See Elm). 


Remedies. The treatment for this 
worm is the same as that 
given for the cankerworm under Elm. 


BORING INSECTS 

Carpenter Worm Maple and Oak Twig Pruner 

(See descriptions and remedies under Maple) 

Leopard Moth 

(See description and remedies under Elm) 

Two-lined Oak and Chestnut Borer 


Habits This borer is the most seri- 
and ous insect enemy of the Oak. 

Damage. It prefers trees weakened by 
disease or by attacks from 
other insects, but may attack perfectly 
healthy trees. An attack by this insect is 
very apt to prove fatal. Laid in the early 
summer, in deep cracks in the bark, the 
eggs hatch into flat milky or yellowish 
white grubs with large heads. These 
grubs burrow through the bark and by 
fall each of them bores a tunnel which 
may be three feet in length diagonally 
and across the grain, in the inner bark and 
outer wood. During the winter the grubs 
remain in the outer bark, emerging late 
in the following spring as brownish or 
black beetles, % to % inches long, with 
two yellow lines along the back. The 
tunnels made by the borer are apt to 
girdle the tree and prevent the flow of sap, 
causing death. 


Treatment. When a tree is badly 
infested there is no remedy. 
When a tree is but slightly affected, spray¬ 
ing of the trunk during the fall with poi¬ 
soned kerosene emulsion will establish 
control. 


TREE INSECTS AND THEIR CONTROL 217 


Gray Aphis 


This is a large plant louse nearly yi 
inch long. It collects in masses on the 
under side of branches, sucking sap and 
exuding a honeydew more pronounced 
and objectionable than that of the Nor¬ 
way Maple aphid. They appear in mid¬ 
summer and increase until frost. They 
are not likely to kill the tree but branches 
may succumb where the infestation is 
severe. It is also sometimes seen on the 
Linden and on the Pin Oak. 


The treatment is the same as for other 
aphids. 


SAP-SUCKING SCALE INSECTS 
Pubescent Oak Kermes 


Habits This sap-sucking scale insect 
and confines its attacks to twigs 

Damage, and leaves, and does no dam¬ 
age beyond checking growth. 
It appears on Oaks only. The young 
insects, hatched late in the fall, spend the 
winter on the bark. In the spring, when 
White Oak buds begin to open, the insects 
attack the new leaves and tender young 
growth. The attack causes crumpling, 
and later in the season death results to 
the parts affected. The older leaves and 
twigs are studded with stationary brown, 
pea-shaped scale insects. Some of the 
leaves which have been killed remain on 
the tree all winter. 


Remedy. A simple means of control 
is spraying with a solution of 
one part of miscible oil to 15 parts of 
water. This should be applied when the 
insects appear in the spring, at the time 
White Oak buds begin to open. 


Obscure Scale 

Habits This sap-sucking scale insect Remedy. Winter spraying with mis- 
and has much the same character- cible-oil solutien is effectual 

Damage, istics and appearance as the in the control of this scale. 

Gloomy Scale, (see Maple), 
but is somewhat coarser. Its attacks are 
confined to Oaks, and it sometimes does 
serious damage to young trees and bran¬ 
ches. In the case of severe infestation 
it may cause the death of the tree or the 
affected parts. 

GALL INSECTS 
Oak Galls 


Habits The Oaks are especially 
and subject to the visitations of 

Damage, gall-making insects affecting 
all parts of a tree from roots to 
buds. The galls produced by these insects 
are swellings of various shapes and sizes, 


Treatment. No action is necessary, 
unless a fine tree is infested 
repeatedly for several years. In such a 
case the gall-laden parts should be cut and 
burned. The fallen leaves bearing the 
galls should be burned as well. 


218 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


particularly on twigs and the under side 
of leaves. There are several hundred 
varieties of the insects. Their principal 
damage is to the appearance of a tree and 
serious injury is not caused. 


POPLAR 

LEAF-CHEWING INSECTS 
Cottonwood, Poplar and Willow Leaf-beetle 


Habits These leaf-eaters are active 
and in every state of their develop- 

Damage. ment from birth to maturity 
and death, and the several 
succeeding generations of a single season 
may destroy all the leaves on a tree. 
They appear in the spring, after winter¬ 
ing on the tree, and at once begin feeding 
on the developing leaves, usually on the 
under side. In a short time the parent 
lays eggs on the under side of the leaves, 
producing a new generation. This pro¬ 
cess is repeated from three to five times 
each season. The presence of the insect 
is shown by leaves partly or entirely bit¬ 
ten through, early in the season, and later 
entirely consumed, by the beetles and 
grubs. As grubs the insects are short, 
stout, soft-bodied and spotted; upon 
developing into beetles they are hard- 
shelled, spotted or striped, and half an 
inch long. The eggs are yellow or reddish 
and are found in batches. Upon reaching 
maturity, the beetles issue from skins 
fastened to leaves, sometimes called 
“hangers.” 


Remedy. Spraying with lead arsenate 
is the most efficient measure 
of control for this insect. This spraying 
should be done as soon as the growth of 
the tree starts in the spring, when there 
are signs of the presence of the beetles. 
Care must be taken to direct the spray 
against the under side of the leaves. Soap 
added to the spraying material will be 
useful by causing the spray to stick to 
smooth leaves. 


Bagworm 

Spiny Elm Caterpillar 
Large Elm Sawfly 


Brown-Tail Moth 
Forest Tent Caterpillar 
White-marked Tussock Moth 
Fall Web worm 


(See descriptions and remedies under Elm) 


Cottonwood Dagger Moth 


Habits The leaf-chewing caterpillar 
and of this moth does serious dam- 

Damage. age to the Carolina Poplar and 
Willow in the prairie regions 
of the United States. A tree may be 
entirely stripped of leaves by the attacks 
of the two generations produced in a 
season. This caterpillar has a thick coat 


Remedy. Spraying is the most effectual 
remedy for this insect. Lead 
arsenate, thoroughly applied, will rid a 
tree of infestation. 


TREE INSECTS AND THEIR CONTROL 


219 


of yellow hairs, long, soft and drooping, 
with five tufts of stiff black hairs on its 
back. The moths emerge from the chrys¬ 
alis in the spring and lay their eggs. 

From these are developed the caterpillars, 
which feed on the leaves and which when 
at rest, curl up on the under side of leaves. 

SAP-SUCKING INSECTS 
San Jose Scale 

(See description and remedies under Ash) 


BORING INSECTS 
Aspen Borer 


Habits This borer does considerable 
and damage to Poplars, and is 

Damage, especially prevalent in the 
middle and western states. 
The parent insect is a gray beetle, cylin¬ 
der shaped, having brown spots. This 
beetle’s eggs are laid in a scar in the bark, 
in May, June and July. On hatching, the 
grub begins its mining, and spends its 
first year tunneling just beneath the bark, 
following this with two years of mining 
deep into the wood. The boring grub is 
cylindrical, yellowish, and has a number 
of fine, short, hard points on a plate 
immediately behind its head. The sign 
of this borer’s presence is the appearance, 
in June or July, of irregular scars on the 
trunk of a tree, especially near crotches, 
from which there exudes sap carrying 
fibrous dust from the boring. Later there 
is an enlargement of the holes, with 
increased mass of discharge. 


Remedies. Spraying infested trunks 
in late summer with poisoned 
kerosene emulsion or miscible-oil solution 
is effectual in destroying the young grubs 
in the outer bark. Another helpful meas¬ 
ure is painting the eggs with creosote 
or carbolineum. When the young borers 
begin to tunnel into the wood in the fall, 
they may be dug out and killed; careful 
attention should be given to dressing the 
wounds caused by this treatment. Trees 
badly infested should be cut and burned. 


Bronze Birch Borer 

(See description and control under Birch) 

Mottled Willow and Poplar Borer 


Habits Of the enemies of Poplars 
and and Willows this is the most 

Damage, dangerous. The parent insect 
is a broad and stocky snout- 
beetle of dark brown coloring mottled 
with gray, and with pinkish tint at the 
rear of the wing covers. In length it is 
about inch. After emerging from the 
chrysalis stage in June or July the beetles 
feed on the young bark and after a fort¬ 
night the female deposits eggs in cavities 


Remedies. The surest way to destroy 
this enemy is by cutting and 
burning infested limbs or badly infested 
trees. This must be done in early sum¬ 
mer, before the insects emerge from the 
interior, in order to make sure that all of 
them are destroyed. This season is a time 
of great activity on the part of the grubs 
and the exuding sap and “sawdust” make 
it easy to detect their presence. A 
thorough coating of the bark with lead 


220 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


gouged in the bark of young growth. 
Upon hatching, the young penetrate the 
bark and winter beneath it. In the spring 
they resume feeding on the cambium or 
inner bark. When fully grown, a few 
weeks later, they bore into the wood and 
into the pith, and tunnel a gallery in the 
latter soft material. The presence and 
activity of the borer are shown by dead 
or dying limbs, swellings and dead patches 
of bark, often cracked, on limbs or trunk, 
fading foliage and the oozing of sap and 
“sawdust” from points of attack. The 
half-inch white grub will usually be found 
in the burrow when an injured twig is split 
open. 


arsenate in July, has been found effectual, 
as has also the painting of trees with kero¬ 
sene emulsion in April. 


Cottonwood Borer 


Habits This borer does much dam- 
and age, causing death or so weak- 

Damage. ening a tree as to cause it to be 
broken off by the wind. The 
grub is long and cylindrical, yellow col¬ 
ored, and is hatched from eggs laid in 
July and August, in small punctures in 
the bark, at or below the ground level. 
The young borers mine under the bark 
and deep into the wood, throwing out 
shredded sawdust. The mines thus made 
at the base of the tree are responsible for 
the weakness that makes the tree fall 
before heavy winds. Sickly tops, and 
collections of the shredded borings on the 
ground, are the indications of the borer’s 
work. The borer continues his tunneling 
for two years. 


Remedies. Destruction by digging 
out the young borer is the 
most successful remedy; or carbon disul- 
phid, injected into the hole which shows 
fresh sap and borings, will prove effectual 
if the hole is promptly plugged and sealed 
with grafting wax, putty, soap or clay. 
Spraying the trunk with poisoned kero¬ 
sene emulsion, or miscible-oil, is advo¬ 
cated by some authorities for killing the 
borers when young. 


Carpenter Worm 

(See description and remedies under Maple) 
Twig Girdler 
Oyster-shell Scale 

(See descriptions and remedies under Elm) 


SAP-SUCKING GALL INSECTS 
Poplar Leaf-stem Gall-aphis 


Habits The gall formed by this 
and insect takes the form of a 

Damage, swelling of the stem, in which 
a large brood of living lice is 
born in midsummer. The aphids feed on 


Remedies. Unless the attack is 
exceedingly severe, no treat¬ 
ment is necessary. In extreme cases the 
destruction of the insects may be accom¬ 
plished by gathering the infested leaves 


TREE INSECTS AND THEIR CONTROL 221 


the tender growth and cause dropping of and burning them or dipping them in 
leaves, marring the appearance of the kerosene, 
tree and littering the ground underneath. 

Trees are not seriously damaged. 


SYCAMORE 

LEAF-CHEWING INSECTS 

Bagworm White-marked Tussock Moth 

(See descriptions and remedies under Elm) 
SAP-SUCKING INSECTS 
Sycamore Lace Bug 


Habits While it does not kill trees 
and nor cause serious damage, this 

Damage, sap-sucking insect is respon¬ 
sible for discoloring the foliage 
of the Sycamore and for causing the pre¬ 
mature falling of leaves, marring the 
tree’s beauty and littering the ground. 
The bug appears in the spring, with the 
starting of growth, and starts feeding on 
the foliage. Within a week or two the 
females deposit eggs on the under side of 
leaves, and these hatch in another fort¬ 
night. The young insects feed on the 
leaves immediately. The adult bugs have 
lacelike wings, prettily marked. They are 
to be found with their wingless offspring, 
in colonies on the under side of leaves. 
Two or more generations are produced in 
a single season. 


Remedy. The insect may be con¬ 
trolled and destroyed by 
spraying with soap solution, but this is 
not necessary unless the invasion is un¬ 
usually heavy. 


TULIP TREE 


SAP-SUCKING INSECTS 
Tulip Tree Aphis 


Habits This species of sap-sucking 
and insect infests branches, twigs 

Damage, and leaves during the growing 
season, feeding on the sap by 
means of pointed beaks. The presence 
of the aphis is indicated by sticky honey- 
dew on the parts affected, and by ants 
which feed on this honeydew. The aphis 
causes leaves to curl and fall, littering the 
ground, but no serious injury results. 
In appearance the insect is reddish brown, 
with pale green abdomen. 


Remedy. Spraying with 40 per cent. 

nicotine sulphate is effectual in 
destroying this insect. The spray should 
be applied as soon as the presence of the 
aphis is detected. 


222 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


Habits This sap-sucking scale insect 
and sometimes causes serious dam- 

Damage. age to the branches of a tree. 

The young spend the winter 
on the bark, and the following spring and 
summer they use the bark as their feeding 
and breeding ground. They are gray or 
brown, about yi inch long and almost as 
wide, and prominently raised. In severe 
attacks they encrust the underside of 
branches so thickly as to give them a 
sickly, blackened appearance, and the 
death of the branches may result. 


Winter spraying with crude 
petroleum is effectual. Mis- 
cible-oil solution, applied in winter, also 
has its advocates. On small trees whale- 
oil soap in a proportion of one pound to 
four gallons of water, makes a satisfac¬ 
tory spray, if applied just after the young 
are hatched, early in September. 


Tulip Tree Soft Scale 
Remedy. 


WALNUT 

Walnut Caterpillar 

(See description and remedies under Hickory) 


CHAPTER XX. 

MUNICIPAL CONTROL OF SHADE TREES 

O make street tree planting successful and satisfac- 



JL tory there must be one central head charged with full 
responsibility and armed with authority to establish and 
enforce suitable regulations. This is necessary in order 
to bring about systematic choice of species for planting, 
to insure correct spacing between trees, and to provide 
for proper pruning as well as adequate protection 
against insects and diseases. 

This central control is just as important in connection 
with trees as in the matter of sewer systems, water-pipes, 
sidewalks and paving. Public health and convenience 
make it necessary for these improvements to be in the 
hands of city or town or district authorities, and the pub¬ 
lic’s interest in the shade trees of the community calls for 
giving them similar treatment. When individual tastes 
and preferences in the matter of shade trees are permitted 
to control, one man may plant a Silver Maple, the man 
next door choose an Ailanthus, another select the Norway 
Maple, and near at hand may come in bewildering suc¬ 
cession a Scarlet Oak, a Sycamore, a Tulip, a Sugar 
Maple and a Horse Chestnut. The result of this wide 
variation of choice is certain to present a riot of size, 
shape and coloring as the trees develop and their widely 
different characteristics become emphasized. Such a 
street will have an uneven and ragged appearance satis¬ 
factory to no one. 

Each street shade tree should be looked upon in its 
relationship to all the other trees along that street, or, at 
any rate, to those along a particular part of the thorough- 


224 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


fare. The planting of them according to the personal 
tastes of the different owners is as inimical to the general 
effect as would be the paving of the street in front of each 
property according to the personal preferences of its 
occupant. In this selection it is imperative that there 
should be harmony of choice and concert of action. In a 
real sense, each tree planted belongs to the entire neigh¬ 
borhood. That the man who cuts down his own fine tree 
injures the property of his neighbors is recognized in the 
law of one state. To plant an undesirable species or type 
of tree is an offence equally serious. 

With the lack of uniformity that goes hand in hand with 
haphazard planting is irregularity in the spacing of trees. 
One man may want a tree in the center of his lot frontage, 
while his next door neighbor may choose to place one at 
each side. Individual preference may cause one man’s 
tree to crowd that of his neighbor so closely that both will 
soon be completely misshapen. Across the street there may 
be a gap of 200 feet or more between trees. One con¬ 
dition is as bad as another. Overcrowding and exces¬ 
sive gaps are to be avoided, as harmony is as essential in 
spacing as in species. 

There is further danger in individual tastes being 
exercised on the trees throughout the period of develop¬ 
ment and growth. Such danger exists with reference to 
trimming. One may like the trees pruned so low that the 
branches touch the hats of passers-by. Another may pre¬ 
fer the complete elimination of the lower branches, and 
accordingly, trim his thrifty and growing shade tree close 
to the very top; while a third may be too busy to trim his 
trees either way. Such diversity brings about an uneven¬ 
ness and raggedness fatal to the desired effect. 

Choice of tree guards may give rise to further disparity, 
if one uses fancy pine pickets, painted red, another wire- 


MUNICIPAL CONTROL OF SHADE TREES 225 


mesh, while a third uses wrought iron of highly ornate 
design, and a fourth none at all. The result of these vary¬ 
ing tastes and opinions is an assortment of tree guards as 
picturesque and kaleidoscopic as the mixture of trees them¬ 
selves, or of possible treatment in trimming. 

In the matter of other care, difficulties also arise from 
leaving the responsibility on the individual property 
owner. Protection from insects is one of the serious prob¬ 
lems in tree care. Insect enemies are various and insid¬ 
ious. They do not advertise and they do not carry 
banners nor herald their attacks with blare of trumpets. 
They come quietly and by stealth, and frequently serious 
damage is done before the property owner knows that any¬ 
thing is wrong. That every man along a street should give 
adequate study and attention to insect pests and their hab¬ 
its is hardly to be expected; and even the man who does 
know something about the subject may suffer because of 
lack of knowledge or indifference on the part of his neigh¬ 
bor, or because he lacks facilities for proper protection. Few 
things could be more discouraging than for the man who 
conscientiously and painstakingly rids his own trees of 
insects to find that a fresh supply drops in on him from the 
tree of his next door neighbor. 

These problems are cited without intent to discourage 
the tree planter, but rather with the thought of pointing 
out some of the difficulties that are possible and showing 
how they may be avoided. The solution is to be found 
in the municipal or community control of all shade trees. 
In European cities, the control is almost invariably vested 
in the municipal government, and in the United States, 
those cities which have made the greatest progress in shade 
tree development have established shade tree control with 
highly satisfactory results. 

15 


226 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


Through city, control it becomes a simple matter to 
see that trees are planted and cared for properly. The 
Shade Tree Commission, city tree expert or other respon¬ 
sible head of the work is in position to settle questions as 
they arise, including the choice of variety, exact location, 
details of planting, necessary care and protection and the 
other points involved in securing best results in shade tree 
development. Under such central control, uniformity of 
species along any street is assured by the provision that no 
property owner may plant an undesirable variety, or one 
lacking in harmony with its shade tree neighbors. Uni¬ 
formity in spacing is brought about by the location being 
officially approved in its relation to the location of existing 
or proposed trees. In short, no tree may be planted with¬ 
out formal approval of type and placement, and since 
these two points are the very foundation of good planting 
the importance of control is obvious. 

Central control may give further uniformity by regu¬ 
lating the type of guards that shall be used. This is a 
minor point, perhaps, but it is not to be ignored in the 
general effect of street development. 

In protecting trees against insects and diseases, central 
control is most important. In order that pests may be 
successfully combated, it is essential that their attacks 
should be anticipated as frequently as possible, or at least 
that they should be detected promptly after beginning 
their destructive work. To the untrained eye this is not 
always possible. The tree borer, for instance, works in the 
dark, hiding himself soon after birth by eating his way 
into the inner wood of the tree, there boring an intricate 
system of tunnels. To the observer of surface appearances, 
no damage is visible, possibly for years, or until the injury 
becomes manifest through dying branches. The tree is 
then frequently past saving. Under a well-organized 


MUNICIPAL CONTROL OF SHADE TREES 227 


shade tree government it is possible for the city’s trained 
workers to detect attacks and prevent serious injury. 
This applies to diseases as well as to insect enemies. By 
the timely detection and treatment of these dangers, the 
trees of an entire neighborhood may be saved. 

Even spraying, simple as it may seem, is a process best 
handled by the community-at-large. To spray a small 
tree, in the early years, is easily accomplished by the use 
of a garden spraying apparatus; but when the tree becomes 
larger, the outfit must be more powerful. For the individ¬ 
ual to have such equipment is scarcely expected. For the 
city or town government to have outfits which will care for 
all the trees of the community is the simplest, most 
efficient and most economical plan and, therefore, the 
most logical and desirable. 

Central control by the municipal government is to be 
commended from every point of view, and where such 
control is lacking, property owners should insist that it be 
provided. 

It will be found that the creation of such control will be a 
step of great importance in developing attractive streets. 

Probably the most satisfactory way of securing super¬ 
vision is through an unpaid commission of three or five 
members, which in turn employs an executive officer. In 
a small place a commission of three persons may be best, 
one being appointed every two years for a six-year term. 
In large places five members may be better, and the ideal 
term would be 10 years. A compromise would be a five- 
year term, a new member being appointed each year. The 
great reason for long-term appointees is that it takes two 
or three years for a member of such a board or commission 
to see and realize the things needed to be done and the 
policies that should be carried out. Because it takes a long 
time to get results in growing street trees, the policies 


228 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


should be as nearly continuous as possible and the terms 
of the members long enough to insure a majority of exper¬ 
ienced persons on the board at all times. 

The method of appointing the commissioners is not so 
important as that each shall be selected from the territory 
as a whole rather than from a part of it. In some places, 
where the term of service is ten years, each one’s successor 
is appointed by the remaining commissioners, subject to 
confirmation by the court. Where this is done a member 
is not permitted to succeed himself. In other places the 
commission is appointed by the court; in others, it is 
elected by the city legislative body or is appointed by the 
mayor, subject to the approval of the legislative body. 
The important point is to keep the administration as 
nearly as possible on a purely business basis. 

A good board can accomplish nothing without liberal 
funds. There are two methods of providing these: 
(i) By an appropriation from the general tax levy and (2) 
by direct assessment against the properties, collectible 
with the other taxes. If the funds are provided by appro¬ 
priation, a fixed minimum, expressed in millage of the tax 
rate, should be provided in the organization of the com¬ 
mission. This minimum should be such that a fair amount 
of maintenance work can be done when no other funds 
are available. Councils that appropriate money some¬ 
times hamper boards by withholding appropriations. 
Work of the nature of tree planting should not be per¬ 
mitted to suffer or be lost by a year’s neglect. The fund 
provided by this minimum amount should not be so large 
that regular additional appropriations will not be needed 
to carry on the work properly, as this will give a desirable 
point of contact of the commission or board with the 
ordinary channels of expressing public sentiment in the 
district interested. The minimum appropriation man- 


MUNICIPAL CONTROL OF SHADE TREES 229 

datory should be sufficient to prevent injury from lack of 
care of work already begun. A period of minimum care 
and attention, while a board and the people or their repre¬ 
sentatives are coming to a new understanding of one 
another’s position, is not necessarily a detriment, provided 
a reasonable maintenance has been possible in the interim, 
but without such care the results are ruinous, and work 
would better not be started than be undertaken with the 
possibility of such a period of neglect occurring. 

In New Jersey, 100 towns and cities have manifested 
recognition of the worth of trees by creating shade tree 
commissions. Every community in Massachusetts is 
safeguarding its trees through an appointed guardian, 
vested with adequate power. Other states and individual 
cities are giving increasing attention and appropriations 
to undertakings of the same nature and are making 
increasingly liberal expenditures to preserve existing trees 
and provide new ones to meet recognized needs. In the 
face of this, it is safe to assume that the practical American 
spirit will not be slow to insist that, if the municipality 
spends public funds for planting and protecting its trees, 
every precaution shall be taken to prevent private agen¬ 
cies or individuals from causing trees damage, which would 
undo the work and destroy the fruits of the labor and 
money expended for the conservation of shade and the 
beautification of the community. 

After a proper governing board is provided, the secur¬ 
ing of a competent executive is a matter of ordinary busi¬ 
ness procedure. It is usually desirable that he shall be not 
only a good executive but also a man with a knowledge of 
trees and trained in their care, so that he may be a com¬ 
petent adviser of the board as well as its executive. 

There has been a most unfortunate tendency to call 
such a man a “Forester” and the department that employs 


230 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


him a Forestry Department. It is no more appropriate to 
call a man in such a position a forester than an orchardist. 
A forester grows trees for the products that may be 
obtained when the tree is cut down, an orchardist grows 
them for the fruits that may be harvested during life,while 
the street tree warden cultivates them for the pleasure and 
comfort they may give by their very existence. He is more 
nearly comparable to a landscapist than to either of the 
other two, but it is a little difficult to determine just the 
name that should be applied. Arboriculturist would be 
distinctive and, if adopted, would not long seem formid¬ 
able. Tree Warden would make a perfectly good name. 
Other tenable names would be Town Tree Expert, Shade 
Tree Expert, and City or Town Tree Engineer. The 
name City Forester has been so much used largely because 
many graduates in forestry have deserted real forestry for 
this line of work, but have taken the title with them. It 
is to be hoped and expected that as the country develops, 
there will be many cities that will obtain forests that will 
require real forestry work of some one, in which case 
the continuation of the present practice of using the term 
“Forester” for street tree workers may prove very con¬ 
fusing, in not distinguishing real forestry work for a city 
from purely shade tree work. 


CHAPTER XXL 


LEGAL VALUE OF SHADE TREES 

S HADE trees have a value which may be translated 
into dollars and cents. In no other investment may 
the individual or community achieve manifold profits such 
as those accruing from tree planting. Along with the divi¬ 
dends in beauty and comfort must be reckoned the cash 
value of each tree successfully planted and grown. 

Strikingly illustrative of the dollar and cent value of 
shade trees is the definite appraisal placed on them by city 
authorities. Springfield, Massachusetts, may be cited as 
an example. Figures show that Springfield has more trees 
in proportion to population than any other American city, 
and the municipal government places an appraisal value of 
$100 on each tree. With a total of 25,000 trees in the city, 
this gives an appraised value of $2,500,000 to be counted 
as an added asset of the community. Ann Arbor, Mich¬ 
igan, uses a similar method of computation and reckons 
the value of its 8000 trees at $800,000. In reaching these 
figures the city officials followed the formula worked out 
by Prof. Filibert Roth, one of the foremost of American 
foresters, who formulated the first basis for shade tree 
valuation in this country. 

In undertaking to set a standard for tree values con¬ 
sideration must be given to many factors. A tree may be 
of value only for its lumber, or for its shade, or it may be 
as priceless as Hartford’s Charter Oak or the world famous 
Cambridge Elm. With much depending on location and 
individual beauty, it is impossible to approach shade tree 
values without the law of averages. 


231 


232 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


With a shade tree certain factors are recognized as 
establishing definite value. For the single specimen these 
are such characteristics as size, form, type of foliage, lon¬ 
gevity, ability to thrive under the local conditions, relative 
immunity from attack of insects and diseases, vigor of 
growth, shape, condition with respect to wounds and 
cavities and ravages of insects and diseases. 

Methods of appraisal have become fairly well stand¬ 
ardized through experience. As a result of close observa¬ 
tion, more than one tree formerly appraised at high value 
for street purposes has been “marked down” in some local¬ 
ities, because of the local development of increasing 
troubles affecting them, such as the ravages of the elm 
beetle or the leopard moth, inability to withstand dry 
weather, or other conditions. 

Location is a factor of much importance in connection 
with accurate valuation. A tree in the center of a narrow 
walk may become a nuisance as traffic increases, and for 
this reason it is not as valuable as one set in a tree-belt. 
A well-planted avenue gives to each of its trees greater 
value than an avenue poorly planted, and the tree which 
is one of a uniform line has greater value than the tree in a 
line which is irregular. A tree top close to others is of less 
value than one with plenty of room for its growth. A 
wide tree-belt gives a tree more value than does a narrow 
one. A narrow street lessens a tree’s value; a wide street 
enhances it, by giving it the necessary room and by mak¬ 
ing it possible for water mains, sewers and other under¬ 
ground construction to be placed farther from the tree’s 
roots. The greater the distance of a tree from the curb, the 
better its chances for satisfactory growth, and therefore, 
the greater its value, since nearness to the curb involves 
closer amputation of the roots in the placing of street, 
curb, and underground construction, with the added dan- 


LEGAL VALUE OF SHADE TREES 


233 


ger of injury from horses, street traffic and kindred ele¬ 
ments. The existence of numerous water and gas pipes, 
sewers and conduits is apt to necessitate much digging, 
and this interferes with tree values. Manufacturing dis¬ 
tricts, with their atmosphere of smoke and gases, are not 
good tree locations, and although trees are desirable in 
such districts, they do not attain the maximum of value 
against these handicaps. Similar disadvantages accrue to 
the tree so located as to suffer from sun-scorch or drought. 

Character and quality of soil enter largely into the 
value of the individual shade tree. If a tree is located in 
favorable soil, its value is much increased. Cultivated 
soil is better than a lawn, of course, but, next to cultiva¬ 
tion, lawn conditions are most favorable to proper growth 
and development. Abnormal soil conditions and unsuit¬ 
able soil texture work against a tree and its value. The 
distance from a residence and its direction in relation 
thereto, involve a tree’s worth in terms of shade and, 
therefore, play a part in its general appraisal. There is on 
oiled roads also a possibility of injury to the roots them¬ 
selves, if the oil filters through the soil. 

Shade tree valuation has been approached in various 
ways by students of the question. The methods followed 
may be summed up under seven headings, as follows: 

(1) The Arbitrary Method.—This is an elemental 
basis for providing penalties for damage to trees, with an ef¬ 
fort to establish some relationship between the penalty and 
the value of the tree itself. In Massachusetts, a state law 
authorizes the court to place a fine of not less than #5.00, 
nor more than #150 for injury or destruction of an in¬ 
dividual tree. The assessment of actual damage is left 
to the discretion of the court. The earliest application of 
this principle in American records was the action of the 
town meeting of Newark, New Jersey, on February 6, 


234 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


1676. This action was based on the premise that “The 
Town, seeing some trees spoiled in the streets by barking 
or otherwise * * * hath agreed that no green tree within 
the Town, as marked with N, shall be barked or felled, or 
any otherwise killed, under the penalty of 10 shillings 
(for each tree) so killed.” 

Judicial recognition of this method of computing dam¬ 
ages has been given in various suits at law. In Olean, 
New York, judgment of $150 against a gas company was 
awarded for four trees destroyed by escaping gas in soil, 
and this judgment was affirmed by the Court of Appeals. 
In Kansas City, judgment of $200 was obtained against a 
telephone company, because the linemen, without consult¬ 
ing the owner, had chopped out the top and center of a tree, 
causing its death. This decision is of especial interest, for 
the reason that the verdict involved a single tree only, and 
that tree a Poplar with a girth of but six inches. One won¬ 
ders what the verdict would have been in the case of a mag- 
ificent Elm or some other really desirable tree. In New 
York State a verdict of #500 apiece for the destruction of a 
row of trees was awarded against an offending construction 
company. In the case of Bathgate vs. North Jersey Street 
Railway Company, (70 Atlantic Reporter, 132 etc.) it was 
shown that four of Bathgate’s trees had been injured and 
eventually killed by electric current from the company’s 
wires. Damages were awarded in the sum of ^$300, and 
the decision of the lower court was upheld by the Court of 
Errors and Appeals. 

(2) Replacement Value— In the application of this 
method computation is based on the cost of removing a 
damaged tree and its subsoil, if the latter has become 
vitiated, and replacing them with a good tree and good 
soil. This plan contemplates that the new tree shall be, 
as nearly as practicable, of the same size as the tree which 


LEGAL VALUE OF SHADE TREES 


23$ 


had to be removed, and a guaranty is required to protect 
the owner in the matter of satisfactory growth for the 
transplanted tree. 

(3) The Roth Method. —This was evolved by Professor 
Filibert Roth, Dean of Forestry at the University of Michi¬ 
gan, and is based on profound study and observation 
covering many years. In his lectures Professor Roth 
discussed the subject for a generation or more and his 
calculations attracted such widespread attention that they 
were published in the Michigan Manual of Forestry , Vol. II. 
As a minimum estimate Professor Roth advocates com¬ 
puting the cost of establishing a tree at $15, plus com¬ 
pound interest at 5 per cent, for the 25 years which must 
elapse before the tree has achieved its full value by reaching 
the point of development at which it is really serving its 
full purpose. After this point has been reached, he figures, 
the tree “pays its own way” by its usefulness and beauty. 
The value of the tree, at the end of the 25 year period, 
therefore, is the #15 investment with added interest in the 
sum of #36.80, or a total appraisal of #51.80. Professor 
Roth suggests further that the cost of caring for the tree 
might also be added. 

(4) The Circumference Measurement Method. —This 
allows a valuation of approximately #5.00 per inch of cir¬ 
cumference, breast high measurement. 

(5) The Diameter Measurement Method. —Many 
landscape architects, foresters and others, who have given 
serious thought to the subject, advocate the method which 
bases appraisal on a tree’s diameter 4^ feet from the 
ground. This plan allows #10 per inch of diameter. 

(6) The Square-foot Basal Area Method. —This plan, 
devised by Mr. George H. Parker, of Hartford, Connecti¬ 
cut, bases valuation on an allowance of #75 per square 
foot of basal area, breast high measurement, subject to 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


236 

specified modifications and deductions for defects of 
species, trunk, crown and other factors. Under Mr. Par¬ 
ker’s supervision 271 trees on Washington Street, in Hart¬ 
ford, of which 216 were more than one foot in diameter, 
were appraised at $37,500.00 or an average of $138.41 for 
each tree. 

(7) The Square-inch Basal Area Method. —In figuring 
the area of a trunk this method reduces the computation to 
square inches. It has been used by Mr. W. W. Colton, to 
estimate the value of the street trees of that suburban 
beauty spot, Newton, Massachusetts. Taking a maxi¬ 
mum of 75 cents for each square inch of basal area, Mr. 
Colton, as city forester of Newton, placed a valuation of 
$1,516,602 on 12,577 trees. This was an average of 
$120.50, and the figures were reached after deductions as 
indicated in Plan 6. 

Newark, New Jersey, has had an annual appraisal of 
its trees for 10 years. This appraisal is made by the City 
Shade Tree Commission, at the request of the City Audi¬ 
tor. The inventory carries a valuation of the shade trees 
upon the public thoroughfares and in the city parks; and 
the financial department of the city government, very 
properly, lists the total amount among the assets of the 
municipality. The Newark figures have been based 
largely on replacement value, which is manifestly inade¬ 
quate, as the trees could not be replaced with others of 
equal size at the valuation of $2,037,532.50 given for 
66,308 trees, an average of $30.72. 

As a concrete example of results to be attained through 
application of various plans of appraisal, the Newark trees 
might be estimated under four methods. Under the Roth 
plan, the trees would be given a valuation of $3,330,884, 
equivalent to $50.23 apiece, which is still inadequate. By 


LEGAL VALUE OF SHADE TREES 


237 


figuring the basal area, and allowing $1.00 per square inch, 
instead of 75 cents as allowed under the Colton plan, the 
valuation averages $88.52 per tree, which reaches gross 
figures of $5,869,936; from which, in the absence of precise 
figures for each tree, a deduction of 10 per cent, is made 
for defects, including faulty location and insect damage, 
reducing the average per tree to $79.67 and the total for 
the city to $5,282,966. 

Guided by these various methods, a plan may be 
worked out which may be called the Newark method, 
attained by a combination of the Parker and Colton 
systems of computation. In this method let us use as a 
basis of value the square-inch area of the trunk, \]/2 feet 
from the ground, and allow a maximum valuation of $1.00 
to the square inch of basal area. In the case of a tree 18 
inches in diameter, with a basal area of 264.7 square inches, 
the value shown would be $264.70. This, of course, would 
apply only to a perfect tree with long life prospect, pro¬ 
perly placed and in ideal condition. Deductions must be 
made for (1) variation from desirable species; (2) condition 
of trunk; (3) condition of top; (4) position with reference 
to curb and other menacing construction, and probability 
of continuance of life; (5) environment, scenic value and 
general desirability. For each of these items a perfect 
tree would score 20 per cent. Proportionate deduction is 
made for defects or variations. The sum of the five items, 
after deductions have been made, represents the percentage 
of the tree’s value in relation to the value of the perfect tree. 

To apply this method to trees of various species 
requires the adoption of a basic value for the several 
varieties, formulated on a sliding scale which gives the 
highest mark to species most suitable for a particular 
community and most permanent as to life, and the lowest 
mark to those least desirable. As an example of this 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


238 

sliding scale a basic species-value for New Jersey towns 
and cities has been worked out which gives a species score 
of 20 to the American Elm, Norway Maple, Red Oak and 
Pin Oak, and which grades other trees thus: Oriental Plane 
18, European Linden 18, American Ash 17, Red Maple 17, 
Sycamore Maple 17, Sugar Maple 16, Horse Chestnut 16, 
Tulip 16, Silver Maple 15, and the Carolina Poplar 15. 

All things considered, this basis of valuation seems to 
come nearer than any other to establishing the true value 
of to-day, and does not conflict radically with Professor 
Roth’s dictum that “from the standpoint of city beauti¬ 
fication, and considering the enjoyment people get out of 
them, good shade trees are worth $100 apiece.” This 
method differs from the Parker and Colton plans in no 
other particular than in the value of the unit. It must be 
remembered that the Roth method was promulgated 30 
years ago, the Parker method in 1907 and the Colton 
method in 1916. In keeping with all else, tree planting 
has increased in cost within recent years, and it is proper 
to recognize this in formulating a present-day table of 
values. 

Application of various figures to individual trees 
affords concrete example of the workings of the plans of 
appraisal. The experience of Newark, New Jersey, may 
be accepted as typical of what can be accomplished in any 
municipality and for this reason recourse could be had 
to the admirable records of that city in working out a table 
of values for particular specimens. This table would 
take account of one tree of each of nine species set out in 
Newark, since the city undertook municipal planting 
in 1904. These 9 trees could be regarded as thrifty 
representatives of the city’s total planting of 32,000 trees, 
showing the rate of growth under favorable conditions. 


LEGAL VALUE OF SHADE TREES 


239 


They would be all the more typical for the reason that 
Newark can point to a great many other trees of each species 
which have shown the same rate of growth and develop¬ 
ment. The trees included in the tabulation would be 
selected specimens in perfect condition, with no deduction 
necessary for defects. The Newark authorities maintain 
that of much this perfect condition is due to the excellent 
tree guards used, and this is a point for the consideration 
of other cities. 

Familiarity with the cost of replacing these trees with 
others of similar size prompts the statement that the Roth 
method does not produce figures that would cover replace¬ 
ment value at the present increased costs. On the other 
hand, the allowance of #10 for each inch of diameter 
gives figures that appear excessive in some instances, and 
this is as much to be avoided as undervaluation. 

Tree appraisal figures tell their own story. They bear 
out the truth that tree planting is to be considered as an 
investment rather than as an expense, and they show that 
the investment is profitable in dollars and cents. 


CHAPTER XXIL 

SHADE TREES AND THE LAW 

I N law, as well as from the point of view of city beau¬ 
tification, shade trees have come to have recognized 
value. This legal recognition manifests itself in the writ¬ 
ing of laws to protect trees and to encourage their plant¬ 
ing. Laws of this nature exist in various parts of the 
United States as matters of state legislation and in many 
communities as items of regulation by cities, towns and 
villages. Wherever such laws have been put into effect 
their operation has stimulated the planting of shade trees 
and giving them the care necessary for their best 
development. 

Shade tree legislation in the United States began with 
the passage of a state law by the Commonwealth of 
Massachusetts in 1854. Prior to that time, there had been 
scattered attempts to regulate the growth of trees, but this 
was the first law to give the trees of an entire state ade¬ 
quate attention. Theretofore, shade trees had been planted 
by the citizens of communities throughout the country 
on streets and private property bordering the highways, 
but little thought had been given to the care and replace¬ 
ment of the trees planted. This part of the undertaking 
was left for future generations. 

The Massachusetts law was an important step in the 
direction of regulation, but it lacked much that was neces¬ 
sary to make it properly effective. It remained for New 
Jersey, in 1893, to pass the first really comprehensive state 
law pertaining to the care of shade trees. In 1899, Massa¬ 
chusetts once more took the question before its legislature, 
with the result that a law was passed providing that every 

240 


SHADE TREES AND THE LAW 


241 


town must elect a Tree Warden, and defining the duties 
and powers of the office thus created. In 1907, Pennsyl¬ 
vania enacted a shade tree law to a large extent modelled 
on the New Jersey law and its amendments. These three 
states were the pioneers. The successful operation of their 
laws attracted the attention of people elsewhere, and 
numerous states now have laws governing the planting and 
care of shade trees. It is a tribute to the foresight and in¬ 
telligence with which New Jersey, Massachusetts and Penn¬ 
sylvania handled the subject that the laws of these three 
states are still considered the models for such legislation. 

The close kinship of the laws of New Jersey and Penn¬ 
sylvania make it possible to summarize them as one. 
Under the provisions of these measures, the governing 
body of any city, town, township, borough or other munic¬ 
ipality may vote to accept the provisions of the law for 
application locally; a shade tree commission is then estab¬ 
lished and to this commission all matters pertaining to 
shade tree planting and care are entrusted. Nothing can 
be done without the approval and authority of the com¬ 
mission. The law covers planting, pruning, spraying and 
removal, thus giving the local government the complete 
control so necessary to satisfactory development of a shade 
tree system. 

Additional power of much importance is given through 
the provision that the shade tree authorities need not 
wait until property owners decide that their particular 
street should have shade trees. The commission may 
proceed on its own initiative. After determining that a 
street needs trees, it gives public notice of intention to 
plant. All persons interested are then given a hearing on 
the subject, and after this, the work proceeds along lines 
followed in other public improvements. The commission 
determines the species to be used and the exact location of 

16 


242 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


each tree. After the planting has been completed, the cost 
is certified to the taxation authorities, to be assessed 
against the property directly affected. This assessment 
becomes a lien on the property and the taxes are collected 
with other taxes. Funds for maintaining the shade tree 
department are derived from a tax in an amount not to 
exceed ^ of a mill on the dollar of assessed valuation in the 
municipality. 

The law authorizes the commissions to pass ordinances 
covering all phases of planting, protection, regulation and 
control of shade trees. These have proved extremely 
efficient in protecting trees from damage by electric light, 
telephone and telegraph companies and other public util¬ 
ities and in preventing wilful or malicious injury by indi¬ 
viduals. Shade trees need protection and it is only 
through the operation of laws, with proper penalties, that 
this protection can be given. 

The shade tree laws of Massachusetts, as codified and 
revised in 1915, make it compulsory for every town to 
elect a tree warden, to have charge of the planting and 
care of shade trees. His powers are very definite and he is 
responsible for proper shade tree development in his com¬ 
munity. In cities, there are no tree wardens, but the 
duties and responsibilities created under the shade tree 
law are imposed on such city officials as have charge of the 
care of trees. In addition to outlining the duties and 
powers of the town and city authorities, the law also 
provides that the tree warden of a town or the proper 
officials of a city may pass special ordinances and regula¬ 
tions governing shade trees, adapting these regulations to 
local conditions, but without conflict with the state law. 

In the protection of trees along public thoroughfares 
the Massachusetts law has proved itself very efficient, but 
it has not accomplished as much as the laws of some other 


SHADE TREES AND THE LAW 


243 


states along the line of promoting the planting of trees. 
The weak point in this respect is that the state law pro¬ 
vides no funds for carrying out the provisions of the act. 
The matter of raising funds by taxation is left to local 
option, which has crippled the operation of the law in 
many communities. Some municipalities have officers 
empowered to enforce the shade tree laws, but are not 
sufficiently aroused to the importance of the question to 
appropriate sufficient funds for the maintenance of the 
work. The result is a failure to realize the best possibilities 
in shade tree development. Another criticism of the Mass¬ 
achusetts law is that it is a mistake to have tree wardens 
elected. This subjects the office to political influences, 
which are undesirable and which could be avoided by 
having the office appointive, subject to approval by a 
State officer trained in tree culture and connected with the 
Department of Conservation. 

Perhaps the most important feature of the Massachu¬ 
setts law is its requirement that every town in the state 
must have a tree warden. This provision is tangible 
recognition of the value of shade trees to a community, 
and placing it on the statute books has resulted in arous¬ 
ing new interest in the subject of trees and tree planting. 
The powers conferred on the municipal authorities are 
necessarily broad, but even in this respect attention is 
given to preventing an unsatisfactory use of these powers 
in certain important particulars. In the original law the 
final decision for the removal of public trees rested with 
the tree warden. Under the revised law recognition is 
given the right of the private citizen and property owner 
to have a voice in the disposal of such trees. To this end 
the warden or other official is required to hold a public 
hearing, duly advertised, before any public tree may be 
removed. Even after this hearing there is provision for 


244 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


appeal to the highest officer of the town or city, followed 
by an appeal to the courts if the objector considers it of 
enough importance. This feature has been found well 
worth while. 

Study of the various laws and observation of their 
workings suggest that an ideal arrangement would be a 
combination of the best features of the laws of New Jersey, 
Pennsylvania and Massachusetts. This could be achieved 
through an enactment requiring that every city or town 
appoint a shade tree commission, and that this body 
employ a trained expert to give attention to the interests 
of the trees. Provision should be made, of course, for 
revenue for carrying on the work. The plan might well 
be extended to provide that towns too small for an arrange¬ 
ment of this kind might combine with other towns and 
organize a joint council to handle shade tree matters for 
all of the towns involved. One expert could thus serve 
several towns with slight cost to each of them. Division 
of the expense would be easily determined on a basis of 
property valuation, population and area. A plan of this 
kind has large possibilities in the way of inviting interest 
in shade trees in communities which might otherwise con¬ 
sider themselves too small to undertake the proper hand¬ 
ling of the question. 

A good state law should have the support of good local 
laws in the communities throughout the state. Important 
cities in the three states named have followed up the pass¬ 
age of general laws by the passage of local ordinances and 
special laws. Some of these municipal governments have 
been working under such legislation for a number of years, 
and in many of them the results have been highly satis¬ 
factory. Examples of carefully framed and extremely 
practical regulations are the ordinances in effect in New¬ 
ark, New Jersey; Philadelphia and Johnstown, Pennsyl- 


SHADE TREES AND THE LAW 


245 


vania; and Boston, Massachusetts. Several other Massa¬ 
chusetts town and cities have admirable laws, as Newton, 
Worcester and Fitchburg. The village of Brookline has 
what is perhaps the best organized shade tree department 
in Massachusetts and its success has been such as to make 
it well worth copying. 

It is necessary, of course, in formulating local legis¬ 
lation, to have due regard to the local conditions. The 
regulations which would be wise and necessary in one com¬ 
munity might not fit some other place. There are many 
general requirements, however, which will apply anywhere 
and these must not be neglected. Among the latter are 
the regulations for shade tree protection from injury or 
damage. In any town or city it should be made illegal 
and subject to a fine, for any person to affix or attach any¬ 
thing to any tree or to the guard or stakes protecting a 
tree. This is intended primarily to bar the nailing of 
advertising signs to trees or the fastening of wires or other 
things to them. Similar provision should be made to pre¬ 
vent the cutting, painting or marking of trees for any pur¬ 
pose other than protection of the trees themselves, and 
then only under written permit and directions from the 
authorities. It is also necessary to forbid cutting, destroy¬ 
ing or in any way injuring trees; and since climbing causes 
injury, this should be expressly forbidden. 

Safeguards should also be provided to prevent any 
person from placing about the base of a tree such harmful 
substances as oil, salt water, liquid dye or other matter 
injurious to tree life, including waste from ice-cream 
freezers. This provision should be so devised as to prevent 
the discharge of gas in any way that will harm the root 
system of trees, or any other parts. Penalties should be 
provided for any person who permits a horse or other 
animal to injure a tree by biting or otherwise. Stringent 


TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 


246 

legislation is also necessary to make it unlawful for any 
person to hamper or interfere with the work of an author¬ 
ized employee of the shade tree department in the pursuit 
of his duties in caring for and preserving trees. 

With increasing interest in municipal shade tree activ¬ 
ities there will necessarily be many points on which local 
experience will be lacking. The shade tree authorities 
will find it well to profit by the experience of other com¬ 
munities, for in this way they will learn many of the things 
necessary. One of the foremost of these is that no man 
should accept a position of authority without a full sense 
of his obligation to the community. He cannot afford to 
become lax in his knowledge of shade tree laws or the 
correct interpretation of them, and when he is in doubt on 
any point he should seek the counsel of his municipal, legal 
adviser, or the State Forestry authorities. The tree 
official will find that it is undesirable to antagonize prop¬ 
erty owners unnecessarily. Even in carrying out a 
requirement that causes objection, tact and discretion will 
serve better than arbitrary methods. 

An important point in popularizing a shade tree 
department is that the official in charge make friends 
with the property owners. One of the surest ways to bring 
this about is to consult the owners of adjacent property 
when contemplating important pruning or other work on 
the trees along any street. To go at work of this kind 
without conference frequently causes trouble. Experi¬ 
ence shows that if the property owners are consulted 
beforehand, they will almost invariably agree to the plan 
under consideration. 

Some of the other important points to be regarded by 
the successful tree warden or supervisor are that irrespon¬ 
sible tree peddlers or self-styled repair experts must be 
discouraged, that the rights of the trees come first, and that 


SHADE TREES AND THE LAW 


247 


public service corporations must not be allowed to damage 
trees through the stringing of wires, the laying of pipes or 
in any other way. 

Some states have tried to curb incompetent tree 
workers by a system of licenses based on examination. 
This would be a help where there is not a thorough system 
of tree supervision as there is in Massachusetts and would 
be a help to private individuals wishing to have work done 
on their own grounds. 

When appropriations are insufficient to meet reason¬ 
able demands the issuing of permits to responsible and 
competent firms or adjoining property owners for planting 
or pruning puts the work on a wrong basis, but is better 
than no control. 


248 TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 

ARBOR DAY IS OBSERVED ON FOLLOWING DATES. 


Alabama. February 22. 

Arizona. In five northern counties, Friday following first day of April. 

Elsewhere, Friday following first day of February. 

Arkansas. First Saturday in March. 

California. March 7. 

Colorado. Third Friday in April. 

Connecticut. In early May, by proclamation of the governor. 

Delaware. In April, by proclamation of the governor. 

Florida. First Friday in February. 

Georgia. First Friday in December. 

Hawaii...... First Friday in November. 

Idaho. Various dates in April selected by county superintendents. 

Illinois. Proclamation of the governor. 

Indiana. Third Friday in April. 

Iowa. Proclamation by the governor. 

Kansas. Option of the governor. 

Kentucky. In the fall by proclamation of the governor. 

Louisiana. Second Friday in January, by resolution of State board of 

education. 

Maine. Option of the governor. 

Maryland. Second Friday in April. Proclamation of the governor. 

Massachusetts. Last Saturday in April. 

Michigan. Proclamation of the governor. Usually last Friday in April. 

Minnesota. Proclamation of the governor. Usually latter part of April. 

Missouri. First Friday after first Tuesday in April. 

Montana. Second Tuesday in May. 

Nebraska. April 22 (birthday of J. Sterling Morton). 

Nevada. Proclamation of the governor. 

New Hampshire. Proclamation of the governor. 

New Jersey. Second Friday in April.. 

New Mexico. Second Friday in March. Proclamation of the governor. 

New York. Friday following 1st of May. 

North Carolina. Friday after November 1. 

North Dakota. Option of the governor. 

Ohio. Proclamation of the governor. About the middle of April. 

Oklahoma. Friday following the second Monday in March. 

Oregon. Second Friday in April. 

Pennsylvania. Proclamation of the governor. 

Porto Rico. Last Friday in November. 

Rhode Island. Second Friday in May. 

South Carolina. Third Friday in November. 

South Dakota. No law, but generally observed in April throughout the State. 

Tennessee. Appointed by county superintendents, in November. 

Texas. February 22. 

Utah. April 15, by statute. 

Vermont. Option of the governor. Usually first Friday in May. 

Virginia. Proclamation of the governor. In the spring. 

West Virginia. Usually observed on the second Friday in April. 

Wisconsin. Proclamation of the governor. Usually the first Friday in May. 

Washington. Proclamation of the governor. Usually the first Friday in May. 

Wyoming. Proclamation of the governor. Usually the first Friday in May. 


The “Father of Arbor Day” was J. Sterling Morton, who, at a meeting of the 
State Board of Agriculture in Lincoln, Neb., on Jan. 4, 1872, introduced a resolution 
setting aside April 10 for tree planting. Kansas and Tennessee took up the lead in 
1875 and in 1882 North Dakota and Ohio followed. Other states then adopted the 
idea. In 1885 the Nebraska legislature passed an act changing the date to April 22, 
Mr. Morton’s birthday, and making it a legal holiday in the State. 






















































INDEX 


Ability of trees to resist injury from gases, 
170 

Accessories, Spraying, 194 
Ailanthus or Tree of Heaven, 66 
Alder Aphis, Woolly Maple and, 215 
American (or White) Elm, 50 
American Legion plants Memorial Trees, 
109 

American Plane, 34 
Ammoniacal Copper Carbonate, 179 
Formula, 179 
How to make, 180 
Appearance of, 180 
Ancient History, Trees in, 18 
Anthracnoses, 180 
Anticipating insect attacks, 225 
Aphids, Gall, 208 
Sap-sucking, 199 
Aphis, Box Elder, 200 
Gall, 210 
Gray, 217 
Norway Maple, 215 
Tulip Tree, 221 
Woolly Elm-bark, 207 
Woolly Maple and Alder, 215 
Apples, Cedar, 182 

Appraisal, Methods of shade tree, 232, 
233 

Appropriations for shade tree work, 228 
Arsenate of lead powder, 188 
Ash, Differentiating characters between 
Green and White, 30 
Green, 30, 57 
Leaves, 30 
Mountain, 64 

Principal insects attacking: Ash-bud 
gall-mite, 197; San Jos6 scale, 197 
White, 30, 57 _ 

Ash-bud Gall-mite, 197 
Ash-leaved Maple or Box Elder, 32,62 
Aspen, American, 38 
Large-toothed, 38 
Quaking, 38 
Borer, 219 

Associations, Memorial Tree, 117 
Atmospheric influences, Damage to shade 
trees from, 169 

Bagworm, 202, 211, 216, 218 
Bands, Tree, 195 
Bark Beetle, Hickory, 209 
Bark grafting by bridging, 160 
Injuries, 152 


Bark, Loosened, 155 
Treatment of torn, 152 
Barrel hand-pump for spraying, 192 
Basic value of shade tree varieties, 238 
Basswood, 40, 52 

Battle-ground Oak at Guilford Court 
House, 124 

Beech, American, 38, 64 

Characteristics, range, beauty and 
adaptability of, 106 
European, 40 
For roadside planting, 106 
Identifying characters of, 38 
Principal insects attacking: Gipsy 
moth, 198; Aphids, 199 
Beetle, Elm-leaf, 201 

Cottonwood, Poplar, and Willow-leaf, 
218 

Hickory Bark, 209 
Big-leaf Maple, 61 
Birch-borer, Bronze, 199 
Birch, Canoe, 40 
Grey, 40 

Identifying characters, 40 
Paper, 40 

Principal Insects attacking: bronze 
birch borer, 199; Gipsy moth, 199 
White, 40 

Black knot, Treatment of, 176 
Black Locust, 65 

Black Walnut for beauty and utility, 102 
For California highways, 103 
Bolting Limbs, 158 
Bolts, Tree, 158 
Bordeaux Mixture, 177 
Formula, 178 
How to make, 178 
Borer, Aspen, 219 
Bronze Birch, 199 
Cottonwood, 220 
Elm, 205 
Linden, 210 

Two-lined Oak and Chestnut, 216 
Sugar Maple, 212 
Borers, Work of, 187 
How to control, 187 

Boring Insects, Habits and damage of, 197 
How to remedy, 197 
Boston Common, Trees of, 125 
Box Elder or Ash-leaved Maple, 3 2 
Principal insects attacking, 200 
Branching, Pruning for proper, 141 
Bridge grafting, 160 


249 



25 ° 


INDEX 


Bronze birch borer, habits and damage 
of, 199, 219 

Brookline Shade Tree Department, 245 
Brown-Tail Moth, 201, 211, 216, 218 
Buckeye, Ohio, 30 
Sweet, 30 
Red, 30 
Bur Oak, 49 

Butterfly Caterpillar, Hackberry, 208 
Butternut, Characteristics, range and 
adaptability of, 104 
For roadside planting, 104 
Button-Ball tree, 34 
Buttonwood, 34 

California laws protect nut groves and 
fruit orchards, 97 
Live Oak, 49 
Old Redwoods, 120 
Shade Tree splendor of roads, 91 
Sycamore, 55 
Cambridge Elms, 125 
Camphor Tree, 58 
Canker, Nectria Cinnabarina, 176 
Cankerworm, 204 
Habits and Damage, 216 
Capitols, Shade trees of world’s, 19 
Carbon disulphid, How to use, 119 
Action of, 192 
Caring for shade trees, 131 
Carolina Poplar, 38, 63 
Carpenter worm, Habits and damage of, 
212, 216, 220 

Caterpillar, Habits and damage of Spiny 
Elm,202 208 
Hackberry butterfly, 208 
Cavities, Bolt reinforcement in large, 164 
How to fill, 162 
Treatment, 161 
Cedar apples, 182 

Cement dust injurious to foliage, 171 
Center strip type of street planting, 72 
Chamber of Commerce plants Memorial 
Trees, 118 

Charter Oak, Hartford’s, 231 

Chestnut Blight, 106 

Chestnut borer, Two-lined Oak and, 216 

Chestnut, Horse, 30, 64 

Chestnut not recommended for planting, 

io 7 . 

Chewing insects, 186 
Leaf, 187 

Chisel, Pruning, 148 

Circumference measurement method, 
The 235 

Cities famous for trees, 20 
Citrus fruits, Pecans replace, 100 
City authorities appraise shade trees, 
How, 233 
City Beautiful, 19 


City shade tree control, 223 
City trees, Struggle for existence of, 183 
Colton plan of shade tree valuation, 237 
Commission functions, How a shade tree, 
24 1 . 

Commission, Organization of a shade tree, 
227 

Powers of, 241 

Common and scientific names of trees, 
Use of, 27 

Community ownership of spraying and 
other equipment, 185 
Compressed air pumps, 193 
Conifers, The, 65 
Constitutional Elm, The, 124 
Contact insecticides, 187 
Contact sprays, Formula for various 
kinds of, 188 

Control of street planting, Importance 
of central, 224 

Cooperation in shade tree work, 246 
Cornwallis Oak, 124 
Cottonwood, 38 
Borer, 220 
Dagger Moth, 218 

Cottonwood, Poplar and Willow Leaf- 
beetle, 218 

Cottony Maple Scale, 213 

Creosote oil spray, Uses of, 190 

Creosote, Uses of, 145 

Cross of Trees at Macon, Georgia, 117 

Crotches, Splitting, 158 

Cultivation of base soil, 132 

Curb on tree planting, Effect of, 232 

Dagger Moth, Cottonwood, 218 
Damage to trees by gases, 166 
From excavation, 151 
Damage, Penalties for tree, 233 
Diameter measurement method, 235 
Diseases and their treatment, Tree, 172 
Diseases of trunks, limbs and roots, 174 
Foliage, 177 

Dust injurious to trees, Cement, 171 
Death of trees caused by gases and 
vapors, 171 
Dentistry, Tree, 161 
Danger from injury to street trees, 134 
District of Columbia, Famous trees of, 
122 

Digging for transplanting, 79 
Double action hand-pumps, 192 
Drainage of street trees, Irrigation and, 
84, 132 

Effect of leaking gas on trees, 167 
Effect of street on shade tree values, 232 
Elder, Ash-leaved Maple or Box, 32 
Principal insects attacking, 200 




INDEX 


251 


Elm, American (or White), 34, 50 
Borer, 205 

Difference between American and 
English, 36 
English, 36, 51 
Huntington, 51 
Identifying characters, 36 
The Constitutional, 124 
Principal insects attacking: elm-leaf 
beetle, 201; brown-tail moth, 201; 
San Jose scale, 202; bagworm, 202; 
spiny elm caterpillar, 202; fall web- 
worm, 203; forest tent caterpillar, 
203; cankerworm, 204; white-marked 
Tussock moth, 204; large elm-sawfly, 
205; elm borer, 205; Leopard moth, 
206; twig girdler, 206; oyster-shell 
scale, 207; woolly Elm-bark aphis, 
207; European elm scale, 207; gall 
aphids, 208. 

Elm-bark aphis, Woolly, 207 

Elm-leaf beetle, 201 

Elms of New England, 25 

Enemies of shade trees, Insect, 149, 183 

English Elm, 36, 51 

Entomologists, State, 184 

Europe, Nut and fruit trees on roads of, 97 

European Beech, 40 

European Elm scale, 207 

European Linden, 53 

Excavation injury to street trees, 151 

Executive, Proper title for shade tree, 230 

False Plane Tree, 34 
Fall cankerworm, 216 
Fall web worm, 203, 218 
Fame for Trees, Hall of, 120 
Famous trees of District of Columbia, 122 
Fertilizer, Amount necessary, 133 
Soil requirements, 133 
Fiftieth Anniversary of Arbor Day 
planting, 113 
Filling for cavities, 161 
Financial returns from nut trees, 101 
Fine for damaging trees in Massachusetts, 
233 

Fines for injuring trees in Olean, N.Y., 234 
In Kansas City, 234 
In New York State, 234 
In Bathgate, N J., 234 
Fish-oil soap spray, How to use, 191 
Florida plants Roads of Remembrance, 
H9 

Foliage diseases, 177 

Forest tent caterpillar, 203, 211, 216, 218 

Formal pruning sometimes desirable, 43 

Formation by pruning, 140 

Formula for Bordeaux Mixture, 178 

Fruit groves near highways, Nut and, 96 


Fruiting bodies of fungus, 173 
Fumigation of nursery stock, 186 
Fungi, Life history of, 172 
Treatment of, 173 
Fungicides, 178,179 
Fungus brackets, 174 
Different types of growths, 172 

Gall Aphids, 208 
Gall Aphis, 210 
Poplar leaf-stem, 220 
Gall Insects, 215 

Mites and Hackberry, 208 
Gall-mite, Ash-bud, 197 
Galls, Oak, 217 

Gas injured trees, How to save, 168 
Gas leaks, How to detect, 167 
Gas, Trees susceptible to injury from, 170 
Gases, Damage to trees by illuminating, 
166 

Atmospheric, 170 
Injury from, 152 
General Sherman Tree, 120 
Ginkgo, 51 

Identifying characters, 38 
Gipsy moth, 198, 199, 209, 216 
Girdler, Twig, 206 
Gloomy Scale, 214 
Grafting, Bridge, 160 
Grant Elm, The, 124 
Grant Trees, General, 124 
Grant’s Tomb memorial planting, 113 
Gray aphis, Description of, 217 
Great Britain, Road of Remembrance 
Association of, 119 
“Great Tree Maker,” The, 112 
Green Ash, 57 

Green-striped Maple worm, 211 
Grove of Remembrance at Baltimore, 111 
Grove of States at Los Angeles, The, 111 
Growth of shade trees, Stimulating pro¬ 
per, 131 

Guards, Tree, 134 
Painting, 137 
Types of, 135 
Value of, 239 
Gum, Sweet, 56 

Principal insects attacking: forest tent 
caterpillar, 208 
Guying close to crotch, 159 

Hackberry, 66 

Characteristics of, 36 
Gall insects, 208 

Principal insects attacking: spiny elm 
caterpillar, 208; hackberry butterfly 
caterpillar, 208. 

Hall of Fame for Trees, The, 120 
Harding endorses Roads of Remem¬ 
brance, President, 116 


7 




252 


INDEX 


Harding Plants Memorial Trees, no 
Harmony essential in street planting, 68 
Hawthorns for roadside planting, 94 
Health factors, Shade trees as, 21 
Heart-rot, Red and white, 174 
Hickory, Characteristics, range and adap¬ 
tability of Shagbark, 105 
Principal insects which attack: Walnut 
caterpillar, 209; Gipsy moth, 209; 
Hickory bark beetle, 209; twig gir- 
dler, 210; gall aphis, 210 
Highway planting, 115 
On Lincoln, Illinois, 118 
Hilgard Chestnut, The, 125 
Historic trees, Famous, 122 
Honey Locust, 67 

Principal insects which attack: white- 
marked Tussock moth, 210; Twig- 
girdler, 210 

Hooker Oak, Sir Joseph, 123 
Horse-bites, Injury from, 134 
Horse chestnut, 30, 64 

Principal insects which attack: White- 
marked Tussock moth, 210; Leopard 
moth, 210; Oyster-shell scale, 210 
Horse chestnut and Buckeye, Differenti¬ 
ating characters between, 30 
How fungus lives and grows, 173 
How to choose nursery stock, 77 
How to detect gas leaks, 167 
How to fill cavities, 162 
How to identify shade trees, 27 
How to prune, 146 
Huntington Elm, 51 

Identify Shade Trees, How to, 27 
Illuminating gas menaces shade trees, 
166 

Importance of central control in shade 
tree work, 226 

Influence of street in shade tree valuation, 
232 

Informal type of street planting, 73 
Injury to street trees, Sources of, 149 
From industrial wastes, 170 
From freezing, 154 
From overhead wires, 150 
Insect attacks, Anticipating, 225 
Insect pests, Municipal treatment of, 185 
Insecticides, Contact, 187 
Insects and Mites, Gall, 215 
Insects and their control, 183 
Insects, boring, 197 
Leaf-chewing, 198 
Sap-sucking, 197 
Various types, 186 

Inspection of trees, Necessity of regular, 
184 

Intrinsic value of shade trees, 25 


Investment, Shaae trees an, 24 
Tree planting an, 239 
Irrigating shade trees, Methods of, 132 
Irrigation and drainage of street trees, 84 

Japanese Walnut for roadside planting, 105 
Judicial computation of damage to shade 
trees, 234 

Kentucky, Naturalization Tree in, 121 
Kermes, Pubescent oak, 217 
Knot, Black, 176 

Kerosene emulsion spray, Uses of, 189 
Formula for, 190 

Labelling shade trees, 127 
Necessity of, 130 

Labels, Methods of attaching tree, 124 
Types of, 128 
Lace Bug, Sycamore, 221 
Lafayette Trees, 123 

Landscape value of trees in supplement¬ 
ing memorials, 108 
Large Elm sawfly, 205, 218 
Laurel Oak, 48 

Law, Shade trees and the, 240 
Lawns, Shade trees planted on, 233 
Laws penalizing tree damage, State, 233 
Laws protect groves and orchards in 
California, 97 
Lead, Arsenate of, 188 
Leaf blight, Effect of, 180 
How to prevent, 180 
When to spray for, 180 
Leaf chewing insects, Work of, 187 
How to control, 198 
Leaf curl, How to control, 181 
Leaf Scorch, How to control, 182 
Leaks, Gas, 166 

Legal regulation of tree operators, 157 
Legal value of shade trees, 231 
Legislation, Shade tree, 240 
Leopard Moth, 206, 212, 216 
Liberty Oak, 124 
Limbs, Bolting, 159 
Lime, Arsenate of, 188 
Lime-Sulphur Sprays, Uses of, 189 
Lincoln Hackberry, The, 123 
Lincoln Highway Association planting, 
117 

Lincoln Trees, 123 

Linden, American (or Basswood), 40, 52 
Borer, 210 
European, 40, 53 
Live Oak, 47 

Local conditions affect local tree legisla¬ 
tion, How, 245 

Local cooperation in shade tree work, 245 
Locating roadside trees properly, 94 



INDEX 


253 


Location as a factor in shade tree valua¬ 
tion, 232 

Location of street trees, 68 
Locust, Black, 65 
Honey, 67 

Lombardy Poplar, 36,62 
London Plane, 34, 54 

Magnolia, 58 

Principal insect which attacks: mag¬ 
nolia soft scale, 211 
Maidenhair Tree, or Ginkgo, 38 
Map showing tree planting areas, 87 
Maple and Oak twig pruner, 213, 216 
Maple, Ash-leaved (or Box Elder), 62 
Maple Aphis, Norway, 215 
Maple, Big Leaf, 61 
Norway, 58 

Principal insects which attack: forest 
tent caterpillar, 211; bagworm, 211; 
brown-tail moth, 211; white-marked 
Tussock moth, 211; green-striped 
maple worm, 211; sugar maple borer, 
212; Leopard moth, 212; carpenter 
worm, 212; maple and oak twig prun¬ 
er, 213; Oyster-shell scale, 213; cot¬ 
tony maple scale, 213; Gloomy scale 
214; Terrapin scale, 214; woolly 
maple and alder aphis, 215; Norway 
maple aphis, 215; gall insects and 
mites, 215 
Red, 59 
Silver, 61 
Sugar, 60 

Maple for roadside planting, Red, 92 
Maple scale, Cottony, 213 
Maple worm, Green-striped, 211 
Maples, Identifying characters, 32 . 
Massachusetts, Shade tree commissions 
in, 229 

Law protects trees in, 233 
Shade tree laws in, 240 
Tree wardens in, 242 
Memorial Trees, 108 

At Fort Omaha, Colorado, 112 
Nationally known people plant, 114. 
On drill field of University of Illinois, 
112 

Park at Fort Wayne, Indiana, III 
Tree Association, 117 
Tree planting, 108 

Planted by Christian Endeavor Soci¬ 
eties, 112 

On Lincoln Memorial grounds, 114 
President Harding plants, no 
Tennessee and New Jersey plant, in 
Memory Mile, The, 117 
Method, The Roth, 235 
Mildew, Powdery, 181 


Miscible oil sprays, Use of, 190 
Mites, Gall insects and, 215 
Moth, Brown-tail, 201 
Moth, Gipsy, 198,199 
Mottled Willow and Poplar borer, 219 
Motor truck sprayers, 194 
Mountain Ash, 64 

Municipal nurseries to provide for 
replacement, 43 

Municipal shade tree authorities, Powers 
of,. 243 

Municipal control of shade trees, 223 
Treatment of insect pests, 185 
Valuation of shade trees, 233 

National and Dixie Highways, Planting 
the, 110 

Nationally known people plant memorial 
trees, 114 

Naturalistic planting, 68 
Necessity of prompt repair of trees, 135 
Nectria cinnabarina canker, Symptoms 
and treatment of, 176 
Newark, N. J., protects individual trees, 

233 . 

Annual shade tree appraisal, 237 
New England, Elms of, 25 
New Jersey, Shade tree commissions in, 
229 

Shade tree law, 240 

Nicotine sulphate spray, How to use, 191 
Normal type of street planting, 74 
Northeast, Trees suitable for roads of, 92 
Northwest, Trees suitable for roads of, 92 
Norway maple, 32, 58 
Norway Maple aphis, 215 
Nourishment by root absorption, 133 
Nozzles, Various types of, 194 
Nursery stock, Choosing, 77 
Fumigation of, 186 

Nut and fruit groves near highways, 96 
Nut-raising industry, Importance of, 101 
Nut trees. Financial returns from, 101 
Pay taxes, 99 
Plant, for utility, 96 

Oak, Bur, 28, 49 
California Live, 49 
Chestnut, 28 

Identifying characters of bark, 28 

Laurel, 28, 48 

Leaves, 28 

Live, 28, 47 

Overcup, 28 

Pin, 28,46 

Post, 28 

Principal insects which attack: Gipsy 
moth, 216; brown-tail moth, 216; bag- 
worm, 2i6;forest tent caterpillar, 216; 



254 


INDEX 


Principal insects attack: White-marked 
Tussock moth, 216; fall cankerworm, 
216; carpenter worm, 216; maple and 
oak twig pruner, 216; Leopard moth, 
216; Two-lined oak and chestnut 
borer, 216; gray aphis, 217; pubes¬ 
cent oak kermes, 217; obscure scale, 
217; oak galls, 217; 

Red, 28, 45 
Scarlet, 28, 47 
Spanish, 28 
Swamp White, 28 
Valley, 49 
Water, 28 
White, 28,47 
Willow, 28, 48 
Oak Galls, 217 
Oak group, black, 28 
Oak kermes, Pubescent, 217 
Oak twig pruner, Maple and, 213 
Oaks, Identifying characters of fruits and 
leaves, 28 

For roadside planting, 92 
Obscure scale, 217 
Officials, Local tree, 184 
Oil sprays, Miscible, 190 
Ordinances, Shade tree, 242 
Oriental Plane, 34, 55 
Ottawa Tree CJub, 117 
Overhead wires, 150 

Oyster-shell scale, 207, 210, 211 213, 220 

Palmetto, 58 
Parasites, 172 

Parker plan of shade tree valuation, 237 
Pecan, 64 

Production figures, 102 
For roadside planting, 101 
Range of growth, 101 
To replace citrus fruits, 100 
Pecan trees pay rent, 99 
Pepper tree, 67 
Penalties for tree damage, 233 
Pennsylvania shade tree law, 241 
Philadelphia’s Memorial Trees, ill 
Pin Oak, 46 
Plane, London, 54 
Plane, Oriental, 55 
Plane tree, 34 
Plant-bug, Box Elder, 200 
Planting areas, Map showing, 87 
Planting by two-row type, 68 
Broad streets, 74 
Country roads, 73 
Highway, 115 
Memorial Tree, 108 
Russo-American Oak, 121 
Home grounds, 23 
Narrow streets, 74 


Planting Preparations for, 76 
Shade trees, 41 
Weather, 82 

Points: choice of variety, 41; adapta¬ 
bility to location, 41; hardiness, 41; 
rapidity of growth, 41; proper culti¬ 
vation, 42; shade-giving qualities, 42; 
physical form, 42; replacement, 43; 
clean habits, 43; beauty, 43 
Planting table. Tree, 88 
Poisoned contact sprays, 191 
Poisons, Stomach, 188 
Formula for, 188 
Pole pruner, 148 

Poplar Borer, Mottled Willow and, 219 
Poplar, Carolina, 38, 61 
Leaf-stem gall aphis, 220 
Lombardy, 36, 62 

Principal insects which attack: 
cottonwood, poplar and willow-leaf 
beetle 218; bagworm, 218; spiny elm 
caterpillar, 218; large elm sawfly, 212; 
brown-tail moth, 218; forest tent cater¬ 
pillar, 218; White-marked Tussock 
moth, 218; fall webworm, 218; cotton¬ 
wood dagger moth, 218; San Jos6 scale, 
219; aspen borer, 219; bronze birch 
borer, 219; mottled willow and poplar 
borer, 219; cottonwood borer, 220; 
carpenter worm, 220; twig girdler, 220; 
Oyster-shell scale, 220; poplar leaf- 
stem gall aphis, 220 

Poplars, Distinctive characteristics, 36 
Posilippo, 18 

Potted type of street planting, 73 
Powder, Arsenate of lead, 188 
Powdery mildew, How to control, 181 
Power sprayers, 193 
Practical uses of tree labels, 127 
Preparations for planting, 76 
Preventing abuse of city street trees, 
!34 

Prevention of fungous growths, 174 
Profit in shade tree planting, 232 
Protecting street trees from injury, 134 
Protection, Local regulations for shade 
tree, 245 

From freezing, 154 
Protective Coatings, 145 
Protects trees, Massachusetts law, 233 
Prune, When to, 140, 147 
Pruner, Maple and oak twig, 213 
Pruner, Pole, 148 

Pruning and trimming, Distinction be¬ 
tween, 138 

Pruning, Annual, 140 
Early, 141 
Chisel, 148 
Laws, 148 



INDEX 


Pruning, Necessity of, 139 
Reasons for, 138 
Results of, 139 
Root and branch, 138 
Time for, 139 
Tools, 141 
Top, 139 

Pruning tools required, Number of, 147 
Pruning wounds, Protection of, 144 
Pubescent oak kermes, 217 

Red maple, 32,59 
Red Oak, 45 

Redwood, Gen. Sherman, 120 
Reinforcement in large cavities, 164 
Remembrance, The Roads of, 115 
Rent, Pecan harvest pays, 99 
Repair of shade trees, 156 
Replacement of shade trees, 43 
Replacement value of shade trees, 234 
Resistance to gas, 170 
Roadbuilding by states, 115 
Roads of Remembrance endorsed by 
White House, 115, 116 
Roadside planting by clubs and schools, 
116 

Japanese walnut for, 105 
Trees adapted for general, 92 
Roadside Trees, Desirable, 92 
Roadsides, Nut and fruit trees on Euro¬ 
pean, 97 

Root absorption, 133 
Root-prune before planting, 81 
Root-rot, 175 

Roots injured by sewers and pipes, 150 
Roth, Filibert, 231 
Roth Method, The, 235 
Russo-American Oak in White House 
grounds, 121 

Rust, Appearance of, 181 
Fruiting bodies of, 182 

San Jose scale, 197, 202, 211, 219 
Saprophyte, 172 
Sap-sucking insects, 197, 199 
Work and control of, 187 
Saving gas injured trees, 168 
Sawfly, Large Elm, 205 
Scale, Cottony Maple, 213 
European Elm, 207 
Gloomy, 214 
Obscure, 217 

Oyster-shell, 201, 210, 211, 213, 220 
San Jose, 197, 202,211,219 
Terrapin, 214 
Tulip tree soft, 222 
Scarlet Oak, 47 

Selection of trees for planting, 41 
Sewer and pipe injury to roots, 150 


255 

Shade tree commission, How to organize, 
226, 227 

Financing of, 227 
Duties of, 241 

Shade tree injury from atmospheric influ¬ 
ences, 169 

Shade tree legislation, 240 
Shade tree planting, 76 
Shade tree splendor of California roads, 91 
Shade tree valuation, factors in, 232 
The Roth method, 23 5 
Shade trees and the law, 240 
Shade trees, Enemies of, 149 
Legal value of, 231 
Methods of determining value, 232 
The Roth method, 235 
Circumference measurement method, 
235 

Diameter measurement method, 235 
Square-foot basal area method, 23 5 
Square-inch basal area method, 236 
Municipal control of, 223 
Pruning and trimming, 138 
The placing of, 68 
Utility of, 19 

Selected List covering adaptability, 
soil requirements and general 
characteristics with reference to 
street planting: 

Ailanthus, or Tree of Heaven, 66 

American or White Elm, 50 

Ash-leaved Maple (Box Elder) 62 

Basswood, or American Linden, 52 

Beech, 64 

Big-leaf Maple, 61 

Black Locust, 65 

Bur Oak, 49 

California Live Oak, 49 

California Sycamore, 55 

Camphor Tree, 58 

Carolina Poplar, 63 

English Elm, 51 

European Linden, 53 

Ginkgo, 51 

Green Ash, 57 

Hackberry, 66 

Honey Locust, 67 

Horse Chestnut, 64 

Huntington Elm, 51 

Laurel Oak, 48 

Live Oak, 47 

Lombardy Poplar, 62 

London Plane, 54 

Magnolia, 58 

Mountain Ash, 64 

Norway Maple, 58 

Oriental Plane, 55 

Palmetto, 58 

Pecan, 64 




256 INDEX 


Selected List ( Continued). Pepper Tree, 67 
Pin Oak, 46 
Red Maple, 59 
Red Oak, 45 
Scarlet Oak, 47 
Silver Maple, 61 
Sugar Maple, 60 
Sweet Gum, 56 
Sycamore, 53 
The Conifers, 65 
Tulip Tree, 55 
Valley Oak, 49 
White Oak, 47 
White Ash, 57 
Willow Oak, 48 

Shade tree’s struggle for existence, 183 
Shagbark Hickory, 105 
Shakespeare Memorial Oak, 125 
Shears, Pruning, 147 
Shellac for protecting wounds, 144 
For waterproofing surfaces, 144 
Shelter, Trees for, 93 
Sherman Sequoia, General, 120 
Sherrill labels capital’s trees, Col., 129 
Shoestrings are symptoms of root-rot, 175 
Shrubs for roadsides, 93 
Sidewalk planting, 69 
Silver Maple, 61 

Slime-flux, Description and treatment of, 

x 75 

Smoke injures trees, 169 
Soap spray, Fish-oil, 191 
So-called “Tree Surgeons,” 156 
Sodium arsenite, 191 
Soft-coal smoke injures trees, 169 
Soil cultivation at base of trees, 133 
For newly planted tree, 81 
How to enrich, 133, 196 
Requirements for proper tree growth, 
J 33 

Shade trees planted in cultivated, 233 
Treatment of gas-filled, 168 
Requirements of Beech, 106 
Sources of injury to street trees, 149 
Southern roads, Trees suitable for, 92 
Spacing distances in planting, 74 
Spacing of roadside trees, 93 
Spiny elm caterpillar, 202, 218 
Spot, Leaf, 180 
Sprayers, Power, 193 
Spraying accessories, 194 
Spraying apparatus, Community owner¬ 
ship of, 185 
Various kinds of, 192 
Spraying mature street trees, 193 
To control foliage fungus, 177 
Spray pumps, Uses of various types, 193 
Sprays, Contact, 188 
Lime sulphur, 189 


Sprays, Kerosene emulsion, 189 
Creosote oil, 190 
Miscible oils, 190 
Nicotine sulphate, 191 
Fish-oil soap, 191 
Poisoned contact, 191 
Carbon disulphid, 191 
Sodium arsenite, 191 
Square-foot basal measurement method, 
235 

Square-inch basal area method, 236 
Stag-head or top-dry, How to treat, 182 
State entomologists, 184 
State laws penalizing tree damage, 233 
Sterilization of cavities, 162 
Sterilizing wounds, 145 
Stomach poisons, Formula for, 188 
Street in shade tree valuation, Effect of, 
232 

Street tree location, 68 
Street tree planting, Two row type, 68 
Center and side planting, 71 
The center strip, 72 
The potted type, 73 
The informal type, 73 
Center and side planting, 71 
Street trees, Abuses, 134 
Proper location of, 68 
Spraying mature, 193 
Underground irrigation of, 132 
Streets, Trees for wide and narrow, 42 
Sucking insects, Sap, 197 
Sugar maple, 32, 60 
Borer, 212 

Suits, Verdicts in tree damage, 234 
Sulphate, Nicotine, 191 
Sulphur bleaching dangerous to trees, 170 
Sulphur spray, Lime, 189 
Sun-scald, 155 
Surgical work on trees, 157 
Sweet Gum, 56 
Sycamore, 53 
California, 55 
For roadside planting, 92 
Identifying characters, 34 
Lace bug, 221 

Principal insects which attack: bag- 
worm, 221; White-marked Tussock 
moth, 221; lace-bug, 221 
Various names, 34 
Maple, 34 

Table, Tree planting, 88 
Taxes, Nut trees pay, 99 
Temperature, How trees affect, 21 
Tent caterpillar, Forest, 203 
Terrapin scale, 214 
Title of shade tree executive, 229 
Toadstools, 173 



INDEX 


257 


Tools, Pruning, 147,148 
Top-dry or stag-head, How to treat, 182 
Top pruning, 139 
Torn bark, Treatment of, 152 
Traffic injuries to trees, 149 
Transplant, How to, 80 
Transplanting, Digging for, 79 
Transplanting trees, 76 
Treatment of cavities, 161 
Splitting crotches, 158 
Treatment of tree diseases, 172 
Treaty Oak, 122 
Tree a symbol, The, 108 
Tree bands, Various types of, 195 
Tree damage, Penalties for, 233 
Tree diseases and their treatment, 172 
Tree guards, 134 
How to use, 135 
Painting, 137 
Types of, 135 
Value of, 239 

Tree injury by industrial wastes, 170 
Tree insects and their control, 183 
Tree labels, Cost of, 127 
Tree legislation, Shade, 240 
Tree planting an investment, 239 
Tree planting area map, 87 
Tree planting, How to plan, 82 
Tree planting table, 88 
Tree roots injured by sewers and pipes, 150 
Tree surgeons, 156 
Tree wardens, 230, 241, 242 
Trees and the home, 23 
Trees and the law, Shade, 240 
Trees as good citizens, 17 
As health factors, 21 
As monuments, 108 
For country roads, 91 
Crown the home, 23 
For roadside planting, Desirable, 92 
How to water, 131 

Least susceptible to injury from gas, 170 
Legal value of shade, 231 
Most susceptible to gas, 170 
To leaf blight, 180 
Municipal control of shade, 223 
Pruning and trimming, 138 
Suitable for Southern roads, 92 
Susceptible to heart-rot, 174 
Susceptible to slime-flux, 175 
Trenching to drive out gas, 169 
Trimming and pruning, Distinction 
between, 138 

Trunks, limbs and roots, Diseases of, 174 
Tulip tree, 55 

Principal insects which attack: tulip 
tree aphis, 221; tulip tree soft scale, 
222 

Tussock moth, White-marked, 204 
Twig girdler, 206, 210, 220 

17 


Twig pruner, Maple and Oak, 213 
Two-lined Oak and Chestnut borer, 216 
Two-row type of street tree planting, 68 

Uniformity of species for street trees, 224 
Uses of tree bolts, 158 
Of tree guards, 135 

Valley Oak, 49 

Valuation, Factors in shade tree, 232 
Value of roadside planting, 90 
Value of shade trees, Establishing, 231 
Intrinsic, 25 
Legal, 231 
Replacement, 234 
Verdicts in tree damage suits, 234 
Varieties of trees for country roads, 91 
Victory Road, Kentucky plants, 120 
Virgil, Setting of the tomb of, 18 

Walnut a rapid grower, 103 
Walnut caterpillar, 209, 222 
Walnut, Characteristics of black, 103 
Japanese, 105 
Pays good dividends, 100 
Principal insect which attacks: walnut 
caterpillar, 222 

Range and adaptability of black, 104 
Walnuts on Michigan’s state highways, 
104 

Warden, Tree, 230, 241 

Duties of Massachusetts, 242 
Warning against so-called tree surgeons, 

156 

Washington Horse Chestnut, The, 122 

Washington labels trees, 128 

Washington’s Memorial Trees, no 

Watering trees, 131 

Weather, Best planting, 82 

Webworm, Fall, 203,218 

Wesley Oak, The, 124 

When to plant, 85 

When to prune, 140, 147 

White ash, 57 

White-marked Tussock Moth, 204, 211, 
216, 218 
White Oak, 47 
Willow Oak, 48 

Willow-leaf beetle, Cottonwood, Poplar 
and,2 18 

Wires, Injury to trees from overhead, 150 
Wisconsin, Bennett planting in, 119 
“Witches Broom,” Appearance of, 176 
Woolly elm-bark aphis, 207 _ 

Woolly maple and alder aphis, 215 

Worm, Carpenter, 212 

Worthley nozzle, How to use the, 194 

York, Pennsylvania, Road of Remem¬ 
brance, 117 




SCHOOL BOOK OF 
FORESTRY 

BY CHARLES LATHROP PACK 

President, American Tree Association 

What Every Man, Woman and Child Should 
Know About Our Forests 

A direct, concise history of the original forests, 
their use, their depletion, damage by fire, insects 
and disease; the remaining forests, their protec¬ 
tion; the need of new forests and methods of 
securing and maintaining them. 

A book invaluable to teachers, students and 
citizens interested in forests and forestry. 

159 Pages 

Sixteen Full Page Illustrations 
Price $ 1.00 

Order from 

AMERICAN TREE ASSOCIATION 

1214 Sixteenth Street 
WASHINGTON, D. C. 











































